Trox

Hej Sverige, I am sorry, but it will be hard to find new part and presser feet`s. The machine is obsolete. Check with Thomas Brinkhoff head of spare parts DA for any available parts or custom made part. I do not think any Singer parts will fit, but i cannot be sure. I did see two machines for sale as "garden art" 1000,- NOK some years ago. I can try to find the add if its still on the web and inform you if you are interested. What kind of 800W servo motor, Efka or Ho Sing? Tor

Hello Eric, nice set up and interesting reading. The needle cooler you made, does it only blow when the needle descend or all the time? ( I know we spoke about this before, but you wrote"when the needle descend") Thanks Tor

Hi Audery, I had a 67-73 ( who is exactly the same machine as yours, but older). I do not have this machine anymore, I sold it. However, I have a video of it sewing 11 mm. ( I believe it was bridle leather). The Machine was set up with a Cobra 600 w brush-less servo motor, and either a Nm 120 or a Nm 140 leather needle. With the 120 needle I use TKT 40 (Tex 69) polyester or nylon thread, with the 140 needle I use TKT 20 (Tex 135) thread. I made a video for the person who bought it and tested how thick it would sew, myself I have heavier machines for thick leather and would never use it for such work. If I had to use it for heavy work I would take every precaution not to break any needles. I would use Nm 140 and TKT 20 thread ( Tex 135 thread with Singer size 22 leather needle). I would glue or stapled my leather together first to avoid the layers to move and lock the needle. Use diamond or LR point needles and crank up the foot pressure to prevent the leather from moving (when the thread loop is formed). If the leather is hard or old I would use oil, water or saddle soap to soften it. This is not a heavy stitcher. Nevertheless, it should manage 8 mm. if it is not too hard. If you are using size 18 (Singer) equivalent to NM 110 (1,1 mm thick with a caliper if you do not know the sizes), thats to thin and it will bend away from the hook, because of the heavy thread tension you get sewing that thick. Thats why your machine is unable to make the thread loops. With heavy leather the needle thread relationship is more important than with thin material too. Using the machine up to its limit every adjustment must be right to avoid stitch errors. What kind of thread are you using, does it have any TeX or TKT (Ticket) sizing?. Is the layers glued or stapled together? Check you hook and bobbin house for damages before trying again. Good luck Tor

Hi Walter, you know you got my attention when it comes to splitters and especially Spanish tools. I have been looking after Spanish tools for a long time and I am not alone. Several US members of Spanish heritage is interested too. So please bring it on. About splitters; I received two 8" mod # 86 splitter blades from Bruce, he knows I have been looking everywhere for one since the Norwegian company TROMAS AS ruined mine. Bruce gave me those two blades for free, thank you very much Bruce. They are of cause old blades, with a little sharpening/polish they will be very good. Walter, we look forward to see some Spanish tools. The Spanjols had to have some good tools to, they have great knifes and sword traditions. How come we never see any of these tools. Thanks Tor

I suppose you talk about the French boxing attachment, and not the double French upholstery seam. I have never tried it, I suppose it would work. As like all other attachments who steals material height, you would need to build it as low as possible. And perhaps make it so it include the feed dog for a needle guide. If you have or know someone with a 3D printer you can make several prototypes and test them on the machine. It will save you allot of trial and error work. Good luck and keep us informed about the result. thanks Tor

Hi, yes thats a copy of the Singer 27 B2B http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/27b.htm . I believe it has a higher lift and uses needle system 1000. Seiko was made in Japan, but now I think they are made in China too. These machines are much cheaper that the Adler 120. I know of one original Adler 120 for sale (brand new, unused) here in Norway. Tor

Hello, the H4 is the heaviest version of the old Pfaff machines, it uses a longer needle and have more foot tension ( and more) than the H3 and H2. The Pfaff 545 is later model and the same machine as your 145, they have interchangeable parts. You can buy feet's and attachment to very good prices at http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/ Your machine uses the same foot as the 335,345 and 1245. Prices from 9 to 15 $ a set, you pay with Paypal. Order a drop down sewing guide when you at it ( suspending guide, see guide at the top of this site http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/). If you look at my topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40567&hl=dropdown about installing a guide on the Adler 267 and Pfaff 345. The installation will be the same on your machine as on my Pfaff 345. (same bracket, the guides have all the same mounting holes). That looks like a big strong dog, what breed is it? Good luck Tor

Hello Jim, be prepared to open your check book, these monsters cost around 200 000,00 Euro. Thats an absurd price for a sewing machine. However, its hand made on license from DA. Tor

Every AC motor is originally a 3 phase motor, you rebuild them to a single PH with mirroring one phase, and use a big capacitor. You loose some power on the motor this way. I have a friend who rebuilt motors, on big motors (1 KW or more) he use an extra capacitor and do it in such way that he loose very little power. He rebuilt my clicker motor to a single phase and it works better now than it did on three phase (it was some other faults on that motor too). You could change the motor for a bigger single phase to prevent the power lost on converting it to single. Do not use a frequency converter on such motor, because then you would loose more power that way. Convert it with extra big capacitors to keep the start up force on it, when the motor runs on top rpm it will be enough power anyway. If you can buy something good for 400 $ that does not need any work, then you should do it. Thats not much when it comes to a clicking press. Tor

http://www.ebay.com/...=item43be6d3778 You see this one has a rebuilt double electrical trigger on it. Everything is possible. Look at the last picture and you see how they did it, with an electrical solenoid. That would not be difficult to build on. Tor

HI Vincent, please post a picture of it. Its probably a thread lube box, but then again. I have to see it before answering. The only documentations I know of is on this blog; of Thomas Brinkhoff, head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler. http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html I thinks its only part books available for it. However, you could maybe learn something from reading about its successor the Adler 120. Good luck Tor

It would be easy to make a spring loaded linkage block on the top of the moving head, that block the downward travel of the trigger linkage. Then a small handle you have to bend aside with the free hand. Then you need both your hands to trigger it. I do not want to be nonchalant about safety, I am careful working with all machines. You can build on a belt cover, I have belt covers on all my machines (except one Pfaff). I have eleven leather working machines (not included bench machines) some are old others new. Some of the best ones are old. I do not do mass production, I use my clicker for both embossing and cutting. I was doing mass producing I would have purchased a new machine. (By the way there was no other used machines for sale where I live). Now I see no reason why I should spend several K of dollars for a new one, when this do the job just as fast and good. I started with needles and awls, bought inn machines when I could afford it. Most members here starts with old museums pieces, I do not see any problems with that. No loans here, I own my stuff myself. Then no bank will come and take your business away either.

First; the hand wheel can not slip or move on these machines, thats not possible. ( I asked for a picture of the top of the machine, the screw I am talking about is on the top of the machine behind the foot bar. Every thing related to the foot bar will be important). I do not believe Ferdinand made these machine mod`s without possibility to adjust them. However, if he did that it means you got to adjust the rest of the machine to match the foot timing.You said the machine feed thinner material good, but failed to feed thicker. The knurled screw on the top of the machine that release the foots spring pressure, back it off until more than half of it is over the machine head. The foot height should be 12 mm when lifted by the hand lift ( on the original machine) make yourself an 12 mm. distance piece of leather or wood etc.. Take of the face plate, on the bottom of the foot bar (where the spring ends) its a block with a screw (or two). Lift the foot by hand and adjust the height to be equal with the distance piece. Please post a picture of the top and I will look at it later today. The original adjustment manual its full of errors as a result of bad translation, check the other models and comapare with them if you suspect writing errors in it. http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205/s_204_gb.pdf Tor

Here is the Cobra http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?category=11 The saddlers attachments http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?category=11 And here is the Cowboy http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb4500.html Attachments http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html A shorter arm : http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3500.html in China http://cowboysew.com/products.htm.

The Sieck machines are the same as the Cowboy brand (see banner top site). The Adler 205-370 copy is a bit more expensive that the Juki copy.

Hi Walter, sorry for late replay. There has been Chinese copies from Juki 441 for many years now, and they starting to good. Today all German machines are also produced in China, and you will get the quality you pay for there. The todays 441 copy is the second generation "clone" machines. We call them clones when all parts are interchangeable . The 441 clone who are sold by our member dealers are improved versions with a higher foot lift, bigger hand wheels (on some) and set up to sew leather. With smooth feet's and feed dog to sew wegtan leather without making ugly marks on it. These machines are good value for the money, the member dealer are here to provide support and stand behind their products, who are made to their specifications. For factory use 24-7 you would choose a original Juki, for a saddler shop these machines will last until they become unmodern. You can also buy all kinds of saddler's attachments, like feet`s and special needle plates for doing all kind of operations. Member has used these machines for many years no and they get very good feed back. Tor

Is not possible to turn anything on the foot shaft, no allen screws on cam( pinch) or arm? What happens when you screws that foot bars spring collar on the top. When you move that upward is also makes the foot s timing a bit earlier (its must be the same as if the cam is lifting) What is that big screw behind the foot bar we do not see the end of in the picture?

OK, you got to make yourself some routines, put your free hand in your back pocket. I have long hands (still, he he.), using one hand I can keep the at a distance from the machine when I use it. If I have to use both my hands I have to bend over the machine. And I cant get my hand under the head anyway, its no room for than. A finger can be a pancake. I was scared of this before I started to use the machine, not any more. I have my safety distance and routines. I alone use the machine. Still you got to be careful with every tool we use. There are some difference from my machine to this, and mine works very well. I have not encountered any jobs it could not do yet. Do not be afraid to refurbish this old machine, If you have several K $ to buy a new one then you do that. Tor

Hi, it was Genava who paid 75$ for his machine , I got mine for free. The machine was for sale about three years ago for 6000 Norwegian krone`s (approx 1000 US$). I was about to buy it then, but my money went to other tools and machinery. I had forgotten all about the machine. Then three years later when cleaning up my email inn-box, I saw the mail again. And just for fun I checked if he have sold it. There are very few who do leather work in Norway, therefore he would not have many customers. And it was kind of a sad story, he could not feed his family working as an saddler. He had done eight years of training in the UK before starting up his own as a bag maker here in Oslo, so then he had to close down. The machine stood outside his old workshop under a big awning ( during winter and summer time all that time). He said, if you still wants the machine you can have it for free if you pick it up. Lucky story for me, but not for him. he has a small leather shop in his basement, while working in a different job. I promised him a big discount on a heavy stitcher I have for sale, and he need one. The machine did not turn easy around after standing idle for a long time, they normally do not rust inside. because there is allot of oil there. The oil becomes stiff, I had to pour big amount of paraffin (or diesel will work the same) inside all lube points, and force it to work again. Then I had to adjust the clutch mechanism, loosen it up. Then I rebuilt the motor to a single phase with two big capacitors to not loose any power. A coat with hammerite paint on the top. A other type of paint I got a tip on is car paint, several layers with clear top coat will stain all liquid including acetone (that loosen up hammerite) When you start it you have to let the motor built up its rpm, then you pull the lever and "BANG" as a heavy hammer blow on a leather covered anvil. There is not that slow oils pneumatic sound but a shorter very powerful "BANG". Some of its powers comes from a very short stoke, I think about 20 mm or so. It has kind of a bicycle crank mechanism that transferee the power to the big column that drives the moving head. I think you will have the possibilities to get a very nice machine out of that. I do not think it turns easy after standing idle that long, thats why you will not get a video of it working, or perhaps you will. You can use it as a bargaining trump card to get the price down. You have to restore it anyhow. Good luck Tor

Here is one very similar Shwabe to top dollar. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/H-Schwabe-Mechanical-Clicker-Press-Die-Cutting-/290957637496?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123 Tor

Hello Walter, the first four machines are not for sale, I use them my self. But a new juki TSC 441 head only is about 4500 Euro and a copy is about half compleete. You sew everything by hand? thats allot of work. your 5- 8 is the same as my 5-27, I used that before I got the Juki clone. Look at clone machines from Cobra and Cowboy or Sieck. These are copies of the Juki and set up to sew leather (not from Sieck, you must set up that yourself) These copies have a higher footlift and sews great. They are also built strong. The first three machines and the last machine are my users, and not for sale.Tor

Hi, these machines (including the 7 class) has big clumsy feet`s and would not be any useful on leather work. I will do better on awnings. You might have to do some modifying of it, these machines are used for big industrial harnesses and such. Good luck

Well, its a timing issue of the feed and the timing of the thread takeup spring. It will also affect the size of the thread loop underneath the needle plate, the needle can also cut the thread if the timing is off. Therefore, its possible you corrected the problem this way. The adjustment manual is in the download section of Pfaff`s web site if not already have it. On vertical hook machines you have the bobbin case opener who will be wrong with an timing fault too, it will affect the bobbin tension (its not a case on your machine). You better control all settings when you at it. If you do not find it I have it on pdf (it two versions depended of the machines age; one is.01.12, the other .06.09) Tor

Hi Bruce, Thats very nice stuff Hi Bruce, very beautiful plough, I have never seen any ploughs from Butler before. However, I too know the maker, he is listed in the Dictionary of leather tools too. The cornet knife must be a German Melzer and Feller, "Rossler" as Walter call him. As Walter already mention above. You can see this is a German Solingen style knife by the shape of the big blade, ferule and handle. Walter knows the tassel to be German, now I remember where I have seen it before. http://leatherworker...pic=45729&st=15 Remember this thread? look at post # 27 you see both a plough with the tassel and the horse shoe brand. We never got an answer from him about the makers of these, Walter you know them. They are both German then. Bruce I have to thank you once again for sending me the two eight " splitter blades for free, you are the best. Thank you very much, I have to shop some akevitt to you. I am exited to see that tassel plough too, I hope you will post it here. Have a nice day Tor

Hello Walter, I use sewing machines of course, currently I have nine machine but only uses four of them. Some are for sale and for backup. I use a Juki 441 clone with Efka 1550 DC position motor for the heavy stuff. It capable to sew up to 22 mm. of material (I have never tried, I do not sew that thick material). I am not finished setting up this machine yet (I am using it), i am building on a air foot lift and a needle cooler system. ( I have the parts, I only need some time. I do not have much of it). For medium and fine materials I use a Dürkopp Adler 267-373 flat bed with Efka DC 1600 and a Pfaff 345 H3 cylinder bed with Cobra servo and a speed reducer. I also use a long arm Singer 29K-72 for repair work and difficult seams, it has a clutch motor but I always hand crank it. Machines for backup and sale: Kochs Adler class 5-27 cyl. bed, bottom feed, jump foot, clutch with speed reducer and electronic speed limiter. In mint condition and full saddler's attachments pack. Adler 105-25 top and bottom feed cyl. bed with new 4 pole 600 W clutch and speed reducer and new table. Adler 204-64 bottom and needle feed with Efka variostop three phase motor. Singer 236W-100 top and bottom roller feed post bed clutch motor. Adler cl. 30-15 short arm small bobbin, black color shoe repair machine on treadle. And for sale for a friend complete shoe maker repair shop Hardo, Membus finisher bench etc. all machines. Two sewing machines: Pfaff top, bottom roller and needle feed with Efka variostop and a very good Adler long arm class 30, gray green color with 12 volts dc motor and treadle (perfect condition) All machines are ready to sew and set up for leather work, except the 105 who is not ready yet. I like do work with sewing machine and have mechanical education and back ground. Its kind of a hobby to me to refurbish machines, you mostly find me in the sewing machine forum. Here is some of the machines, I then have a skiving machine and a clicker. The rest are bench machines. Thanks Tor