Trox

You must email them the for prices. Trox

Hi , If you are a bit handy, buy a drop down guide for that machine brand your machine is a clone of, Adler, Singer, Juki or Seiko. Alternatively, for the one whom is the closest fit. Sometimes you will find something that bolts right on. If not, you must drill a couple of holes in the head, and thread them, to fit the guide. There are companies selling reasonable priced drop down guides. I believe http://www.kwokhing.com/guide/ has some. If you ask the Leather Guru, he knows of a Belgian company who has a lot of stuff too. I know somebody here who has bought attachments from Kwokhing in Hong Kong, and the price was very good (they use Paypal too). Forget the old style guide, this style is the real labor saving device, this is what you need for topstitching, and more. I am in the process of ordering stuff from them myself. Just a tip, Trox

Hi Sewingtec, Thanks, I was lucky to get help from a friend. I think this solves my problem this time. Thanks. Trox

Thank you Ralph, If you do not want any money, I sure own you a big favor. Maybe you will need anything I can help you with, or somthing from scandinavia. Do not hesitate to ask me. You are the best. Not only a great craftman, but a great human being too. Please send me an email with your account number or Paypal details so I can pay you for the shipping at least. Thanks Trox

Here is a picture of a Consew 227 with a sync. raw edge binder that Coryleif sent me. I has a cut of presser foot and a short front foot. Trox

You are the miracle Ralph, Thanks again. But don’t you still have a Pfaff 335 that can use those feet? I do not have any picture of those feet’s, but it is drawings of them in the subclass part list attached. If you look at the sub class -H3 17/01 and the above part numbers. It looks like a standard left foot with a short and wide vibrating presser (front) foot. I guess that is easier to see when the binder is in place and modify them then. (However, the Pfaff feet’s are very hard tempered, I had to grind a bit on mine, and it was very hard) Thanks Trox kgi582aa.pdf

Hi Sewingtec, Thanks, but it looks like I will get some help from my friend Ralph (Leather Guru). I also have some options to buy from a low price Hong Kong company kwokhing.com, If I can get in contact with them. But thanks for your help, you are doing a great job on sew24.com providing manuals and obsolute parts. Thanks Trox

Hi Ralph and Sewingtec, My Internet line has been down because of an ISP change. It is hard to follow up these topics on an Iphone, but broadband line is up again now. Thank you my good friend Ralph, but you must accept some payment for it. I do not have any experience with the binding operation, but I can see the necessity of a synchronized operation cause of the walking foot. Is it possible to connect your swing away bracket to the feed dog? If so the only thing I need more is the needle plate for the subclass -H3 17/01, # 91-040 701-04. This is a plate with a cut out for the synchronized binder bracket. If I can not find one, I can do as you did and modify a standard plate. The binder foot set has the number # 91-042 819-93 x 5, 0 and # 91-040 432-04 x 8. Or I can use a clone product. Thank you again Ralph, think of a price, if you have Paypal it is easy to send you money. I have also received a PM from Coryleif, he informed me about a Hong Kong company; kwokhing.com. These are the prices of the binders he purchased from them: KHF2 (S thickness) 26mm USD 12.30 KHF8 Single Fold 1" USD 8.40 KHF66 1" USD 12.30. I have not had time to contact them yet. Thanks Trox

Tjenere Mattias, Good choise, make sure you order a motor with ESP ( position). and 220v. Steve is the best Guy you can buy from. It is importent that the Dealer will support you, even when you live so far away as we do. Steve will Do just that, thats his "thing". Pls tell me what you have to pay for the shipping and the Swedish handling, when you know so. You can send me a PM or a mail. How long do you have to wait for the machine? Or did he have one in stock. I have never used a cutting machine like that, I work mostly with leather using my head knife. It's looks very modern and with out cord too, great deal. I will be with out ISP some days, because of changing to a new one. I am currently using my phone, it is a hustle. Send me a picture when you receive your new Cobra machine. Good luck. Thanks, Trox quote name='GONG' timestamp='1328394273' post='232789'] Tjena Trox You have told me a lot of valuable information. Thanks! It´s big that you´re not pissed that we colonized you. I ordered a Cobra 4 from Steve and his cowboy mates. I just couldn´t resist when I saw that picture. Can you get more cool? But the machine seem nice and also improved. Thank´s for the tip! The bags I sew are heavy duty. Thickest imaginable canvas and leaver. And thick webbing. I make tool bags and bags for heavy equipement. Also if you want to look more manly you can have them. If it gets to thin then I can use a Durkopp 239 that I bought on an add. It misses a couple of pieces but it really looks brand new. Looking for an exploded view picture on it so the right parts can be ordered. I bought an Eastman 134 cutter on a flea market yesterday but it´s so big. Have you tried this? (picture) Again Thanks a lot. GONG

G`Day to you HS, Some machine brands recomend to use a drop of locktite on that screw. It might be a good idea. Trox

Hi Darren, I made a choice. I do not have unlimited space to store them, or time to restore them. I decided to buy some other machines with cylinder bed instead. However, it was not an easy choice, they are very special, and do their work very well if restored. A new machine with the same rating will cost a fortune. Nevertheless, there is no marked for them here in Norway. I can fill up a 40-foot’s container with old sewing machines and ship them down to you Darren. Those machine like Singer 29K 31- 15, 99, 66 sells for nothing her. They sell them for 45 $ in a second hand/ antique shop. When sold private, less than that. Here is a complete sewing shop for sale 49000 NOK (8450 USD). http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/tilsalgs/annonse?finnkode=32895008 The machines are not leather working, they are old but in good working conditions (click on the picture to see them all). This shop has been for sale for a long time, and nobody wants it. The Norwegians has too much money, nobody want to work as an artisan any more. We import all the stuff we need, the only thing we produce here is Oil, gas (bio plastic from oil) and fish. People like me, who works with their hands, do it because they love it, not for the money. Nearly every week I see a story like this; a shoe repair shop or such for sale for less than nothing does. (I have a complete shoe repair shop for sale my self, the owner went bankrupt and I help him rescuing his machines. Stored them in a friend’s rental stock. The owner could not pay any rent, he owns my friend four years of storage fees. We have to sell all his machines to cover the bill. The shop owner has disappeared, moved to a foreign country, nobody have heard from him since) this is a very sad but common story here in Norway; the cost of producing is too high to make a business. Then again, it is no marked for second hands machines anymore. (The only machines who sells are big leatherworking ones with cylinder bed and such). I have to take this in account when buying a machine to refurbish. I past on many machines like the Adler 20 and the Singer 7. Three to four years ago they was worth something, but with all the cheap Chinese machines doing the job for a fraction of the price, they will not sell anymore. Ask the USA dealer. 　 Gregg; when was the last time you sold one like that. Find me a marked and I start to collect them. Trox

Hi Mattias, First of all, that was not my web page you looked at. It is Olav Nyby in Furnes Norway who also sells a 441 clone machine. (At the bottom of his site for 25 K Nok.) The first clone he sold was an Artisan 3200. I do not know what brand he sells now, he imports from USA. (Not Artisan) There are no machine that can sew all thicknesses and thread sizes. For your kind of work, the best machine would be a medium triple feed cylinder or post bed. A narrow cylinder like the Pfaff 335, Juki 145, 245, Dürkopp Adler 69, or a 669 will be good for small stuff. But they have a small bobbin and can not take heavy thread. A medium heavy machine like the new D.A. 869, will do the job and take threads up to tkt 10 (synthetic), it is a new version of my Pfaff 345-H3 with big bobbin, high lift. Similar Juki is; LS 1340 serial. Those machines will sew up to 10-11 mm thick and be much better on soft skin and thin bag leather than the big 441 machine is. The 441 is a machine for extreme heavy work, it has a long needle and big foot lift. Thin needles will brake easily. Those machines performs better on thicker work like harnesses, Saddles and holsters with many layer of thick leather. Sewing thick thread on thin leather is a difficult task, in order to make the seams look good, the thread loop must be adjusted to be in the middle of the material. Not lay on the top, or on the bottom. With thick thread and thin material there will be little to no room for the thread loop. It is possible to get right with a lot of adjustments every time. You will experience this when you start working with those heavy threads. Finishing seams with thick thread is also a challenge if you want quality work. There is a reason why bag makers uses the thread sizes they do. I have seven sewing machines myself, rating from medium heavy to extreme heavy. I do a lot of work on leather back packs and bags; I always use the medium triple feed machines for this kind of work. Take the material you will use in your bags, bring it with you to a sewing machine dealer and make some test seam. Measure its thickness and ask them to find the best machine for the job. All I am saying is the biggest tool is not necessary the best one for the job. I have not received the price on the head yet, but the used 441 was already sold for 15000 Nok. Too bad. I will send you a PM when I receive the quote. Trox

Hi Sewingtec, Thanks, I need a binder for leather. I cannot find any feed dog or needle plate for my 345-H3 in your site. I have not chosen any yet; I am trying to find the support bracket, needle plate and feed dog. All the parts I need for a synchronized binding, if I cannot find those part I will make a needle plate and a feed dog from standard ones. The only part that is easy to find is the binder it self. Thanks, Trox

Adler 120- 8a feed with the front presser foot attached

Hi Gregg, Kochs Adler used that gear drive on several old models. On old class 4 and 5. And on an older flat bed saddler machine too (it is maybe a class 3, I do not know). I guess I was wrong about the feed on the Adler 20`s, the black one has a walking foot (see the presser foot bar without a foot on, the green one also have a hole for a extra presser bar) Those Adler 20 machines are not good on leather, to big and clumsy feet’s. Trox A13.pdf

Hi Catskin, Great, I love to see a picture of that machine. My hobby is to rebuild big German machines, but mostly cylinder bed machines that I can use in my leatherwork. Here is some pictures of two Adler 20`s, that was offered me as garden decorations. They did not have the right feed (no waking foot), but they both had high lift. To much rust, and long drive made me leaving them to die. They had that special hand wheel gear you might like to have on your machine. Trox.

Hi Catskin, Your Adler 20-2 is normal lift version sewing up to 16 mm. with needle 794 u. The Adler 20 subclasses; 20-6a, A 20-7 (7a), A 20-8a has a lift on 40 mm, using the Schmetz 1000 H needle system. The successor the class 120 in now again made by a German company; SL-Spezialnaehmaschinenbau Limbach GmbH & Co. KG. On license from Dürkopp Adler, together with the famous Adler class 30 shoe repair machine. The Adler 120-30 is a real monster machine, sewing up to 26 mm thick. However, it cost more than a new Mercedes Benz. http://www.sl-spezial.de/sl/index.php/company.html Watch and enjoy. Trox

Hi Sewingtec, Thanks a lot. The parts I need are for a synchronized binder, the feed dog and needle plate for the subclass H3-17/01. Dog: # 91-045 539-4 and the plate # 91-040 701|-4. A binder foot set, a binder swing bracket and a binder for leather. I have received some tips about a company in Hong Kong and some thing on EBay that I am currently checking out. I attach the Pfaff 345 subclass partlist (Are you Thomas from sew24.blogspot.com and Dürkopp Adler?) Thanks Trox kgi582aa.pdf

Tjenere Gong, We do not mind a good joke, we are also telling jokes about Swedes. However, I keep it out of the Forum and the web. Looks like you met a very greedy dealer. There is no reason for such high prices, or do you have import taxes on new sewing machines in Sweden? You will follow the EU prices and can buy the machine in all of Europe. Norway is an EFTA country and follows many of the EU rules and regulations. Nevertheless, you have to check with the Swedish custom about any import taxes. The DA 205-370 is a very good machine; it will sew the same thickness as the Juki 441. It is a more expensive machine, with superior quality and a very nice stitch. But there is not that easy to get aftermarket saddlers attachments for the Adler as it is for the 441 (the price is much higher). What are you going to use your machine for? If you want to use it on leather, it must be set up for it. You must change feed dog, sewing feet’s for smooth ones and maybe the needle plate too. You will need different needle plates, extra feet and guides. Buying this equipment in Norway will be very expensive, you can buy it from Cobra or Cowboy but that accessory are made for clone machines and may have to be modified to fit an Original Juki. Then again, it maybe will fit, I do not know. A clone machine like the Cowboy CB 4500 is already set up for the job on leather, with a foot lift on 27 mm. max sewing thickness at 22 mm. A Juki TSC 441 has a max foot lift on 20 mm. (the same as Adler 205-370) they will both sew about 16 to 17 mm. thick. Therefore, you see, it all depends of what you going to use it for. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb4500.html http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/leather_e/cat94/tsh411_tsn421_tsc441_tsu471.html http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?item=1 http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/triple-transport-machines/prod/1013/ http://www.olafnyby.net/Brochure/brochure2.htm The price on a tool has to be calculated down on the time you should use it, in about 5 years it maybe a new machine for sale that is much better. A price of a good clone is about 14000 NOK in USA. It is complete with every thing you need for the job. The modern Efka 1550, 600 W. will not need a speed reducer on thicknesses up to 16 mm. The older dc 1600 has 750 W. and will do that with out problems, but on thicker work, you may need one in addition. I have two Efka a dc 1600 and an older one. You have total control with those new Efka motors. I will be back with the quotes when I receive them. Trox

Thanks for your answer Bob, (345-H3-C6-LN ) You are right about almost all, but “N” stands for stitch length 6 mm not 4,5 mm. When the machine has only 4,5 mm stitch length it is marked with “4,5”. “C” stands for type C (not described any further) “L” for leather “6” stands for type of needle size a style of point. (What kind of needle, the part list does not tell). I found the partlist and the subclass part list on the web, but I still need the service manual. The machine comes from a closed down portfolio factory, they was making leather bags and such. I have gone over the machine, it is very good. No need for any new parts so far. The hook looks like new and every things seems tight. This is a medium duty machine, I have three big Adler’s for the heavy jobs. (A 5-27,a 204-64 and a 105-25) I am planning to trade them in and buy a Juki 441 or Adler 205-370 ( or a clone). The old machines do the job, but the triple feed is the best system. It is hard to get a clone like your Cowboy here in Norway, they only sell the Juki and Adler’s. I have been looking for a used medium size triple feed cylinder bed For a long time, I was lucky to find this. However, I cannot afford to break anything on it because of these spare parts prices. However, I believe there are aftermarket parts out there for this brand to? I know it is hooks and feet’s for sale, other parts I do not know of. Do you have anything for this machine? Trox

Thanks Bob, It is subclass for leather the "L" in the name. I have just checked the subclass part list and there is an other model with a bit differet fed dog and plate that is for binding. But you are right it must only go that way on a binding machine. I just started a new topic about that subject, I want to set up this machine for leather binding. And looking for parts for an syncro binder. I will just set the feed dog a bit lower, in level with the plate and see if that works better. Please see my other topic about binder for it. Thanks Trox

I just purchased a second hand Pfaff 345- H3-6C-LN I want to set up this machine for leather binding, and the best will be a synchronized leather binder. So far I spend 271 $ for the machine. (It was a bargain) 250 $ for a Cobra servomotor and a speed reducer. Some hours work, (cleaning, building and adjusting) Then, I asked my local Norwegian Pfaff dealer for the prices on Original Pfaff attachments and gotten totally blown away Here are the prices they quoted me: Binder for leather = 288, 71 $ Feed dog = 365, 65 $ Needle plate = 850 $ Attachment for fixing the binder (With rollers and guide for tape) = 404, 2 $ Total will be = 1638, 56 USD And I still need the binding foot set; I did not want to ask for the price, it was already way over my budget. My friend the Leather Guru told me to do the work by hand, but the must be an alternative to the original parts. This is a very common type of cylinder bed machine; I have seen many Chinese machines with the same arm. There must be a more reasonable priced option out there. Maybe some of our machine dealers have something for sale. The price for the Pfaff parts together with what I already spend will be 2160 $, for that price, I can buy a new Chinese binding cylinder bed machine. Anybody who has any experience with leather binding on a Cylinder bed machine or binding work in general. In advance Thanks Trox

I guess I am the only member with this very rare piece of machinery or maybe I have to changes my deodorant. Strange, this is one of the most common cylinder bed sewing machine model ever made, similar to Singer 153w, Adler 169, Cowboy 227R, Consew 227 R and many others. If anybody have some experience with a machine like this please answer my post. Trox

Hi, I just purchased an old Pfaff 345-H3-6C-LN sewing machine. I wonder if any of our members knows this machine. I know this is a machine made for leather because of the “L” in the subclass name. The feed dog is adjusted to high and it is stopping the feed motion, because it is just moving in the same level. It is not moving down under the needle plate on its way forward. When I am trying to adjust it to do so, I cannot find it has any feeding mechanism. Is this supposed to be like this? Because it is a leather model? Should it just be lowered in level with the needle plate to move back and forth in the same level? I do not have any service manual, if anybody have one to share, (or for a similar model in an other brand) I be grateful for all help. In advance Thanks. Trox