Trox

Yes, you are right it is a 205-6, I do remember it now. I also found it in my 205 adjustment/service manual. It is a bottom feed only, same feed as the Singer 45K-25. The material is feed with the feed dog only. This machine will sew up 12 to 14 mm of material and take up to a Nm 260 needle. Maximum thread size tkt 8 to 6 (tex 400 to 500). Needle system 328, adjusted to needle sys. 328 LR size 200. It has a king size bobbin, same shuttle as Juki 441 and DA 205-370. The advantages compared to the 45K-25 is a bigger bobbin; it holds more and thicker thread. It has a modern big/heavy hand wheel with a V belt gouge. The 45K use leather round drive-belts that does not work that well, it tends to slip with heavy load (it can be fixed). This machine has a roulette roller foot who works better on leather that the stock foot does. It`s German engineering and quality on its best with a beautiful stitch. 10 mm stitch length forward and revers on both machines. The 45K-25 might be without revers, I am not sure. The 45K is obsolete but allot of parts is still available. All part is still available for the Adler machine. Both machines will mark up the bottom side of your veg tan leather projects because of the feed dog, and have difficulties feeding true different heights of material (climbing). To avoid these problems you need a triple feed X heavy machine set up for leather work; like a Juki 441 or Adler 204-370, original or clones. Example are Cobra 3 and 4, Cowboy 3500 or 4500 (9 and 16,5 inch arms). They start at 2200 $ set up for leather work. Because of the bottom feed they compare to a new machine like the Cowboy 2500 or equivalent (1300 $ with reverse) This will also decide the trade in value of the machine. The Adler will be worth more than it and the Singer less. However, they all do the same job; sew heavy leather with thick thread. Unfortunately they all mark up the bottom side of the leather, to avoid this you must spend more dollars. I hope this helps, there is allot of information about this subject in this forum. Use the search engine or Google if you need more. Good luck Tor

Your info is wrong, no Adler 205 does only 6 mm. The 205 is the extra heavy duty cylinder arm class from Dürkopp Adler. Its the subclass number who is wrong "-6", I cannot find it. The forerunner the 105 has a subclass -6, but the 205 does not. As far as I know, but nothing surprise me with DA it can be a special model. But more likely you got the wrong class or subclass number. However, one thing is for sure; if it exist it will sew more than 6 mm. Tor

Hi are you sure about the subclass number on this 205-6 machine, or is it a 205-64? To answer you I must have the right machine class and subclass. Tor

Hi, it can be a hustle to find the right one for your machine because Adler changed the shuttle on most of their 105 machines for a bigger open type (# 065 00 185 4). Then they changed it again for the big new shuttle thats fit the 205 and 204 machines (# 204 15 010 4). The closed big type that is the industial standard today in both Juki 441 and DA 205-370. If you are sure about the part number on your 105-64, then it`s from before 1972 and has the first small shuttle (# 005 00 290 4). (# 005 00 292 4) is only the bobbin house, the complete shuttle is # 005 00 290 4. (The small one is the same size as Singer 45K use and the big one is the same size as the 441) Thats the same shuttle who was in the forerunner class 5, you can see that the part number starts with a 005. I bought this shuttle for my 105 from Dürkopp Adler, but the part was not genuine and had a lower price. You can also buy it from a dealer that sells Japanese Hirose or the Italian Ceralini. These companies still make them (thats probably where D. Adler buys it from anyway). It also possible to get them from China. However, you better choose the Japanese or Italian ones. Dan Naegle at Campbell Randall has it too. Good luck Tor

Thank you, I echo what Steve ask for. I too need to see it in use to get the picture. In advance thanks. Tor

Thanks Knut, the receipt is noted. Could you send me a pic of it, or the one that you have from before. I could be interested if its the right one. Thanks Tor

Hei Knut, Sorry for the late reply ( Eastern Holiday trip, came home yesterday) You keep on score nice machines and tools, nice job Knut. Apparently we both have a good nose for finding gold among Grey stones. Maybe you and me should go in to business as gold diggers, ha ha. The maker, named in my first post also makes a round knife. Looking at the handle I can see its the same style. Did you change the two screws on the plough? mine has a hex screw on the top and a very ugly long thumb screw on the fence adjustment. I like to unscrew it and trow it as far as I can, as soon as I find a replacement its in the trash. Do you think your goldsmith buddy will let me in to his secret of removing rust?, is it some kind of electrolytic bath. What kind of splitter did she give you . Anyway, a good price for those nice tools. Tor

Hi, I have answered your PM. I have a 345-H3 and a service manual for it. I will load it up for sharing and post the link here when its ready. This Pfaff service manual is unlike other Pfaff manuals, it has no photos or drawings. You must be an experienced sewing machine mechanic to understand the adjustments. You can always use Pfaff`s other manuals as examples, and switch the data's only. I will help you go true it if you need it. Are you sure about the the subclass numbers on your machine, I cannot find a 345-145/1C- H3 SN ; the last letters are C= type of machine, H3= subclass, S= for fabric, N= 6 mm stitch length max. The 145/1 is the equipment number that tell what kind of lower feed, feed dog and sewing attachments etc. However I can`t find that number in my papers, ask on Pfaff industrial http://www.pfaff-industrial.com/ they are very helpful there. They sent me my service/adjustment manual when I asked for it. I will send you the link true a PM, If anybody else need it please let me know. Later Tor

I have not been in contact with the company management yet, only the person in the grinding department who did the damage. He ignores my emails of course. I wanted to find a replacement before I contacted the boss, that way I could tell him the price of a new one. I wanted to ask Olaf about this question when Zack White told me they had a blade for me. I later found out he only had six inch blades, so I am back where I was before. It seems that Olaf have left this thread, it was his thread not mine. Olaf if you read this could you possible get me in contact with your blade maker? In advance thanks. The blade still measures 31 mm from the edge to it back (the shortest measurement), and it is 8 mm thick. I guess it is possible to fix it, it want be pretty anymore. However, it should be possible to get the right angle if you have a machine that could do it. If you know of somebody who can fix it, please let me know. I still want the company to pay for a new one, I think they should. If not I will give them bad publicity, it can be more expensive to them. Tor

Thanks you both for the replies. I have a new small six inch Heritage splitter, I only have to strop the blade with a aggressive polishing paste when needed. I am going to address the head of the company. Zack White did not have the 8 inch blade after all. They thought I needed a 6 inch (like all others) I am back to where I was before with this splitter. Tor

Hi, I had just bought the old splitter and the blade needed some work to be straight again. I wanted a professional result so I sent it away to a company who sharpens saw blades and stuff (they was recommended to me). First I got it in return and they had done the underside only, on a very expensive big machine. The result was very good. I sent it back and told them to do both sided ( I am used to people who can think on their own). They told me they could not fit it in their big machine because of the blades screw-hole tabs. But they could do it on the band grinder. They told me it did not have the same precision as the big machine. Looking at the underside I thought they was talking about 0.001 mm tolerances. When I got the blade in return we was talking about 10 mm tolerances (1/2 inches), look at the picture and see for yourself. I was sure these people was better than me on the band grinder, I have 50$ machine but still get good results. I cried when I got it in return. Now when I have found a blade I can tell them to pay for it. (You see the pictures from before and after, with grinding directions) Tor

Hi Bruce and Jeremy, 14 to 16 degrees is more like it, 20 degrees sounded a bit to much. Jeremy, It is a nice measuring tool, the angle calculation with two unknown angles is hard to do without a scientific calculator. You need sinus and cosines anyway. Bruce, I eventually found a supplier for the 8 inch Osb # 86 blade I needed. Zack White leather will get it in their next shipment from Osborne in about three to four weeks times. 245 $ is a fair price, not like the German Osb supplier who wanted nearly 500 $ for the same blade. That eight inch splitter I bought from you have a very good frame, nice and tight in all joints. It would be a shame to trow it away because of a missing blade. The next splitter blade who needs a shape up I will do it myself. (A Norwegian grinding company messed up my splitter blade) I am going to straighten up that 10 inch blade a bit and change a bolt in a joint on it, and the ten inch will be perfect. I have not had the time to do it yet, to much projects. I do have a small Heritage # 84 copy that works well, a 5 in 1 and a bell knife machine too. So there is no problem. Tor

Yes I know it is a German splitter. It then has a different bolt measurement than the two Osborn blade types? I do not know what the blade angel the Osborn has, I know we have talked about this before in this forum. The info is here somewhere. We also talked about hollow ground or not. The new style of Osborne splitters use hollow ground blades, and the old not (some of them was). Bruce said he could not see any difference in performance between the two. My blades are old so I cannot get the right angle measurement for you, I am sorry. Tor

Hi Olaf, could you post a picture of your splitter, Osborn made different models. The blade has to work well for the particular construction. A man who knows a lot about splitters is Bruce Johnson, he is a moderator here. I have a couple of old Osborn # 86 models, with 8 and 10 inch blades. My Eight inch needs a new blade too. There is a German Osborn dealer that sells 8 inch blades for the # 86. However, he is very expensive, about the same price as a new six inch Osborne #86 model.(400 to 500 $). Can I ask you what you have to pay for a handmade blade? I think the Keystone (Osb. # 84) is the best of the pull true splitter models. Because you can do a lap skive on it, here it is: http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_143&product_id=13842 Tor

Thank you Frank, I will give it a try. With the amount of wax I have to buy it seems I will have enough for a life time too. Or maybe the wax ca be used for other things too. When I was a kid we used to wax our skies with paraffin wax, it was for sale everywhere. Now these products are wrapped in nice boxes and called something else. Thanks for the reciept and have a nice day Tor

Thank Frank, I found it in a store like that, they sell it in a 5 kg box. The wax is small white pastilles, pellets. It says 100% pure paraffin wax for canning. Then you heat it in a water boil and mix it with the bees wax I guess?. Then you use pure bees wax, not the one with dark color am I right?

Hi Frank, yes a old thread but never out of date. So he used pure wool felt, I will try that too. Thank you for the information. Then he used wax I guess. I use two kinds of wood wheels on my burnishing motor. One is made out of cocobolo, I use this with water only. The other wheel creates more heat and I use this for wax. It is good to have different wheels because leather react different to burnishing. With a wool felt wheel in addition to the two I have, I will cover more types of leather. I think some of the for sale buffing wheels are made of pure wool felt, I will check it out. About wax; what kind of wax are you using, do you use paraffin wax? I see many use paraffin wax together with bees wax. The paraffin wax is not available from my Norwegian suppliers, do you know where I can buy some to try it out. In advance thanks. Tor

Hi Frank, you know this is a old tread from 2010? Like everybody else I been fooling around with all kinds of burnishing material too and been wondering about the (fantastic) wheel; Is it any good or not. Is any of those Bianchi videos on Youtube or somewhere else? I just want to see the wheel making part and I do not want to buy a DVD to do so. In advance thanks Tor

Thank you Martin, I look forward to his answer. Your left plough looks like it is of a French pattern, same as Blanchard and Mayer Flamery (and more). The other one is unusual, I have never seen this style before. The knife style is French. However, the handle style is more German. I guess it is French or German. I have seen that German tool makers have made leather tools of French pattern before. I have also seen the horseshoe with star mark on a other French plough gauge, who was for sale on French EBay. On some other saddler tools too. They both are metric so that leaves out the UK, the UK plough`s are of a different pattern anyway. Do the attachment have any maker stamp on it? Where did you buy these tools? Thanks Tor

Hi Blake, the way I see this. A bell knife skiver is a must when you work with upholstery type of leather, when it comes to heavy leather you can always use a knife. Of course you can do this on the soft leather too. However, its a lot of work and not easy to get a nice results. I have a Italian bottom feed with a three motor setup, a full speed knife and small servo for the speed roll. The third motor is for the exhaust fan. If I use my steel roller on it I can skive heavy weg tan leather with good result, 4 to 5 mm thick (12 oz) is no problem. Like I mention above, I use mine mostly for soft leather. A bottom feed will skive that stuff just fine. It has to be a big skiving job before I change to a steel roller and adjust it for heavy leather. Most of the time it easier to just skive it by hand. However,If you are going to use it for mostly heavy leather, a top and bottom feed is your best choice. I see both the choices have a one motor setup, thats means the knife and roller speed is controlled by the same pedal. It must be possible to attach two motors on these skivers too, it is a advantage to have the knife turning at full speed and use a small servo for the feed roller alone. I think it should be possible to do so with any Fortuna style skiving machine, it only a matter of setting it up with the right type of V belts. To propel the feed roll a small inexpensive home sewing machine servo at 55 to 85 W will do the trick. Then you can use a normal industrial AC motor for the bell knife, let it run on full speed all the time. I do not know if this is possible with this kind of skiving machine, I have seen the Fortuna bottom feed skiver (same as Cobra NP4) set up like this. (My machine is different, it has a inbuilt small servo for the roller, see pic.) If anybody has this style of machine with a two motor setup, please let us know. About where to buy it. It was a huge price difference, normally the Consew DCS-S3 costs more than the Cobra NP4. They are sold to $ 1345,- other places. Remember what you pay for, If you buy from Steve at Cobra you will get support. If you are new to skiving machines you will for sure need it. Good luck. Tor

Thanks Wiz, you see what I mean. Tor

Thank you Martin, Of course thats the purpose. Who makes your ploughs, strap cutters? I do not recognize any of the makers stamps. In advance thanks Tor

OK, even 0.9 mm is a very thick thread. Thread sizes are confusing enough as it is, please read the size of the ones you got. If you found some old thread without any label, just trow it away it is no good. You need fresh left twisted sewing machine thread of the right size to right size needle. If you do not know the size of it, how do you size your needles. If you are not following any of these steps the result is what you have. There are ways to do it without knowing. However, I do not think you know how. Metric sizes is TKT and imperial is TEX. In the machine manual it says max TKT 40/3 (three ply) TEX 69, if I am not wrong. It also state the needle size. Your machine is not built for more (you cannot move the hook further away from the needle). I keep my threads packed in plastic, if it gets old and dry it is no good. (You may use some Fibings liquid glycerin saddle soap on it to lube it again. Nevertheless, its fresh-ware keep it in plastic). Your Juki is a good machine, it is not for heavy threads. About sewing machine prices; Heavy thread triple feeds machines is expensive all over the world. When regular machines prices and lighter duty rating triple feeds will have different prices, the first mention heavy machines are always expensive. Tor

Thank you leatherkind, I have been following your post regarding the 441 stirrup plate and its limitations. And of course, I agree with you, the plate is useless the way it is. I was planning to modify my plate the same way you did your. However, the narrow left side made me realize it can never be any good. I make me wonder if the constructor even cared to try it out, before mass-producing it. The 441 with its long needle system need a lower needle guide. If not a feed dog, a modified feed dog or a real Ferdco pat. lower needle guide. Your ABS plate looks exactly as the stirrup/bag plate should look like. Have you considered letting somebody make it in steel. I may know a company who is interested in making it, a company who makes sewing attachments. Even if the ABC plastic would hold up well, it looks like the ruff surface of it will slow down the leather feeding. Or is the surface smooth enough? To get my purchased stirrup plate to look like that, it has to be shopped and built up with weld (on the left side). (And grinded and polished of course) I do not know if it will be any good after welding, it a risky business. Maybe brass welding would do the trick, I do not know for sure. I have also considered that steel weld (even after been polished) might color wet leather black. All available 441 stirrup and holster plates have this stupid narrow left side. They all have to be from the same factory. It is important that this factory get some constructing feedback. The same line of attachments also produce feet’s of different height, which means you have to adjust the machines alternating height when you want to combine any of these feet’s. There is only one corrects height on these feet’s all others are errors. We can keep on spending our time modifying all what we buy or ask more from our dealers. I think we must ask for more quality to get it, let’s put some pressure on the Chinese makers. If they do not want to make proper stuff, there is other who will. Thanks Tor