Trox

Hallo Bert, Wiz has posted about problems with black thread, it usually is recolored leftovers from other colors. I always pack my thread cones in plastic to keep it from drying out. Fibings liquid saddle soap will help to restore some moister in to it again. Nevertheless, thread is fresh ware. new needles and fresh threads takes care of most stitching errors. You might find the pinned topic about http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13283 needle sizing useful too. By the way, I lived some years in Antwerp not to far from Bert (if thats where you live). I loved Belgium, the only thing I did not like was the winter weather. I prefer dry cold snow before rain and fog, and I missed the Norwegian nature too. It is almost twenty years since I have been there, I got to go to visit you soon. Good luck to you. Tot ziens, Goedenavond. Tor

On My Efka motor I can program a stitch counter if I want to. And since I almost always use the same stitch length I can find out when the bobbin is low on thread. setting up some kind of alarm warning for it is possible. However, this is not anything I would use my time on. I have a "healthy" routine in checking the bobbins before sewing, and is it below a 30 % I change it for a full one. I do not trow the thread away, I save it for a small project later. I have a lot of spare bobbins, I can also use the ones for my Adler 204 who has the same shuttle. You better buy some extra bobbins, it gives you a better "thread economy". Thanks Tor

Hi, I see this machine is a binding machine, the feed dog is only moving back and forth. The special needle plate is designed to attach a rod to the feed dog that again drives a synchronized binder (it also have binding feet's). You can buy a regular feet's, needle plate and feed dog to use it without the binder. From Juki or Kwokhing.com (they sell it cheap, send them an email). For use without binder, lower the feed dog to under the needle plate level ( approx 0,5 to 1 mm under the plate) or else it will disturb your feeding. I do not know much about this machine other that it uses thin thread, it is not designed for heavy threads (over tkt 40 or tex 69) I am not sure about the exact specs, go to the leaflets (data sheet) on Juki web site to have a look. (If you do not know what a binding machine is, try youtube leather binding) Good luck Tor

OK Darren, they are already in there. If they are designed to be operated by a system servo they will normally not be on more than 24 V DC (from 5 to 24 V DC) in some cases 30V DC. This is the maximum out power from a normal control box I believe. I think you will see it if it is a AC solenoid, then it has a control cables from the motor in addition to the power supply from the 110/220 v socket. I do not know, I use air. They should have the operating power and markings on them, or some kind of number you can google to see the data sheet on them. Darren, What is written on them?

You are welcome Jim, snakker du Norsk? One of the best solutions to the speed problem ( and alternative to a servo motor) is to use a 3 phase clutch/ or regular AC motor with a frequency converter. This little "magic" box converts 3 phase to single phase current and let you control all parameters on the motor. Like speed, torque, start and stop time etc. It lets you limit the motors top speed; you can go as slow as you want and still have maximum torque. You can attach a potentiometer (like a pedal) and control it like a servo motor. I have used this solution on several machines, and the speed control is better than on any servo motor you can buy. with this "box" you can use any kind of 3 phase AC motor, the pot meter replace the clutch. When servo motors is a "new" thing in the sewing machine world, the industrial world has moved away from it and uses mostly this system. They can hook these boxes to their computers and remotely control the motors true the internet. I got a pair of these for free from my brother who works in the electro business. The prices varies from make and capabilities, from 60 $ and up, I know they are cheaper in the US than where I live. You need one that can handle the ampere of the motor, the price follows the ampere up-wards. So you do not want to use more motor than you need to, three phase motors have more torque than single phase too. A 750 watt will power most harness stitcher's, then hook up three cables and you are ready to go. Here is what these boxes look like, they are easy to hook up. However you must read the instructions for programming the parameters on it. If anybody want to know how it works, send me a PM and I can give you a link to a video of my old Adler class 5 with this system. I also uses this kind of box on my skiving and clicking machines who both are tree phase (when I only have single phase current in my work shop). However, only for converting the current, I do not need to control the speed of these. Thanks Tor

Hi Jim, I feel your pain, it goes as a runaway train. The German Efka will take care of your problems. If thats a bit over budget; If the motor is digital it probably uses a light switch on the speed control. Here its how a member made a mod for them http://www.swflholst...paper-gradient/ Search the this forum for more stuff about the Chinese digital servo speed control mod. Regardless of brand, if its Chinese and look the same on the outside, its also the same inside. Strange? LOL. Good luck Tor

Hi, I use serafil on all my machines (Adler class 5, cl. 204, cl. 105, 441 clone and 29K together with triple feed DA and Pfaff upholstery class machines too) You must have the thread guide on top of spool in center of spool, thread the thread several times true the thread pin guide (top machine head) and true a lube pot if you have this. All of this take the "twink" out of the thread, this is the same with all threads. I have other threads too, in my experience Serafil preform very well. I guess compared to bonded nylon, polyester has to be taken extra care so it do not twist. It is softer and has more fiber volume than bonded Nylon. However, my big Adler's do not like bonded nylon much. However they love Serafil. Look at the threading tips of the Cowboy 4500 by Bob Kowar, thread it like that and you will not have any problems ( if still problems add some turns on the thread pin). As long as your threads is not old, or old and black in color; then use Fibings liquid glycerin saddle soap on the thread spools. Good luck Thanks Tor (aka Trox)

Thats a big, strong and good machine. It is based on the construction of the Adler 220 and Singer 144W machine. It can be used to sew upholstery leather and pretty thick materials with heavy threads ( It will handle tex 400 without problems). It has a XXL vertical hook. In the old times they used these machines to sew car panels; sewing leather on wooden panels true the wood. It is a very expensive machine, you can place a add in our for sale section. Describe subclass number and motor data, add some pictures or a video, thats a good way to attract attention to it (link to youtube etc). Good luck Tor

Hello Darren, I do not know the machine type so I am speaking of leather sewing and upholstery machines in general. For thread cutting you can use a electrical Dc solenoid. On the foot-lift you need more power and the DC valves are getting very big. You must use it together with the machines foot-lifts exchange rods to make it stronger. Or the best solution is to use air pneumatic cylinders, they are much stronger compared to size. If I was to use a DC solenoid for my 441 foot lift, it had to be as big as a start motor for a Mack truck. Thats why most use air add ons on things like that, much cheaper too. Most already have a air compressor in their workshop too, then buy some waves, some hose, and air cylinders. Most compressors already have a reduction valve on it. You can use manual or electrical switches to activate them if you do not have a system motor. Good luck Tor

I paid about 800 dollars (the Norwegian krone; NOK is very high against the dollars) for my Efka DC 1550 (with DA (AB) 321 control and position head) motor included tax and shipping from Germany. In Norway it costs 1138,- $, I saved some money. However, I regret not buying it here, it would have saved me some trouble setting it up. Because the German dealer sent me the wrong motor control; an control box for a the Adler 205 machine instead of a universal model who can be set up for any machine. The Norwegian Efka dealer still gave me some support. Nevertheless, I had to call Efka in Germany to get help on setting up the Adler control for my 441. And when I did; I understood what customer supports meant. They called me back on Skype video phone and used about half a working day setting it up with me. They told me; "no matter where you bought your motor, as long as it reads EFKA on it, its our job to help you until your machine sews like you want it to". Try calling China to get any support there. I guess customer support is the only way western companies can compete against the Chinese, together with quality of course. The Chinese quality is improving all the time, on the support bit they still have a long way to go. I have three Efka motors, the oldest is from the 1980`ties and still works like a champ. The Efka company was the first who came with this kind of motors with needle position. It is a electronic controlled clutch motor, with electro brake and clutch; it has 12 steps of speed on the pedal. Then I have the DC 1600; who is a servo motor with needle position and all possibilities, a very good motor. I use it on my DA 267-373 machine (triple feed upholstery class machine). It is the system who now is replaced by the latest DC 1500 and 1550 mini servo motors. Never any problems, a dream to work on, I am very pleased with it. The latest DC 1500 and DC1550 mini servo motors (with control box of choice, I have the AB (DA) 321 and Dc 1550). It has up to 8 Nm torque and up to 1800 Watts of power. It is designed to be strong enough for any sewing machine, without the use of a reduction gear (speed reducer). I had a speed reducer on my 441 from before, Efka told me to remove it and told me about some parameters to increase the power if necessary. I use only half of its power on my 441 (with 16 1/2 inch arm), thats more than enough. Enough about technical specs and back to the economical sides. If you want a needle position motor for a harness stitcher you must pay about 500 $ for a Chinese made one. I addition you want a speed reducer to better control and add torque to it. Its from 90 to 200 $ depended of make/quality. Then you will be dangerously close to my 800 dollars and have much less power, performance, quality, support and so on. I think you understand what I am saying. Then calculate price against the years you are planning to use it, the Efka will work for the next 20 years. With the Chinese, nobody knows. Then you will cut in production time, out of service time, waiting for new parts time....etc. with the EFKA. If you ask me if I think it is expensive; NO Sir; I do not understand what you are talking about. Ha Ha, I think it is cheap, very cheap, in fact it makes money for me; that is the answer I will give you (No I do not work for Efka, I am just one of their happy customers) Thanks Tor

Hi Billymac, I had to do the same thing to my 441 clone, not because I wanted to switch side but moving the pedals further apart. The pedals was to close to each other, I was occasionally hitting the motor pedal when I was using the foot lift. Having a Efka needle position motor a small hit on the pedal starts a full revolution of the machine (a extra stitch). I used a brass roller in a similar way because the chain got a bad angle, the foot pedal is still pretty hard to press down. Now I am building a air foot-lift system on it. The foot lift will now be on full heel back of the motor pedal. ( I am using the inbuilt Efka switch for it) Two steps on heel back, first is needle up and full is presser foot up. I thought about a knee switch, however they are pretty expensive. If I do not like the heel-back option I can buy one later. I will post about it when I am done building it up. Tor

Hi Cris, I too use a lot of Blanchard tools and a French clamp like in the video. I do sew the saddle stitch like in the video. However, I use a very sharp diamond (high polished) awl. I use a pricking wheel to mark my stitches and gouge a stitching line with a grooving tool (grooving compass or other tool). I use # 0 and #1 harness needles with blunt points and both Barbour linen or braided nylon thread. I advice you to buy Al Stohlmans " the art of hand sewing leather". This is the best book for learning to sew a proper saddle stitch. Very good instructions and drawings by the Grand old master of leather work. No other way to learn this the right way from a book. The book is a paperback and can be bought on Amazon or Tandy/local leather craft supplier. You need this book, it will take care of the sewing problems you have now. The uniform stitch, where the awl is placed and where it has to come out on the back side etc. How to hold the awl, needles and so on. Buy the book, you wont regret it. Good luck. Tor

Kwokhing.com have reasonable priced feet's for the DA 867 machine, it uses the same feet's as the 367 and several others http://www.kwokhing.com/da/ Get a drop-down roller guide (suspending guide) when you at it. You will not find them to a better price anywhere else. Send them an email and pay with Paypal. good luck. Tor

Hi, The best motor for this machine is the Efka 1550, with the right Dürkopp Adler control DA 321 I think it is. This motor is more than strong enough for this machine. I use it on my 441 machine (without speed reducer) and I only use half of its power. The motor itself is very small, it is best mounted inside the machine head on direct drive. Dürkopp Adler or Efka will help you with the setup. If you buy it the Efka will help you on Skype video support to set up the motor. This motor has it all, needle position, great low speed control and all sewing programs. You can attach all the extras you want to on it; like air pneumatic or electro solenoid valves for back tacking, foot lift etc. Also step motors, anything you like. The option is a Chinese low priced servo, with a needle position and this is not that low priced anymore. And in addition if you want a speed reducer, then the price goes further up. There are crappy light sensor speed controls on several of these motors, and no options for extras. The Efka is a pro motor, the one Dürkopp Adler uses on their machines. When you have free support, the best technique and German super quality its worth the extra dollars. The machine becomes a dream to use, your machine is to fine for a cheap motor. You do not install a 1,2 liter Hyundai motor in your Mercedes Benz 500 either. I have Efka motors on three of my machines and I love them. I think your machine will handle those collars just fine, it will sew with tex 270 thread too. Of course you need a good motor to sew this thick, the Efka has up to 1800 Watt and 8 Nm torque , you will never use that much. However it ensures a smooth operation. Tor

Hi, The book are available on amazon. I did not know H Brindley still was in business, I think I saw the stuff from J Adams somewhere. I would love to see it again, Brindley too. Do they have a web page or some place they can be seen? You are lucky to live in a place with so rich saddlery history, it is not much to be found here no more. I saw a Danish saddler who has a lot of old harness ornaments, Heraldic crowns and such. He has done a lot for the Danish royal family apparently. http://www.sadelmager-dahlman.dk/side35.html There is a lot of nice historic stuff from the French saddelry there too. The language is Danish and French, google translate will take care of it. http://www.sadelmager-dahlman.dk/side32.html

Sometimes the use of Fibings liquid glycerin saddle soap will take care of the troubling thread, apply it on the spool and it soak in. However, it may also help to double the times you lead the thread true the thread pin. Use more than two holes and go around the pin between each hole. Use the lube pot and every guide holes available to get the twink out of the thread. This can also happen if thread is not pulled of the center of the spool. When you accidental push the thread rack guide out of position, or forget to lead the thread true at least two holes in the thread pin. I have heard it happens mostly to black colors because of something related to the coloring process. Double dying or redying of other colors can make it stick to the spool. like the trouble of a unevently voven bobbin.

Yes, I was 99 % sure of that too. However, when you accusing someone of cheating you got to be 100 % certain.

Hi Steve, how are you. Have you ever seen a genuine nine inch Juki 441 "S"? I guess that "S" suppose to stand for short, thats not Juki language. No I believe the "S" is from the clone`s sign, as on the similar Econosew clone in Piddlers post #8. Piddler, you asked for help; now you have all the dealers present. Non of our other members (certainly not me, anyway) has something to gain from advising you to use this dealers. We knows the importance of support on Chinese sewing machines. And the fact that what might look like the super deal on Internet, often turns out to be the most expensive one. If you going to buy a Cobra, Cowboy or Techsew, buy it from their respective dealers. Not from somebody on EBay who sells machines that looks phony. You can call them on free phone lines, they might have something used too. Good luck Tor

Nice job, This is a project I will do too when I have some spare time for it. I would have used a 45 degree angle on the joint before gluing and sewing it together. Its best done with an French edger. Nice work. Tor

If you read/look in the book "Dictionary of leather-working tools, c. 1700-1950 and the tools of allied trades" by RA.A. Salaman. Impressing title and a very fine hand illustrated tool dictionary on about 400 pages. There is at least twenty pages from Geo. Barnsleys tool cataloque, dated Sheffield 1898. He are represented in boot and shoe making tools, tools for tanners and Currier's, he also had some tools for harness and saddler's. He has a huge selection of different tools. Other Sheffield makers mention in the book is: Oxley, James and Wing, Thos. In Ward & Payne`s Cataloque, Sheffield, there is a lot of Saddler/harness tools too. The tools look very similar to both Dixon and Barnsley. There are two Dixon companies registered: Dixon, Thomas& son Walsall and Dixon, Joseph Tool co Walsall (who is the son of Thomas and still in business. He is a member of this forum and more than 90 years old, as you know) Their cataloque is not in the book. However, they look exactly as the tools who was sold by Hamton & Scott`s Equine Album Walsall, c 1900. There is a lot of other English tool makers listed in the book, in the old times there was a tool maker in every backyard. The tools patterns was often the same used by many companies, this was also case with French and American tools. So who made the first tool of it kind can be hard to find out if it was not patented, then when the patent expired other makers reproduced it if it was a popular tool or machine. We see a lot of examples on this both in leather tools and sewing-machines. This book is very helpful to me when I buy old leather tools. I have old tools from both J,Dixon, T Dixon and Geo Barnsley. Old steel is like wine, if you keep it the right way its getting better by the years. I like both European and American tools and I have not found any new stuff that can match the good old hand made tools. Then I have not payed 6 -700 dollars for a custom made round knife yet, so I do not know if they are better. However I am planning to buy a custom made Knipshield blade for my Dixon plough, they look awesome and I am told they preform very well too. I cannot wait to get a update from the Barnsleys. Make sure to ask them if their tools can be bought directly from them, and if they will make new saddlers tools from the old pattern inthe good old quality. Tell them they have too., Ha Ha In advance thanks. Good luck Leather Tool freak. Tor

Thanks, I make sure I do not hit anything first, and you can use a stop or a tape on your drill bit to make sure you do not drill to deep. It is "soft" metal and easy to drill in (with the right drill bit). I am about to do the same job on my 441 too. As long as you know what you are doing it is no big deal. If you have not threaded a screw hole before, practice on some scrap metal and do it in the same angle as you have to on the machine. Try to make it as straight as possible (in a 90 degree angle) It is not difficult. Cheers Tor

If you have not read all the post about mr Hale and co, you can check this out http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=41396 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42100&hl=%2Bhale+%2Band http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38837&hl=%2Bhale+%2Band I am sure they would be interested in whats has been going on with their and their fathers name. Kayak45 sure would be interested in getting more info since he still have not got his money back from Hale, and it was some dollars too. besides all this. I am mostly interested in what they are doing regards their leather tools, if they are going to go for low priced tools or move up to their fathers company standard of tools again. I hope they will see you and give you a update. Good luck with that. Thanks Tor

And stay away from Hale and Co, if he is still around. Some of our members are still waiting on their Barnsley tools from him, purchased for almost a year ago. Les, being a neighbor of their office, why not pay them a visit and get a update on their business. Its been a lot of different stories/ rumors about them. I do not think they know about the tool scam done with their fathers name either.

Listen to what Ken says, at least wait until Bob get answer from Juki. Then you will know how trustworthy this seller is. The Cowboy and Cobra dealers has used machines too, and different way of financing them.

I totally agree with everything you say Bluesman, However, I prefer a Strat. I sold mine years ago when times was Though, and I have never been able to buy an other one. Now I only play for my own amusement, I will do with my acoustics and a cheap strat copy some one gave to me.