Trox

Is there nobody who have an opinion about this tool? Bruce Johnson, I am sure this would interest a tool collector like you. I also found an other plough gauge made by them, this was much older. Therefore, this leather tool making brothers must have been in business for some time. Its strange that nobody have heard about them. Personally, I think the plough look quite good. Better than the "new" German Paffrath anyway. Thats the only new tool I can compare it too. Its a copy of a French tool, but that does not matter much. That pattern is so old that nobody remember who made it first place anyway. If it is any Spanish speaking members reading this, please do a Internet search about it and see what you can find about it. Thank you Tor

With the new Giardini leather edge paint, all you need is a sander http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/ But perhaps yours a bit of a overkill Buy the way, that Giardini edge paint was very good, a true time saver with a great result. Check it out. Tor

Has anybody seen tools from this Spanish tool maker before? I found a picture of this plough gauge on a German web site, with no more information or price on it. There was also a pic of a large round knife from the same maker. They seems to be from the Robledo Brothers in Madrid. Perhaps there are some Spanish member here who care to enlighten us about this toolmaker. With my non existent Spanish I cannot find anymore info about them. I also found an older (used) Robledo H plough for for sale in a Spanish auction site (now sold). There has to be some Spanish leather tool makers out there, they are hard to find for us non Spanish speaking. Anyway, I think it looks pretty good to be a "new" tools. (I found another one; a French pattern knife or cornette) What do you think about them.... Thanks Tor

Hi, My Dürkopp Adler 267-373 table has a table top that you can build on extra size to. You put in long steel bolts in pre drilled holes and add the extra table pieces, see pic. It will not be extremely big, but you can at least double the size when needed and take it off when not. Perhaps something to think about when a big table is not needed all the time. This is a Norwegian table system, I am sure it will be similar tables available other countries too. Tor

Is it somebody in this forum who knows these ovens. I got an old Whitfield and Wylie flash activator from a shoe repair shop I sold for a friend. This was a leftover from the sale and I thought about using it in my leather shop. I cleaned it up and checked the wirings before I tested it. I turned it on and the infrared bulb was working, then I pushed the boost button and a terrible sound started. The boost was set for 12 seconds and the sound lasted these 12 seconds as well. It produced heat as I suppose it should do. I never tried a "machine" like this before, and it sounded like a very loud microwave. Perhaps it is a kind of microwave for all I know. Are they supposed to sound like this, or is something very wrong with it? It has a fuse inside and nothing happened to the buildings fuses. Somebody with knowledge about these please give me some help here. Thanks Tor

I got my two trail packs now and testing them out, looks great so far. I understand why I need the roller applicator and roller machine too. You got to use a really thick layer to form a raw edge and thats best done with those applicator tools (and machines of course) I am impressed with the results so far. Very good. Thanks Tor

Hi, Please let me know how this paint worked out with heat treatment. Thanks Tor

Hi Mikesc, Any news about the edge paint, I would like to buy some and try it Thanks Tor

I have one and its good on skiving strap ends and splitting reins. You cannot lock the handle and use both your hands when splitting, that limits the width of what you can split. Its a upgraded model on the marked painted in black that let you lock the handle. Perhaps with a different name, but built on the same frame/technology (Osborne # 83 copy). The blade needs to be stropped quit often, but performs well when sharp. Tor

I cannot understand the concern about this, they sell you machines without belt guards. Strap cutters without safety switches, no eye protection on any machine. No finger guards on sewing machines, sewing machine motors that runs several minutes after you turn off the main switch. They even sell you a Russian atomic submarine without any liability waiver. But the clicker press..... no that one I do not dare to sell you Perhaps they are scared your fingers get stuck and you cannot pay them?

I use a cheap belt sander with good result. I use 2 inch wide belt belts for wood, because thats the only ones available for it (180 and 80 grit). Remove any under belt support plate and let the belt be slack. Always sharpen against the belt movement of course and use a flat angle. I move the knife fast sideways, especially with a new belt. Start practicing with something cheap until you get the hang of it. The advantage with this system is of course that you can sharpen for a long time without the need of any cooling. I use it to form an edge, remove rust etc. The final sharpening is done on a fine ceramic stone before polishing. However, I know people that do their polishing on their belt sander too. It all depends of the grit of the belt. If you only have coarse belts like me, moving the knife fast sideways will make a finer result

Constabulary, Strange that everything with the first name "Press" has 000$ as their family name. Even small 1/2 ton arbor presses cost allot. I found my good old German Sandt clicker press for the pick up price (free). Even thought I live in a very small country; (only five mill citizens) with even fewer saddler's. You should be able to find some old iron in your country. I wonder where they all went, perhaps they where all melted down to war material during ww2. They are not easy to miss and they are built to last; strange it is so hard to find a vintage press these days.. This is my vintage German Sandt, some Hamerite and rewiring the motor to single phase was all I had to do with it. I had it for some time now and it always do its job just fine. Tor

Sorry just a joke, and it is here like everywhere else many that use facebook. What I meant was that it is very time consuming, but of course important to keep in contact with friends and family. For that purpose I guess I have to sign up soon too.

Thank you, but I am not a member of Facebook or other social medias. I use enough time on LW as it is, no time for anything else. Here you can learn something useful, I do not know what to learn from Facebook. Part from being a hipster, learning urban terms, being politically correct and such Tor

Yes, its a common problem here on LW, you got to keep your pic small. I can upload unlimited amount of files and single file size up to 128 Mb because of my LW membership. Anyway, pics larger than 500 kb will turn up bigger than the site and not easy to view at all. Next time you take a picture with your phone or camera, select a small resolution. Most phones and tablets will resize them self when you select sharing with email or sms too. Email standards are about what works well on LW. I would love to see you knife . Later anyway. Thanks Tor

Thats a full movie about pricking irons, impressing.

On my android Samsung phone I use a program called resize me pro from XnView. You can do allot of stuff in it, but most important select the size you want to save the pic in. Its free from Google play

If you use windows. To scale/resize my pics down I use windows photo gallery (that automatically comes up when I click on one of my pic, I`m using Windows Vista still). Then select the email sending option (top menu bar), then you will be given the option to scale the pic down in %. When the pic is attached in the new email, I just copy it back to the folder with a new name and close the new email.... done. There are resize programs for download too, but this are already available for windows users.

Select "more reply option" button in the text editor. Than follow the instructions given, browse your computer to select the picture you want. Make sure the file is not any bigger than about 500 kb, or else it will come out to big.

I just looked at the Weaver retail prices on dies, they sure know how to make a buck. If I have been based in the USA I could have made an account with them. Before a minimum purchase of 500 $ a year was required, I do not know if its still like that. They have allot of nice stuff, thats for sure. Tor

HF. Osborne made very good round knifes. I have a small 4 1/4" in my collection and its my favorite right now, has been for awhile. Stiff good steel and a wide flattened handle, just made for my hand. I most confess that the US made (+100 years old) knifes are in general better than the Europeans ones. Then I speak for my self, my own knifes and the ones I have tried. I have about 20 old ones and a couple of new ones now, US and European. I find the HF made ones a bit better than the CS Osb. Newark stamped knifes, but not very much better. In my opinion the old CS Newark and early Harrison "bolo and brass" are the best round knifes for the money right now. Its been like that for some time now, I think thats because there are so many still around. Compared to other knifes they should be priced higher, (I am not complaining). I do not like todays knifes made from sheet steel, they do not measure up. Perhaps some custom made knifes do, but then you got to pay for them too. Please post a pic of your knife, its perhaps an other style of blade on it. Thanks Tor

http://www.texascustomdies.com/products.php have them. If somebody have other suppliers of dies, please post them here. I am especially looking for a North European or Scandinavian suppliers of clicker dies. I am based in Oslo, Norway. Thanks Tor

Thank you Keith, for posting the pictures and sharing your insight. I think I have enough ideas to start making something for the 441. I think I will try a 30 deg angle first. Perhaps drill/thread a couple of screw holes on top of a slotted needle plate and attach a angled aluminum piece on it. I took a peep at your web page, your work are truly amazing. Thank you Tor

Hi,I did not see the new long reinforced version of the 867. That will for sure take 8/3 polyester. To be exact ticket number of text 400 would be 7.5. Then tex 350 would be 8 (or tex 346). Coats gives us this formula to find the ticket number from tex on a thread. But also writes that finding the tex number from ticket; contact your thread manufacturer. It's not just the oposite calculation,it's more complicated than that. If that's even possible? Anyway, I am using Amman Serafile polyester and Coats Gral lubricated polyester size 8/3 every day on my 441 clone. And the correct needle size for it are Nm 230/26. It's the heaviest size available for both threads. The tex numbering for both these threads are 400. http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/products-applications/industrial-threads/gral About the B letter, I have no idea, it might be bonded. Cotton thread are an all other ball game. That's not much used anymore and I suspect they still use the antique numbering. This is a very time consuming problem. If there where any major sewing industry left in the EU, I'm sure they would have come up with some kind of standardization Inside the Union. Perhaps that would only be a new non comparable system to add confusion At least one system for sewing machine rating/ one thread type for each machine type would not be to much to ask for. And do not forget to send a letter pigeon to the Chinese about it.I am afraid the will be the Chinese who send us the next standard; a Mandarin numbering system for synthetic, translated with Google

Hi Gregg, I do not know the "Juki system". On some of the thread manufacturer web sites they explain every system used. There are two main systems; one is the fixed weight system and the other are the fixed length systems. (example in metric= How many meters thread on a Kg, how much weight on 1000 meter of thread) Far East has their own, Uk,Europe and USA likewise. Since Nylon, polyester and corespun polyester do have the same weight, they have different ticket or tex numbering. I recognize the comparison Nm and tkt 40 is Tex 69, Nm and tkt 8/3 strands is then Tex 400. Since Nm is a fixed weight system the ticket numbers will variate from thread to thread,; some thread are heavier than others. To convert any Tex Number to a Ticket Number value: divide 1,000 by the Tex number and multiply by 3. Any machine data sheet should therefor specify the type of thread used in their spec`s. Unfortunately, this is not very common, many use only synthetic. I guess most synthetic thread with the same numbers of strands weighs similar. I do not know what "B" stand for, perhaps braided? Tor