Trox

Hi, Bees wax and thread lubricant has two different missions, I also have lube pots on my four heavy stitchers (Adler’s 5, 204, 105 and my TSC 441 machine) The only one of my machine who really gets a smoking hot needle is my 441 clone, this machine needs to cool down the needle or else the thread melts. This is done by reducing the thread friction by oil or silicone thread lube. Bees wax for hand sewing has an other mission, to help closing and protecting the stitches. On early leather sewing machines, they had heated wax apparatus just for this purpose. I have bought old sewing machines that do not turn because of old hardened grease, bees wax hardens fast. It will not only mess up your tension disc, it will mess up the shuttle and all related parts too. It has to be clean out after sewing, or warmed up by a flame to get liquid again. Linen thread is a very good thread for sewing machines, very soft. However, with beeswax it will stick to your shuttle causing stitch errors. I would not try that with my machines, I use only white sewing machine oil in them. Just my 2 cents Trox

Thanks guys, Kevin, with “Anglaise” I guess you meant the tool description, I be happy to. It is a Griffe à molette, a French pricking wheel. This one has four different wheels stored in the brass bulb. They have angled teeth numbered by the stitches per inch. Wheels are available from four to nineteen stitches per inch, from Vergez Blanchard. This one has a fence, an adjustable edge guide. These are normally made by Blanchard or some other French toolmaker like G. Lutz or G. Krempp, Paris (today only from Blanchard). However, this is from a rare German maker Melzer & Feller. I recently bought this from EBay and I did some goggling on the maker. The only other things I found from this maker; was parade daggers for German WW2 SS and SA soldiers. Nevertheless, I have a small (all metal and rosewood shafts) saddlers hammer, I think is from this maker. I cannot read the entire letter because of its wear, so I cannot be sure. I think this is a bit nicer made than the new ones from Blanchard, then again all older tools is. Trox

Hi Edvin Not two times, it has to go one and a half time around second tension disc. I have seen pictures off machines with wax apparatus, heated with gas to melt the wax. If you use waxed thread, your machines will be full of wax that hardens and jams up your machine. Then you have to warm it up with the gas heater every morning to get it to sew. I have no experience with use of waxed thread, and I would not use it in any of my machines. There are other kinds of machine they used wax in, I never seen it in a lockstitch machine. There are some pinned topics in this forum about thread and needle sizes, read them, they will answer your questions. Here are some 45K machines Trox http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-singers/45k.htm

Hi Jim, although I think you meant to quote Edwin and not me. I agree with you Jim, this are all issues practice and more practice will solve. Thanks Trox

Thank you Ralph, I know you have a nice collection; I do have more of them too. I hope you have a long happy life, and enjoy of your tools for years to come. Your friend Tor

The style and looks of a leather tool might not be as important as the functions of it. However, the old French leather tools have it both. It feels real good just holding them and feeling good inspires me to do the job well too. To me it is a love affair. Tool crazy

Thank you Steve and Tom in the house of the Cobra, mod recieved and motor works very well. Happy sewing. Trox

Stone wheel for crome tan leather, and thin upholstry type of leather. Milled steel wheel for veg tan and thick leather. Trox And Thank you Cobra Tom for the motor mod, received it two day ago and it now works great. Trox

Hi, First of all, throw away all old needles. Buy new needles the right system, is it 328? It comes in different types of leather cutting points, however if you want to back tack use spear pointed. The leather needles often cut your thread when back tacking (the reverse locking stitch) Old needles are no good, they might look all right and still cause a stitch error. Old thread can also cause frying or be to stiff for the machine to handle. Linen thread should work well, save it for later when you know your machine. Buy some polyester thread Aman Serafil or Coats Gral, (those will work well for your machine) bonded nylon will also work. Sizes metric (like we use in Europe) Tkt 20, 15 and 10 (10 is the thickest) Needles 160, 180, 200 and 230. Those will cover the thread sizes I suggested. When you have no old stuff that can cause a miss stitch, thread your machine right. Look at Toledo (Cowboy) sewing machines home page. You will find a video on threading the Cowboy 4500, (and is the same machine as a Cowboy 2500, GA 5-1 or Ferdco Baby Bull) yours threads the same way. I see a mistake in your threading, after the last top tension disc. The thread has to go directly from the pin to the take up spring. Not over the take up spring stop as it does now. It looks like you use the wrong needle size for the thread too; the relation has to be right. For a tkt 15 (metric) you can use a 180 needle, Tkt 10 a 200 to 230 needle (size Nm 230 = 2, 3 mm tick). Add some thread tension, you must adjust top and bottom thread tension right. The thread loop has to be in the middle of the material, and your stitches should be tighter. Often old shuttles have bad tension springs and work best with thicker thread. Check your bobbin tension spring, if necessary change it (take it of and look for grooves in the springs backside). Did you remember to thread your thread one and a half time around the last (upper) tension disc? To eliminate other causes for stitching errors, take this above mention steps. If you have manual read it, if not find one for a similar machine or ask for one in the forum. It should be something for this machine; it has been the most used saddler machine for half a century. Here is a Singer 45 clone machine threading video You can look at manuals for this machine; it is the same as yours. Try this, and search the LW forum base for related topics about thread tension and so on. Remember to hold your thread end when you start sewing, if not you will have a backlash in the shuttle. Good luck with your new machine.Trox

Thank you Bruce, I am aware of your fine Blanchard Griffe a Molette`s (French Pricking wheels). Most people do not know what they cost to buy new; otherwise, you would not still have them. The reason I did not buy one is that I was looking for one with a fence (guide). Yesterday I was lucky to win this one on EBay: This is made of a rare German maker, Melzer & Feller. I googled him to find out he also made parade daggers for the German WW2 SS and SA. I guess every toolmaker had to make weapons during the war. I might have seen you have a saddler or carpet hammer of the same maker? Anyway, this Pricking wheel also has four wheels, which number stitches per inch I do not know yet. Trox

Not only a Cobra problem. Remember this is not only a Cobra motor problem; every other similar Chinese brushless motor has this same speed control. Nevertheless, it is only Cobra who has offered their customer a mod. A very clever member was the one who made this solution. Nevertheless, Cobra responded to the constructive criticism without hesitation and offered this mod. Many big companies have something to learn from Cobra about customer service. Great job. About servomotor and speed control. On more expensive servo motor systems like my new digital Efka 1550, they use an analog speed control. This features 60 speed steps and gives a great low speed control. I guess the analog signals then am transformed in to digitals, it has to be. I do not know much about electronics, I do know the analog servo motors had good speed control, thought. The high end pro servo motor systems are still only made by the German and Japanese companies, and therefore high priced. However, the Italian company Ocel Moretti, famous for their fine clutch motors has made this low price alternative to Efka and Ho Sing. http://www.ocelmoretti.com/ocel/en/node/290 . This is a brushless servo motor system with needle position, motor alternatives is on 400 or 550 watt. This system is not strong enough for the big stitchers like the TSC 441 and DA 205-370 machines (without a speed reducer). However, for the upholstery class machines is should work fine. I have not tested it myself; I got this information from the Norwegian Dürkopp Adler Agent. The Ocel Moretti Company has made motors for the sewing industry since 1957, I trust the will not sell any motor system that will not work well. The system is about half the price of the Efka 1550 and Ho Sing HVP 70 systems. If anybody has this system or have tested it, please let us know. I will once again give Credit to Steve and Tom in Cobra Leather machines, for their excellent customer service. Thanks Trox

Hi, They are not the same, but do the same job. They both make angled stitch marks in your leather. As the name indicates a pricking wheel has a carriage. The pricking irons are a toothed iron chisel that has to be hit by a maul. They come in different sizes, and stitches per inch. Irons make a clearer impact, wheels a more consistent seam mark. With some wheels, you need to wet (case) your leather first to get a clear impressions. Some brands like French Vergez Blanchard make a huge shoulder pricking wheel. This have a very long shaft, you can lean your shoulder on to get more pressure and a better impression. Those big Blanchard’s are called “Griffe à molette”. They come with four different wheels that are stored in the top of the shaft, in a small brass ball. Those are pretty expensive. Joseph Dixon, an English toolmaker is also making those huge shoulder wheel frames, together with irons and normal wheel carriages as well. The most expensive ones are the Griffe a molette with a adjustable guide, those are about 270 $ bought in France http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/liste_produits.cfm?type=15&code_lg=lg_fr&num=2 http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products.asp?tfsearch=pricking+wheels&type=1&search.x=0&search.y=0 A good US source for used quality pricking wheel is Bruce Johnson, he is a LW member and dealer of used leather tools. His tools are cleaned up and ready to use. http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/leather-stitch-markers-stitch-groovers-and-channelers/ Both Blanchard and Dixon makes various of pricking irons, in different sizes and width. CS Osborne makes three different sizes 6, 7 and 8 cuts per inch. Trox

Sorry James, I forgot the link http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37299&st=15 post # 27 You must send them an order on email, you can use any of those guide, but the KG 876 is the best one. You need the bracket KB 267. Ask for Mr. Bosco Ko. They will prosess your order, answer questions, send pic`s etc. You can pay with Paypal. No online ordering, but they will send you the prices. They have fast service and very nice prices. Trox

Thank you Tom, That is great news:specool: Trox

Here is pic of the guide install on my DA 267-373 Trox

Hi James, Mail them and ask for Bosco Ko, http://www.kwokhing.com/da/. You can use feets from the following DA machines; 67,68,69, 167, 168, 268 and 269. The 467 and 767 uses an other foot. Prices from 12 to 23 $ for high tech sewing solutions. Order a drop down guide wile you at it, 25 $. It installes in the 267`s already made holes. The suspending guide KG 867 is the best one, you need the bracket KB 267 to fix it, you will wonder how you could do without it ( roller and straight guide is included. The attachments for suspending guides fits every of their guides). I would prefer the Juki TSC 441 ore a clone, half the price and more machine. It has a longer arm, sews thicker and most important; you have much more saddlers accessories awailable. I have one now, great machine with a nice stitch. good luck trox

I just set my 441 machine up for leather work, just feets and the feed dog. You can buy this from the US and screw in a couple off screws. The Juki is the real thing, the clone will do the same job and sew a bit thicker.

Kwokhing.com, send them an email with your order, unbeatable prices.

Hi, It is not only those functions you are paying for, it also have a needle position servo motor. This gives you total control of the machine, stitch-by-stitch, needle stops down, and heeling the pedal, it stops up. This equipment worth more than 1000 $ new. The other has a clutch motor; if you are not experienced with the clutch motor, you will not be able to control it. It will be way to fast for you, as a result, you have to change the motor later. There are many cheap Chinese servomotors on the marked, compared to this machines motor they are all toys. You will maybe not need an auto reverse and thread trimmer, however, you will not regret your choice of motor. It is definitely worth extra money. Trox

Hi James, I had to go and have a look in the machines needle drawer. I have used mine with up to 180 needle. This kind of machine (almost every kind sewing machine) works best when the distance between the needle and the shuttle is as small as possible without hitting each other. This distance changes with the needle size. When the gap (distance) is too big, the hook will miss the tread loop, causing a missed stitch. Too small, the needle will hit the hook. When Dürkopp Adler writes about a 140 needle, this is the default needle the machine is adjusted with (and for). Production machines might use the same needle size all the time; we have to use several on ours. My machine works fine with needles from 100 to 160 (metric). It will also take size 90 and 180, but that is minimum and maximum. I can set this range of needle sizes higher or lower by adjusting the needle hook distance. However, there are other factors that limit's the needle size upwards, like the hole in the feed dog, needle plate and so on. Same the other way, a too thin needle will bend and cause skipped stitches, and so on. Bla bla bla… a lot of technical stuff. It will do 207, but that is maximum, (without any modifying) this is an upholstery class machine. If you look for a machine for sewing 207 all the time, you must choose a heavier rating flatbed machine. Machines with vertical hook are Juki LG 158, Singer 144, Adler 767 (up to 346), 867 M type (up to 346) or 221. Shuttle hook machines: Juki TNU 243, TU 273, Adler 204-370 or similar Chinese clones. Hope this helps. Trox

Nice machine, it is an Adler 205-25 or 205-8025 with top and bottom feed no reverse. The top and bottom feeds are adjusted separately for ruffling work. It must not be mistaken for being an Adler 205-370 compound triple feed. This machine is made for sewing moccasins. I hate to ruin your day, but that is why they are sold so much cheaper than the 205-370. You can use it as a bottom feed (that mark up the underside of your leather) or a top feed (that mark up the top of your leather). If you use both feeds together, you must fine-tune the two stitch length adjustments until they feed to the same length. It is possible to make it in to a compound double feed machine, by joining the two feed adjustments together. I do not know how they do it, and for all I know it is already modified this way. When it comes to sewing leather, it will be comparable with the Ferdco 440 Baby bull or similar. You can have reverse, but only when you use the bottom feed alone. If you want to know how to do this, Pls. let me know. I hope you were aware of this information before you purchased this machine. Good luck Trox

Those are binder plates for a Pfaff 335, latest model. Write an email to Mr. Bosco Ko, Kwokhing, and ask what plates they have for your machine. I am sure they do not have a stirrup plate, perhaps a binder plate.

Hi James, I do not know your reason for changing out your 211, but the Adler and the 211 is in the same class of machines. I do not think the Adler can do any more than the 211; it is a smoother running machine, thought. If you need a more modern design machine, you should look for a DA (Dürkopp Adler) 467, 767. Did you not see the DA 767 machine I tipped you about? Those above mention machines have a more modern design. Alternating (presser’s height over the material) stroke is adjustable with a wheel dial on the top, longer stitch length (10 -11 mm.) XXL vertical hook, heavier thread sizes too. Preferred machines for pro upholstery works in Europe. That 767 on EBay was very cheap, it is normally the most expensive used machine of its kind. About spare part prices, DA parts are not more expensive than others in Europe, the Pfaff spare parts are the most expensive everywhere. Living in the US, maybe the Juki is a good choice of machine. However, spare parts will not be of any concern to you with the Adler, those machines are build for production, to run 8-hour non-stop every day. The parts who will wear out first with normal use is the shuttle, those parts can be bought aftermarket if you want too. I know you have an Adler 105-64 in addition to the 211. Why not fixing up your 211, change the shuttle and have it serviced. Then buy your self a triple feed small cylinderarm machine, class Pfaff 335 or Adler 169, in a Chinese version. This way you will cover more sewing tasks. That machine can also be used with a small add on table to act as a flat bed. If your 211 is starting to act badly, a new shuttle hook will normally fix most of the issues. Trox

I have Adler 267-373 with Efka dc 1600. I have sewen 11 mm thick belt leather with thread Nm tkt 15 (tex 180) top and bottom on mine machine. This was to test it, normally I never use this machine with any thicker thread than 138, (for any heavier thread I use my 441). It is a upholstry class, large vertical hook, triple feed machine. It is a very fine machine, I am very happy with mine. This machine is sold new by Dürkopp Adler dealers, you can read about in their web page. Weavers sells it and have a demo video of it on their site. Trox

Here is another find for you Doug. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGLE-NEEDLE-SEWING-MACHINE-MEDIUM-ROLLER-FOOT-12265-/320767247788?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aaf37c5ac This will fit your 45K, I paid 40 $ for a very simmilar roller foot of a dealer, so this is a bargain.