Trox

Yes Stuart, I agree with you and now it's no point in contacting the company. And you did the right thing to post about it here. The fact that a big company are selling worn down equipment and as refurbished should be known to all. When CoryLeif also experienced issues it seems to be more than just a "crack" in their quality control. And Yes Eric, there is no doubt about it; this machine was not touched at all. I saw some of your pictures and it did not look any good. By the way, you did a good job with both the machine and the topic. To bad that they keep on doing stuff like this, I looked at their website and they had a lot of new stuff I would like take a closer look at. New stuff, like reasonable priced brass embossing roll. However, I do not like to deal with companies that I cannot trust. Tor

If that was my company I would offer you my sincerely apologies and give you an other machine. Bad publicity can be very expensive, this forum have many reader that's in their targeting group. Anything less would be shortsighted. Tor

Venator, I have a question. Has Nick O Sewing been made aware of this machines condition? has he not offered to take back an repair the machine? or perhaps swap it out. When it comes to these types of Adler machines Like the 467, 767 and the Duerkopp 290, 291 (if made after 1990 all called Duerkopp Adler) These are all high speed machines (tripple feeds) that commonly been used in factories. Therefore I would check them extra carefully before I buy them. I understand that Nick O Sewing is a company that often buy up factory lots. If it came from a closed down production the machine could be overhauled and still in use . Or its a old swapped out machine that came on the lot. This machine will at least be 36 years old or more, that's why I do not understand how somebody can assume it's alright. What's left on a factory high speed machine after 36 year in a factory? It is a Adler, but still. You cannot just assume 36 years old factory machine is okay! It's a machine with a design that looks very modern for its age,(it's very modern too) it's easy to mistake it for a much newer machine. Perhaps, that makes them easier to sell. Nevertheless, it's old. Anyway, a big company like Nick O Sewing must have some routines on machine buy and sell, they would have to log it's history. A normal thing to do is to take it back and repair it. You cannot expect the company to do anything else or can you?

I will agree with my German name brother above, it's a matter of taste and how much material you want to remove. I have many different style edge bevlers, my favorite are the old CS. Osborn fine edgers. (HF. Osb and Gomp and many other made the same style) I have five sizes of them, #1 to #5. I just pick up one try, sometimes I want to remove more and sometimes less. It's not always constant to thickness, but will vary just as much of type of leather. Sometimes I use two different edger sizes on the same thickness, bevels several times. When it comes to leather edges we all have our own techniques, favorite products and tools. There are no exact rules when it comes to leather edges. Somebody could easily write a book on the subject alone. I am not familiar with Barry Kings sizes. I do just fine with 5 sizes for a variety of work. If I had to choose only three sizes of the ones I have, it would be #1, #3 and #5. Tor

Nice job!

Dropdown guide with a center guide is a helpful tool for sewing nice French seams. For keeping a constant distance from the center, both for single and double needle machines. Tor

It's scary how some dealers use the term "refurbished" today. It's not common to see a Adler machine that mistreated. I live in a country where Adler are more common than Singer Industrials, so I have seen a fear share of them. It's strange that a large company like that have such poor quality control. Tor

Most beginners have a limited budget, what's your? If you should sew holsters you will at least need a Juki TSC 441 or a Adler 205-370 clone. Most reasonable machine that do the job will be a short arm 441 clone like Cobra 3 or Cowboy 3500. They are all tripple feed cylinder bed machines that will sew 7/8 of an inch with heavy threads. You have a new cheaper option too, the cowboy 3200 that will sew up to an 1/2 inch (tripple feed, cyl bed and heavy threads) Buying from one of our forum dealer would be the smartest option. They will ensure you service, warranty and most important; support. If you are an very rich man you could buy the new Duerkopp Adler 969 H, who is the "Rolls Roys" of leather machines today. Or perhaps A Campbell Randall Needle and awl high lift. However, that's hardly a beginners machine, but it will lay down a stitch more beautiful and powerful than anything else. The options are many if your budget is unlimited. Myself, I started on the bottom with hand sewing, old cheap machines and eventually ended up with an a Juki 441 clone/Japanese hook and Efka 1550 motor. That is all the machine I need for heavy stuff, I will use it until it breaks down. That is if it breaks down, I do have several other smaller machines and I cannot use them all at once. Therfore, the runtime on it will be limited; I doubt I ever will be able to wear it out. I choose the 441 clone because of its power, superior high foot lift, long arm and it's heavy thread sizes. An important factor for me was the easily available and quantity of attachments for it. They are available for reasonable prices too. If you take a look at what original Duerkopp Adler attachment cost you will understand. However, now a days aftermarket attachment are available for DA Machines/clones too. When I bought my machine there was only a few. If you are going to sew a variety of different jobs like me, you will need a lot of them. Different needle plates and presser feets. Take a look at what dealers offers on included attachments, these are expensive buying alone. There are good deals to be made for those who do they research well. Check what type of servo motor and/if speed reducer (depended of motor brand, some motors do not accept speed reducer). Search the forum on servo motor reviews, there have been some issues with Chinese servo motors. Good Luck Tor

For all those who have asked me for the Juki TSC 441 adjustment manual and partlist. I have just managed to recover these manuals from a broken down PC and uploaded them here. Free for download for our members personal use. Enjoy Tor TSN-421&TSC-441EM00_e.pdf ai0cjh00.pdf

When we talking about Blanchard history. The competition, the "Mayer Flamery Paris" (or "Ferdinand Mayer Paris" like some of his tools was stamped with). He was a former master from the Blanchard workshop. He quit his job with Blanchard and stole with him their model and client list. That's the reason for their tools similarities. He was later convicted in court for that. He still managed his company to survive, making his popular Splitting and skiving machine. I am not sure, but I think is was his version of the Spitlers Patent splitting lapskiving Machine (CS. Osborne # 83). Correct me if I'm wrong. I do have the Osborne # 83 machine myself and some of our members have the Mayer Flamery machine. I do think Walter Roth has one and pictures is posted in this forum/topic "tools of a Swiss Saddler" The machine is a bit different, it's a beautiful machine that sold very well. I understand why it was popular. The Mayer Flamery company lasted from 1900 until 1960. However Mr. Ferdinand started a cutlery before that, around 1870. His tools was then marked with a little horse. Tor

Hi, I have several old Blanchard knifes and other types of tools. Non of my old Blanchard round knifes has a logo like yours. However, I do have a Cornett (French pattern quarter moon knife) with the same mark (and handle material). All my other Blanchard knifes have the dog under the company name, some with a curved "Blancard" and some with the straight "Blanchard" stamp. I have one with "6 medals" stamped under "Blanchard" "the Greyhound" and "Paris". Some tools have only "Blanchard". The particular large roundknife (7") with "6 medals) under the logo (has a ebony handle, who is pretty common on old large Blanchard round knifes) should be possible to date pretty accurate. Since we know that the company have received 7 gold and silver medals in total for their tools. The first date of foundation for the Blanchard company is 1823. 1828. Mr. Louis Rene Blanchard make Cutlery in 37 Rue des Gravelliers, Paris. 1842. Mr. L. R. Blanchard goes into partnership with Mr. V. J. C. Mercier. The Company becomes "Mercier Blanchard & Cie" (Cie= Co) 1844. Mr. Louis Hippolyte SIMONIN succeed in getting Mercier´S permission to brand some or all of the tools with "MERCIER" or "MERCIER-BLANCHARD" or "BLANCHARD" In the years after that Mr. SIMONIN changes several business partners. 1866. SIMONIN parters with Mr. Stanislas FREZARD and the name becomes "SIMONIN dit BLANCHARD & Cie" The first time the name "VERGEZ" was mentioned was in 1910. It look like it was a company (Brand name) that Mr. SIMONIN BLANCHARD bought that year. Then again, my French is not that good so I'm not sure how this played out. I cannot find any exact date for when the brand "VERGEZ BLANCHARD" started to appear on some of the tools. Some new tools has today only "BLANCHARD" stamped or etched on to them. Anyway, it looks like your knife has a rosewood handle. It's perhaps not that big? I have mostly seen rosewood used on smaller knifes. I do not think we can date a knife on this handle material. They used Ebony, rosewood, boxwood, horn and bone on early handles. Now they are using "palisander" and plastic. So any exact dating of your knife is difficult, it is an old beautiful good one for sure. There is one member here that knows a lot about the Blanchard tools; the Swiss Saddler Walter Roth. He has a very good topic in leather History called "Tools of a Swiss saddler" http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49437 He have a beautiful collection of early Blanchard tools and have used them for 40 years, I am sure he can help you setting a time period for it. I hope this info was useful, there are not much info to be found on the company. Tor

Hi, your Osborn knife you comparing with, is it a Harrison stamped one?Thanks Tor

By the way it was probably a Efka DC 1600 motor on his Ferdco (it is uses with the control box in the picture) Very smooth motor who was replaced by the current sold DC 1550 (stronger an smaller like all "new" things are) I use them both and are very satisfied with them (they run on 220 V single PH only) Tor

Singer 144W-305 was a machine made for these jobs, sewing leather on to door panels. This one would do it without problems (now sold) Like stated in prior post, as long it's soft plywood and the right needle type. Tor

These presser feets will also fit Adler class 5-27,5-8 and 105/104 with jump foot. There are a couple of new members that has acquired such Adler machines that might want to buy them. If they still are available? Tor

That's a wooden bone folder. A bone folder are used to burnish leather edges, scribing lines and so on. There are nothing magical about that, both wood and bone will do a great job in doing so. Much better that any cheap plastic version from Tandy, that is.Tor

That's for creasing a line near the leather edge. Tor

You can also check with Gregg at Keystone http://www.mcssl.com/store/keysew/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors He sells and knows the Consew brand. Tor

The Consew motor has nothing to do with the Ho Hsing brand. The Consew motors are made in China and are just the same as many other brands of Chinese motors. The Chinese have yet to brake the code on making good servo motors. They have plenty of watt and enough torque in the digital ones, but poor low speed control and no working needle position. (of course some are working as they should, this is general speaking) The Chinese sewing machines on the other hand has become very good. That's why I recommend a good Japanese low priced servo motor, the Ho Hsing G60 (600 watts servo motor with needle position and expand options). Then you will avoid these problems and have a proper support too. To get any info about the Consew, go to http://www.consew.com/list/machine-stands/servo-motors Good luck Tor

Ho Hsing sells a reasonable priced servomotorer with needle position, the G60 series. This is a professional sewing machine motor made in Japan. You can get it for about 160 £ in the UK, so I guess it's not that expensive in the USA either. This motor has great low speed control and a needle position system that works. It's also possible to attach a Ho Hsing control box. You can attach all kinds of pneumatic or solenoids for foot lift, thread trimmers and so on. Ho Hsing is one of the best brands for professional sewing motors. Tor

Hi Andy, like I said, I did not realize it was a old tread. However, you can still go to the topic in leather history " tools of a Swiss saddler" by Walther Roth. You will find your plough there, I hope you bought it? It's the # 602 in the Lutz Catalog, who had the same catalog as Blanchard. There are pics of these catalogs in "The dictionary of leather working tools 1700-1950". That's a very nice book by the way, it's available in Amazon or other online book stores. So the time frame your tool has been manufactured has to be between 1826 to 1950. What about that nice halv round knife on your picture, what's the maker stamp on it. I have several different ploughs my self, from Dixon with screw adjustments, top lock to French old and new style. I do not have the like of yours, they do not come up for sale very often. Tor

There are no need for any heat treatment or buying any expensive tool, if you use the new Giardini paint. Heat treatment is necessary on the older type of Italian edge paint, but not on this new one. The Maxmatt paint has to be applied in a thick layer with a roller tool, either by machine or the hand applicator http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/product-category/tools/ The way it's been applied in the video above is wrong. You can use a round polished metal rod (like paint brush handle etc.) on smaller items. However, this are best applied like it's been recommended by the manufacturer. I use both the tools sold on their site. The machine is great on long straps and belts etc. It gives a perfect result and many times one layer is enough. Sanding paper is used for corrections and for a light rubbing between the coats. The paint are best used on raw edges where no edging is done (No burnishing, the edges most be rubbed for the best addition of the paint). The paint are thick and will build up a finished rounded edge by its self. After the final protective coat has been applied you will have a very strong edge. The edges are like molded, it endurance a great deal of mechanical stress. Very nice colors and it's available in many effects. You do not have to buy several liters like from other brands, you can buy as little as a 250 Ml bottle. It can be used on any kinds of leather, both chrome and weg tan. I have been using it on dog collars were it gets lots of mechanical stress, and the leather wear down before the edges does. I am very happy with it so far. So before investing in expensive equipment (used on yesterday's products), you should try a free sample from this new style of paint (it's a big sample too). You only have to pay for the postage. Just my 2 cents Tor

For creasing I prefer my old stock USA made HF/CS Osborn, and I heat them with a small electric finishing stove. I feel I have better control with the temperature this way (the stove are made for leather finishing) Than my inexpensive termostat controlled soldering iron with creasing bits. The soldering iron will work for heat treatment of edge paint, but are to inaccurate for creasing. That will need an accurat temperature control and those are expensive. The shape of the old stock creases are also better and easier to work with. Tor

If the center line is visible here after one or two layer (normally not) you will only sand (rub) the edge a little and apply an other layer of paint. It covers very good because it's thick. Never seen a bubble yet. Tor