Trox

The wooden clamp is cheaper. Its a bit to stiff , I suppose it softens up a bit with more use. Or else I have to trim of abit wood to make it softer. I have to admit I use a lot of of brass loop staples ( and regular staples on hidden places), not often I take the time to sew my loops. Tor

My Chinese 441 came with a Japanese shuttle, so I guess the Chinese agree with you too. LOL

Thank you Darren and Leather guru. We all learn by trial and error. The value of an old machines with allot of issues is the learning process. My 345 has a binding feed, back and forward motion only. That has to be lowered a bit under the needle plate not to disturb the feed. The way L. Guru writes about above. Pfaff are fine machines, nevertheless, I prefer a Dürkopp Adler if I have the choice. Thats just matter of taste, they are both excellent machines. Thank you once again for those parts L. Guru, they came in handy. Tor

Thats a very good answer, short and well explained. Here is its wooden counterpart. Tor

Thanks Steve, please let me know if you get some pictures to show the use of it. Thanks Tor

Lighter duty rating

Takk Knut, its not that far away, we will figure it out. Thanks Knut. Let me know when you want to sell it. Thanks Tor

That look good Knut, I have a 5 in 1 machine with the same blue plate " MAFAL". I need a splitter like that. Maybe we could figure out a trade that will please us both, if you need something I might have.... just a thought. Let me think about it. Or if you are willing to sell it, think about a price or a trade. Thanks Tor

Yes, you are right it is a 205-6, I do remember it now. I also found it in my 205 adjustment/service manual. It is a bottom feed only, same feed as the Singer 45K-25. The material is feed with the feed dog only. This machine will sew up 12 to 14 mm of material and take up to a Nm 260 needle. Maximum thread size tkt 8 to 6 (tex 400 to 500). Needle system 328, adjusted to needle sys. 328 LR size 200. It has a king size bobbin, same shuttle as Juki 441 and DA 205-370. The advantages compared to the 45K-25 is a bigger bobbin; it holds more and thicker thread. It has a modern big/heavy hand wheel with a V belt gouge. The 45K use leather round drive-belts that does not work that well, it tends to slip with heavy load (it can be fixed). This machine has a roulette roller foot who works better on leather that the stock foot does. It`s German engineering and quality on its best with a beautiful stitch. 10 mm stitch length forward and revers on both machines. The 45K-25 might be without revers, I am not sure. The 45K is obsolete but allot of parts is still available. All part is still available for the Adler machine. Both machines will mark up the bottom side of your veg tan leather projects because of the feed dog, and have difficulties feeding true different heights of material (climbing). To avoid these problems you need a triple feed X heavy machine set up for leather work; like a Juki 441 or Adler 204-370, original or clones. Example are Cobra 3 and 4, Cowboy 3500 or 4500 (9 and 16,5 inch arms). They start at 2200 $ set up for leather work. Because of the bottom feed they compare to a new machine like the Cowboy 2500 or equivalent (1300 $ with reverse) This will also decide the trade in value of the machine. The Adler will be worth more than it and the Singer less. However, they all do the same job; sew heavy leather with thick thread. Unfortunately they all mark up the bottom side of the leather, to avoid this you must spend more dollars. I hope this helps, there is allot of information about this subject in this forum. Use the search engine or Google if you need more. Good luck Tor

Your info is wrong, no Adler 205 does only 6 mm. The 205 is the extra heavy duty cylinder arm class from Dürkopp Adler. Its the subclass number who is wrong "-6", I cannot find it. The forerunner the 105 has a subclass -6, but the 205 does not. As far as I know, but nothing surprise me with DA it can be a special model. But more likely you got the wrong class or subclass number. However, one thing is for sure; if it exist it will sew more than 6 mm. Tor

Hi are you sure about the subclass number on this 205-6 machine, or is it a 205-64? To answer you I must have the right machine class and subclass. Tor

Hi, it can be a hustle to find the right one for your machine because Adler changed the shuttle on most of their 105 machines for a bigger open type (# 065 00 185 4). Then they changed it again for the big new shuttle thats fit the 205 and 204 machines (# 204 15 010 4). The closed big type that is the industial standard today in both Juki 441 and DA 205-370. If you are sure about the part number on your 105-64, then it`s from before 1972 and has the first small shuttle (# 005 00 290 4). (# 005 00 292 4) is only the bobbin house, the complete shuttle is # 005 00 290 4. (The small one is the same size as Singer 45K use and the big one is the same size as the 441) Thats the same shuttle who was in the forerunner class 5, you can see that the part number starts with a 005. I bought this shuttle for my 105 from Dürkopp Adler, but the part was not genuine and had a lower price. You can also buy it from a dealer that sells Japanese Hirose or the Italian Ceralini. These companies still make them (thats probably where D. Adler buys it from anyway). It also possible to get them from China. However, you better choose the Japanese or Italian ones. Dan Naegle at Campbell Randall has it too. Good luck Tor

Thank you, I echo what Steve ask for. I too need to see it in use to get the picture. In advance thanks. Tor

Thanks Knut, the receipt is noted. Could you send me a pic of it, or the one that you have from before. I could be interested if its the right one. Thanks Tor

Hei Knut, Sorry for the late reply ( Eastern Holiday trip, came home yesterday) You keep on score nice machines and tools, nice job Knut. Apparently we both have a good nose for finding gold among Grey stones. Maybe you and me should go in to business as gold diggers, ha ha. The maker, named in my first post also makes a round knife. Looking at the handle I can see its the same style. Did you change the two screws on the plough? mine has a hex screw on the top and a very ugly long thumb screw on the fence adjustment. I like to unscrew it and trow it as far as I can, as soon as I find a replacement its in the trash. Do you think your goldsmith buddy will let me in to his secret of removing rust?, is it some kind of electrolytic bath. What kind of splitter did she give you . Anyway, a good price for those nice tools. Tor

Hi, I have answered your PM. I have a 345-H3 and a service manual for it. I will load it up for sharing and post the link here when its ready. This Pfaff service manual is unlike other Pfaff manuals, it has no photos or drawings. You must be an experienced sewing machine mechanic to understand the adjustments. You can always use Pfaff`s other manuals as examples, and switch the data's only. I will help you go true it if you need it. Are you sure about the the subclass numbers on your machine, I cannot find a 345-145/1C- H3 SN ; the last letters are C= type of machine, H3= subclass, S= for fabric, N= 6 mm stitch length max. The 145/1 is the equipment number that tell what kind of lower feed, feed dog and sewing attachments etc. However I can`t find that number in my papers, ask on Pfaff industrial http://www.pfaff-industrial.com/ they are very helpful there. They sent me my service/adjustment manual when I asked for it. I will send you the link true a PM, If anybody else need it please let me know. Later Tor

I have not been in contact with the company management yet, only the person in the grinding department who did the damage. He ignores my emails of course. I wanted to find a replacement before I contacted the boss, that way I could tell him the price of a new one. I wanted to ask Olaf about this question when Zack White told me they had a blade for me. I later found out he only had six inch blades, so I am back where I was before. It seems that Olaf have left this thread, it was his thread not mine. Olaf if you read this could you possible get me in contact with your blade maker? In advance thanks. The blade still measures 31 mm from the edge to it back (the shortest measurement), and it is 8 mm thick. I guess it is possible to fix it, it want be pretty anymore. However, it should be possible to get the right angle if you have a machine that could do it. If you know of somebody who can fix it, please let me know. I still want the company to pay for a new one, I think they should. If not I will give them bad publicity, it can be more expensive to them. Tor

Thanks you both for the replies. I have a new small six inch Heritage splitter, I only have to strop the blade with a aggressive polishing paste when needed. I am going to address the head of the company. Zack White did not have the 8 inch blade after all. They thought I needed a 6 inch (like all others) I am back to where I was before with this splitter. Tor

Hi, I had just bought the old splitter and the blade needed some work to be straight again. I wanted a professional result so I sent it away to a company who sharpens saw blades and stuff (they was recommended to me). First I got it in return and they had done the underside only, on a very expensive big machine. The result was very good. I sent it back and told them to do both sided ( I am used to people who can think on their own). They told me they could not fit it in their big machine because of the blades screw-hole tabs. But they could do it on the band grinder. They told me it did not have the same precision as the big machine. Looking at the underside I thought they was talking about 0.001 mm tolerances. When I got the blade in return we was talking about 10 mm tolerances (1/2 inches), look at the picture and see for yourself. I was sure these people was better than me on the band grinder, I have 50$ machine but still get good results. I cried when I got it in return. Now when I have found a blade I can tell them to pay for it. (You see the pictures from before and after, with grinding directions) Tor

Hi Bruce and Jeremy, 14 to 16 degrees is more like it, 20 degrees sounded a bit to much. Jeremy, It is a nice measuring tool, the angle calculation with two unknown angles is hard to do without a scientific calculator. You need sinus and cosines anyway. Bruce, I eventually found a supplier for the 8 inch Osb # 86 blade I needed. Zack White leather will get it in their next shipment from Osborne in about three to four weeks times. 245 $ is a fair price, not like the German Osb supplier who wanted nearly 500 $ for the same blade. That eight inch splitter I bought from you have a very good frame, nice and tight in all joints. It would be a shame to trow it away because of a missing blade. The next splitter blade who needs a shape up I will do it myself. (A Norwegian grinding company messed up my splitter blade) I am going to straighten up that 10 inch blade a bit and change a bolt in a joint on it, and the ten inch will be perfect. I have not had the time to do it yet, to much projects. I do have a small Heritage # 84 copy that works well, a 5 in 1 and a bell knife machine too. So there is no problem. Tor

Yes I know it is a German splitter. It then has a different bolt measurement than the two Osborn blade types? I do not know what the blade angel the Osborn has, I know we have talked about this before in this forum. The info is here somewhere. We also talked about hollow ground or not. The new style of Osborne splitters use hollow ground blades, and the old not (some of them was). Bruce said he could not see any difference in performance between the two. My blades are old so I cannot get the right angle measurement for you, I am sorry. Tor

Hi Olaf, could you post a picture of your splitter, Osborn made different models. The blade has to work well for the particular construction. A man who knows a lot about splitters is Bruce Johnson, he is a moderator here. I have a couple of old Osborn # 86 models, with 8 and 10 inch blades. My Eight inch needs a new blade too. There is a German Osborn dealer that sells 8 inch blades for the # 86. However, he is very expensive, about the same price as a new six inch Osborne #86 model.(400 to 500 $). Can I ask you what you have to pay for a handmade blade? I think the Keystone (Osb. # 84) is the best of the pull true splitter models. Because you can do a lap skive on it, here it is: http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_143&product_id=13842 Tor

Thank you Frank, I will give it a try. With the amount of wax I have to buy it seems I will have enough for a life time too. Or maybe the wax ca be used for other things too. When I was a kid we used to wax our skies with paraffin wax, it was for sale everywhere. Now these products are wrapped in nice boxes and called something else. Thanks for the reciept and have a nice day Tor

Thank Frank, I found it in a store like that, they sell it in a 5 kg box. The wax is small white pastilles, pellets. It says 100% pure paraffin wax for canning. Then you heat it in a water boil and mix it with the bees wax I guess?. Then you use pure bees wax, not the one with dark color am I right?