Trox

The answer to you question is no. This is not that easy to understand, I try to explain as good as possible. It refers to the material you want to bind. The sewing industry mostly uses already made tapes for such tasks, and they are fairly thin. Here are some terms in use. ”Material thickness” = maximum allowed thickness of the material you want to bind. ”Mouth width” of the binder; it refers to material thickness (the material you want to bind). ”Tape” = the material feed in to the binder is called tape. ”Tape size” = the width of the tape. (The thickness of the tape is not listed; you have to ask about the binders maximum tape thickness) The 1-needle binders has no listed material thickness, you have to ask them about this (or binders mouth width). Example. If you look at the cylinder bed binder KHF2, you will see they comes in two material thickness sizes S= 5 mm (for use on up to 5 mm thick material) and H= 7 mm (Up to 7 mm thick material). So ”H” and ”S” is the options in mouth width, and tell you how thick material they will be able to bind. I bought the KHF2, H tape 22 mm. This can bind up to 7 mm thick leather with the tape size 22 mm. (width). I have tried it with a tape thickness of 1,4 mm and it looks like it can handle up to about 1,8 to 2 mm thick tape. I also bought the KHF4 in H (H = mouth size), tape 28 mm (width). This is a double fold binder for the same material thickness, up to 7 mm thick. These two binders are made for a cylinderbed machines, but I am able to use them on my flat bed too. The flatbed binders are ready to use with the tape guide rails. For my cylinderbed, I have an attachment with this rail the binder will be fixed to. This rail is necessary to feed the tape correctly. List your machine and material and ask for a quote, it looks like the KHF 18 is the biggest raw edge binder with tape rail listed. Thicker leather than 7 mm is not often binded (is not necessary), so bigger binders are not commonly to find. Trox

And thanks for showing me that the Enduro motor is the same as the Cobra motor, I was about to buy one for my 441 from Keystone. Luckily, Greg has not answered any of my email. That makes my choice easy; I will buy an Efka 1550 from Europe instead. Thanks Trox

Hi Doug, Binders are universal and attach to the needle plate with two screws. Normal the needle plate has some threaded holes you can fix the sewing attachments in. If you needle plates do not have those holes, there is other solutions to fix them too. For example if you have a dropdown guide, the roller can be taken off and the attachments can be fixed there instead. Kwokhing.com sells all kinds of attachments. (I have piping attachments that attach that way) Nevertheless, do not ask them for attachments for your 45 K, because that do not exist any more, and it will only confuse them. They are based in Hong Kong and have very pleasant prices; contact is made true Emails and payment true Paypal. I just bought two binders for off them for a cylinder bed machine, one raw edge and one double fold Binder, http://www.kwokhing.com/KHF/ I paid about 9 to 10 US $ each. The binders can also be used on my Adler 267 flatbed machine. Find out what kind of binder you want, the tape size, and then take a picture of the plate and foot of your machine. Then send an Email to Mr. Bosco Ko in Kwokhing and ask him what he has for you. You might also need a binding foot set to be used with the binder, for your Consew that is no problem to find (they have that too). I do not know if you already have some presser foot that can be used; binders have to be attached very close up in front of the needle. Standard presser foots have to long toes and have to be modified or changed for binding feet’s. For your 45 K you might find something from the GA 5-1 or similar machines. Alternatively, you can use a roller foot that many dealers stock. Sewmun (Bob from Toledo) has them. The following machines from Adler also uses the same kind of roller/presser foot; 105-64, 104-64, 104-8, 105-8, 204-64 and 205- 64, Ferdco 440 Baby Bull and similar machines from Cowboy, Techsew. Ferdco do closeouts sales now to reduced prices. Kwokhing stocks a lot more stuff than is displayed on their web site; they also make the stuff they do not already have. I have bought a lot of stuff from them, unbeatable prices and very good service. Tell them you heard about them in the LW forum, I promised them to post about the company. I hope this answered you question. Good luck Trox

Great job, I will definitely give you the credit for teaching us this, thought Dave was the inventor. You did a great job explaining this mod for us. Seeing how easy this mod is, makes me wonder why they have not fixed this issue? You dealer watching this have to order a repair kit for it, made in something more sturdy than paper, if that will work? I saw the post the first time, but I did not want to take my motor apart. I also have some experience with motors much harder to control than this that is why I did not bother. Apparently, the slow start option works differently on these motors, mine works as it should and is best on setting nine. I have an other issue with mine, it will not stop when you turn of the switch, maybe that slow start option works as a kind of capacitor, storing the current and slowly lets it go. That kind of makes sense to me, I will play around with after I have done the mod and we will see. Thank you Trox

An original Pfaff needle plate cost more than Chinese 335 clone, the pfaff are a very good machine, but the spare part prices are astronomical. You have to take that in consideration. You have to try them both if they are used machines.

I know the Global is made in China after the new Pfaff 335 and the Seiko is a model of the old well proven Pfaff 335 and might have been produced in Japan? Is this right Bob? If so go for the Japan made one. Bob, are you back from the Amish with $$$ in your pocket? Please send me the parts that I ordred, and you will get more $$ too. In advance thanks. Trox

Hi James, how are you. What a question, no new machine looks like the 111. Maybe some clones do because it was a good design, an American design bought up by Singer. The 111 is also capable to sew a bit thicker than the 211, that what I have heard. I do not want to test it because I live in the world of Dürkopp Adler. Did you see that link I sent you from EBay (LW comments forum front side) about the DA 767, it is a machine hard to find used to a good price. It has everything, alternating height on the wheel on top of the head, large hook and long stitch length. Bought in Europe it always comes with an Efka motor and air foot lift, backtacking etc. I have seen them priced to almost 10 K $ used over here. I have a new DA 267-373 with Efka DC motor, those positions motors does your work very much faster. I am also upgrading my latest 441 clone with that kind of motor Efka 1550 or Ho Sing HVP 70 or 90. That kind of high-end motor makes all the difference. Depending of how much you will use your new machine every day, an eight hour production machine or a now and then use. The first require a new DA (Dürkopp Adler), Pfaff or a Juki, the second a Chinese clone will serve you. If you look for a new design of machine you must look at DA`s new machines like the 867, 667 or 367 M types of machines. James you of all should know this. But living in the USA I would have a look at those Juki 1500 or 2200 series machines, nobody ever talks bad about their quality. Trox

A Juki TSC 441 or a clone is a triple feed machine with excellent climbing abilities. The feet alternating height can be set from 4 to 8 mm, witch is the height the feet’s are alternating (lifting) over your work. It also has a very high foot lift; 1 1/8 “, making you able to lift your sewing foot clear of spots and buckles etc. I do not know the Boss, or how many mm 34 oz is (it is more than 8 mm, for sure), but it sounds like a big jump. I am sure the 441 is a better climber than the Boss is, however it sound like you must help every kind of machine over that big bump.

I agree with BDT46, thats exactly waht it sounds like, adjust the brake if it is a clutch motor ( a continuous running motor is normally a clutch motor) Trox

The accessories are different; Ferdco told me their attachment did not fit a regular clone because of their lower needle guide. This is depended of the height of the stirrup plate and feet you use too. I have feet’s in three different heights. I do my adjustments according to the Juki manual. When you put on a 10 mm high plate, it is the same as sewing the same height of leather. You have to withdraw that height from the machines total capacity. It’s of course limited of the needle bar stroke, but if you zero the machine on top of the stirrup plate its sewing conditions should be better. On the big Adler’s you get a distance piece on 12 mm to adjust the outer foot height, here I use a piece of paper. Needle bar at it top it should hold the paper down, but you will be able to pull it out from the foot. You also will have to consider the harness foot I am using is 4 mm longer than the original and the plate is very high, in addition, my max foot lift is only 24 mm. The later generation machines have 27 mm foot lift. The original TSC 441 lifts only 20 mm. With all the different attachment sizes too, it will be individual how they should be adjusted. The ideal sewing conditions however, should be the way Juki explains it in their service manual. I will trim down my plate; make it flat on the top and reduce its height a bit, as an other member has done, it will suit my machine better. If I could get Bob to send me that slotted plate, I will have all I need to do my work on it. Thanks Trox

Thanks you Bruce for that info, you are a walking encyclopedia of leather tools. Yes, it looks like the Dixon style of punch and the steel is good. I might be made in the same place as the Dixons. Will you have any holyday this summer? In case, I should order something of you. And please will you look at the sewing machine section, the thread about adjustments for the 441 stirrup plate. In advance thanks Trox

I will add this, your machine might have a higher foot lift than mine ( 24 mm on mine) No way I can use the (cowboy) stirrup plate without adjusting the presserbar and alternating height. This is also the same on Adlers, I am suprised how simmilar they are ( or then maybe not, in the world of copycats) Good machines this 441, strong but sound like a threshing machine. From a new 441 user in Adler land

Hi guys, I was about to write you Wiz about the same question. Still I got my machine to sew well with the cowboy stirrup plate. However, it misses some stitches sometimes; because of its height, the plate requires a much longer thread loop. When you turn the sewing piece it affects the thread tension and makes smaller loops; resulting the hook tip to miss it. Adjustments I do: You got to adjust the presser bar so the outside foot just touches the plate (and so the foot height lifted by hand lever is 12 mm. conditions; needle bar at it’s top position) And then again adjust the alternating height of the front foot (alternating height set to be equal with the outside foot; alternating 4 mm. Condition; alternating height set to the smallest, top of the slide adjustment). Just backing of the foot pressure alone is not enough with this high plate, and then you will damage something. I think I will reduce the height of my plate and make it flat on the top as I saw one in the forum did with his. Besides the long loop situation, the top of the outer foot will hit the needle bar when lifted at the wrong time; great care has to be taken using this plate. A trim of some of its height will make it much better, I think it was the member “Particle” (I am sorry I do not remember his nick) who had done this mod to his plate. When you also have different height of presser feet’s changing attachments, it is a lot of adjustments, some modifying might help. I have as we speak also ordered the slotted plate, I think that will work better when you do not need the height and only will eliminate the feed dog. Please some of you who have this plate like you Bruce Johnson and Particle, please let us know what you do when you change. In advance thanks Trox

Hi everybody, I got this in the mail today. I bought it as an Osborn tool in EBay. It is noted in the add it is made in England, nevertheless I did not notice. Now I see on the maker stamp it says "CS. Osborne Co. Made in England"? :brainbleach: Did CS. Osborne also produce some of their tool in England? Or is this a fake? I did a spark test on it and it looks like it is made of carbon steel. Anybody who knows more about Osborne tools than I do please let me know. In advance thanks Trox

As I mentioned above the older class 67 had very many subclasses specialized for the work it was intended to do. It was two one-needle models made for leatherwork; the different between them and the other triple feed models was the feed dog, feet and a stronger foot pressure spring. It had a leaf spring and the others a coil spring for the foot pressure. However, feet’s and feed dogs are interchangeable. If the foot pressure is insufficient, (I do not think so) the spring can be changed. The feed dog can be lowered in level with the needle plate (so it is less aggressive). The hook needle distance can be adjusted to use a bigger needle and thread. Therefore, you see the differences are minor. The later model also only came in two models (one and two needle), that proves the machine is versatile and can be used for most sewing tasks, (in the upholstery class). My old 67 sewed up to 11 mm with metric size 20 thread. It can be adjusted to use nm 15 too. I never tried to push it when I had heavier machine for thicker threads. Conclusion, If it has a triple feed you can use it, the machine might be old and a obsolete model, but it uses the same parts as the newer class 167 so that is not a problem. The hook is different but can be purchased from aftermarket part sellers everywhere. I doubt than any other part than the hook can be worn out, it is made of the best German steel. And in the prime time of German sewing machine production. It will survive us all. I hope this answered your question, try it out. Good luck Thanks Trox

Good lightning is necessary, I have a magnet led lamp that attach under the head, beside the needle bar. Very handy, but only one diode. I purchased mine in Norway, so I do not know the prices for them at Kwokhing. If you buy one, choose one with more than one diode, with diodes on both side of the needle bar. The ones from Kwokhing look good. Trox

Hi Nick, That is a Adler 67 or 167. Those two classes is the same machine, the only different is that the later 167 has a bigger bobbin. Adler 67 comes in many subclasses and has all kinds of feeds, from wheel feed to triple feed. The 67 sublasses for leather has a long leaf spring (for the foot pressure) on the top, this has not. The 167 comes only in two subclasses, one and two needle. Ask for a picture of the back side of the head where the machine class sign is located. The 67 and 167 is a very good sewing machine of the upholstry class. What kind of machine are you looking for? I hope this was to some help. Good luck Trox

Hi, Yes you have to email them, they do not have much for the TSC 441 yet (a couple of feet’s and the blanket plate), but they will start to make that to. A suspending guide (drop down) is from 20 to 25 $, feet’s from 12 to 20 $ and binders from 9 to 15 $. I base this prices upon what I bought from them before. The one I deal with is named Bosco Ko; he is very service minded and helpful person. I send in my order (on mail) and in a day or two, I receive a quote with prices, further pictures and so on. They use Paypal, so it is very safe and easy. They supply mostly for the modern production machines, If you have a special order they can make it too. I have bought guides for two of my other machines (D.A. 267-373 and Pfaff 345); I measured those guides to find out that I needed something a bit longer for the 441. The guide they supply for the DA 205-370 is the same one I have bought for my smaller (above) Adler. That guide looked a bit short for the 441 machine. What kind of equipment do you need? Trox

G`Day to you too, Thanks for your reply. Your machine looks very nice. Except for the name exactly like mine. I am still waiting for the shipment, it was sent express. It just figures, when you wait on something real bad, the D#%&.. tracking do not work. It only says out of US this date… and no more. The Norwegian tracking never works, they downsizing the Norwegian postal service and let normal grocery shops do the job. The call it “post in store”, I call it disaster. They lay all their trained workers go (with a financially parachute) and let untrained grocery store workers do their work. The machine works great and I find it especially easy to set the right tension on it, maybe because my experience of older bottom feed stitchers, who are not this easy to adjust. I too have been looking at that boxing attachment; if somebody has used it please let us know. I agree the dropdown sewing guide is not that necessary on a low speed machine. I usually make groves for the stitches to lie down in, they are easy to follow. However the guide it is good for other things too, you get extras for it like piping guide etc. http://www.kwokhing.com/da/. Kwokhing has very nice prices and good service too, they are located in Hong Kong and takes Paypal. I ordered this guide for my machine; it is a bit longer than the others I have from before. I am sure it will fit the clone. KG 967= 24, 60$ and the bracket for the Adler 205 (I think it will fit the Juki too, I am 99% sure it will work) = 5, 80 $. The guide comes with a roller and a long guide (or a zipper guide) I see the same guides sell on EBay for over 100 $, Kwokhing is the one making it. My 441 has no threaded hole on the backside to attach the bracket, I have to make them. I just did the same job on my Pfaff cylinder bed; I will post it here when I am done. Once you get use to having a guide like this, you wonder how you did with out it. Especially good for top stitching, where a conventionally guide will not work. I also ordered that piping guide (6, 60 $, coming from one of the worlds most expensive countries, I just love their prices), it fits my two others guides too. I believe they have and will make more sewing attachment that fit’s the suspending guide system. This was a bit free advertising for Kwokhing, but they deserve it. Kwokhing… Happy sewing to you too, Greetings Trox

Hi Darren, It is a used machine for sale in Norway just like the ones you are selling. It is for sale very cheap 167 $ (USD) I have no use for it but if somebody has I can buy it and ship it. I should be in working order but needs a service (like every used machine needs). What kind of needle system is this machine using, and can it do more than a 29K. Please compare it to a 29K, what do you think. It is only 40 km from me, I can ask if it still available. I might also a customer for it my self. Trox

The former posts was a bit of our discussed topic:offtopic: I was wrong in my presuming you had a Cobra, Dirtclod. The old Juki Pro 2000 is a Japanese American made machine and has to be top notch. 　 Thanks Art for your answer. I have heard the Highlead is a very good and strong machine. These machines sounds like something the farmers use to cut corn with, at those speeds it will be advisable to use hearing protection. 　 　 　 Thank you Tom for pictures and informative answer. Your accessories looks great, I have seen pictures of the single harness foot. One-day later update. Bob from Toledo offered me a good deal on the missing hand lever, stirrup plate, smooth feed dog, harness foot set, and a full paddle foot set. Only when buying all this together I could get a good deal like this, so I took it. (Parts is shipped express and is in the mail now). Thank you Bob for great service and fast shipping. The drop down guide I ordered from Kwokhing, I choose an extra long guide KG 967 and an Adler 205 bracket. (They do not sell a special guide made for the 441, but I am sure this will fit) Tom, Last time I bought from your company, I try to spread my (hard earned) Norwegian oil dollars evenly among you member dealers. (It is a quick job; it is not much of it. Price and availability is of course the key factor here, some of the parts you could not offer me, next time it can be the other way around) Thank you Tom and Art, you had both partly right about the jumping foot issue. The people that first assembled the machine cannot have been very experienced on the matter. They have mounted the motor to close to the machine, so the foot lift chain was resting on the motor. The reason I did not move it when I attached the speed reducer was that they had used threads inside the tabletop to fix it. Those threads is permanently fixed inside the wood, I did not have new bolts that was long enough to drill new holes and left it the way it was. Now I have eliminated the issue with an exhaust clip and a brass tube piece. This keeps the chain clear of the motor. See attached pic. About the stitch length I know how to adjust the stitch user length on the lever; I have several machines with the same system. I meant the mechanically adjustments of the stitch length 　 　 I did not explain well enough about the issues. I use to service all my machines myself, It kind of a hobby to buy and build up machines. I occasionally sell one or two too. I now have ten and selling five of them. Three was up for sale before I got this, If this machine works well, I be selling two more. (Adler’s 204-64 and 105-25) I will keep the ones I am using now, a long arm Singer patcher, a medium pfaff cylinder, a Dürkopp Adler 267-373, and this 441 clone. The 441 came with an ISM 600 Watt four pole clutch motor. It is surprisingly easy to use on slow speed, even before I attached a speed reducer. However I am considering putting a Efka 1550 stop motor on it, I like those Efka`s, I use them on some of my other machine too, no need for a speed reducer with this motor. I have a Juki service manual, when I told you that I have not read it, I lied. I am the kind of machine freak that reads sewing manuals as bed and toilet literature. In addition, do so long before I actually buy the particular machine I read about. However, I have not studied it closely yet, just read true it. In the manual they say it is important to adjust it to the right maximum stitch length, When the hand lever is on full it should be 11 mm according to the manual. Nevertheless, if the needle is not in conflict with anything, I do not know how important this matter really is. These are Juki specifications, I asked because you all have experience with the clone and know how similar it is to the real thing. If I had a Juki, I would just adjust it according to the manual. A other thing I have learned about machines is that everything tend to be related to each other, all adjustments has to be done in the right order. This is the case with my Alder’s, and most other machines too. I will go true and control every adjustment according to the Juki manual later. Besides the stitch length, the machine now works, as it should. Thanks Tor

That the way to do it Darren I agree with you, and be very informative about the product you sell. Lead the customer in the right direction and create the marked you do not already have. For my own sales I will use all that our modern world can offer of cheap technology, a video on every machine explain what thousand words cannot. We all have that technology in our pocket phone; very few use this basic tool. A customer do not know all the wonders the machine can do, or more important not do. However, remember to have what they need when they are ready to step up to a bigger machine, or else you will loose them to an other dealer. The 45 type of machine is something special indeed; I have a hard time selling my Adler 5-27 with all the extras. The pre war machine still looks like new. I maybe will keep it in my living room, so I remember to start work. Trox