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Trox

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  1. Trox
    Hi, would you care to post a picture?, And did you complain about it yet. Tor
  2. Trox
    Hi, Here is a system my supplier in Norway offers, its a Korean system that uses laser heads from 200 up to 3000 watt. Synrad heads from 100 to 400 Watt and Rofin Sinar from 600 to 3000 Watt. http://amatec.no/assets/files/Brosjyrer/Gerber/HiCUT%20C200%20Conveyor%20laser%20cutter.pdf https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=315419618502973 This will give you something to start your searching. I never seen them in use other than online. Tor
  3. Trox

    Lucky Again

    Trox replied to Trox's topic in Leather Tools

    Thank you, its a sad story. However, he still do leatherwork, but not as a professional. Norway is not a easy country for small businesses, its the same expenses to run a one man show as it is with ten employees. Tor
  4. Trox

    Lucky Again

    Trox replied to Trox's topic in Leather Tools

    Thank you Tom, If anybody can do it, you can. Its a simple construction. The secret lays in the big heavy flywheels motion, that exchanges in to a short movement of the press head, true a crank that moves the big column up and down. The (bicycle) crank works as a gear/exchange arm. A small stud with a spring loaded return comes out and lock the big flywheel to the main shaft when you activates it. Its kind of an reversed bicycle mechanism. Here you see the development history of their machines, http://www.schoen-sandt.com/company/about-us/development-of-cutting-machines.html I have seen people still uses the first kind of press; the 1867 screw press. They rapidly spin the big wheel to make it more powerful, Its mostly used for embossing. You still find it in Asia and Africa, I have seen they put more weight on the wheel and extend its diameter to make it more powerful. I wonder where all these old mechanical and electro mechanical presses are today, they are maybe been turned in to nails. Its about impossible to break their sturdy construction. Its possible some hidden around in basement and barns somewhere, all you got to do is looking. I know this one works very well.
  5. Trox

    Lucky Again

    Trox replied to Trox's topic in Leather Tools

    Hi all, now the machine is up and running. I have given it a clean up and a fresh layer of Hammerite paint, rebuilt the motor to a single phase. To ensure the motor got the same power as on 3 phase, it now has two big capacitors 2 times 50 µF. I have a friend who rebuild electrical motors, he brought new life in to this machine. This is not a hydraulic but a electro mechanical machine, it has a short and powerful blow. Sandt started to make hydraulic presses around 1950, this is a 53 model and probably the last of its kind (from Sandt). I have planed the wooden clicker board and supplied a 1 inch poly board on top of it. I have used it with knifes and Bunkhouse embossing plates and it works very well. I am looking for European sources for embossing plates and clicking dies, all tips will be much appreciated. Thanks Tor
  6. Trox
    Hi all, know this is an old thread. However, I did some Internet searching and found this tool on an Korean site http://beavertools.co.kr/xe/index.php?mid=marking&document_srl=1286 I do not understand the letters on this site but there is a number under it, 70.000 Korean money equals to 61 USD. Here it is on youtube And here is a video on how to convert a battery charger to a wood burner temp. control unit You can make this tool yourself and buy the creasing bits for it. For all who want to save some money and use their own time instead. Thanks Tor
  7. Trox
    Hi, change to this email format to avoid spam "brahdaa att bellsouth dot net". Good luck with the sale Tor
  8. Trox
    Hi, They all use the 328 system, size from Nm 160 to 230. (except the Adler 105-8025 who uses 794 size 180 to 300) You may be able to use one size bigger, but observe if the needle comes in contact with the hook. Any smaller size than Nm160 then the distance needle - hook will be to big and stitch error can occur (mainly skipping stitches). The 328 system is shorter than todays heavy stitcher's system the 794, but still any smaller than size 160 will be very long and thin. It can easily bend away from the hook and even break. An other issue is the bobbin tension, you need a new shuttle (bobbin house and spring) to tension thin thread. Any wear on those part and you will not be able to obtain enough tension on the bobbin thread. Adler did supply these machines with two shuttles, one for thin and one for thick thread if necessary (same shuttle but to solve this problem). You will be able to use from Tex 135 to 400 (Tkt 20 to 8) with a new shuttle (bobbin house and spring) You may be able to go bigger, but not smaller. When you use the machine with heavy thread for some time it will wear the bobbin house and not be able to tension enough for thin thread. So if you are going to use this machine with both thin and thick thread be prepared to buy a new shuttle. This way you do not have to adjust the small screws in the bobbin house and wear them out too. This is the same for any heavy lock stitcher. Most workshops have more than one machine and use these for heavy threads.
  9. Trox
    Hi, The model number is on the brass plate on your first picture: Class, subclass and equipment. Then type "B" and "L" stands for leather normally with Pfaff. The 134 number on the needle plate is the needle system Schmetz 134. Thats a short needle system used on many German sewing machines before. (like Adler 67 and 69 and older Pfaff) I do not know this machine class. However, it looks like a zigzag to me. I cannot tell without seeing the hole needle plate. If you send the number on the brass sign to Pfaff http://www.pfaff-industrial.com/pfaff/en/pfaffstart?set_language=en&cl=en they will provide you with info you need. I see the first letter on the brass plate is under the nail, you better send the picture to them too, or the link to this post. The people in Pfaff is very helpful, I am sure they will give you the info you need. Good luck Tor
  10. Trox
    Hi, In the blog of Thomas Brinkhoff , head of spare part business Dürkopp Adler AG. http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html You will find a download section of vintage technical documents. There you will find spare part lists and manuals of the class 104 (flatbed) and 105 (cyl.bed). Because they are the same machine you will often find them in the same manual. All subclasses of the 104/105 threads the same. When you start the download nothing will appear on your screen before its done, just be patient and wait for it (the manual its 32 MG in size) . For that same reason I will not be able to send you a copy of my manual by email. The 105-64 will sew different layers better with a roulette roller foot, CowboyBob (of Toledo Industrial sewing machine) sells them. Good luck with your new fine machine. Tor
  11. Trox
    Erik is polite, Massive shows the good stuff right there. Thesergeant, Its nice with a big table if you have room for it. You can glue and screw an other plate from the bottom to make your table stronger. Tor
  12. Trox
    Thank you, I will look in to it.
  13. Trox
    Thank you Erik, when you say so I might reconsider. You have the switch connected to the sewing pedals/ motors pitman's rod. Thats a simple and good solution. My air system is not up and running yet, I am going to change compressor to a silent one. The machine do not use much air, I must see how much its left when the system is up an running. I have a big compressor but its to noisy so I am changing it so I can listen to the radio. In the mean time I will follow Massive`s advice and prelube the thread. Thank you Massive. Some of the thread I am using is prelubed Coats Gral and it not that hot. Erik, How do you regulate the air flow, do you make a small hole in tube or do you use a regulator? 1/8 its about 3 mm. copper tubing maybe the same who is used on refrigerators
  14. Trox
    This one cost 125 £ http://leprevo.co.uk...lough-knife.htm its made by wood ware rep. (sons of Barnsley). It looks like a kitchen tool, but I am sure it works well. I have a new German plough in my collection, however that cost about 310 Euro. A bit less than a small Blanchard, but still expensive. Here compared to a 10 cm Blanchard plough, I would put in an extra 50 euro and buy a Blanchard instead. I have a Dixon and A old Mayer Flamery too. What makes a plough good, I believe its the steel in the knife ( the guide and frame has to be straight of course) My favorite these days is a old 15 cm Mayer Flamery plough, it has a very good knife. Thats the reason the old ones are expensive, hand made good steel in them. Tor
  15. Trox
    I finally got my self a big old Sandt clicking machine that works very well. If I had not found this machine I would have made my self one from a shop press. The clicking area is small compared to a hand operated clicker press. Nevertheless, the shop press is stronger and more transparent; you have nice control with the dies. You do not have to use more force than needed to cut true the leather. It also works with bigger embossing plates than the hand clicker. The shop press have less space and is slower to use. Nevertheless, the hand clicker cost way to much. The shop press is the winner here, no doubt about it. Tor
  16. Trox
    Hi, how wide are you able to split with your American hand crank, and what will you sell the Tandy # 84 splitter for. The handle does it lock on your splitter? Thanks Tor
  17. Trox
    Thanks, I have better things to do with my time than mopping up oil. No offense, i use that saw dust myself to remove motor oil on the garage floor. This time I will take my good friend the leather gurus advice and pay someone else to do the work for a change. (Then I can be busy making money on leather work instead) I will buy a finished little air cooler system that will fit right on with a magnet and plugs and play with my air system. Its a port on the back of my Efka motor than can be used to control it, if I want too( however, thats not necessary) I could fabricate a tubing system myself. However I doubt it will be any cheaper, and I know it will not be any better. I always seems to forget the amount of time used on projects like that, you got to find parts , buy it, fabricate it and so on. Its sometimes fun and the time just flies by. This is a click on the Internet, then plug and play. And the best thing, no more silicon. By the way, you make very nice leather tools Thanks Tor
  18. Trox
    Nothing is "solid" when it comes from Ikea. Those plates are called "hobby plates" here and made by 23 mm soft pine, used for book shelf and flower pots. The wood is taken from the outside layers of the log and curl up whit a three degree weather change . With a frame around its of course stronger. Ikea uses only the cheapest stuff and child labor, Its reasonable priced however. Maybe Ikea has managed to make a name for them self in the USA, here they fool nobody. I have installed a fair amount of Ikea kitchens in my time, I know what I talking about. ( cra........) Before all tops where made of 2 inch American plywood, now they use the bad fiber plates (particle board); they do not hold up. I have a plate like that on my Adler 204 machine/ with a heavy Efka variostop underneath. The table moves ten inches sideways every time the motor kicks in. The particle board sucks up water and give bad support for screws, the vibration from the machine makes it all worse. They do not use water proof particle boards in those cheap sewing machine tops, they do not hold up for long. I know it is a economy crisis, but come on. Its better to spend a couple of dollars more the first time than have to do it all over again when it breaks down. I know Erik will agree with me, he knows that is the most economical solution in the long run. Tor
  19. Trox
    Overkill? those ikea plates are 23 mm soft pine, Using two of them is no overkill. Its normal to use 50 mm in table tops, and better material than the crappy ikea stuff. I already regret using them. However, thats what I had when I did the top. I forgot to mention its a heavy Adler 105 going on the top of it.
  20. Trox
    Thank you for all good ideas, there are many advantages by using air. But I will not install a system that make the compressor run all the time, thats one of the advantages with this mini cooler. It uses a small amount of compressed air to produce cold air 20 deg. Fahrenheit. I will test it before buying it, they sell it here in Norway too. Many times I sew thing before coloring too, with air I have the option to do so.
  21. Trox
    Yes Art, you are right about that. I know the big spot coolers use much air, this is a mini version of it. First time I saw it was on a sail maker machine. Now it looks like its the new thing on heavy machines http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Products/Vortex%20Tubes%20and%20Spot%20Cooling/Mini%20Cooler/Pages/Mini%20Cooler.aspx This is very small, here it is on a sail maker machine.http://www.solentsew.co.uk/products/SOLENT-SLH%252d2B%252dFH%252d1%252d870-COMPLETE.html
  22. Trox
    Yes, thats the cheapest solution. If I have some money that burns in my pocket I can buy this cool Little mini cooler system that pimps up my machine too. Yes, I am a gadget/machine freak and I am not ashamed of it. This silicon lube was more slippery than all other lubrication fluids I have ever seen, even my four legged friends has trouble crossing that workshop floor. I am afraid I am going to slide in to my old clicking machine, then its game over... tilt and flat pack...no more leather work for me. Two hundred and eighty dollars is a small price to pay compared to that.
  23. Trox
    Maybe un cooled air is enough I never tried it? The mini cooler has a heat exchanger that cools down the air, then you do not have to run the compressor all the time. This system do not use much air, a open tube uses allot. Then you have to use a nozzle on the cobber tube, that might work. Thats easy to find out.
  24. Trox
    Thanks for the replay, I will certainly look for some oil dry Bob. However, I will try to avoid that much excess oil spill on the floor. Oltoot, there are no stripper tube or O rings in my lube pots. The thread comes out on the top, true a hole in the lid. Its the same kind of pot on two of my Adler's too (cast iron pots), it is no O ring in any of them. The machine I am using now is a 441 clone, before I used my Adler class 5 and 105. The Adler`s have a shorter needle system (328), they never get as hot as the longer 794 system do. I never had any heat problems with the Adler`s, on this machine needle cooling is a must. I am wondering about some spot air cooling instead of lube. Since I am building on a air foot lift on this machine, I have air for a mini cooler system. http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Products/Vortex%20Tubes%20and%20Spot%20Cooling/Mini%20Cooler/Pages/Mini%20Cooler%20System.aspx You see the principals here http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Products/Vortex%20Tubes%20and%20Spot%20Cooling/Mini%20Cooler/Pages/How%20the%20Mini%20Cooler%20Works.aspx And here is a other system on the youtube: I looked at the mini cooler from Exair, its about 280 $. Its is smaller than the one in the video and have a magnet foot, it do not use much air. Silicon oil is not only a mess, but you cannot color the leather after sewing either. Silicon and paint do not mix. Anybody who have used this Mini cooler system please give us your opinion. I either have to built some kind of oil sump that gather up the excess oil or go for a air system. The air system looks like the easy way out of this mess. Thanks
  25. Trox
    Anybody who has a clever method of avoiding silicon thread lube all over the floor. My 441clone is squirts like an old tomcat, and my workshop floor is dangerously slippery. The lube is hard to wash of too. Any other solution than old towels and rags? How do you solve the this problem, please let me know. Thanks Tor
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