Trox

Hi Martin, yes I do. I posted about two of my guide installations here on this forum, you find the posts underneath. The guide on the Pfaff is in fact the DA (Dürkopp Adler) guide, the same type Juki and DA uses on their machine. (Juki color is black) The type that I installed on my DA machine (square frame) is the best type of guide. Tor http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37299&st=30&hl=+dropdown%20+roller%20+guide#entry252221 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40567&hl=%2Bdropdown+%2Broller+%2Bguide

Hi Piddler, I have never seen a original Juki 441 with 9 inch arm before. I never seen it in any Juki web sites either. If this is a rebuilt Chinese nine inch head with some Juki parts inside, it has to be done by a Juki authorized workshop or with a Juki license. Yes the video is the same machine, the face plate looks like a painted original Juki. It is not legal to rebuild machine and change the name, or put a Juki name on a copy machine. This violates several laws included trademarks and EBays own rules. Have you spoken to the seller? there was no questions about this on EBay before I asked this same question. This looks like a professional sewing machine sales man who should know these rules. It is of course possible I am missing something here? thats the reason for this question in the first place. Our dealer should know if this is legal or not. Thanks Tor

A TSC 441 for that price will be a good buy, even if you had to change some parts on it. The TSC 441 only comes with a 16,53 inches arm. It is a long arm version called TSC 461 with a 37 inches arm. The Juki 441 costs 5750 $ head only where I live, I believe thats about the same as the global price, there are no tax on sewing machines here.

Hi, what Wiz forget to mention is that the Juki TSC 441, who is one of your alternatives; is the mother of all these clones machine. Cobra 4, Cowboy 4500, Toro 3000 (shorter arm) and Techsew 5100 are all Chinese copies of this machine. They have a 5 mm higher lift (not the Toro 3000) and leather set up; smooth feet`s and feed dog. Some have also a special needle plate. However, these attachment can be bought from one of our dealers for 2 to 300 $ and installed on the original machine. The Juki is made in Japan and is a more expensive and better machine. However, if you are going to sew thin leather with threads lighter than Tex 138 a machine like the Cowboy 2500 or Techsew 2700 will do a better job. The 441 has a very long needle who will easily bend or break in small sizes, it is made for heavy work. Tor

Evening Guys, you are right Leather Guru, I have only seen it in work on youtube. Here is a four wheel version from Weaver I have not seen small simple machines like this for one edge only, only big industrials to a lot dollars.Clay, with all respect, you either do a heck of a lot of holsters or have bad edgers. I do have various styles of edgers. My favorites are the old Newark stamped CS. Osborn finest edgers. You might need some bent shank western or bisonette edgers for the sharp U turns. I always strop them on the edge of my leather stropping board before use (suppliers sell special edger stropping wood block`s). Although I love French and old English leather tools, the best edgers comes from the USA. I am sure there are a lot of fine custom made edgers around too. Sharp U turns that are hard to bevel by hand, would surely be hard to do on a machine too. The powered cutting/polishing wheel has to be very small in diameter to fit those narrow U curves. I reckon machine users have to do those turn by hand too. If somebody have more info please let us know. Thanks Tor

Hi Chancey77, Nice thread and good work. I am planning to do a Guitar myself. Did you plan this to be your 777 post? Tor

Hi Hawgman, Nice to see you back with the living; how are you Tor

Billy, if you want to sew with heavy thread a 441 clone is your best choice. Nobody sells those already set up for leather 441 machines like Cobra and Cowboy in my country. I had to buy all the leather attachments and set up my 441 clone for leather work myself, (needle plates, smooth feed dog and leather feet`s $$$) the same way as I described above. It is not size and power who makes it a leather machine, it is the set up. I use it for thread sizes thicker than Tex 138, for sizes lower than that I use a Dürkopp Adler flatbed and a Pfaff cylinder bed of same ratings as your Juki. One is set up for leather and the other for upholstery work. All I am saying; if you are buying a new machine be sure it is for the right reason. My choice would be a Cobra or a Cowboy 16 1/2 " arm, then you will not need to upgrade later because of lack of space to the right of the needle. They have greater second hand value too, and they are both good machines. You have to look at what you get for the dollar. Good luck Tor

Hi Billy, the answer is not always more dollars and a bigger machine, You can do a lot with what you have. Focus on a proper leather set up for your Juki. I will not stand in the way for those who want to sell you a bigger machine. Nevertheless, two times 9 oz is what? 7 to 8 mm. in my part of the world. Your fine Juki LU 563 should be able to handle that thickness all day long. First, smooth feet's , a leather needle and lower your feed dog in level with the needle plate ( or get a smooth one, you can grind down a original one or build up between the groves with epoxy glue to make it smooth). Be careful not to set the feed dog to low so it hits any other components. I usually lower the feed dog on similar machines and let the machine feed with the top feed on leather work. With smooth feet's it is primarily the needle who does the feeding (like the set up on many famous brands of leather machines has). You must use more thread tension to get a tighter stitch, then it looks better on the backside too. Clean under bobbin spring or change it to get more lower thread tension. Clean top tension disks and if necessary change any worn out parts. With these improvements I am sure you will have a better result. Just my two cents tip in a money tight January month. Happy New Year Tor

Yes it is great stuff, and prices are too. I bought very high tech feet's and drop down roller guides for all my machines there. For my Pfaff, Dürkopp Adler and Juki 441 clone. Those drop down (suspending guides) are very handy, you would wonder how you did without them. They normally sell for 80 to 125 $ on EBay (and other places) if the number starts with KG it is their guides (and KF for feet's). They take 20 to 25 $ for the suspending guides and 9 to 15 $ for walking feet's. Their welting feet's are very fine, both outer and inner foot has grooves for the cord. They normally deal with big companies and dealers, however they are happy to serve us end users too. Send Bosco Ko an email with the foot number and size of the cord, or ask what they have for your machine (they add new stuff all the time and it may not yet be on their site). They are not used to old machines and do not always know what feet's they uses, however thats not a problem with your machine class. Say hello from me and tell them you found them on LW net, it will benefit us all. If you have special requests, they can make it for you in their production shop. Good luck Tor

Thats just what I wanted to say, I used a bottom feed jump foot Adler class 5 for years before I upgraded to a 441. I hammered the seam just after sewing to take away the markings underneath the leather. And used as less foot pressure as possible, I did not have much problem with markings. Thats a similar machine to the Singer 45K and the Cowboy 2500, a better choice if you are going to sew with thick threads.

Contact our dealers Steve at Cobra, Bob at Cowboy, many swap in their old machines when they buy new 441 clones. They may have a used bottom feed heavy stitcher for sale or something better. Tell them about you needs and budget.good luck

http://www.kwokhing.com/ Have all the feet`s you need to dealer prices. Send them an email and ask for Mr. Bosco Ko, you pay with paypal. Fast shipping and nice people, best of all unbeatable prices.

|Hi, as I said before Tex 207 is maximum thread size on these. You should not buy a machine and use it on its max all the time, this is made for Tex 69 to 138 thread. Before you use a big needle check if the distance needle to the hook tip, it can touch each other but not hit each other. If you are going to use 207 all day you should buy a heavier rating machine than this. Then you should go for a 441 clone or a Ga 5-1 type bottom feed cylinder bed. The Ga 5-1 or Ferdco mini bull type of machine cost about 1000 $ new and many is available used to the same price as the 167. It takes Tex 400 thread and sew up to 1/2 inch all day.

Hi, looking good this one and it is the heaviest subclass too. I think this one has a higher lift, 25 mm on knee (or foot pedal lift) and 12 mm on hand. This one also uses the 134-35 needle, a bit longer than the 134 system. Looking clean, you just have to try sewing on it. You will need to change that motor for a servo, then you will have a nice machine. I would think it should be worth the 750$ if it sews good in forward and reverse, forward and reverse in full speed without jamming. Tor

Hi VMI, I have some packets of Schmetz needles, left overs from my Adler 204 machine. She had the 7x23 system installed when I bought her. When I could not get leather points I changed back to her original system 328. I can sell them to you for nice price. Send me a PM, shipping cannot be much and I can send them to you in an small padded envelope. I have sizes 160, 180, 200 and 230. Happy new year to you too Tor

Hi, you must look at the machines subclass number. H4 is the heaviest Pfaff subclass (LN stands for leather,) original parts are very expensive, some are available aftermarket (I am talking 500 $ for a needle plate or more). The 335 is a small bobbin machine, except for the latest 335 who also comes with a xlarge bobbin. Then you have the flatbeds machines; they should be less expensive than the cylinder arm is. The 1245 is a very good machine, the 545 is a older Pfaff similar to the 167. Again the H4 is the Pfaff subclass you need you need, H3 can be used too. The Adler 767 is the most expensive machine here, again you must look at what subclass it is. The right subclass of the 767 will take Tex 270 thread, it is the same rating as the others. However, it can do what the others do at much higher speed, normally it has all automatic/air pneumatic. The old ones (Adler, not Dürkopp Adler) came with Rotan or Efka needle position motors. They still sells for top dollar, a very fine machine. In Europe the 767 will be at least twice the price as the others, three times the 545 and 167. Nevertheless, I have seen it to affordable prices in the USA. You need a cylinder bed, however the the Pfaff 335 cannot take heavy threads (except the latest). The 767 will be my choice before the 1245, then the 167 and the 545. If they all was in the same condition, had the right subclass number and right choice of motor/reducer (plus 100 to 200 $ for a low price servo). If you post pictures of them here we can help you find the best machine. Generally look for wear in hook, needle bar and hook clutch assembly. Good luck. Tor

You are welcome, and happy new year to you. Tor

Hi Clay, there are various machines avaiable both povered and simple manually ones like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heritage-Bluegrass-EZ-Edge-Leather-Strap-Edger-1-2-3/281038466248?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=018&category=28133&cmd=ViewItem Here is the same machine in the German company Sieck http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/belt-manufacturing/details/sieck-type-75-e-manual-hand-driven-single-side-edge-trimming-machine-for-straps-or-belts-brandnew/ And a bigger model; http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/belt-manufacturing/details/sieck-type-75-d-manual-hand-driven-double-side-edge-trimming-machine-for-straps-or-belts-brandnew/ These are for belts and straps. And here is a big powered machine who does rounding and burnishing http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/belt-manufacturing/details/zanellati-zanetti-edge-rounding-and-polishing-machine-with-adjustable-speed-and-belt-width-suction-1/ A small machine to about 450 $ will pay for it self in a short time if you do a lot of belts and straps. Tor

Anybody who knows what happens to this editor, it is sometimes totally non responsive. I cannot move the cursor back and do editing, it locks up and I have to wait for it start move again. I guess I have to report it to Johanna

Hi Friend, Do you have a Blanchard splitting machine? Any change for a picture of that machine? I did not even knew it existed any Blanchard splitters, I guess it must be a old and rare machine. Thanks Tor

Hi Tostrap, First of all information and parts on the Adler 67 can be used on 167, except from the hook who is bigger (same as the 267 machine) Parts are available from Dürkopp Adler, information is available on http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html . There is many aftermarket parts available too; http://www.kwokhing.com/ . Feet’s from the following Adler machines will fit the 167; 68,69,67,168,169,268,267 and 269. It is an upholstery class machine and it sews up to 11 mm thick. Takes up to TKT 15 to 13 thread (Ticket No. metric polyester, equals to Tex 180 to 207). Needle size 180 Nm (or Size 24). When the manual tells you it is using the needle size 21 (Nm 130), it means the machine is adjusted with this needle. You can go several sizes up and down from this, as you can with other machines too. The 167 is a very good machine it has much better quality than its successor the 267. The 67 came in many different subclasses, when the 167 only came in two (that I know of) 273; two needle and 373; one needle. In the 67 class the -373 was the leather subclass (together with the-73). The 167-373 is the same machine only with a bigger bobbin size. It has triple feed, double leaf springs for the foot pressure and uses needle system 134. It has maximum 6 mm stitch length and reverse feed. For use on leather you can change to smooth feet `s and lower the feed dog in level with the needle plate (If it is not already adjusted like this) to avoid markings on backside of the leatherwork. Alternating height on feet’s is adjusted on the backside of the head. This is a much better built machine than the newer class 267 is, it runs like a Swiss watch. Double layer 6-7 oz is about 5 to 6 mm, it will handle this thickness without any problems, I have sewed 11 mm veg tan on a 67 machine I had before. As on all upholstery class machines (except the ones who are special made for thick thread) the limitations is on thread size. I have heard of people that have adjusted them for a bigger needle size. It is possible; however, they are not made for it and will not perform well this way. I now have a DA 267 and a Pfaff cylinderbed who are in the same duty rating; I use maximum Tex 135 in them. For thicker threads, I use my 441. Look for play in the needle bar and wear in the hook (like on all old machines). Genuine DA hook is about 160 Euro, Hirose about 100 Euro. This was a very popular sewing machine; therefore, many aftermarket parts are available for it. Here are some of them: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/DurkoppAdler167SewingMachineParts I hope this was to some help for you. Good luck and Happy New Year. Thanks Tor (I do not know what is wrong with this editor, it is non responsive and will not let me adjust the letter size, you have to forgive me. I will ask Johanna about it.)