Trox

The Swivel knife is new to me. The other knife is a Furrier`s knife used by fur makers (furrier`s). They use razor blades and thin utility blades, here in Scandinavia every leather shop sells them. They are not expensive. Tor

Nice story, all I know about this; is that Matt Dillon in Gunsmoke was played by James Arness (AKA James Aurness). His father came from same place as my father did, Kristiansund in Norway. His fathers name was Rolf C. Aurnes, Aurnes is a place not far from Kristiansund. He changed his name to Aurness after he came to America in 1887. His son James (Marshal Dillon) later lost the "u" to Arness, It sounds much more American does it not. Matt Dillon and Gunsmoke was huge in Norway when I was a kid, the hero being of Norwegian heritage probably helped allot too. Thanks Tor

Hello, remember your needle position before stop to you move your/ lift your foot. Make sure the hook has locked the top thread before you move the work or lift the foot. See if that helps. If I have general problem with uneven top tension, I will check the top thread threading and use all available thread guide holes on the machine. Then you get more control over the top tension. It can be to double the times the thread goes true the top threading guide for example. You also takes the twist out of the thread that way and makes the tension more stable. However, Its seams like you have a problem that are related to moving your work/ lifting the foot. Then its related to the needle position or take up spring travel. Good luck Tor

Its not an exact replica of a 29K-72. The -72 has a long arm and big bobbin, the machine in the picture is a short arm with small bobbin. Not that this matters much anyway. This is a cheap clone clone model, it do not cost much regardless of brand. Try out machine and support. Good luck Tor

Just what my Singer 29K-72 silver blue color has together with allot of other casting errors inside the head too. My advise is getting an Adler class 30. LOL

Hi Marjan, thank you. I use to deal with Bosko Ko, seams like he is family. Perhaps his not around anymore, It was a personal email: bosko att kwokhing dot com (anti spam display format). I will try the other email. Thanks Tor

Hi all leather tool freaks, I have been looking for a place to buy this style; thin blade brass handled pattern cutting knife for a long time now. Blanchard's L’Indispensable Knife is just what I am looking for. To buy this knife you have to place a minimum order of 100 Euro with Vergez Blanchard a Paris. Not anymore, you can now buy this knife Blanchard knife from http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-tools/indispensable-knife USA for 44 $ including the blade. I just ordered mine from them, because I need this tool now and nothing else. With Blanchard it cost 23 euro ( 31 $ including the blade). Then of course you have to buy something else to fulfill the minimum order of 100 Euro. I know that many of you have looked for this tool for a long time, bought similar tools with thinner blades (not any good) and some has also made their own. I followed an auction on Ebay a couple of moth ago where one went for nearly 100 $, crazy. Its been available hidden inside Blanchard's web site for some time (I do not know for how long), I have not seen it. Thanks Tor

Hi Jason, do you have more of these skin? in advance thanks Tor

You are both welcome. Tor

Hello Darren, I hope you are well too! He asked for opinions thats true. You like that Seiko because its a retro clone of one of your good old beloved Singer`s Tor

Hi, yes they try to make it complicated. Singer mostly have timing marks on the needle bar that eliminates the use of these special tools. No do not worry, it just depend what has moved; the hook gear or the needle bar. Since you do not know, you got to know how to adjust everything properly. It matters because of the feed timing. If it was just the needle and the hook it do not matter what you move on. But you have the feed? ( bottom, top and needle feed) that should be in relation ship to the needle/ hook too. There are special tool for all the Adler's too, I never use them because I do not have them. I find and set the needle height right with a caliper. Those special tools makes it easier to get it right, thats all. About the thread; find Cowboy Bob video on Youtube on how to thread the Cowboy 4500. There you see how to place the thread rack right, all these things apply to every industrial sewing machines. And its very important to avoid problems with the top thread. Good luck Tor

Hi Gordond (not Gordon), I know a harness maker who uses two Union lockstitch machines and one Classic # 1. Other than that there are only shoe related short troat needle and awl machines around here in Norway too. The Singer 97 I have only seen pictures of. Here German Adler machines are as common used by professionals as Singer are by domestic users. Its not many Heavy old cylinder beds to be found, I have a few standing around. Like Adler class 5 and Adler class 105. As well as some class 30`ties , a Pfaff and a Singer postbed. I have a complete Cobblers/shoe maker shop for sale for a friend (with top German machines). In my workshop I use a 441 clone, a Dürkopp Adler 267-373 with Efka motors, a Pfaff 345-H3 and a 29K- 72 for my sewing. I do have other machines as clicker; skiver and splitter machines. Even if I cant find room for anymore, if I stumble over an needle and awl; I bet I would try to bring it back home. By the way, people tell me that NZ look very much like Norway (Norwegians that is). That might be because its as close to the south pole as we are to the North? I do not know, I bet you have a better climate than us ( warmer, milder that is). However, this winter have been the warmest of my fifty four yet. Normally we have snow and cold to mid April. Now we have green grass and been without snow for more than a month already. Its very strange, I do not miss the snow. Nevertheless, I like the winter to be cold, white and dry rather than wet and muddy. Nice talking to you. Thanks Tor

Hello JDTagish, Leather decoration stamps has been around for quite some time. We have to go bit further back in history than the leather factory and Mr. Al Stolhman. Joke aside, according to pictures of old tool and old leather work, these stamps looked just like yours. Here is some history of leather decoration and book binding http://www.gutenberg.org/files/40286/40286-h/40286-h.htm These tools and techniques was used by every kind of leather craft men not only book binders. And as far back as the primitive times. People tend to take better care of books than shoes, saddles and bags. That might be the reason we mainly see this old art on book covers. Some great looking leather artwork in this book. Tor

Hello Gordon, he probably very busy, it has happened to me too. However, he always answer in the end. No, need for it anyway, you have your answer already. Heavy, nice piece of machinery, we do not see much of these here in Scandinavia. Good luck with it. Tor

Hello, Here is an other link to that cloud drive map. The map containing two pdf files, a part list and the user/adjustment manual. http://shares.1hund.com/s#b8484815-714d-4906-9b0a-f168589f325b/torrougseth.clouddrive.1hund.com/441/ The link is valid for one month from today. Tor

Hello Steve, all is well here Thank you, I hope you are too! Tor

Thanks Greg, I look forward to hear what price level they will be at. I am afraid it will be out of reach for my small shop, thought. Tor

Hi, first change your needle for a new one (it takes care of 90% of all stitch errors). Then make sure to use left twisted thread and place the first thread guide in center over the spool (at the thread rack). Then make sure you use three holes in the thread guide on top of the machine (two or more) . This to take the twink out of the thread before it passes in to your tension disk. I do this when I have trouble with twisted top thread. If you have problem with the bobbin thread, your bobbin probably is unevenly winded. Get the right tension on the bobbin winder, not to hard, and wind the thread evenly on to the bobbin . What subclass is your machine and what needle size do you use for adjusting it. This might also happen when you use to heavy thread. Control you hook tip for burr, nicks and cuts. You can polish/repair such with a fine ceramic stone. If nothing of this helps, check all adjustments one more time. And do them in the order of the manual. Good luck Tor

Hi, you missed a spot..LOL

Why do you not ask Dan Naegle in Campbell Randall, his member name is just CampbellRandall http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showuser=6741

The Pfaff 1245 is the best performer and quality of the lot, spare part are expensive but you rarely need them. Quality on older pfaff are superior to most other sewing machines. Even by todays standard the Pfaff 1245 is one of the greatest performer in its class (check subclass number/type on it for stitch lenght). The ones that use them do not trade them before they have too. Most common wear parts are available aftermarket, like hooks, bobbin cases feet's and plates. Its a very good machine second to non. Then your choice must be based on the wear of the individual machine. The Pfaff 145 is the grand father of the 1245 and have insufficient stitch length for the sunbrella jobs. It need to be sewn with long stitches to minimize shrinkage. The particular Juki class is unknown to me, quality on Japanese are very good. But it is a copy of a old European/ perhaps US made machine. The Seiko is too, a Singer 211 clone. Old technology compared to the 1245. Tor

Yes, sometimes my life feel that way too. It a good picture, it deserves a bigger column space. Tor

Update: The new Durkopp Adler 967 H flatbed is out for sale in the shops now and the 969 H cylinder bed will follow soon. I have no price yet, but check with your closest DA dealer. The head of DA spare part, Thomas Brinkhoff warrants me that this machine is entirely made in Europe. I quote: "Here are also some comparisons between Durkopp Adler class 204 and the new 967: Workspace: +65% Stitch length: +25% Foot lift: +50% Material thickness that can be sewn: +30% Foot stroke: +20% Bobbin capacity: +70% Sewing speed: +56% Further, there are all the new features like automatic lubrication, integrated stitch length adjustment, quick stroke adjustment, thread trimmer with 40mm remaining ends, 2nd pneumatic thread tension, jog-dial hand wheel with power stitch function (Move the machine with your fingertip!), integrated, motor driven bobbin winder, multifunctional operation panel, integrated keypad, integrated LED sewing light and integrated Dürkopp Adler sewing drive and control. It is a new concept with outstanding features for customers with very difficult and thick materials with highest quality and productivity requirements." http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/products/htype/index.html He hopes nobody will start to compare these new machines with copies of old Adler and Juki machines, he clearly have a point there. I also tells me the "postbed version will follow in the next months". (I am not sure if it should be the cylinder bed version or not, thats what we all are waiting for anyway). I be back with more info if and when I have it. Thanks Tor

Thats good, sometimes the hook shaft on these machine have damages after the gears setting screws. From being adjusted allot. Then a clamp will be of good help to lock the needle bar when you move the gear. I had to remove the hole hook shaft on my Pfaff 345 to loosen the gear, it would not turn on the shaft. It can happen to all old machines. When you do these adjustments, then do them all. Start with the first one and adjust the feed, stitch length everything at once. They all are connected to each other. For best result control them all. Andrew, is that an goat in your picture, do you live on a farm? Tor