Trox

Hi, pull out more bobbin thread, 8 inches. If it is to short it will not reach up true the needle plate. Have the bobbin closing plate open, to see if the bobbin turns around and picking up the thread. Not all 67 subclasses have a clutch, let us know if shuttle turns (and the subclass number). Thanks quote name='carolb' timestamp='1340150907' post='253275'] I have no idea if it has a safety clutch. It is impossible, I have no idea what we are doing wrong . It's frustrating as the machine worked great the last time I used it and I just wanted to use a clear thread for the seat covers and was switching it. I thought maybe is was the "fishing line" style thread and switched back to the old thread and it made no difference.

I am sorry. The links was dead for some reason, maybe because I use my own text editor to compose my post. This is the site . The Pfaff guide that I believe will fit many other machines. Dürkopp Adler guides. All that attachments for the guide; piping etc. (bottom page) will fit any guide they make. I have also asked them about Juki 441 attachments, and they only stock the blanket feet, plate and serrated feed dog. They will maybe make other parts for that machine, understanding it is a very popular machine for us leather workers. Trox

I hate to say it, but I told you so. Very good looking 29U, the first I have seen. I use the 29U manual for mine, I cannot see any differences between them. What is the full name on that 29U? Trox

Hi Wiz, I have learned a new word to day, Obfuscation. Great, Thanks. I been trying to tell folks the same too, but I did not have a name for it. Now I have. Somebody always answer to late, the damages is done. To you all; Limit the damages, remove it. Otherwise, the many more spammers will get your email and the risk of ID theft or virus is much greater. You can trust Wiz with that security repair, but avoid websites and add that offers the same. They actually install viruses and stuff in your computer instead of removing them Some people is calling claim they are from Microsoft and will help you remove viruses, directing you in to their website. Be aware it is a fraud, Microsoft will never do that. They fooled my mother, we had to reinstall everything on her machine, change all passwords, codes and creditcard. Trox

I forgot to mention it, both drop down guides came with roller and straight guides included in the price. I have used them for some time now, and they both work great. Kwokhing has given me great service and prices. Contact with email and payment with Paypal. Kwoking Thanks Trox

Dropdown sewing guide installation. I promised in the other topic to post when I had installed Both my new dropdown guides. Better late than never, so here they are. Original dropdown sewing guides can be very expensive and for some sewing machines unavailable. Kwokhing in Hong Kong makes attachments for most modern sewing machine and some older popular models too. Their dropdown guides has the most modern functions and design on the marked. Many dealers stock their products; they can also be bought directly from Kwokhing.com. The installation. On most machines, the guide mounts with a bracket on the backside of the machine head. Many new and some older model has already threaded holes the guide that will fit the guide. I bought guides for two of my machines; they both made my working day a lot easier. My Dürkopp Adler 267-373 had the two threaded holes (see pic.) necessary to fix the guide. I bought the suspending guide KG767B, $ 22,-, and the bracket KB267 $ 5, 80. The installation was a ten-minute job. My older Pfaff 345-H3-6C-LN had no such holes, so they had to be made. The guide I bought for the Pfaff is called; KG1245. KG1245 (named after Pfaff most popular sewing machine) is a kit containing the guide KG867 (who also fit Dürkopp Adler 867,767,467 and 267 and more). And a universal bracket to fit many Pfaff classes; the 1245, 335, 345 and more. It will fit many other sewing machine brands too. The kit also contains a roller and a straight guide. . The price was only $ 25, 90. (The same guide is sold for about 125 $ on EBay, the original Pfaff guide will cost you twenty times more) Both the guides has the same mounting holes and will fit many machines, the brackets are different and made to attach the guides to a particular machine(s). I preferred the guide KG867 (supplied in the Pfaff kit) better than the KG767B. So I switched them around and used the KG867 on the Adler machine, I use the most. 　 　 My Pfaff had no free threaded holes on the backside, so they had to be made. The job enquires some mechanical skills. The tools you need for the job is: A caliper or micrometer, drill machine, one 3, 5 mm and one 4, 2 mm high quality drill bits. A set of M5x0, 8 threading taps (the set contains three taps) and some cutting oil. I started to measure out where I needed to fix the guide. The holes need to be at least 8 mm deep. Make sure there is enough material where you need to drill. Study the machine inside out, read blue prints and part lists. You do not want to drill in the wrong place. If you do, it can be impossible to fix the damages. If you are not sure, let a professional sewing machine mechanic do the job for you. I will not hold any crash course in threading holes, if you are unfamiliar with this job. Read up on the subject, and find something else to train on. Make your training similar to the job, it easy to thread apiece vertical, it is a more difficult job done horizontal. Normally a set of threading taps comes in three, the first is a tapered tap to facilitate the initial thread cutting, the second is an intermediate type that is used to progress the thread after it has been started and then finally, a "Bottoming" thread tap. Which is used to obtain the full thread depth, when cutting a thread that does not go the whole of the way trough the piece. I already had a threading bit set that cover many different threads, but the set was cheap and have only one tap for each thread. Because of this, I had to drill deeper holes to ensure the threads were full depth where my screws were going to be. I needed to drill 12 mm deep to get full thread length on 7 mm. However, luckily it was enough metal to drill in on the Pfaff head, as it normally is on this kind of sewing machine head. The lesson is; it is better to buy a proper set of three M5x0, 8 threading taps, than an inexpensive set of several diameters threading taps. That way you do not have to make the holes that deep. Some machines may have one screw on the backside used for other things that can be switched for a longer one, and used for the bracket. That way you only need to drill one hole. The bracket will allow many different ways of mounting. The distance between the two screws etc. I believe that many of Kwokhings suspending (dropdown) guide mounts in the same holes. I am sure it is possible to ask for the Pfaff bracket together with and other style of guide. Look at how the guide spring is fixed; make sure it does not get in conflict with any moving parts on your machine. Attach your guide; do not screw in those umbraco screws to hard. You will break your threads or guide. 　 The pictures will tell the rest of the story. Good luck Trox

I Knut is right, it is repaired. Here is my J. Dixon plouge with a T. Dixon blade. It is a common issue with all old plouge knifes. Trox

I want say it is new and fancy, my oldest position system is an Efka variostop, it is about 30 years old. It is an electronic clutch motor, with an electronic brake. It is build like a tank. I also have a modern Efka DC position motor. The latest motor systems from Efka; Dc 1550 is a very strong mini servo. It will propel the 441 with no use for a speed reducer. Here it is in use on the new big Adler 120 (the control box is not in the picture) Look at the motors on Keystone; http://store.keysew.com/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors. Trox

Hi Tom, Many Singers are clones themselves. Who cloned whom, that is the big question. These days it is very few Singer clones. If your machine is without threaded holes on the backside. (I guess it is, no dropdown guides where invented when that Singer was born) I believe you can use the universal Pfaff bracket and guide. The installation enquires some mechanical skills. I promised before to post here when I had installed both my new Drop down guides. I bought two sets of suspending guides from kwokhing.com, one for my Dürkopp Adler 267 and the other for my Pfaff 345. I already showed pictures of the 267 installation. It is an almost new machine and has threaded holes on the backside for installing the guide; all it needed was a custom-made bracket to fit the guide. The suspending guide KG767B, $ 22,-, and the bracket KB267 $ 5, 80. http://www.kwokhing.com/adler/da_guide.htm The older Pfaff 345-H3 has no holes for guide installation. In the pictures, you see how I drilled and threaded the two holes needed for the installation. The guide I bought for the Pfaff is called; KG1245. It is made to fit the Pfaff classes; 1245, 335 and more. The set contains a universal bracket that can be attached to almost any machine type. Your Singer head is very similar to the pfaff, (except for the bed). I am sure you will find some material to drill in on the backside of your machine too. The KG1245 set contains the guide KG867 (who also fit Dürkopp Adler 867,767,467 and 267 and more). A universal bracket to fit many Pfaff machines (other brands too), a straight guide and the roller guide http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/pfaff_guide.htm. The price was $ 25, 90 The tools you need for the job is: A caliper or micrometer, drill machine, one 3, 5 mm and one 4, 2 mm high quality drill bits. A set of M5x0, 8 threading taps (the set contains three taps) and some cutting oil. I started to measure out where I needed to fix the guide. The holes need to be at least 8 mm deep, make sure there is enough material where you need to drill. I will not hold any crash course in threading, if you are unfamiliar with this job. Read up on the subject, and find something else to train on. Make your training similar to the job, it easy to thread apiece vertical, it is a more difficult job done horizontal. (The Guide in the picture is the one I bought for the Adler. I switched the guides because I liked the “Pfaff” guide better. Both guides will fit the Pfaff universal bracket. See my earlier post to see the guide in the KB1245 set). The pictures will tell the rest of the story. Good luck Trox

This was the content of the deletet post, it is now out of order, but without your real email in it. Trox "Hi and Welcome to the forum. Your email will be spammed if you use that format, edit your post and use this format; robynstoll at gmail dot com. It is much safer. Trox"

What is your name Tattoo girl, you can delete it and post it again. Do it as fast as possible, they have search engines looking for emails all the time. As less exposed as better. I will change my post too. Trox

Hi all, We should not be afraid to give some constructional critics of the equipment. The Chinese will not use one dollar more to improve their motors, if they do not have to. Sewing machine shops in Norway do not sell their machine with low priced motors. Very much of the sewing experience is related to the motor. Most of the Dürkopp Adler’s sold here has Efka DC stop motors with pneumatic fixing, backtacking, foot lift and position. Sewing on them is a dream, but any sewing machine would be with this setup. (Almost). If I was, a dealer I would at least offered the 441 clone with a choice of a professional motor; like the Ho sing, Efka, Seiko and more. It deserves and needs it. I am able to stop my brushless cobra motor on a quarter of a stitch, but after I changed it over to an other machine, I got an issue with it. It sews a couple of extra stitches after the power is shut of. I have checked my connections, it is all like before this issue started. Is this also related to this light switch? Some ideas? I see that Greg from Keystone offers a nice selection of motor for his machines. I want to ask him about the Ho sing motor that costs 475 $, how does this compare to the Efka 1550, or to the older Dc 1600? A strong position motor do not need a speed reducer on the 441, you will save some dollar there. A low-priced servo and a speed reducer will be about 300 $, the Ho Sing is 475 $, that is only 175 $ more. The Ho Sing is a professional motor with a good reputation. Gregg if you follow this tread, please give us your opinion on this. Thanks I too has been “lucky” with a clutch motor, my new 441 clone comes with an ISM 600 Watt clutch motor and no reducer. I have no problem sewing thick leather slow on it. I was planning to change it. Only a pro position motor will work better than this. Trox

Did I say I liked the” low speed starting sewing setup”? No, I said; it is the time the motor uses from 0 rpm to the rpm you choose to sew on. Of course, it is much less sensitive on 9 than on 1. It is the motors response time, the acceleration time of the motor. Let say you set the motor to max 100 rpm and the start up time to 9; it will use more time from you push the pedal to it reach the desired speed, than if you set the startup time to 1. So that is the purpose, it will not jump as quickly with longer startup time. Forget about the name, it is a result of Google translates, I do not say it is good, but that is the purpose. Keep your hand away from the needle at any time; it goes for every sewing machine with the motor switched on.

I have the same motor in 220 volts and a range of other motors on my nine sewing machines. This is a low priced motor and I will not compare to my high priced Efka dc motor. The motor is very strong; however, it is a bit sensitive on the pedal. Be sure to set up the “low speed starting sewing setup” (the time the motor use to reach full speed, the adjusted max speed) it ranges from “1” to “9“, “9” being the slowest start up time. The default startup time is “6”, it is much better on “9”. If you have a speed reducer, be sure you do not have too much belt tension. Too much belt tension will make the machine hard to turn by hand, and the motor will need more power to start. Then again be more “sensitive” on low speed. The first generation low-priced servomotors were often too weak in power. I guess that was an issue for changing to an other design. If I had to choose between a motor too weak or to sensitive, I would choose the last one. You cannot get a motor like an Efka for 145 $, if you could then Efka would be out of business. This way we will be able to get a complete sewing machine for a reasonable price. I am sure that the Chinese makes 441 clones much better than they make hi-tech servomotors. I think that an Efka dc 1550 will replace both the low-end servo and the reducer. It is a perfect motor, only one V-belt, strong enough without a speed reducer. The setup will be some hundred $ more, but not much. I think those Cobra/Cowboy machines deserve a high-end motor option. Trox

Hi, Die cutting leather requires many ton of pressure, the smallest presses uses 6 ton, normally 10 to 20 tons. This looks like a paper clip tool; I suppose it can cut very thin bookbinder leather. It looked like it is inspired from, gingerbread die cutting with a bakery roll. It is normal with moving head cutting presses; I guess a moving bed one will take up unnecessary big space. I bet you can cut the same thickness of leather with a die and a hand roll. Trox

Hi Gump, Welcome. Then I have recruited a new member. I have seen this add before. The sign on the front of the machine is gone, that machine is a 104-23, not a 25. It is common to do this kind of mistake, because of the similarity to the cylinder arm 105-25. When the number plate is gone, there is nothing that proves it is a 104-25. That machine is not in any of Dürkopp Adler’s lists or manuals, the 23 is the 25 version in flat bed. If this is not a custom-made machine, but why would they custom make a machine they already produced, the 104-23. The feed is the same as the 105-25, under and top feed. (it has a feed dog and a feeding foot. with separate adjustment for ruffing work) When you American talk about a “walking foot machine“, you really mean a triple unison feed machine (under, over and needle feed, adjusted together) those triple feeds has a feeding foot and a vibrating foot. (together with a walking needle and a feed dog) Any machine that has one foot that walks can be called a “walking foot machine” so that is really a bad term. Thanks for your comment, but it is common errors in adds to list wrong subclass numbers. Thanks Trox

Hi Glenn, Thanks for the tip, I found their web site. My class 5 is a pre WW2 machine in daily use. I have not been able to break anything on it yet, it still looks like new. I have changed the shuttle because I was not able to get a new tension screw for it. That screw has a special thread, and is an obsolete part. I have a 441-clone incoming, if it works out as good as expected, I will part with some of my machines (Adler's 105-25, 204-64 and 30-15. Singer 236W-100). My 5-27 is like new and I will not get what is worth, so I think I will keep it. The others are machines I do not need anymore. I am thinking about exporting them. It is a very limiting marked for sewing machines here in Norway. (Every machine serviced and set up for leather before sale) It look like Simard MSM still have some new/old Dürkopp Adler's models for sale, all of his Adler models except two is out of production. If somebody looking for a good made in Germany Adler, this must be the place to try out. If I (or somebody else) need some old parts, I will give them a call. Thanks for the tip. Trox [

I found one too, It is an old Blanchard (matching number on part) It needed a bit of work, but now it is useable again.

Hi, That is to small. Juki 1341 is a machine for medium thickness up to 3/8 of an inch, you need a bigger machine.

Hi Sylvia, It is possible and it happens from time to time. Knut sure was lucky. However, you have to look for it. I had some lucky finds on sewing machines; people thought I was a lucky guy. It happened because I was good at it, knew how and where to look. Skills and luck go hand in hand. Like in sports, the clever ones are always lucky. We cannot win the lottery with out playing. In some countries, it is easier than other to find old nice tools. USA, UK and France have all great tradition of leather tools. I have bought many nice old tools from France lately. Look at Bruce Johnson; he knows where to look for old tools. Hi Knut, Did you look at the hockey finals to day? I know you did. Little Norway got one player on the old star team. I was a bit disappointed about the Swedish team. I expected more from them. I will take a trip to that store and look what left in the drawer; I was not the only one who knew about it. It is a long drive for you, I can send you an email after I been there. Trox

Thats a sweet dream, it works both night and day.

Big pictures! Here is a quick way to resize a picture in windows Vista, I click on the picture and it opens in windows photo gallery. Then I choose the Email button (on the top border), the pic then resize and you will get five sizes to choose from. I know that medium (default size for emails) will often work well on LW net. I click Ok and an email with the attached pic opens. I open the attached pic in the mail and make a copy. I use the copy. It is fast and the right size, with no needs for other programs. Message.

Mine is a metalic blue, jumping shuttle and jumping foot 29K-72 EL (electric, original clutch that I never used) Here seen working on a plastic aligator micro golf bag.

I wish for an other unopened drawer with old/new leather tools, knifes and maybe a brass plough gauge. I better play the lottery instead.

I dont think so, do not worry about it. I think it should be this way, you cannot break anything. I am not worried.