Trox

Thank you Walter, I saw the tensioner, it looks very nice. Good job. I am in no hurry with this machine. I will wait until you write me about the heating elements. Thank you very much. Strange burnishing roller on that leather edge burnishing/polishing machine,I use a wood roller on mine. The rubber material looks like some kind of sex toy, pardon my language. I suppose it made to get maximum friction, does it work good? Do you use it with wax or something else. Thanks Tor

Hello Walter, very nice creasing machines. I see one of them has the heating element outside (on the top) of the shaft. Those this work as well as the others. I am planning to make an creaser, embossing machine out of that pinking machine I bought the other day. It has double tension , the lever on the back moves the top shaft up and down. Then you can also adjust the bottom brass roller up and down. There are two ball bearings inside the bottom brass roller. The bottom roller system can be changed for an other solution. For the top shaft I can buy embossing wheels or creasing wheels. (I can also have them made of course). It has allot of tension power, because the pinking wheels must cut true heavy leather. I think it will become an excellent little strap embossing and creasing machine. With some work of course. I am interesting in your opinion, and if an heating element like the one in your picture can be used on this machine too. Where did you buy this heating elements. (on the machine you made, I know you did not made them all) In advance thank you. Tor

Hej Sverige, You need to find a subclass H4 or at least a H3. The H2 will not take any heavy threads. There are lots of these for sale in Norway at reasonable prices. I assumed you where going to use it on leather. The 145-H2 has triple feed but very light duty rating. The later 545 is exactly the same machine too. They are frequently up for sale at Finn.no. Look for a H4, thats the heaviest subclass. The "L" is simply stands for leather, then the machine has smooth feet`s and feed dog (under transportør på Norsk). You will find them cheaper in Norway than in Sweden, there are no marked for them here. Good luck Tor

Thanks Itch, I recieved them both, it looks like a very good manual. Tor

Hello Itch, thank you for the updates on the Fortuna machine. Your machine does an impressive job, I cant wait to try out my machine. I got to warn you about posting your email address in the open forum. Hacker harvests email addresses and soon you will be bombed with spam and viruses. If you still want to display your email use this format " Larryxd att gmail dot com " . Because the robots/agents they use do not catch this format. Delete or modify your email by editing the post, or talk to Johanna. The forum moderator can also help you. Email sent. thanks Tor

Looking good Itch, I cant wait to try out my machine. I hope to get it tomorrow, if not very soon. What is the approx weight of that baby, its allot smaller that todays big machines in size. Thats one thing I like about it, my shop is pretty stuffed as it is. I got to move around stuff to get it in. I also have a friend who have huge experience with these, he had allot of them before. Now he have a modern state of the art machine. His nick is Leather Guru. Thanks for showing Itch and have a nice weekend. Tor

Hello, I have six big Adler and Dürkopp Adler machines. And I do have a 441 clone too. I do not recognize the "incredible expensive" spare part price that you describe and I buy my parts from Dürkopp Adler, and live in one of the worlds most expensive countries too (Norway). When it comes to clone and aftermarket parts for Juki and Adler's: its only hooks, plates and foot sets that are available. All clone machines ( there are a few exceptions) uses the original (copied) machines spare part program anyway. The reason most buy the 441 clone instead of the Adler is the price, the Adler clone is more expensive and have less foot lift (usually only 20 mm). An other reason is the available attachment`s, and it`s price. You will normally get a longer arm on the 441 too. You can buy 205-370 clones with longer arms too, then you have to pay even more. Both machines uses the same needle and hook and have many similarities. I like the Adler's foot lift lever on top of its head, it has a very nice stitch too. When I consider all these facts, then the 441 clone is the winner of the clones. You get more machine for less money. I am talking about clone machines now, when we talk about the original machines its a different story. Thanks Tor

Hello Itch, I am Norwegian living in Oslo (Norway). I do have regular contact with a German company who sells these (used). I know that Dan Naegle in Campbell Randall sell them. I know he refurbish old Fortuna machines like this and sell both German and Italian leather machines. He knows these very well and I am pretty sure he have manuals and part lists for them. I know he have for allot of other German machines and I have seen him selling these before. He can get you the screws too. If not perhaps I can get them for you, I am living in a "metric world" and I use allot of my time refurbish German leather sewing machines. You are lucky having your buddies around you who knows them. I too have friends that knows them, but not living close by. I do not know the number on my machine yet, otherwise I would have asked Fortuna about the same. I cannot find a download section on their web site, however I am sure they will help you if they still have manuals for them. Yes allot of people still uses these old models, I am sure they are good. If there are any standard metric screws you cannot get hold of, do not hesitate to ask me. I will contact you when I get my machine in shop, perhaps it also comes with part list and manuals. Good luck Thanks Tor

The old Singer 29K are very cheap where I live, it allot cheaper here because nobody asks for them. However, if you want one with more than 4 mm stitch length you must pay more. Check the stitch length before you buy one, under 3 mm. then its crap. Thats the simple test of quality, new condition 4,5 mm (or more on some models, like some new Adler class 30) Everybody need a patcher in his workshop, but its of no use to you if it cant match the stitch length needed on a repair. Small stitch length is nothing a new hook can fix. You must rebuild or shim up the whole head, its allot of work (or money, depended of method). So why not take a change at a cheap model instead. Darren also offers warranty, thats great stuff for that amount of money. Tor

Hello Itch, nice find. These are hard to find at an decent price all over the world, where I live I have only seen two for sale in the last ten years. I just bought one of them a couple of days ago. It is not in my shop yet, I hope it will be during this week. It looks just like yours and should work fine. I have not tested it yet but I trust it will. Since I am new to this machine (I suppose you are too) I be happy to share experiences with you. I hope you will do the same. Thank you Tor

We have an Australian member (Anne Bonnys Locker) who sells them. They are used on the streets in Vietnam for making and repairing shoes. One model is bigger than the other and can use heavy threads. You can get very cheap parts for them, It is a cheap alternative to an expensive Patcher. It is made of the Claes elastic pattern and is about the same age as the Adler class 30 and Singer cl.29K (and U). I think you will get some stitch length here for a cheap dollar. Alternatively, you can buy a used Singer with under 3 mm stitch length left for the same price. You do not have to be a rocket scientist to change a part or two on this machine. It looks like simple solution, simple things are often the best. Their feedback are not bad, Australians uses them to mend horse blankets. When you see them in use in the street in Asia, then they cannot be that bad If poor people take their changes on it, thats good enough proof of quality for me). I think there are different manufacturer of them, you can read about them here https://www.facebook.com/AnneBonnysLocker . Ask question to someone who have tried them before you make up your mind. personally I would take my changes on one, If I needed one. Its very cheap for a new machine, you can buy two. Tor

I agree with Gregg, I have never heard of any 205 or 204 machines made in China. They are made by German or by the Czech Minerva factory. The Czech are famous for their great industrial history, the best German WW2 weapons are made there. When Germans want to produce something outside Germany they choose the Czech`s because they are very good at it. If you buy a Dürkopp Adler you will get a very good product, do not worry. There are some DA product made in China, like the new white 267-373, 069-373, some special machines and some textile machines. The M types are made by Minerva, so it looks like most of the leather machines are made in other countries than China. I am not 100% sure about any of this, this only my opinion. (I have never seen proof of things being otherwise and I do not work in Dürkopp Adler). However, I would buy any 205-370 regardless of color too. Thanks Tor

Thank you Steve, I too prefer to go slow on my 441 machine. When I talk about speed this is for factory purpose. What the new 967 and 969 H machines will do remains to see, the data's looks very promising. Yes I saw something about the class 7 in that thread, but I am not sure if thats what you meant. Can you direct me to your post please. I do not use these big needles myself; I think Bob Kowar (Cowboy Bob) might have some 1000 needles in stock. I am not sure, ask him. I got an very nice deal on an Fortuna band knife splitter here two day ago, and got an old Adler class 5-25 on the deal. It was stuck, rusted. I lubricated it with some paraffin (lamp oil) and it turned after a few minutes. It still have some rust inside (I do not know why), I think it have to be soaked in diesel for some days. It turns fine and look very good. Its a top and bottom feed machine. Regards Tor

Hello Walter, very nice ploughs. It is very interesting to see these German pattern ploughs. About the knife grind I totally agree with you, I prefer the same type of edge; left side only. It then compress the leather against the guide, its the best type of edge on a plough gouge. The reason I repeat this is because we had an discussion about plough knife-edges in the "leather tools" forum before. Thank you for sharing your history with us. Tor

Hello, if you read the old manual i found in this topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49430 you will see several methods of coloring leather, mostly staining, dying. It was several ways to do it, its all in there. Tor

HI Macca, you have really been busy. Nice collection you have there now. I liked that eyelet setter, very nice. Tor

Thank you Macca, this one starts high. Today I did a very good buy on a Fortuna band knife splitter, a big box with allot of clicking dies (shoe related mostly), A very nice little United shoe machine pinking machine with many tools (bench machine, it can be used as an embosser too) several rolls of leather and vinyl etc. On the purchase the seller gave me an old Adler class 5-25 head for free. It was stuck, I used an half hour and half a liter diesel (lamp oil) and now it turns, it looks good too. A bit rust inside, it will come off. I do not want to tell you the price yet, I can tell you it was very... very cheap. I think this will be my best one so far, because the band knife machine is normally priced very high. The old man who sold it to me could not use any of his stuff anymore and was happy to get rid of it. The machine works very well. Its a machine just like this one ( but not this one), I will post a picture of it later when I have it in my shop. I have to get this one in my shop before I buy any more, I am completely stuffed. Thanks for telling me, I will see how high it goes. Here is a picture of that pinking machine, it is some more option on it you can put a V belt on it and its a pulley on a shaft behind machine too ( you do not see it on this pic). I also found a small nice stove for heating finishing tools (like creasers and such) It needs some cleaning up of course. Tor

By the looks of it its only the new DA 267-373 (made after 2003) and the DA 069 (same as the old 69) of the DA`s heavy machines (triple feeds) who is made in China. Some overlocks and special machines. The rest of the machines made in China are textile machines. All other leather related machines are made of Czech Minerva. This is what it looks like reading their websites anyway. With Pfaff there is an other story I think. Tor

Hello Steve, Thanks for showing those old beauties, we both know that quality will never come back to us. Looking good that 43, I too have a 5-27. I use it as an backup machine, its a very nice machine. Back to todays world of sewing machines. I am not sure of the production site of these new machines. I know they produce several classes in joint operations in China, France and perhaps Italy. They also have a factory in Czech Republic ( Minerva), they produced the big 204/205 machines there and now the new M type there. You know Czech Republic had the world best factories of technical stuff, like guns, tools etc. The best German guns from the WW2 came from there. The Da company still is located in Bilefeld, Germany. I believe they have their quality control there. I believe DA still have a very strict quality control too. Even when Chinese business mens have bought parts of the company (and control it), its in nobodies interest to ruin the brand. The Chinese's Shanggong group is a holding company that owns several Chinese sewing machine companies, and are the subsidiary owner (with more than 50% of the shares) of the DA group, Pfaff and KSL special machines. The German companies still operates in Germany and follow German laws. I cannot find any info on where these new H types are produced, I see they use several parts from the M type. I will ask about it when I get more info from Thomas Brinkhoff. I still look upon DA to be a German sewing machine company. I look forward to try this new machine with a electronic hand wheel and integrated new DA motor. It has an impressive capacity, it can sew very thick and still handle delicate operations such in a saddlery. It will sew much thicker material than the Seiko CH-8b who only have 20 mm foot lift (969 H has 30 mm foot lift) and do it much faster too. The machine is currently in exhibitions and soon in the show rooms to try out. I look forward to it Tor

That was an expensive stitching pony (clamp) it looks good. Here is the Norwegian stitching horse with steel legs. http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/annonse?finnkode=42320432&searchQuery=J%F8rn+jensen Its expensive but not so much as the Swiss one. This is 2990 Nok = 506 US$ or 381 Euro. They also make a couple of Geifuss`s here; in V and U profile (U and V grooving iron). Norway and Switzerland are among the world most expensive countries to shop in. Tor

Hello Friends, If anybody deserves to win (buy) that Machine à parer Mayer Flamery (splitter) it is you Macca. "What goes around comes around" they say, and thats true too. Very nice job there my friend. Simon, Thats a very nice Plough you found there, straight and very good visible markings on the ruler. Use Dremel 538 nylon compound brush on it, its magical. Brush in one direction on the brass (same as the markings), it will look good brushed (some like them polished too, but then they it have to be spotless or else it wont look good). The 538 works especially good on surface rust, I use it before polishing the steel. German tool makers used the best metal available, but often only painted the wooden shafts. I do not understand that decision. You may know that ROK`s (from Denmark) alcohol leather stain work very well on wood too, all our knife makers use it. When you have removed the surface rust on this tool it will look like new, its a very good tool pattern too. I like to have the knife bevel on the left side (then it compress the leather against the straight edge) and flat on the left side. Others like the knife to have double edges. I do not understand why you are embarrassed to show of this nice tool, remember Walter has been in business more than 30 years, and inherited his Father and grandfathers tool too. It will be hard for anyone to match his collection, he has one of the worlds greatest/finest collections of user leather tools. Only one that sell tools like Bruce will be in his class. And we have still not seen the end of it. If that tells me anything; its alright to keep on buying. Thank you Walter, Your tools and knowledge are amazing. Keep on posting. Thanks Tor

Hello friends, I missed this one http://www.ebay.ca/itm/OUTIL-ANCIEN-MACHINE-a-PARER-de-BOURRELIER-CORDONNIER-CUIR-LEATHER-SHAVE-/290975709509?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123#ht_421wt_1162 somebody got them self a very nice Mayer Flamery Parer. It had to be a quick sale, Is it not the same as one of yours Walter?

Hello Bruce, Yes it is a tragedy. I wonder when I saw it the first time and I wonder now, why anybody want to give away such work. There is no honor or respect in doing so. By the way Bruce, did you get my email? Back to German tools. Walter, Thats a nice collection of punches, one narrow and one wide out of every oblong punch. They look real good. Do you use your pinking punches much, what are you using them for? Now I understand why I never found any German tool maker on the Internet. I been searching for countless hours to find German leather tool. I did not want to stop because I knew Germany had as rich tradition as France and England when it comes to saddlery. They made everything else so why not leather tools, the reason was that they kept the makers secret. Thats a sin, and its all about discipline. It would not happen anywhere else that the craft mens are so loyal to their contractors, in any other country they would sell to the highest bidder and behind their back. When you visit that last tool maker take your video camcorder/camera with you and put it all on tape/film. Talk to him about his patterns, he have to give them to somebody who will use them in the future. Or take care of them so they do not get lost like the rest. And if he are planning to make more after your new punches (not that I think you need any more of them), please let me know. You told me he is an old man too, I hope he lives for many years to come. I drink to his health (Coca Cola I am driving). Thanks for showing us your wonderful tools, I learn something new every time and enjoy it very much. Keep it up Tor

You Are a very sportive man then, I did some bicycling years ago - Marathon races like Trondheim-Oslo race (530 km). Buts thats years ago, now I only walk my dogs; long trip`s every day. I think thats is more healthy than pressing your body to it maximum all the time like all people like to do now. You use up your body reserves this way, you better just keep it in shape by being normal active. Para gliding and cave diving seems like allot of fun. We use to go to the river Spa in Malmedy for canoing when I lived in Belgium, thats was also fun. Then we went to the French Rivera in the weekends to play on the beach, we lived in the center of Europe (Antwerp). A couple of hours to Paris, five hours to London, one hour and twenty minute to Amsterdam. Try doing a couple of hours in my country, you will not get far. The distance from Oslo to Norkapp (the most Northern point of Norway) is about the same as Oslo - Milan (Italy). Every time you are telling me that a German tool maker is dead, it making me want to cry. Why want anybody of the German young people want to keep on their great traditions. Everybody just want to use computers today, nobody want to be craft mens any more..lazy bastards... OK have a good night. Later Thank you Tor

Very nice Walter, (you won the fotball match by the way, Norway play way to bad to participate in the world championship. But Soccer might not interest you much? Its also way out of topic) Back to your nice tools again. There is that maker name again, on the plier in pic # 6319, your post # 124. The same maker stamp as on the knife Macca sent me, who makes those tools Walter. Its German is it not ? Nice ebony handle on than tool from Stoltz à Paris. I know it means pride in German and in Norwegian it means the same "Stolt". Norwegian is a German language too. But seriously in French its only a name, a German name too I guess. I have been looking for French tool makers listings on the web. I found this site with maker stamps from Thiers, http://www.couteaux-jfl.com/marques.htm where they made knifes. I do not know if they made any leather tools there, changes are they did some. The center of French leather tools has to be Paris, no doubt about it. I wish I could speak better French (its very bad, it comes from experience driving a truck "LKW" down there for some years) Thanks Tor