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Hello Audrey, I use 120 for TKT 40 and 130 for tkt 25 and 30. When you sew (thin) textile material wrong needle would not be a problem, because the material has natural holes in it ( it would be a problem with thicker material). When you sew thick leather/material the needle have to make room for both the threads, using to small needles you will have stitch errors. Such as the material will stick to the needle, and the needle will break, bend and hit the sewing hook. etc. Thats why you get problems when you sewed two layers of leather. Use the thread needle comparison chart or the thread needle sliding test in the pin topic about needle sizing. Yes you have used the wrong sizes all a long, because the machine is that powerful it did the job even so. Right size needle is very important to get a good result when you sew thick material. Good luck to you Audrey. Have a nice day. Tor

Hello Macca, Walter has already answered your question. I have the same tool with the original knife; which is`nt anything special by the way. Thin steel and light wood. Nevertheless, it cuts alright. My tool also came with an wedge for cutting round pieces. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=45729&hl=%2Bnew+%2Bgerman+%2Bplough+%2Bgauge here is some pictures from the topic about it. Thanks Tor

Hi Walter, Here is another great piece, this looks like it is a bit bigger, how wide is it. It must have taken your father more than two years to pay for this machine, you better not sell it then. The wedge edge split of a strap is called a "lap skive", and a wedge shape to the left or the right of a work piece is simply called a skive. The also refer to paring the leather as a skive. This is a great looking machine, it looks like inside of a swiss watch. I have never seen the like of this one before either. Thank you for showing, I love to see machines like that. keep it up Tor

Hi Walter, beutiful machine, I have never seen the like of it before. Did you make the adjustment holes as well, or only the top thickness scale? Very nice machine and looks like it is in perfect condition. The last one is Bruces favorit yes. Thanks for showing. Tor

Dear Audrey, when you fold the leather over like that it would not move as much if it is two different layers of leather. Then its important to glue or staple them together to avoid them from move and lock to the needle. A size 18 is way to small for the tkt 20 thread (tex 135), you need a size 22 to 23 (Nm 140 to 160) for that thread; Or else it would be in trouble. I have used tkt 15 (tex 180) on the Adler 67-73. However, its not made for any bigger threads than tkt 20. Any thicker needles that 140, check the distance between the hooks and the needle (to avoid the needle hitting the hook, its adjustable) The 167 uses the same hook as the newer 267, 268 and 269 machines, you can buy a new hook with quick adjustable needle guide for these machines. (original Dürkopp Adler or aftermarket parts; such as Hirose and Cerliani) http://sew24.blogspot.no/2011/10/adjustable-needle-guard-for-hooks-for.html Both Gutterman and Serafil by Amman will work very well with this machine, I use the latter myself. The sizes Nm 120 to 160 as you have listed are European needle sizes, but every packet of needles are usually marked with Singer sizes too. Get some leather pointed needles either LR or D (diamond pointed). There is a pinned topic about needle sizing top of this forum you might find interesting. Good luck Tor

Thank you Walter, to bad the Spanish tools are nowhere to be found on the Internet. Even Spanish talking member have a hard time locating any. So they stopped in time 200 years ago, thats interesting. If anybody have any info about Spanish leather tools please let us know. You can go to Spain in the weekend when you live in Switzerland, like I did when I lived in Antwerp (Belgium) 20 years ago. I look forward to see the splitter. have a nice weekend. PS. Do you use a online German-English translator like Google translate. Here is a smart little English spell check I am using, you can use it anywhere by right clicking (with your right mouse button) and on every text. http://www.iespell.com/ You have to install it on your computer of course. It does not translate, only do spell checks Thanks Tor

Hi, I will look in to it. Please post a picture of your machine, then I might be able to help you with something that fit`s. The big and clumsy foot is the problem with these machines. The information I get about your machine is; its made for sewing polishing wheels and have a high lift of 40 mm. It also have a wheel gear (gear speed reducer). It comes with an attachment for sewing circular movements. This might been taken off, but originally it came like that. You have been lucky it had that high needle lift (40 mm. if its a subclass 7 and 7a), most of the class 20 subclasses only had 16 mm lift. The reason I asked about the motor was because you wrote "a 800w servo motor", not many motors are that powerful. Normally they are from 400 to 600 w, expensive high end system servos has some more power. These are very expensive, I have one who cost about 1000 $ (German Efka 1550- 321 control box, like the one on the Adler 120 picture). You can buy a good Chinese servo motor from 110 to 200 $, I have a Cobra 220 with 600w http://www.leatherma...php?category=22 (145 $) .These motors cost about 75 $ in shipping from LA (USA) to Scandinavia, I just bought one for a friend a couple of days ago, so the info is up to date. When your machine have a gear on the hand wheel this will be more than strong enough, you do not need any extra speed reducer (like they use on the big 441 clones; Cobra 4 and Cowboy 4500). I will attach some pictures (from my sewing machine folder) of the class 20 and the successor the 120. I guess the 120 use the same foot as yours, parts for this machine is till available (German custom made and therefor extremely expensive, they might also be avaiable from DA to a normal price) The first two pictures is from Finn.no , these was for sale very cheap and was standing outside as garden decoration in Norway. PM sent about the add. is sent. Tor

Good luck. Tor

Hej Sverige, I am sorry, but it will be hard to find new part and presser feet`s. The machine is obsolete. Check with Thomas Brinkhoff head of spare parts DA for any available parts or custom made part. I do not think any Singer parts will fit, but i cannot be sure. I did see two machines for sale as "garden art" 1000,- NOK some years ago. I can try to find the add if its still on the web and inform you if you are interested. What kind of 800W servo motor, Efka or Ho Sing? Tor

Hello Eric, nice set up and interesting reading. The needle cooler you made, does it only blow when the needle descend or all the time? ( I know we spoke about this before, but you wrote"when the needle descend") Thanks Tor

Hi Audery, I had a 67-73 ( who is exactly the same machine as yours, but older). I do not have this machine anymore, I sold it. However, I have a video of it sewing 11 mm. ( I believe it was bridle leather). The Machine was set up with a Cobra 600 w brush-less servo motor, and either a Nm 120 or a Nm 140 leather needle. With the 120 needle I use TKT 40 (Tex 69) polyester or nylon thread, with the 140 needle I use TKT 20 (Tex 135) thread. I made a video for the person who bought it and tested how thick it would sew, myself I have heavier machines for thick leather and would never use it for such work. If I had to use it for heavy work I would take every precaution not to break any needles. I would use Nm 140 and TKT 20 thread ( Tex 135 thread with Singer size 22 leather needle). I would glue or stapled my leather together first to avoid the layers to move and lock the needle. Use diamond or LR point needles and crank up the foot pressure to prevent the leather from moving (when the thread loop is formed). If the leather is hard or old I would use oil, water or saddle soap to soften it. This is not a heavy stitcher. Nevertheless, it should manage 8 mm. if it is not too hard. If you are using size 18 (Singer) equivalent to NM 110 (1,1 mm thick with a caliper if you do not know the sizes), thats to thin and it will bend away from the hook, because of the heavy thread tension you get sewing that thick. Thats why your machine is unable to make the thread loops. With heavy leather the needle thread relationship is more important than with thin material too. Using the machine up to its limit every adjustment must be right to avoid stitch errors. What kind of thread are you using, does it have any TeX or TKT (Ticket) sizing?. Is the layers glued or stapled together? Check you hook and bobbin house for damages before trying again. Good luck Tor

Hi Walter, you know you got my attention when it comes to splitters and especially Spanish tools. I have been looking after Spanish tools for a long time and I am not alone. Several US members of Spanish heritage is interested too. So please bring it on. About splitters; I received two 8" mod # 86 splitter blades from Bruce, he knows I have been looking everywhere for one since the Norwegian company TROMAS AS ruined mine. Bruce gave me those two blades for free, thank you very much Bruce. They are of cause old blades, with a little sharpening/polish they will be very good. Walter, we look forward to see some Spanish tools. The Spanjols had to have some good tools to, they have great knifes and sword traditions. How come we never see any of these tools. Thanks Tor

I suppose you talk about the French boxing attachment, and not the double French upholstery seam. I have never tried it, I suppose it would work. As like all other attachments who steals material height, you would need to build it as low as possible. And perhaps make it so it include the feed dog for a needle guide. If you have or know someone with a 3D printer you can make several prototypes and test them on the machine. It will save you allot of trial and error work. Good luck and keep us informed about the result. thanks Tor

Hi, yes thats a copy of the Singer 27 B2B http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/27b.htm . I believe it has a higher lift and uses needle system 1000. Seiko was made in Japan, but now I think they are made in China too. These machines are much cheaper that the Adler 120. I know of one original Adler 120 for sale (brand new, unused) here in Norway. Tor

Hello, the H4 is the heaviest version of the old Pfaff machines, it uses a longer needle and have more foot tension ( and more) than the H3 and H2. The Pfaff 545 is later model and the same machine as your 145, they have interchangeable parts. You can buy feet's and attachment to very good prices at http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/ Your machine uses the same foot as the 335,345 and 1245. Prices from 9 to 15 $ a set, you pay with Paypal. Order a drop down sewing guide when you at it ( suspending guide, see guide at the top of this site http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/). If you look at my topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40567&hl=dropdown about installing a guide on the Adler 267 and Pfaff 345. The installation will be the same on your machine as on my Pfaff 345. (same bracket, the guides have all the same mounting holes). That looks like a big strong dog, what breed is it? Good luck Tor

Hello Jim, be prepared to open your check book, these monsters cost around 200 000,00 Euro. Thats an absurd price for a sewing machine. However, its hand made on license from DA. Tor

Every AC motor is originally a 3 phase motor, you rebuild them to a single PH with mirroring one phase, and use a big capacitor. You loose some power on the motor this way. I have a friend who rebuilt motors, on big motors (1 KW or more) he use an extra capacitor and do it in such way that he loose very little power. He rebuilt my clicker motor to a single phase and it works better now than it did on three phase (it was some other faults on that motor too). You could change the motor for a bigger single phase to prevent the power lost on converting it to single. Do not use a frequency converter on such motor, because then you would loose more power that way. Convert it with extra big capacitors to keep the start up force on it, when the motor runs on top rpm it will be enough power anyway. If you can buy something good for 400 $ that does not need any work, then you should do it. Thats not much when it comes to a clicking press. Tor

http://www.ebay.com/...=item43be6d3778 You see this one has a rebuilt double electrical trigger on it. Everything is possible. Look at the last picture and you see how they did it, with an electrical solenoid. That would not be difficult to build on. Tor

HI Vincent, please post a picture of it. Its probably a thread lube box, but then again. I have to see it before answering. The only documentations I know of is on this blog; of Thomas Brinkhoff, head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler. http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html I thinks its only part books available for it. However, you could maybe learn something from reading about its successor the Adler 120. Good luck Tor

It would be easy to make a spring loaded linkage block on the top of the moving head, that block the downward travel of the trigger linkage. Then a small handle you have to bend aside with the free hand. Then you need both your hands to trigger it. I do not want to be nonchalant about safety, I am careful working with all machines. You can build on a belt cover, I have belt covers on all my machines (except one Pfaff). I have eleven leather working machines (not included bench machines) some are old others new. Some of the best ones are old. I do not do mass production, I use my clicker for both embossing and cutting. I was doing mass producing I would have purchased a new machine. (By the way there was no other used machines for sale where I live). Now I see no reason why I should spend several K of dollars for a new one, when this do the job just as fast and good. I started with needles and awls, bought inn machines when I could afford it. Most members here starts with old museums pieces, I do not see any problems with that. No loans here, I own my stuff myself. Then no bank will come and take your business away either.

First; the hand wheel can not slip or move on these machines, thats not possible. ( I asked for a picture of the top of the machine, the screw I am talking about is on the top of the machine behind the foot bar. Every thing related to the foot bar will be important). I do not believe Ferdinand made these machine mod`s without possibility to adjust them. However, if he did that it means you got to adjust the rest of the machine to match the foot timing.You said the machine feed thinner material good, but failed to feed thicker. The knurled screw on the top of the machine that release the foots spring pressure, back it off until more than half of it is over the machine head. The foot height should be 12 mm when lifted by the hand lift ( on the original machine) make yourself an 12 mm. distance piece of leather or wood etc.. Take of the face plate, on the bottom of the foot bar (where the spring ends) its a block with a screw (or two). Lift the foot by hand and adjust the height to be equal with the distance piece. Please post a picture of the top and I will look at it later today. The original adjustment manual its full of errors as a result of bad translation, check the other models and comapare with them if you suspect writing errors in it. http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205/s_204_gb.pdf Tor

Here is the Cobra http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?category=11 The saddlers attachments http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?category=11 And here is the Cowboy http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb4500.html Attachments http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html A shorter arm : http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3500.html in China http://cowboysew.com/products.htm.

The Sieck machines are the same as the Cowboy brand (see banner top site). The Adler 205-370 copy is a bit more expensive that the Juki copy.

Hi Walter, sorry for late replay. There has been Chinese copies from Juki 441 for many years now, and they starting to good. Today all German machines are also produced in China, and you will get the quality you pay for there. The todays 441 copy is the second generation "clone" machines. We call them clones when all parts are interchangeable . The 441 clone who are sold by our member dealers are improved versions with a higher foot lift, bigger hand wheels (on some) and set up to sew leather. With smooth feet's and feed dog to sew wegtan leather without making ugly marks on it. These machines are good value for the money, the member dealer are here to provide support and stand behind their products, who are made to their specifications. For factory use 24-7 you would choose a original Juki, for a saddler shop these machines will last until they become unmodern. You can also buy all kinds of saddler's attachments, like feet`s and special needle plates for doing all kind of operations. Member has used these machines for many years no and they get very good feed back. Tor

Is not possible to turn anything on the foot shaft, no allen screws on cam( pinch) or arm? What happens when you screws that foot bars spring collar on the top. When you move that upward is also makes the foot s timing a bit earlier (its must be the same as if the cam is lifting) What is that big screw behind the foot bar we do not see the end of in the picture?