Trox

Thanks Sandy, I just found an Oslo based company that had the BEHA belts on their website; it remains to see if they will sell me a one. It is an industrial service company, and it has no web shop. The hollow one I got from my Swedish friend Knut (Oldtimer). Where do you buy your belts Sandy? Trox

Hi Knut, I have tried that, you told me the first time, remember. When I stitch thick heavy leather, the hand wheel turns 180 degrees before the needle punch true. For a patcher it is fine, but it is too flexible for my Adler class 5. My speed reducer mounting demands a very long belt. I have changed it back to a V belt. The pulley is made for a round belt and the V belt twists, but it works. The V belt will wear out faster (because of the twisting), it also need more tension to stay on the pulley and will wear on machine bearings. The hollow poly belt has no slippage like a leather belt and is very good on a lighter job. However, I need a solid core one for my class 5. I just found a company in Oslo that had those German BEHA belt on their web site. It remains to see if they will sell me one. Did the company you bought from have the solid core ones? Trox

Hi all My 29 k 72 came new with a modern pedestal and a singer ½ hp clutch motor. But I always hand crank it. I have tried those hollow polyethylene belts with a quick connector; they grip well but are too flexible. I would like to try the solid ones. Sandy, did you weld the belt your self? Is it an easy way to do this without buying some expensive tools? Here is a German website with endless belts; http://www.behabelt.com/en/belts/round-belts.html Thanks, Trox

Protos 3 needle chainstitch sewingmachine

Hi Sandy, Congratulations with the new machine. About the belt groove; it must be flat in the bottom for a V belt, this one looks like it is. It is not easy to see on the pic. The original grooves are V shaped, without a flat bottom. A V belt will twist it self upside down in it. I have that problem on my machine, but I have used the V belt for a long time and it is still fine. I need to have much tension on it to keep it in the groove, and I am afraid the machine bearings will wear out. That is why I want to make a new groove live yours. Adler never stops to amaze me, when I think I know every model they produced. An other one always turns up. This sub class 5-37 is not in the list of subclasses in my class 5 partlist or in the Dürkopp Adler export list of sewing machine classes. I have never been able to find a complete inventory of all the machines they made. Even of the modern 205 and 204 machines, it keeps popping up new sub classes all the time, subclasses who are never mention any place. I think a lot was lost in the WW2, but after war, it is the same story to. If anybody have any information about this please share it with us. Thanks Trox That class 20-2 is a bottom feed with low lift, sewing only up to 16 mm thick according to my information. I guess it could be modified the same way that Sewmun explained about the Singer 7 class, it still would not be a good leather machine. Sandy is you a chef or do you produce food for sale? Or do you just have to many kids feed? Trox

I still exist, This was some 20 years a go. I Can still drive 1000 km in my old volvo 245 for a sewing machine/ leather machine with out sleep, no problemo.I think it because of where I was born we had to drive 300 km to the next town. In Benelux there it is no spaces between citys. This weekend fishing trip is about 600 km drive, It is normal for. I also have fishing for a hobby, mostly fly fishing for trout. But also sea fishing from boat. What is a planetary mixer? and meat mincers? I do not know. Trox .

Hi Sandy, The height is adjustable, set it to the same level as the needle plate or a little under. It still helps, but it will not make those ugly markings. On those 411 Clones, you get special needle plates that cover the feed dog. I am an old truck driver but 2000 km is far, especially when you have a similar machine at home. I drove steady route on Holland for two years, Oslo- Holland once a week. My forwarder in Holland was a company called Rutex in Alpen an D`Rein (many years ago). I have been everywhere in your Holland and a like it very much. By the way, I’m sure we have bigger houses and space in Norway, but my house is full of machines to. Trox

Hi Sandy, Yes it is the forerunner to the 105-25, Is has some improvements, but it is very similar. The 105 has a bigger bobbin, the take-up lever is on the front, but most important you can still get parts for it. Nevertheless, they perform the same, the steel quality might be better on the old one. I have a never Adler 204- 64 needle feed, (same as the 205 but flatbed). The old class 5 is a much better sewing machine than the newer 204. Better built, better quality on parts, it performs much better to. Many people who have the 204 or 205-64 needle feed brag about how good they are on leather. I do not think so, they do not like to sew uphill or down hill (increase or decrease thickness); it is no good for that. However, that is no problem for the 5-27; it jumps right up or down. The stitch looks uniform and good to. The only problem is the markings the feed dog makes on the backside of the work. To avoid that you must buy a triple feed machine and drop the feed dog down (or with a special needle plate like the Chinese “441” leather machines have) 500 Euro for the 105 machine is a very good price, they sold a 105-64 private here for 2850 Euro last year. I know of one to, a 105-25 for sale in north Sweden for 390 Euro. But it is a 2000 km drive from me. And I am not buying an other leather machine if it is not an upgrade, it must be a 205-370 or a 411 clone. The Chinese machines affect the prices; you get much for the money there. Trox

Hi Sandy, It is no trouble for sure; we are all here to help each other. You have been lucky so far, but you cannot expect to get every machine free Sandy. This is a cylinder arm machine, much more popular and harder to find. 350 Euro is not expensive; I have seen them priced four times as much. Remember it is not only leather workers who want them, many Horse people want those machine too repair their tack. I see the hand wheel is modified and turned on the machine; I had planned to do the same on my machine. I would love to get a close up photo of the groove in the hand wheel. Trox

Hi Bruce, I just sent you an email on your web site. I can not afford to buy a plouge gauge at this momment, but I was looking at some of your other items as well. I left the details in the email Thanks. Trox

Thanks Bruce for that lesson! The plough gauges are expensive in Europe to. I have wanted one for a long time. I have been looking at the Blanchard 10 and 15 cm plough gauge that is available in Norway. However, it is priced from 650 to 750 US $ here, and I have never seen a used one for sale here. Do you ship to Norway? Thanks Trox

The above thread sizes is metric. Trox

HI Sandy, Why do you not ask me about this? I have the same machine.. It is a 5- 27 not a 5 -37. I am 99 % sure Adler did not make that sub class. It is like Bob said bottom feed with a jump foot. It is made for leather work and this feed system work much better on leather than a roller foot (I have both systems) mine sews 14 mm thick leather, but I have modified the machine with a V belt, strong motor and speed reducer. Up to 12 mm stitch length, from size tkt 20 to 6 polyester thread. This is a very good machine, but parts are hard to find. It uses the same shuttle as your class 4, and you can get new Japanese shuttles for them to. Other parts will (normally) not break. Look at page 13 in the manual, about the " Mitghende Nähfuß " Send me a PM or a email for more questions. Trox .

Hi, I use the wooden strap cutter myself it is easier in the beginning because it eliminates the use of your thumb to press down the strap. But both cutters work the same way, and in time, you will learn how to cut strait. Remember to only use your free arm to pull the strap true, never pull with the cutter. On wide strap of heavy leather press your tool tight against the leather and pull the strap true. On the wooden cutter, it is possible to change the angle of the blade a few degrees by placing a thin piece of cardboard between the blade holder and the frame. The blade then act like a rudder of a boat compressing the leather against the tool. On thin straps and soft leather, we use the opposite angle. It must be possible to do the same in the blade holder of the metal one, 2 degree inside angle on heavy wide strap and opposite on narrow strap. But the must important is to pull the strap true and keep the cutter steady. Trox

Hi Gary, Are you sure about the model number? Trox

Hi Sandy, What Les No6 is saying is great information; you have to search for more machines in Holland Sandy. Find those beauties and bring them back to life. Sell or give them away to leatherworkers who will restore and use them. It is like an old car, if you put them in a museum they will die, if you use them a little bit every day they will work forever. Sandy I tried to send you the Adler 5 manual in smaller portions today, I think it worked. Trox

And pretty it is! Great buy Sandy! I know absolutely nothing about this machine, but it is members here who do. Search the forum for details and weld a stand for it. Look in the forum on Oldtimers (Knut from Sweden) stand for his Adler 205. The best thing would be an original treadle stand, but where to get one, I do not know. Maybe Sewmun or Campbell Randall can help you. You have seen this. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33348&st=0&p=207083&hl=pearson&fromsearch=1entry207083 Trox

Hi Vincent, You can buy servo motors and speed reducers from our member dealers. Or from Sieck.de in Germany. Maybe Sewmun have a 220 volts servo motor for sale. You can order from Cobra Steve 220 v, I did. http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?category=22. What is the price of that Global machine?, if the price is good buy it! (But try it first) The Adler and Pfaff are good machines but they are 40 year older than the Global.. I have Adlers machines myself and love them. But you are looking for the best machine for the money, are you not? Here is a easy way to stitch those stering wheels . http://www.youtube.com/user/Cechaflo#p/u/16/c1q84ew-Blc. Trox

Hi Vincent, The three last ones has walking foot, the Adler have not. I would look at the Global machine; it is a modern new machine with a long stitch length (10 mm) and a big bobbin. Global makes good machines; they make machines for Dürkopp Adler to. And like Sandy says; slow it down with a speed reducer or buy a Chinese servomotor. http://www.imca.net/Sites/Imca/files/wf950.pdf Trox

Hi Sandy! Hurrry up and buy that Pearson, I have never seen a machine like that for sale in Europe. And 100 Euro is nothing. This is like Bob says a real saddler machine, flatbed class 4 or 45k is easy to find. The saddlers in the US who has a Pearson like that still use them and will never part with them. I am sure there are members here who can learn you about it. What more did he have for sale? I got your Pm and I will send you the manual. That web site is not updated on many years, it is only old stuff there. I have no time to work with it. Trox

That is normal on an old machine, not bad at all. You will find much “stuff” on your machine searching the forum here for Singer 29K and Adler class 30. I have 3 of this type of machine my self (two in working order, one long and one short arm) I can not do with out them. Manuals and part list on http://parts.singerco.com/. Good luck! Trox

Hello Sandy, The Ardennes is great; we use to go paddling kayaks in the river up in Malmedy. 60 - 70 neighbors from our Buren in Antwerp, we rented a buses and I was always the driver. Great fun. Almost every weekend we did something together with our neighbors. I really miss my time there. We have great nature in Norway to, but we newer go in a flock. We want to be alone in the wilderness and get pissed if we meet some body. I am going up north to fish to night, the summer arrived at last. Back to our tread; Yes this is proof enough; the shuttle is an open frame Adler. I believe KAW is short for Kochs Adler Werke. The name of the company was Kochs Adler Nähmaschinewerke AG Bielefeld from 1913 to 1971. In 1971 the company was reformed to Kochs Adler AG And in 1990 to Dürkopp Adler AG (source http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/company/chronic.html ) Adler was just a Name for the machines. This places your machine to be from the years between 1971 to 1913, I can not find any information about when they change the decals on their machines. But on my oldest Adler machine it has an Eagle with “Kochs Adler Nähmaschinewerke AG Bielefeld “ around. The newer machines only have “Adler” printed on them. Here is some info on the machine classes (for export machines, the list is not complete): http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/download-text-attachments/hist_kl.pdf. The sewing machine production was started up again after WW2 in 1945, I believe it is likely they changed their logo then. Yours is maybe a pre war machine. Anybody who have more information about this please let us know. I do not know much about Necchi machines and I never seen models like the Adler 4 or 5, but I know they make models like the class 30 and Singer 29K shoe repair machines. If you want the manual send me your email in a PM. Greetings Trox

Hi Singermania, That was some piece of Iron; it cannot be many of those around. It is a Special Version. How long it is. Does it sew, as it should? What about a newer (but still old) Singer 144W-305, do you still find use for them Down Under. I have a blue one that needs a life. It is no marked for them in Scandinavia. I am thinking about refurbishing it, fitting a modern motor on and exporting it to somewhere needed. It is a very good US made machine and it deserves a life. A new rotary hook and a clean, it is good as new. About the original tread; The Chinese and Japanese are very different people. The Japanese always take pride in producing the best quality. But the Chinese just care about making money; they never spend any and eating rice with fish sauce 7 days a week. A Chinese will never buy anything from a restaurant unless he can see they use fresh foods. That is why every restaurant in China has food on display. The Chinese have started to buy their own product, so I feel it is safe to. This is the best indicator of good quality. Then again export machines, I will only buy from the dealers I know stand behind their machines. I will never risk buy something out of the box on EBay to save a few dollars. I do not think any Chinese would either. Trox