Trox

This is a old machine and before they started to use H subclasses (I guess, since it misses on the plate) Normally (on later machines) the "B" always stands for version B. "17" stands for sewing equipment class number (which feed dog, foot and so on) "S" stands for "Stoff"= fabric and "L"= for leather and so on. Where are you based? in case I find some old Pfaff parts laying around. Tor

You can forget about original Pfaff parts, then its cheaper to buy a new machine. Example Pfaff 345 binding needle plate $900,- They are hand made in Germany and are out of the question if you want to keep your budget low. There are old broken sewing machines laying all over the world, it was made allot of these 335`s. Everybody used this class, small leather, jeans, synchronized binding work and so on. Its a nice little machine for small project and thin threads (max tex 69 or tkt 40). They where made of the best German steel ever made, so you better hope your broken screw are not hardened ones. Every one that have tried to modify original Pfaff plates and feet`s know what I am talking about. These machines are pretty easy to find used to a descent price, because the smaller subclasses will not take heavy threads. So its important to keep you budget low. good luck Tor

Hi Jimi, first; there are tools for pulling out broken screws (see pic.). We call them "grisepigg" in Norwegian; and direct translated to English that will be "pigtails". I do not know if thats the English name of them, thought. you drill a small hole in the middle off the screw and screw it in, its links threaded and will unscrew your broken bolt. Then soak your "project" in diesel or paraffin (if you can afford that) and let it stay for some days, leave it in there when you work on small parts (24 hours will help too). That will take care of the stuck parts and some surface rust. looks like you missing its base, with the hinge and screw tabs? Write to Pfaff industrial info@pfaff-industrial.com and ask for the service manual and part list (report every number on its brass plate in right order) I am sure they will send you the original pdf`s for your machine, they are very helpful there. So far I have not seen any of your pictured broken parts that cannot be replaced with aftermarket parts, or can be taken from another Pfaff class. Good luck Tor

Perhaps I need to chance my needles then and not the tape. I will try these needles my Norwegian supplier has them; "Groz Beckert San-6 Gebedur": but I don't know in which system yet. Do silicon lube help anything?

Thank you Wiz; I try to find a good one that do not stick to much to the needle. I will check it out. Thanks Tor

J. Dixon Tools UK. and Vergez Blanchard, France both make very nice European leather compasses. Same ones as for hundred years ago. Tor

Hi Wiz, I do not know this brand of tape, could you please enlighten me about it. Thanks Tor

HI Bruce, yes mine has such varnish on the handle too. I remember I wrote to ask you about it a couple years ago when I found it on EBay. I think this was one of Al Stholmans favorites too, he write about it in his book the "Leather craft tools". Where he name it as a 4 1/2" head knife. He preferred using it because of the angle of the tips and its small size. I would not agree with him in calling it a head knife, the typical European head knife is smaller and have a 180 degree blade and have a very long handle (see pic of J Dixon tools for example). The tips on this OSB is slightly leaning backward more than 180 degrees, that makes a small round knifes does it not. The blade shape is very similar to my latest favorite user; a HF Osborne. But that has a much thicker blade and a wide short rosewood handle, a very well made knife. No flex in this knife. On to something else. I bought a pretty rare Dixon screw plough gauge on British Ebay that I am very exited about. Its still in the post but I cannot wait to compare it to yours. Its has some small differences from the one you have on your site, different locking of the long screw. It look exactly as the one in pictured in page 277 in the book of R Salaman "Dictionary of leather working tools........"(Ward and Payne catalog of Dixon tools). It has a dark patina but looks to be a nice tool after refurbishing; I hope I am right about that ( I think so). I will show it to you here when I get it. Sorry for the of topic. Thanks Tor

Hi Hayes, mine is exactly like yours but have a Newark stamp on it. The handle is not rosewood but some kind of hardwood with stain on. The stamp is not as visible as yours anymore, but its a CS Osborne Newark stamp on it. When I wrote the larger OSB rosewood and brass knifes was the same blade thickness, I forgot to mention they are ticker where it goes up in the handle: approx 2 mm. Here are some pictures of it. The steel are not bad, but not of the same quality as the rosewood more expensive knifes. Tor

Hi Constabulary, Well the NPS will not work properly with a speed reducer because of the extra gear and its belt slippage. Some digital servos have the synchronizer that only calculate belt slippage like new Efka`s. The motor has a so called community drive, the control-box gives the motor the distance to run and not the synchronizer. (The synchronizer is only there to calculate belt slippage on the specific machine pulley) Then the speed reducer will mess this up. Then you have the old type of NPS motors with the position adjusted in the synchronizer, it will run with a speed reducer but not accurate. The belt slippage on the reducer will mess up the NPS timing and makes it miss the positions. Like when it miss down position with to many degrees it will return to up position and opposite. One solution that might work is to place the synchronizer on the speed reducer, I have seen that setup but do not know if it works perfect. Depended of the particular NPS motor construction you can have a error signal, some run inaccurate and some do not run at all. Tor

Good morning to you Constabulary, Joe's motor is from the 1880`ties not 1980 ties. No, but its a pre WW2 motor I think. Anyway, I have the same one in grey color too and thats even worse than the earlier black color one. I agree about the WEG motor, I had one of those too. I also have a good one from Kobold Germany, only 370 Watt single Ph but good control on it. It came with my Pfaff machine and really did not needed to be changed out. I had that Cobra servo laying around and some speed reducers so I changed it out. I often wondered about that Jack motor with position system, was it any good? did the needle position work on it? Yes Wiz talked allot about that gear reduction motor, but suddenly I heard nothing more about them. Perhaps it turned out to have low quality gears in it?? I do not know. Anyway, it was not available in 220V. Europe have a "pretty strict" quality control on electrical products "CE", perhaps thats why many of the Chinese motors do not turn up here. That FESM 550 look pretty low tech and simple, just what the Chinese electronics production is capable to manage today. Then again the pot meter on them was not a good quality, according to the topics about them. Thats not a big problem anyway. Tor

Thank you Joe, you are welcome. Thats what this forum is all about, to help each other. I have learn allot here too. Sometimes i wish members would be better to post about bad products, like faults on machines and tools. Its allot of good feedback here and not so much of bad ones. Often when somebody breaks the ice and complains about a product, many others follows with the same problem. In the mean time to many others buy that same faulty product. I have seen this a number of times here. Nobody gains on this, nor the seller or the customer. I think that in general Europeans complains more often than US Citizens. Or am I wrong. Thanks Tor

Hi Hayes and Bruce, I have one just like it with the Newark stamp on it, that makes it old does it not. Same handle and ferule but no sloppy fit. The blade feels a bit thinner than the OSB (Newark) rosewood and brass knifes, and the blade flexes allot. So I measured it; its 1,5 mm the same as my bigger rosewood and brass OSB knifes. The reason it feels thinner and flex more is because the blade is narrower where it goes up in the shaft. The steel will not get as sharp as the more expensive knifes. I do not like to use mine because of the flexing blade, so I cant tell you how it keeps an edge. Thanks Tor

Hi Joe, yes I know them and I have a couple of them laying around too. Its very old and very weak. One Hp (horse power) is 746 watt and 1/3 HP is only 248 watt. Even if it was brand new thats not enough to power your machine true leather. It will struggle all the time and then be uncontrollable. You better find something in the range of 600 to 750 watt. I have a inexpensive Chinese Cobra digital servo motor on my Pfaff 345 machine, 145$. The Pfaff 345 is a medium triple feed in the same class as your Adler 67. (My Adler 67 now sold, sewed true 11 mm. bridle leather with that motor) The motor is more than strong enough with out any speed reducer. Then you have the Family FESM-550 types of analog servo motors. I have seen them from 90 to 150$, I have not tried them because they do not come in 220V. However, I have heard good things about them. You will not find a cheap servo motors with perfect speed controls like on expensive Efka`s and Ho Sing motors. Then you get what you pay for, a Efka cost nearly ten times more too. With enough power the motor will always be more controllable, clutch or servo. I will echo what others have told you, buy your self a Chinese servo.Thats better than a clutch/speed-reducer, saves energy too. Read up on them in the forum, all the member dealer sell them. Good luck Tor

Hi Joe, Your clutch plate might be used up and its possible to get replacements. The brake on these motors should kick in when you let of the pedal or heel the pedal (depended of how it is adjusted). I mostly replace my clutch motors with servos (Efka`s and one Cobra), but I still have a couple machines with Clutch/speed reducers. One of them is a new low-speed 4 pole 600 w clutch motor; this is a very good motor and its easy to control at slow speeds. I had others that are totally uncontrollable, so yours might be one like that. If you un hook the connection from the pedal, you can see how the brake engages. It`s adjustable on the pulley end of the motor. There might be two screws; one for the brake and another for the pitman arm`s return spring. Try out some different settings. To find out if your clutch needs a new friction plate, you better try a good one and see if its any different. Hi Pcox, its against my better knowledge to put oil/fat on a friction plate. I can`t tell you how much or when you damages it, only that you will loose friction. It will soak in to your plate and you never get it of again. Sometimes it will form a hard slippery surface and your clutch will start slipping. You needed it to slip a bit more and then took very little on. You succeeded against every advices, but personally I would not risk it. Well, thats perhaps not that big a risk when people trow these after you now a days. I have some old ones laying around, I could donate one if anybody locally needed one (V single and V, 3 Ph. They are to heavy to ship abroad) Thanks Tor

Hi Joe, you could start with changing out your motor pulley to a smaller one. Try a two inch pulley, that will slow it down allot. A speed reducer costs from 90 to 150$, a cheap Chinese servo is the same and you do not need both. Never put any oil or fat on a clutch disk, then you will damage it totally. Technics to control clutch: Make sure the chain/rod from the pedal goes to the last hole on the motors pitman arm (more pedal travel and more control). Take your shoes for better pedal control and put your right hand on the machines hand wheel to brake and slow it down. Good luck Tor

I have one of them. The (rod) part that goes up in the soldering Iron has a diameter of 5 mm. Tor

Hi, Yes it`s fine machines, If I find equivalent in cylinder bed (269-373); then my Pfaff 345 got to go. When you have timed the machine enough times (like I have) you understand the value of an safety clutch. Good luck Tor

Pm sent

Thank you Aron, thats very a good deal. Are you sure about that, you know where I am based? Oslo, Norway. The shipping might be expensive. Thats of course alright with me. Perhaps if you send it with the cheapest option, I do not know. Let me know what you find out with the shipping and send me an PM. Thank you Tor

Hi Electrathon, do you have anything left? Thanks Tor

Hi Chiocciola, I have the same machine (DA 267-373) and never had a problem with it. If I had seen this thread a bit before I could have told you to check the clutch first. Now you have learn it the hard way.......at least you know much more about your machine this way. The safety clutch are there to prevent hook damages when its blocked up by threads or such. You can read about it in page number 13 in the service manual. How to free it and do the control; see fig. 21 (Abb 21; that is German for abbildung= figure in English) These manuals are made for trained sewing machine mechanics and are not always easy to understand for users. They are often badly translated to English too, so if you do not understand a word it might be written in German still (ask Google or Constabulary to translate) The clutch might not be correctly engaged (like in your case) , like described in the manual page 13 section 2.5. If this happen the the hook will turn again, but the timing will be wrong. Do the control like described in the manual and add some kerosene to free it up, if it do not work properly (Oil it up after wards). Check your timing again afterward. Remember to put in a new needle, size and system according to the manual first Good luck Tor

Hi Wiz, as I said earlier they show up regularly on European Ebay sites; such as the Ebay .de, -.nl. -fr. Seen them from 35 Euro (48$) and up. I understand their needles are hard to find. Perhaps not any more? Hi Manny, do you have allot of these needles? I think there are many people looking for them. Then again, its just what I have seen people searching for on the web. Tor

That straight is actually a zipper guide; you place it above the zipper cord. Thats why its made like it is; try it out. http://www.kwokhing.com/guide/ All these feet`s will fit your machine depended of what sewing operation you want to perform. http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/ You need a piping foot, left and Right foot (alternating foot), smooth feet`s for leather and one (or two) for small operation. You will get far with those. I do not like these center feet`s with a needle hole only, I modify them in to open toe ones. Then I can see where I am sewing. I almost always modify my feet`s, nevertheless; not many of these kwokhing Pfaff feet`s needed to be.

You just made your live allot easier. Take a look at all the stuff you can attach to it; welting attachment, zipper guide etc. With a little fuzzing about you can attach a binder on it too. Push it up and out of the way when you do not need it. The only drawback is less space to change needles and bobbins, with big hands and small machines that is. Nice work, just as I would do it myself Tor