Trox

Hi, Yes you can melt the thread ends and hammer it flat when its hot. Or you can buy a special thread burner. Or you can leave long ends, attach sewing needles and stitch outside the edge several times in the first hole, (the same in the end). It called finishing by hand, you will See this technique on old harness work (I use this technique myself). On leather you must hammer the seam to close the leather around the thread ( if you wet the leather before hammering it, you get rid of the marks left by the 29K feeding foot too). Remember to hold your thread ends when you start the sewing. Good luck Trox

Hi, Read the pinned topic " neat trick for needle sizing" top site here. Metric size 10 equal to Tex 270, and if thats a 17 singer needle it equals to metric size 105. I am surprised if you even could get that thread true the needle eye. You need a 200 needle for that thread (a 180 minimum), twice as big. I do not think your Sunstar takes that big needle sizes. However, you have not told anybody what kind of machine you have, so thats possible for all I know.

I always measures my needles with a caliper, a metric size 120 is 1,2 mm in diameter, a 90 is 0,9 mm and so on. For a Singer size system use a conversation chart on internet.

Hi Greg, I was wondering about the same thing. It will not make it any easier that Ferdco now is closed.

Normally not, however you can build the DA 267 in to a two needle with a special kit. Both needles will then use the same bobbin thread, so it will not become a true 2 needle machine. I think http://www.kwokhing.com/da/ have this kit, or It is available from Dürkopp Adler. Trox

Hi DJ, Thats a very nice looking rounder, your husband did a good job there. I will agree with Dirtclod metal works much better than hardwood. I to tried to make Stohlmans hardwood rounder with no success. DJ, what kind of soap are you using when you soak your reins? I have used green dish washer soap before and I am now trying with Fibings glycerin saddle soap. I am often making round dog collars with hidden stitches (I am doing one as we speak) and I have made my self a pretty good tool for the rounding. I am using steel eye bolts with wooden handles (see pic). I hold the tool with my left hand and pull the rein back and forth with my other hand. As the reins is getting a rounder shape I am twisting/angling the tool so the diameter of the eye bolt gets smaller. These bolts are perfect for the job. I have several eye bolts in different sizes, however I use only one or two sizes for rounding the strap, it works well. (you can also fix the tool in a vice to free your hands of course) DJ, a last question. I have often wondering about a way to sew these reins on a machine. When you sew these on your Pearson does it make a slit or a groove for hiding the stitches. I do not think a groove will work well for me, it will leave visible marks. I would very much like to see that Person attachment, do you think it is possible to do the same job on a 441 lock stitch machine. I would love to see a picture of that attachment. In advance thanks. Trox

I have a German DA 267-373 with Efka DC 1600 still in new condition, I is a dream to use. However I know the Pfaff 1245 is a very good machine too. I have mostly heavy Adler machines and I love them. However, I got a small Pfaff 345 (triple feed cylinder bed) I am using. It is old but still very good. Old Pfaff machines are very well made, I have never seen better steel quality in plates and feet`s. The feet`s are so hard it is almost impossible to alter them, (it will take more time anyway) It made like a Swiss watch. Like Seweng told you the Pfaff spare part prices are extremely high, thats because they are hand made in Germany. Here in Europe Pfaff part cost about the double of DA parts. Example from Norway, a high priced country ; a binding needle plate for my Pfaff 345 costs 750,- euro (960,- $). A needle plate for my Adler 204 costs 299,-Euro ( 382,- $) You can get aftermarket parts like feet`s, shuttles and plates from Kwokhing.com to very good prices.

Well what can I say sewing is not rocket science

Yes, thats not bad. Try them out, see who suit you best. The Pfaff will be a bit more expensive than the DA new. So if the Adler is newer, check the motors. A clutch motor is of no value even new. A Efka position motor will cost you 900 Euros new. Check motors and extras.

Thanks for that info Wis, I guess that would be a problem yes. A problem NASA should have thought about before buying the machine with your tax dollars. It is a real nice machine anyway, it makes me sad that we lost Ferdco. They was really innovating machines builders.

Yes, customer support is the European sewing motor companies only way to compete with China. (They are still far ahead on technology and quality) Efka told me, it does not matter from who or where you bought your motor, If it is a Efka it is our job to help you until your machine works the way you want it to do. And they did so true Skype video call. I did not expect that kind of service, it was a pleasant surprise. The German dealer I bought it from gave me the wrong control box, it was for a Dürkopp Adler instead of a Juki as I needed. These new motors are computers, they recognize the machine automatically and normally set up them self. With the wrong controller it did not work, and no help from the dealer. I am glad I called the manufacturer before sent it back to Germany, they programmed it true Skype and sewn it off. Thank you Manfred in Efka About the Pfaff 1445, I believe that was the top of the line Pfaff flat bed triple feed production machine in the upholstery class. High speed, automatic and self oiling, it compares to the DA 767 and Dürkopp N 291. What the famous Pfaff 1245 can do at lower speed, this machine can do in a factory setting at high speed. Thats why you often will find these machines second hand with air pneumatic like; thread trimmer, needle cooling, back-tacking, presser-foot lift and more. They was preferred for factories, when small workshops would choose the 1245 with fewer automatics. You have to check hook and needle bar for wear, get a small (silent) air compressor that can deliver 6 to 8 bar pressure and hook it up. Good luck Trox

This Ferdco machine is currently for sale on EBay and is called a pro 4000 serial # 001. http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1438.l2648 This machine was made for the aerospace industry and is one of a kind machine. They claim it capable to handle materials up to 3 inch thickness. It looks like a triple feed lock stitch machine with a monster needle. It has the same Efka motor as I use on my 441, a DC 1550 (they have listed the control box number only in the add). If you look closely, (if you are interested monster sewing machines as I am) you will see the motors position head(synchronizer) is located on the speed reducer, not at the machines hand-wheel as they usually is. This is the way to do it if you need a speed reducer in addition to this powerful motor. (Efka Dc 1550 has 8 Nm and up to 1800 watt of power) On older motors the machines position was adjusted in the position head, thats why it was placed on the hand-wheel. On the new motors the position heads only function is to calculate belt slippage. Motors mounted in direct drive do not need it. The best way to mount a modern mini servo on a saddler machine like the 441, is to use a toothed belt like they use on Harley Davidson custom bikes. This way you will eliminate all belt slippage. Do it like my Swedish friend has done with his Cobra class 4, only use a toothed belt and pulleys instead . Anyway, if somebody needs a real monster machine, start bidding now.

The Efka variostop motors are electronically clutch position motors with a 12 step speed control. Clutch and brake are electronically controlled. The control box can also control a lot of extra air pneumatics (or solenoids) like presserfot lift, back tacking etc, If your machine has those extras it need compressed air to operate. This is a old system, Efka was first on developing these kind of motors, your control box might be from the 1980`s. As Eric told you you can easily update your system with a new Efka DC 1550. That is a very good motor, I use one on my 441 clone and I am very happy with it. I also have a couple of other Efka`s, one is a old variostop similar to yours. It still works fine. http://www.efka.net/ have a download section on manuals and sell spare parts. They have excellent customer service, on my latest motor I got help true video call until my motor setup was complete. Thats something you never will receive from China, you pay a Little more to get the best of everything.

Hi, The DA 267-373 is a triple feed single needle (273 is a two needle version). It is a good basic machine; I have one myself and am very happy with it. It will take up to TKT 15 (maybe TKT 10 on top, as Ken already has told you. I have never tried since I have heavier machines and do not need to) The Pfaff 1245 is also a very good machine, since I do not know the numbers behind 1245, I cannot tell you more about it. It is as heavy as the DA and maybe a bit stronger too (both up 10 to 11 mm thick material). Here in Norway it is a very popular choice for upholstery. The Pfaff spare part prices are more expensive than DA parts here in Europe. The most important parts like hooks, plates and feet’s can be bought after marked. This is like choosing between a Mercedes and a BMW, they both are very good. Therefore, you must look for the age of the machine (paint color and subclass # can tell). Check hook and needle bar for wear. Look for extras like a needle position servomotor etc. Good luck.

They are both in the same class (upholstry class sewing machines) and will do the same. To compare them I need the sub class numbers on both. (the number behinde 267 and 1245). Picture and price will also help. Thanks Trox

Hi Shawn, There are several different Necchi machines from home machine to Adler 105 and Singer 45 copies. Its very hard to tell value of something we have not seen. You have to upload a picture. Thanks Trox

Bobbin winding looks simple, but can be a pain in the...... Bobbin winders and their thread guides are different from machine to machine. On some winders the thread tend to jump out of the tension disk and mess up the winding. To prevent this from happening I let the thread go one time around the disk (instead of just right true it). It is important to have the right tension, if you wind it to tight it give you a uneven bobbin tension (and make a mess, the same happens if its to loose too). I have to loosen up the tension a bit, but get a more consistent woven bobbin this way. It is important to have the thread rack`s thread guide directly in center over the spool. It is just as important here as it is for the machines top thread . Otherwise it will pull thread unevenly of the spool and cause problems. You have to test your winder, give it different speeds and conditions, brake the thread with you fingers etc. to test it. This way you will see how it acts and make your improvements.

It looks more like some kind of shoe sole sewing machine, However, the pictures are still not detailed enough to tell. Give us a detailed pic of the operating parts. Thanks

Hi Ron, I see he lives in New Jersey, he might not have electricity or Internet connection. Or how is the situation in that area now? What kind of new triple feed small arm machines do you sell Ron? equivalent to the Adler 69 or Pfaff 335. Thanks Trox

lots of silicone lube and a half ton jack

Thats true Bob, although its mostly used for spareparts and bobbin winding

Thanks Greg, Thats true it is not avaiable here in Norway anymore. However, I see that Weaver still sell them new and some other US dealers as well. I guess they still have some left in stock.

Your welcome, there are a free operating manual there as well, I have it in my PC. However, I did not find it when I searched for it. I found this one on Singerco.com industrial download http://parts.singerco.com/ http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/111W152_W153_W154_W155.pdf This manual has the hook timing and other adjustments as well. Maybe you already have it. Good luck Trox

Hi, Pfaff are good machines,however it has expensive spare parts. Chinese sewing machine production works like the car industry, no ones produce all parts them self. They buy part from other contractors and assembly the machine. There are several different qualities of parts, companies like Pfaff and Dürkopp Adler uses the best quality. They also have support and spare parts, clones often uses the original copied machine brand for spare parts. Buying a clone be sure it has support, somebody that stand behind their product as our member dealers of clones do. Cobra, Cowboy and Tecksew sewing machines. Clones that comes in a box might need adjustment, changing of parts and several hours of work. About the machines in your list I have a older Pfaff 345 H3 (vertical hook, thicker arm, or else the same machine) very happy with it. Pfaff are very good machines H4 is the heaviest subclass of the 335, H3 is also good. Check the H number, H1 and H2 will not sew thick enough or take thick thread. You are located in the USA where prices on German sewing machine are high, you might also look at the Juki small arm, it might be available to a better price. I think the prices on those rebuilt Pfaff`s was a bit high, check this site to compare http://www.miamisewi...ials/canvas.htm They have several 335`s for sale to a better price. The Adler 69 is a good machine too, it came first time in 1955 and its still available new some places (name changes in 1990 from Adler to Dürkopp Adler) It is possible to check its age. I do not know the Supreme. I think the reliable is a decent clone, however you must buy one that is sewn off with support. Good luck Trox

Hi Tom, I let Bob and Eric help you with this Singer, I have mostly Adler machines my self. I had a Singer 144W-305 (30 inch arm) very similar to your 111W, only bigger. However the adjustments is the same on them. Just remember when you have a timing issue like this it a reason for it. Most of the times its because of thread that jams in the hook. You must always remove the bobbin house and check for thread pieces underneath, clean it out and oil it. The machine has a clutch that protects the hook when it jams, the clutch might fail because of rust and dirt. Causing the drive belt to jump over some teeth. Or be hard to reset when its old. Anyway if you need a good service manual here is a link to a free E book, US army manual on several machine they used included yours. It might help you. http://books.google.com.au/books/about/Organizational_and_field_maintenance_man.html?id=jCUYAAAAYAAJ Good luck