Trox

That will be about 100 euro. I f you only need a Blanchard round or skiving knife, I know a Danish site that sells them at a good price. The best thing is that they wiil not charge you any Danish (EU) tax, thats 25 % off the price you see on the website. They do not have so many Blanchard tools, but they have the best European prices I have seen. http://laederiet.dk/produkter/vistyper_engelsk.asp?id=24&Uid=33 It will be about 37,50 Euro for the 12,5 cm Blanchard round knife (plus shipping) I also find Blanchard and Dixon difficult to deal with, I buy old tools instead. Trox

Everything is better than a Tandy knife. If you buy a knife from Dixon it will not have an edge, the Blanchard has, but also need a lot of work. The Barnsley I do not know, but I do not feel secure about it yet. It is many hours grinding an edge on a knife like this, without a proper cold grinding tool and experience; it can be a real hustle. If you want a good knife, buy one from Bruce. You cannot get a new knife that compeer to the good old ones, without spending a fortune on a custom-made knife. Bruce’s tools are already polished and set up for use. I just received an Osborne leather compass and an 8 inch splitting machine that I bought from him, I am very satisfied. And I am already ordering more from him. You had better buy from him, buying from Hale and Co you do not know if the knife is a good old one, or a poor quality remake. I buy a lot of old tools myself, now I have five old head knifes waiting to get the treatment; removing rust, grinding and wheel polishing. I am using a full day on one, and the prices on old knifes are very high (too many that collect them). Check EBay and you will see that Bruce has great prices on his tools. That’s my two cents.

It seems like I totally missed the target here. I am sorry if I have offended anybody, this story was unknown to me. I am glad I was wrong. But it does not hurt to be a bit careful with all these remaking, branding and copying by today. I guess there were a big lot of old/new tools after all. If some of the tools are made today, the plough gauge must be one of them. Look at Bruce’s website and blog to see the real deal. Look at Blanchard’s web site to see how the tool should look today too http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/liste_produits.cfm?type=31&code_lg=lg_fr&num=2 This was in 2009, and still Mister Hale does not have his website up running? Let us invite him in to this forum to answer directly too the customers, then maybe he will sell some more tools too. Somebody who has bought from him, please come forward:feedback: About J. Dixon and Vergez Blanchard tool/ knifes. I have been using Blanchard’s knifes for many years, it is very good knifes. I got my first Dixon head knife today, it was a T. Dixon and it was unused (without an edge and with a new nice handle. Bought private). I am still not finished cold grinding an edge on to it, so I cannot help you. If it turns out to be very good, it is still not available anymore. However, his son J. Dixon still make tools, he is a member here too. (I have a Dixon plough gauge it is a good tool, but it is an old tool too and not comparable )

I would not buy anything from this supplier, believing it is real George Barnsley and son tools, Sheffield. As everybody knows that company was closed down in 2003. http://www.28dayslater.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=63682 It may be somebody bought the name, or it is possibly legal to use now; ten years after company closed down, who knows. They can make his tools in China, and using a postbox address in Sheffield UK. That plough gauge (as Bruce mention) is brand new, but look like is made out of a pattern for the earliest gauges; made nearly 200 years ago. Even stored in the global seed bank in Svalbard (Arctic), it would not look that new. If somebody had a big lot of new/old Barnsley tools, purchased before company closed down. Why be secret about it? It would be worth a lot more sold as is, why take all the trouble claiming the company still exist the same as before. A big lot of new/old tools are not likely to exist without any of our tool collectors and experts like Bruce knowing about it. If anybody has started up producing leather tools in the UK again, we would also know about it before they had made one single tool. It is called advertising. Then allow up to 45 days of delivery (30 in handling and 15 on shipping) For the average Ebuyer a bell should start to ring. Is it not the same magical amount of days you have to complain with in, to get an Ebayers protection? I do not know the Hale and Co, but to me it smells, like the famous small room. But I am no expert, only a concern customer.

I do not know the Sailrate; I was talking about industrial sewing machines in general. Where you often have the same machine head with different ratings and feeds. A bit overbuilt, made for continuous factory use and lasting a lifetime. I understand the Sailrate is an all-metal construction; however, it is not built for production. I think it was made for repairing sails onboard yachts. Made small and portable, for use when you need it in a yacht. It is not an industrial sewing machine, in the literal meaning of the word. I would not push my luck with that machine. It looks like they already have taken out all the performance it is good for. It is not like it is a Cadillac 500 Cid engine with only 190 hp, more like a Citroen 2CV triple turbo on steroids. Just my impression of it, I do not know the machine. Trox

Thats a copy of a Adler class 5, and so is the Singer 45K Trox

No flames, but the bigger needle can hit the hook. Check the distance from the needle to the hook. You can adjust the machine to use a bigger needle; setting a bigger distance between the needle and the hook. Example; the machine is adjusted with a Nm 140 needle and the distance should be 0.2 mm. Use that bigger Nm 180 needle instead, and set the distance to 0.2 mm. Adjusting the needle guard if necessary (if it is a vertical hook) (Doing so you will have issues sewing with the smaller needles; thinner needle = bigger distance. It will have trouble picking up the bobbin thread). You must also check if the hole in the needle plate and feed dog is big Enoch, The needle must have room to bend a bit. It is smart to have the safety clutch working as mention by Art. Remember to Increase the foot pressure, to keep the material in place. A bigger needle needs more force to penetrate and equal opposite pressure (down force) on the sewing foot. I do not know your Imperial thread sizes, but going up only one or two sizes, the tension will normally be strong Enoch. However, you cannot go in high speed. You will also have issues as small bobbin, holding only two meters of bobbin thread, sewing feet’s with to small needle holes etc. You just have to try, it sometimes work fine. But do not expect any refund or warranties if you break your new machine. Trox

Thank you both for those manuals, they where very useful to me. Especial the the adjusting with the papir strip part. I used to mutch leather adjusting my machine. No I have set my machine to a "zero position" by using papir strips. Keeping the knife sharp and free of burr, using the grinder and the hand stone at the same time; it works perfect every time. Thanks Trox

Hi, Listen to Art; what he ment was upper and needle feed. That is what you have left with that kind of needle plate. (Triple feed is; bottom, upper and needle feed) I would not buy that kind of machine, like the Ferco 1010. It is true it is economical, It is the cheapest kind of heavy stitcher made in China. Nothing wrong about Ferco, this machines comes under many different brands. It is a older model machine on its way out. Not many offer them anymore, the ones that does offer it as a economical solution. You must buy a machine with triple feed, You can buy a 441 clone 16 inch arm triple feed from Cobra, Cowboy or Techsew for plus 2K $. That is similar to the Ferco Pro 2000, and does the same job.Techsew sold that 1010 model before as model 180 something, they changed it with the new 441 clone (T-5100) The 441 clone from one of our dealers is a much better sewing machine, even in a nine inch verson. They are set up to sew leather up to 7/8 of an inch and comes with all kinds of attachments a saddler needs. Trox

Hi Buffalobill, I have an Adler class 5-27; it is the same machine as the 5-8. The 5-8 has bottom feed and a jump foot, forward and reverse. The class 5 is the forerunner of the class 105. I also have a 105-25 but I prefer to use my old class 5. My 5-27 sews 14 mm tick heavy leather; the jump foot works great on leather. The machine was made for sewing medium and heavy leather, having a bottom feed it will sometimes set marks on the leather. However, not as much as a bottom feed only machine will. The jump-foot takes away some of the pressure from the feed dog, when the foot jumps with the feed. Adjusted the right way, markings on the leathers backside is not a big issue. The stitch pattern is even and fine. This is the yesterday’s saddler machine, and cannot compare to the modern triple feed 441 or Adler 205-370 saddlers machine. Nevertheless, the build quality and materials is superb, I will not part with my machine. I will sell my newer Adler 105 and 204, but my class 5 stays. Made before the WW2 and still in new condition. The class 5 uses the same shuttle/bobbin as the class 105 first came with, some of the later 105 machines have changed their to the new big 204/205 shuttle. Using the new industry standard bobbin, same as the classes 204, 205, 441 and clones. The Adler class 5 cylinder bed, class 4 flat bed and Singer class 45 flat/cylinder bed (Similar machine from Singer) served Leather workers faithfully for over a half century. The Adler 205, Juki 441 and clones is now the new standard in the saddler business. Made in China, only time will tell if they last as long as the old class 5 did. Trox

I am sorry, but It looks like steel on the picture. Let me know when you ready to make another one. Thanks Trox

Hi Knipper, What a beautiful blade you made! Great job. I was looking for a new blade for my Dixon plouge gauge when I saw this. Dixon sells new blades on their web shop, but I rather buy one from you. Do you want to make more blades? Your blade is very beautiful, but would you consider using some brass in it. I kind of love the old toolmakers use of brass, brass also go nicely with the plouge gauge; it is a retro tool. The brass adds some warm color to the cold steel. Your handle construction is an improvement over the Dixon’s. Please send me a PM with a quote if you will make more blades. If I can afford it, I buy it. Thanks:You_Rock_Emoticon: Trox

Ok That explains it, 22 $ @ Kwokhing.com. ( you can use the Pfaff guide for your machine) Trox

I received the guides to day. One for my Dürkopp Adler 267-373 and one for my Pfaff 345. On the Adler, it is bolt on, 10 minutes job. On the Pfaff, I have to make a treaded hole. I will post when the job is done. I bought the guides from Kwokhing.com. Two guides with rollers and extra straight edges for both. Brackets and a set of binding feet’s for my Pfaff. All together 69, 70$ and 31 $ in shipping (Hong Kong - Norway). Great price, Great service, Great stuff. Top shelf all the way, very nice people to do business with. You can find the Adler KG 867 guide on Ebay for 90 $, I paid 25, 90$ for it, and 22 $ for the other guide, direct from the manufacturer. Great Deal, now I know where to buy all my attachments. Thank you Kwokhing. I will post the Pfaff guide when it is done. Trox

That wasn’t too bad. Yes, that might be the case. You can also use a manual for some of the other Pfaff post bed machine. Most Industrial sewing machine works and operates the same way. It is important to have a part list and if you will service yourself; a service manual. It is not always easy to get those service manuals, sewing machine repairs shops has their own and they see no reason to share them, so they will get fewer jobs. This machine threads the way it is threaded now, and in the same way that most other Industrial machines does. You most have a thread stand that takes thread of the top center of the spool (Important). A binding foot is for binding raw edges on fabric/leather with tape, together with a raw edge binding attachment. (Google it up). Search the forum, every thing you need to know is in here. You will need different feet’s for different jobs, piping feet’s, zipper feet’s, left and right harness feet’s and so on. The standard foot is a Blanket foot set. Wizcraft has a topic about it somewhere; you can also use Google to search the forum if you include leatherworker.net in your search. Good luck Trox

Hi Bob, It is not a very common machine where I come from, I guess you have to ask some one from down under. Good luck Trox

The motor want work well with out the sync, (position head). One to one ratio t is a bad idea it will not work. The machine itself is strong; it has built in gears that make it strong. You must have a big hand wheel to punch true heavy leather, that’s what makes a leather machine (among other things, this is a key) 　 You know how much that Adler costs? About 200 000,- Euro. And it is big, very big. Be careful to run the motor with out a sewing machine on, it will not work the right way. The machine also has to be grounded (the current). There is a stand-alone sewing pedal, with a cable available. You will need the speed control (pedal) for sure. With all respect, do some more reading up before you start; you have a lot to learn. Read posts about what makes a good leather machine, it all applies to your machine. Your machine is build for leatherwork; find out what makes it that good. Compare it to a normal Juki 441. It is important than you know this things when set up your machine. Then you will have some good question to ask me the next time, He he. We talk later, I do not like to read instructions my self, but we all have to. All the answers are in the forum to. Good luck, Later Trox

Thanks Mattias, But the synchronizer should be together with the motor, it is normally included in the motor package. If you do not see it (like on my Efka) it is an internal one. This new modern motor system surely calculates the belt slippage and everything. I know that the Efka counterpart, the 1550 is strong enough to propel a 441 or a 205-370 with out any speed reducer. Even on the biggest tasks. I see no reason that the Ho Sing 1 hp AC motor will not. No worries, it will be strong and slow enough. If you have the data sheet on it, send it over and I will have a look at it later. I have some experience with similar applications, and know the terms and language. You must have the motor on the top of the table because of the boats hull shape, am I correct? You must remember to mount the motor in a way that you will be able to adjust the belt tension (without a speed reducer that is no problem. With one is difficult, because you have to place the reducer in a way that makes it possible to tension both belt) you must have a place for the thread rack too. It will need a thread rack that pulls thread of the top of the thread spool (the machine want sew proper without it). In addition, you will need a belt cover to avoid thread (or anything else) in your motor, that is now in an exposed position. This is the tings you should have in mind when you building the machine stand. It might be other concerns too, it is best to study the motor instructions well before you start. (I can help you with that; I can also give you my skype number if needed) Those Instructions can be frightening, building up a machine can be very time consuming even for a trained sewing machine engineer. The Shipping price was not too bad; do you have as much as 35 % VAT? Here it is 25 %. Thanks for the invitation, if I am in Sweden I let you know. I hope this will help a bit. Send me the data sheet and I have a look. Trox [

Remember when I was a young man I had a very strong Yamaha 350cc motorbike. It was a two-stroke engine; I had to feed it with chains and sprockets. I had to drive over the border to Sweden to buy them, it was too expensive here. Every week it wanted a new drive packet. After that time, I am allergic to sprockets.

Yes, I have ordered some great looking suspending guides (drop down guides) @ some great prices. Great customer service too, I cannot wait to get them. The prices is so low, it almost feels criminal. I will post all about it when I receive it. Trox.

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/132B26.pdf This can be used for the 132K, the 31K http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/31K.pdf pdf is also in the list at Singerco.com industrial Trox

Hi Wiz It might work, but I do not understand why he cannot use a V belt like the rest of us. There is nothing special about it, only that he should use it in a boat and mount the motor on the back to save space. He will not sew very thick, handbags and such. A V-belt, the right size and profile type will work just fine. Trox

Hi Rob, the bar that you are referring to is a leaf spring for the presser foot, not all classes/subclasses has it, your not. The feet’s is a binding foot set, you can buy feet’s for the machine class 1245 and 335. All kinds are available and will fit your machine. I cannot see anything else that is missing (at first sight). That cover plate can cost several hundred $ @ Pfaff. It would not surprise me if it does. Maybe Toledo Bob (sewmun) has one, or something from an other machine will fit, but I doubt it both. Part list is here ; http://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=parts_pfaff Trox

Tjena Mattias, Not new computer but new Internet provider (the company that deliver my broadband Internet connection) But thanks anyway. You ordered the machine already, but you bought the motor from Imca. Can you pls. tell me the price for the head with shipping? (Send it in a Personal message if you prefer) I am also considering buying a head only. But I have to sell some of the machines I already have to get more room, he he. Say hello to Steve from me if you talk to him, He is a great guy. The motor you bought is the new Ac motor from Ho Sing; I was wondering when they start to use this system in the sewing industry. I have been using the same system for a while on the old three phase clutch motors I have. This is the system used in all other industry today. It is a normal AC motor and a small computer controlling the currents frequency among other. All parameters can be set; you can connect a pot meter to adjust the speed and so on. Yours is the same but more advanced. I have some machines with three phase motors, both clutches a continuous drive motors. With only single-phase current in my workshop, I had to change the motors or the electrical system, the solution was the frequency converter (a small computer controlling the AC motor and changing the current, it is the same system). With this system, I can get a three-phase clutch motor to run as slow as I want. (The machine can be set to sew one stitch a day if I want). It works very well. However, your system is a complete solution. Which mini motor did you buy? I do not know the system with an internal synchronizer, but the normal one is mounted on the machine hand wheel. It count’s rotations and do not loose any accuracy with belt slippage. The machine hand wheels have a V belt pulley, it is a big heavy wheel to add torque and speed reduction. How do you plan to attach it to a flat-toothed belt? To do that you need a new hand wheel. Cowboy sells a bigger wheel upgrade, but it is still a V belt. The pulley on the motor must be as small as possible (50 mm or less) and the machine pulley as big as possible. The 750W AC motor would do the job, if not add a speed reducer. Look at the big monster Adler 120 (built on license from DA of http://www.sl-spezial.de/sl/index.php/company.html ) It has a mini servo (Efka 1550 with a planet gear for extra torque) mounted on the back. If you are not sure about the strength of the motor, you can ask Steve about what he thinks; and ask him to send with a speed reducer just in case. (It depends of the AC motor you bought) Or you can ask Gregg from Keystone sewing, he sells the ho sing, many other motors and all kinds of sewing machines ( he is a member here) You were right buying a Cobra; I have heard that Global is just a machine branding. The quality can be changing. However, Ho Sing is a pro motor. In addition, you bought a presser foot lift solenoid; it will be a great machine. You must post some pictures of it here. The Ho sing pimped boat Cobra. I cannot wait to see it. Good luck. Trox