Trox

The shuttels are the same and is the Industry standard. You can buy a Japan made Hirose shuttle for a third less than the original Adler https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/partlist.aspx?CategoryID=1997 http://shifasewingparts.com/Products/hirose-shuttle.html and a Chinese one would be much cheaper. (And maybe the original Adler one is made in china, who knows) If you look at the websites, you will see that the Juki TSC 441 uses the same as The 205. Cowboy sell shuttles too, ask Toledo Bob or a other Cowboy dealer. I would also like to buy one of those Cowboy shuttles, If you find out who will import them let me know http://www.cowboysew.com/product9.htm Trox

But it is the same type of hand wheel on both your class 4 and 5? The 5 wheel has been modified in all the grooves. If this is the case, I only have to look for someone with a big lathe that will do the job. Thanks Trox

Ha ha, sorry Wiz for bad jokes. Thanks Sandy, could you please post a pic of those ATD pulleys? Or send me a PM. What diameter is those, is it something I could use on my class 5, would they fit? Thanks Trox

Hi sandy, I did the Efka variostop with a phone support from my brother who is an electro engineer. When I looked closer on the system, I saw the control box is a single phase 220 V (connected to only two L connectors and earth). Only the motor is three phase 380 V. (The clutch/ brake is electronic single phase too, connected to the control box). When you open the cable connector box on the back of the motor, you will se the cable for the control box. Disconnect it from it previous place and stretch a cable direct to 220 V wall outlets (the box uses normal power). I used the pre made hole for a sewing lamp. (Motor connected sewing lamps are a hazard and not legal here) Then connect the frequency converter the normal way on the lines; L1 L2 and L3. If it not starts or goes the wrong way, changes the order of the L connectors. Set the motor parameters in the frec. Converter and off you go. The variostop controller is a step controller, when it is on the full 50 hertz; it has about 10 or 12 different speed steps (on the foot control). When you slow it down to about 10 hertz, it has two, maybe three steps of speed left. It is also possible to connect a pot meter on those frequency converters for easy step less speed adjustment. I do not use any pot meter on my converters, I just set the top speed before I start sewing, and uses the foot control in the normal manner. I got one on the variostop (on my Adler 204) and share it with my skiving machine. I got an other one on my Adler 5, who has a 3 phase ¾ Hp Singer clutch motor and a speed reducer. With that setup, I am able to sew one stitch a day if I want to. It works very well. As I said before, the variostop loses its needle position accuracy on very slow speeds (speeds under 20 hertz). I also use a speed reducer on that setup. When you slows it down, the controller tries to compensate to make it the speed right, it maybe counts the rotations. There is a ghost in the machine somewhere, but it works. It is no overheating or danger, I been using it this way for more than two years. It has a very limited space for a speed reducer Thank for the Italian Inquiry Trox The box pic is upside down :brainbleach:

Tanks guys, I have a hard time finding stuff like this in Norway, we do not produce anything but fish and oil over here. I will try the Oslo Company first, if no luck I will try Knut’s place. Knut, I heard you had a visitor from Norway. She told me good things about your workshop. Looking good and practical, she said. But she did not buy your machine? Trox

Hi Sandy, I too have been searching for the same thing. I have heard rumors about a new Italian inexpensive DC position drive. I have been searching the web for it with no luck. The Italians make very fine leather machines, and is world leaders on leather factory and tannery machines. However, it is not the same story about their use of internet; most of their websites are in Italian. And my Italian is a No Go. I bought a 220 V - 600 W brushless digital servomotor from Cobra Steve, 145 $. With shipping too Norway it was less than 200 $ totally. It is very light (about 5 Kg) and strong. It has a adjustable top speed from 100 to 4000 rpm. The slowest speed setting is from zero to 100 rpm. But they are very direct on the sewing pedal, is difficult to sew slower than 100 rpm. All the Chinese servomotors are direct like that, but few are as slow and strong as this. Most will not sew slower than 200 rpm. I have heard good things about the gear reduction motor from Toledo Bob, 110 V- 500 W. But not available in 220 V. But the best buy is the EPS motor from Cobra Steve, 350$. Brushless digital servo with needle position and synchronizer. It is listed as a 110 V - 500 W, But the 220 is a special order (like my was), and then you will get the new 600 W one. All those Chinese servomotors are best used with a speed reducer; they are strong but will not sew slow enough for a big stitcher. I use mine on a upholstery machine, no need for a reducer on that. I do not think you will find a Chinese servomotor that compares to the Efka DC motors. I have a Efka DC 1600 (needle position) system on my Dürkopp Adler 267-373, this is the best motor system I ever tried. No need for a speed reducer on this on, very strong and accurate. All above motor are single phase. On my 3 phase motors, I too use frequency converters for speed, torque control and converting to single phase. I also use one on a machine with Efka 3 phase variostop needle position motor. I have to use different power supply on the Control box; it needs 220V 50 Hz all the time. The frequency converter only applies to the motor. It works well, but the accuracy of the needle position is not that good on very slow speeds. There are companies in England that sells Chinese machines, like Highlead. We may have to ask some of our English members about this. Please inform me if you find something before I do. Trox

Hi Sandy, Thanks for the pic, what is the measurement of the groove? You cannot machine too much of the hand wheel, it is not that thick. I do not want to weaken it, I want to make a small groove, but the groove for the speed reducer is for a 9 mm belt. It has to be the same as that. A other solution is to buy a new pulley http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26086&st=0&p=164598&hl=+tractor%20+supply%20+pulley&fromsearch=1entry164598 Or buy a Cowboy mega flywheel http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html and make it fit the class 5. I do not want to use a tractor pulley and damage my exiting hand wheel, But use a 205 /204 wheel or a mega wheel would be the best thing. The mega wheel have larger diameter and will add torque in addition to having the right groove. So you bought the Frobana machine to, Is It good for something else than shoes? I did not know it had the same shuttle, I know nothing about that machine. But I guess it because that Adler 5 / Sing. 45K shuttle was the industry standard in that time. Just as the big shuttle used in Adler 205 and Juki 441 is now. About the Adler class 20, who is the same as Singer class 7 was used for the biggest jobs in canvas. Tents , awnings and parachutes. Big industrial buffing wheels etc. This one has a small hub, the bigger ones have 40 mm lift. Some of the 7 class had alternating pressers like the 7-33, and was used by saddlers for harness work. Some was modified as Sewmun (Toledo Bob) told us. http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/download-text-attachments/hist_kl.pdf and http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-brochures/7class.htm By the way, I did a Google search on Toledo Bob to find his web site. Just for fun, I wrote “Toledo Bob” instead of Toledo industrial sewing machine. And I found “Toledo Bob and the rusty Zipper blues band“, maybe Wizcraft and Sewmun have started an industrial blues band, Ha Ha. I know that Wizcraft has played in a Blues band and he always refer to Bob Kowar as “Toledo Bob” Trox

Thanks Sandy, I just found an Oslo based company that had the BEHA belts on their website; it remains to see if they will sell me a one. It is an industrial service company, and it has no web shop. The hollow one I got from my Swedish friend Knut (Oldtimer). Where do you buy your belts Sandy? Trox

Hi Knut, I have tried that, you told me the first time, remember. When I stitch thick heavy leather, the hand wheel turns 180 degrees before the needle punch true. For a patcher it is fine, but it is too flexible for my Adler class 5. My speed reducer mounting demands a very long belt. I have changed it back to a V belt. The pulley is made for a round belt and the V belt twists, but it works. The V belt will wear out faster (because of the twisting), it also need more tension to stay on the pulley and will wear on machine bearings. The hollow poly belt has no slippage like a leather belt and is very good on a lighter job. However, I need a solid core one for my class 5. I just found a company in Oslo that had those German BEHA belt on their web site. It remains to see if they will sell me one. Did the company you bought from have the solid core ones? Trox

Hi all My 29 k 72 came new with a modern pedestal and a singer ½ hp clutch motor. But I always hand crank it. I have tried those hollow polyethylene belts with a quick connector; they grip well but are too flexible. I would like to try the solid ones. Sandy, did you weld the belt your self? Is it an easy way to do this without buying some expensive tools? Here is a German website with endless belts; http://www.behabelt.com/en/belts/round-belts.html Thanks, Trox

Protos 3 needle chainstitch sewingmachine

Hi Sandy, Congratulations with the new machine. About the belt groove; it must be flat in the bottom for a V belt, this one looks like it is. It is not easy to see on the pic. The original grooves are V shaped, without a flat bottom. A V belt will twist it self upside down in it. I have that problem on my machine, but I have used the V belt for a long time and it is still fine. I need to have much tension on it to keep it in the groove, and I am afraid the machine bearings will wear out. That is why I want to make a new groove live yours. Adler never stops to amaze me, when I think I know every model they produced. An other one always turns up. This sub class 5-37 is not in the list of subclasses in my class 5 partlist or in the Dürkopp Adler export list of sewing machine classes. I have never been able to find a complete inventory of all the machines they made. Even of the modern 205 and 204 machines, it keeps popping up new sub classes all the time, subclasses who are never mention any place. I think a lot was lost in the WW2, but after war, it is the same story to. If anybody have any information about this please share it with us. Thanks Trox That class 20-2 is a bottom feed with low lift, sewing only up to 16 mm thick according to my information. I guess it could be modified the same way that Sewmun explained about the Singer 7 class, it still would not be a good leather machine. Sandy is you a chef or do you produce food for sale? Or do you just have to many kids feed? Trox

I still exist, This was some 20 years a go. I Can still drive 1000 km in my old volvo 245 for a sewing machine/ leather machine with out sleep, no problemo.I think it because of where I was born we had to drive 300 km to the next town. In Benelux there it is no spaces between citys. This weekend fishing trip is about 600 km drive, It is normal for. I also have fishing for a hobby, mostly fly fishing for trout. But also sea fishing from boat. What is a planetary mixer? and meat mincers? I do not know. Trox .

Hi Sandy, The height is adjustable, set it to the same level as the needle plate or a little under. It still helps, but it will not make those ugly markings. On those 411 Clones, you get special needle plates that cover the feed dog. I am an old truck driver but 2000 km is far, especially when you have a similar machine at home. I drove steady route on Holland for two years, Oslo- Holland once a week. My forwarder in Holland was a company called Rutex in Alpen an D`Rein (many years ago). I have been everywhere in your Holland and a like it very much. By the way, I’m sure we have bigger houses and space in Norway, but my house is full of machines to. Trox

Hi Sandy, Yes it is the forerunner to the 105-25, Is has some improvements, but it is very similar. The 105 has a bigger bobbin, the take-up lever is on the front, but most important you can still get parts for it. Nevertheless, they perform the same, the steel quality might be better on the old one. I have a never Adler 204- 64 needle feed, (same as the 205 but flatbed). The old class 5 is a much better sewing machine than the newer 204. Better built, better quality on parts, it performs much better to. Many people who have the 204 or 205-64 needle feed brag about how good they are on leather. I do not think so, they do not like to sew uphill or down hill (increase or decrease thickness); it is no good for that. However, that is no problem for the 5-27; it jumps right up or down. The stitch looks uniform and good to. The only problem is the markings the feed dog makes on the backside of the work. To avoid that you must buy a triple feed machine and drop the feed dog down (or with a special needle plate like the Chinese “441” leather machines have) 500 Euro for the 105 machine is a very good price, they sold a 105-64 private here for 2850 Euro last year. I know of one to, a 105-25 for sale in north Sweden for 390 Euro. But it is a 2000 km drive from me. And I am not buying an other leather machine if it is not an upgrade, it must be a 205-370 or a 411 clone. The Chinese machines affect the prices; you get much for the money there. Trox

Hi Sandy, It is no trouble for sure; we are all here to help each other. You have been lucky so far, but you cannot expect to get every machine free Sandy. This is a cylinder arm machine, much more popular and harder to find. 350 Euro is not expensive; I have seen them priced four times as much. Remember it is not only leather workers who want them, many Horse people want those machine too repair their tack. I see the hand wheel is modified and turned on the machine; I had planned to do the same on my machine. I would love to get a close up photo of the groove in the hand wheel. Trox

Hi Bruce, I just sent you an email on your web site. I can not afford to buy a plouge gauge at this momment, but I was looking at some of your other items as well. I left the details in the email Thanks. Trox

Thanks Bruce for that lesson! The plough gauges are expensive in Europe to. I have wanted one for a long time. I have been looking at the Blanchard 10 and 15 cm plough gauge that is available in Norway. However, it is priced from 650 to 750 US $ here, and I have never seen a used one for sale here. Do you ship to Norway? Thanks Trox

The above thread sizes is metric. Trox

HI Sandy, Why do you not ask me about this? I have the same machine.. It is a 5- 27 not a 5 -37. I am 99 % sure Adler did not make that sub class. It is like Bob said bottom feed with a jump foot. It is made for leather work and this feed system work much better on leather than a roller foot (I have both systems) mine sews 14 mm thick leather, but I have modified the machine with a V belt, strong motor and speed reducer. Up to 12 mm stitch length, from size tkt 20 to 6 polyester thread. This is a very good machine, but parts are hard to find. It uses the same shuttle as your class 4, and you can get new Japanese shuttles for them to. Other parts will (normally) not break. Look at page 13 in the manual, about the " Mitghende Nähfuß " Send me a PM or a email for more questions. Trox .

Hi, I use the wooden strap cutter myself it is easier in the beginning because it eliminates the use of your thumb to press down the strap. But both cutters work the same way, and in time, you will learn how to cut strait. Remember to only use your free arm to pull the strap true, never pull with the cutter. On wide strap of heavy leather press your tool tight against the leather and pull the strap true. On the wooden cutter, it is possible to change the angle of the blade a few degrees by placing a thin piece of cardboard between the blade holder and the frame. The blade then act like a rudder of a boat compressing the leather against the tool. On thin straps and soft leather, we use the opposite angle. It must be possible to do the same in the blade holder of the metal one, 2 degree inside angle on heavy wide strap and opposite on narrow strap. But the must important is to pull the strap true and keep the cutter steady. Trox

Hi Gary, Are you sure about the model number? Trox

Hi Sandy, What Les No6 is saying is great information; you have to search for more machines in Holland Sandy. Find those beauties and bring them back to life. Sell or give them away to leatherworkers who will restore and use them. It is like an old car, if you put them in a museum they will die, if you use them a little bit every day they will work forever. Sandy I tried to send you the Adler 5 manual in smaller portions today, I think it worked. Trox

And pretty it is! Great buy Sandy! I know absolutely nothing about this machine, but it is members here who do. Search the forum for details and weld a stand for it. Look in the forum on Oldtimers (Knut from Sweden) stand for his Adler 205. The best thing would be an original treadle stand, but where to get one, I do not know. Maybe Sewmun or Campbell Randall can help you. You have seen this. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33348&st=0&p=207083&hl=pearson&fromsearch=1entry207083 Trox

Hi Vincent, You can buy servo motors and speed reducers from our member dealers. Or from Sieck.de in Germany. Maybe Sewmun have a 220 volts servo motor for sale. You can order from Cobra Steve 220 v, I did. http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?category=22. What is the price of that Global machine?, if the price is good buy it! (But try it first) The Adler and Pfaff are good machines but they are 40 year older than the Global.. I have Adlers machines myself and love them. But you are looking for the best machine for the money, are you not? Here is a easy way to stitch those stering wheels . http://www.youtube.com/user/Cechaflo#p/u/16/c1q84ew-Blc. Trox