Trox

I am not in my shop before end of next week, I suppose I could post some pictures then. Of course there are pics on their site. This paint is special good on chrome tan when you cannot do any thing with the edge, it build up an finished rounded edge. By adding two or more layer paint and a top finishing cote. The paint are very thick and will create a finish rounded edge, and it's very strong. I have used it on dog collars with allot of mechanical stress, it's strong as molded plastic. The leather will wear out before it. The colors are great and in many variations, you can have them to mix your own. As I mentioned above, you can try it out by paying for the postage alone. I bought the small manual machine http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/product-category/tools/ and the hand applicator. The machine will need the thicker "dence" paint and are great on belts and long straps. The hand applicator (Tandy and Campbell Randall sell them as well) will use semi dence paint and are useful on most things. Trying to use the paint with out any of those tools will not give the right result. However, a small rounded awl or such will work fine on small items . I have used it on rounded we tan leather edges as well, you will only need one layer here because the rounded edge shape are already present. What I can say, it looks good are easy to apply and are very strong.Tor

Nice, you can crease both forward and rewerse:) Joke aside, the temperature control is more important than how the tip looks itself. If it's only for heat treating with Italian style edge paint. When it comes to creasing that's an other story of course. I went around this problem when I started using the latest style of Italian edge paint from Giardini http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/ This edge paint do not need any heat treatment, it only requires correction by sanding (if any at all). No need for expensive equipment and to a even better result. It's easy to use and gives a very strong beautiful result. They even give you a free sample if you pay the postage your self (it's a huge sample) applied by a small machine or hand applicator (pic on their site, I bought them both) on any kind of leather, very good on chrome tan leathers. I have tried it out for some time now and I am very happy with the result. I can only advice to try out this solution before buying any expensive new tools. And you can buy as small as 250 Ml, so there are no big investments in trying it out. Just my 2 cents Tor

I did not see this was an old post? I got an notification this was a new topic. There must be a bug somewhere? Tor

Hi Simon, I think Abbey still have them both. My wooden one has till not soften up, but I do not use it that much. I mostly use a special brass loop staples instead of sewing. If the paint comes off the metal clamp it will stain the leather. You could modify the wooden cheaper clamp, by removing some excess material to soften it up a bit. It's excellent material in it.

That's exactly the same machine, uses the same shuttle. Both Singer and Adler makes a small and a large hook machine and different arm length. And of course there are several other brands that also makes this machine: the Singer . 29K (and U)and Adler class 30. It's not a Duerkopp Adler it's was made before 94 and now made on licence from DA by SL Special machines, Germany.http://www.sl-spezial.de/sl/index.php/shoe-repair.html These are repair machines, with a top feeding foot that will make ugly markings on leather. It has a very thin arm to fit inside shoes and therfore a very small bobbin too. That means very little and thin threads. As long as you understand what this machine will and will not do. It's a tool that can sew every seam that other cannot, but will not do any pretty job. Small stitch length and ugly markings, but we cannot do with out it. Tor

A head knife is 180 degrees from tip to tip or less. A round knife is larger than 180 degrees. I do not see the point of wasting more time answering this topic, when JLSLeather have already decided his mind that the tool can be replaced by a utility knife. I will turn the question around and ask: what knife can to the same as a round knife? Referring to post # 15. He is not talking about "without one" he is talking about "something else". I understand that to be another knife and not several other tools. I know you will have a hard time doing all those different cuts with another type of knife. Unless it's not a type of Swiss pocket knife with hundred different blades, included a roller blade. Tor

That's great Marius, Uwe made a very good video for you. The accident was a valuable lesson for you. You should give the hook and bobbin house a good clean out too, check the hook tip for burrs. You can always use a white ceramic stone to remove burrs on the hook tip. It's so fine it only polishing. Check that the bobbin house opener will alow your heaviest thread to pass true. And check the distance hook needle with that same biggest needle; as close as possible without hitting the hook. We talk when you coming to Oslo. Tor

Hi Marius, It makes the right sounds. I do not remember how it's suppose to look like right now. I am not in my workshop before later this week, I will check it then. How much is the hook off where your clutch is engaging. If the clutch did not work something else has moved. You put tension to the clutch Springs too? Tor

I am not a great fan of Tandy but I'm grateful that someone will offer reasonable tools for beginners. The #84 copy is like most of their tools produced in Taiwan or China. Campbell Randall and CS Osborne has produced this # 84 Keystone splitter and lap skiving machine for more than hundred years now. Their models are made in the USA and the price is from a bit over 500 to 600 $. The first batch of the Tandy #84 had a handle that did not lock, it was missing the locking ball inside. The blade is also different, different blade bevel angle and different width. And I am sure the US tool have better steel. Ignorance must be the reason that somebody pay nearly 900 $ for a Taiwan copy. 250 $ is what it should be priced at, but I am afraid there must be a "backside to this medal" I am no sure what a "outlet price" means. However, when something looks to good to be true it often false. If I know Tandy right they do not give away anything for cheap. The other "de lux splitter" is also over priced, it's an upgraded older model. It cannot compare to a professional made # 84, only by price. I do not say it's a bad tool, only that it's overpriced. So what happened to the reasonable priced options, I can only see overpriced bad quality in their website. Tor

Yes a round knife can do all the cutting techniques that is required in leather work, no other knife can do that. Tor

Hi Marius, I did not see the topic or your message before now. I think Uwe has helped you very well and told you everything you have to do. Your safety clutches are likely stuck, that's a common problem (hardened crease). You could also use some parafin (lamp oil) to get it loosed up again. I have not read all in this topic, so I cannot know if someone already told you this. Nevertheless, free/clean out all thread pieces from the hook. When the clutch are correct aligned you should be able push a 5 mm pin (drill bit etc) in to the hole at the back side of the clutch and it will go true both holes. It's a coronsponding hole in the inner part of the clutch, the geared part. If it's not in the right position you would not be able to push your drill bit (tool) all the way in, only true the first hole. Use a 5 mm drill bit that fit exactly in the outer hole, then you will be sure it's in the right position if you can push it all the way in. The two holes has to be aligned. The two screws on the back side (same side as the hole is) are adjusting screws for the two Springs that pushes the balls. The other screws lock the clutch to the hook shaft, the gear should only be locked in place by the two ball with spring pressure (see Uwe´s drawings). Fill some diesel, parafin (lamp oil) in to a syringe, small oil can and soak the clutch in it. Let it stay until the morning. Hold the hook shaft with a Vise grip. With some leather around the shaft to protect it, and turn the hand wheel until I locks in place. When you can push a correct thickness, 5 mm pin true both parts of the clutch. You can try turn both ways to loosen it too, when you holding the shaft with a Vise grip (plier). When you have loosen both screw on the back you should be able to disengage the clutch. Then you can turn the hand wheel and the hook stays still (if you hold it). Your clutch are probably full of hardened grease, some parafin will take care of that. That is a common problem on machines that has been left idle for a long time (or clutch has not been disengaged for a long time) After you have fixed it, disengage it and locked it back in correct position. You should adjust the spring pressure on these screws, turn the all the way in and a quarter rotating back again is full spring pressure. You should set it to medium spring pressure so it will disengage, but not to easy. If it disengage to easy (happens to often) you can adjust more torque (screw them more in). WD 40 or 556 will also work good because you can spray it in easy, but the best thing is parafin. Let me know if you get it to disengage and lock back in again. Then you have to control your hook timing and needle bar height. I hope you will manage to get it right, otherwise you must come to my workshop and borrow a machine. Sew your seat in my workshop, perhaps come a bit earlier to Oslo. That's and option if you not booked a flight already . Tor

Well, I do not want to complicate this for these guys. Of course there are aplications like in a factory where they stop up. I am telling them what is best for what we are doing here. And this setting would work best for anything else than production work. You would need your needle to stop down for turning a sharp corner. Going slow,with several stops a seam. Tor

What I cannot understand is how you are able to control a flexible utility blade and get it spot on the pattern all the time. That's an achievement by its self, when it cuts in to the cutting board and flex away from cutting line. I would not manage to cut out the pattern without stopping, and we do not want stops and starts. We want to cut the pattern in one flowing movement for the best result. At least I would use a proper clicking knife for a cardboard pattern. I talked about the knife design and the advantages with it, that's not off topic. The fact that the shape has survived decades of modernizing speaks for it self. The fact that the majority of leather workers has discovered it advantages. The key to learning every craft is to master it's tools. The point with a round knife is that it is made for leather work. The steel hardness, not too hard to get as sharp as possible and soft enough to take stropping. But hard enough to keep an edge. It combines several knives in one, so it speeds up the cutting process. Up on it tip to round a corner, rolling on the long straight and skiving the end. When you have to pick up another knife, mine is till in my hand. When you have to change the blade, I bet that mine is still sharp. Or else I pull it a couple of time on my stropping board and it's good to go again. As for sharpening, I sharpening my knifes only once; then all it ever needs is stopping. To claim that is no point in an round knife, is the same as telling that you have not discovered this tool yet. It's the genius one tool I could not do without. Tor

Well, there are no other way to set up a needle position motor; It has to stop with the needle down. You cannot have it to stop up every time you release the pedal (then it releases the seam). It has to stop down a bit after BDC, when the hook has catches the top thread. The top position is when the thread take up is on the highest point, and not when the needle is in the top position. I use Efka motors on my machine, but the needle position timing principle is the same on them all. Tor

The first half moon shaped round/head knife for leather I have seen is from the 1500 BC (Before Christ that is), Egypt. Round Knifes from Europe the year 1400 AD, (After Christ) looks like the ones we uses today. This is a tool that is made for cutting leather in the fastest and best way possible. The majority of leather workers all over the world still uses this shape of knife today. I have all kinds of special leather knifes and more that 20 head and round knifes. All kinds of variations are tested and made during centuries of leather work. The shape of today have little room for improvement, only customizes for individuell taste. My bench favorite today is a 4 1/2 " old HF. Osborn knife, It's a very good knife. Leather craft is maybe the oldest craft of all, and the tools have had a very long time to develop. So this has nothing to do with YouTube. The round knife is the most versatile of all letter tool. The might be knifes that is better on individual cuts. However, the Stanley with a thin flexible blade is not one of them. Tor

A good tool is at least 50 % of the jobb. A Stanley knife will cut leather but without precision. If you want to be a better leather worker, step it up and learn to master the round/head knife. Tor

HI, so you did not buy the Japanese motor. I have yet to see a Chinese motor that is flawless, without any errors at all. Perhaps this is the one, sooner or later they will manage a good motor. Attach the rod for the synchronizer (pos.head) to the belt cover. Or the screw holes on back of the head for attaching a belt cover, if your machine is without a belt cover. If you attach it to the table the position will be unaccurate. (because the the machine head is moving in its rubber bushings) I guess you just have to make something to fix it, without any pictures of your machine I cannot tell. There should be something with the motor to attach it?One thread class down in the bobbin yes, when you sew with the heaviest thread. When you use tkt 20 or less you can use the same top and bottom. Slower? What is the slowest setting in r pm´s? Buy the Ho Hsing or a Efka. When you are finished with installing motor and new parts, call a local Durkopp Adler mechanic and ask how much he wants to come and time (service and adjust it) your machine. A one hour service when they sew your machine off. Normally they take one hours pay. If you have someone close by, otherwise you can bring the machine head to them too. That's normally not expensive. Or you can fiddle around your self until you get it right. A pro mechanic will get your machine sewn off perfect and you can start using your time on sewing leather. Even where I live in the most expensive country, it's not that expensive to have it done. I never did this myself, but I have friends that has done it. Even if your machine only has one issue (you might think so), you got to do all the machines adjustments and in the right order. It will take you a very long time to learn all this and get the right tools for it. (make them or buy DA special tools) Then, get it right the first time. A perfect Adler 167 is a very good machine. It does not have the highest foot lift, stitch length or take the heaviest threads in its class (like a new DA machine). But it runs like a Swiss watch and sews a beautiful stitch, quality is the best there is. And important, a DA mechanic knows what a perfect 167 should preform like. Then you will know that the sewing error it makes are operator errors and nothing is wrong with the machine. That's valuable information for every beginner. Just my 2 cents. Good luck and happy sewing. Tor

A 441, refer to a class of machines based on a the Juki TSC 441 triple feed heavy cylinder bed leather stitcher. Chinese clones of this machine are pimped to sew even heavier than the original machine, mine sew 20 mm leather with the heaviest threads (such as tex 415). A Singer size 18 is metric 110 (1,1 mm thick/small needle). I would at least use a size 26 (NM 200, 2 mm thick) on my 441 for such material. A Dremel machine is a small El. rotating multi tool, you can use small sanding disk/grinding wheels on it. If you grind a narrow stitch line, remove the beads in it. It should be possible to sew with your machine too. Go slow with your biggest needle, LR DI or D leather needle tip. There are many cheaper copies of the Dremel for sale everywhere, lots of tools for it too. Such machine is very useful for a leather shop for lots of reasons, like mending tools or burnishing leather edges and so on. And here is some more advice on cutting http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35981I only use stingray for inlays and not often. When it comes to hand sewing leather in general (I sometimes do it when it's required). I use pricking wheels (in a Blanchard carriage) and a awl to do the saddle stitch. I also use a French style sewing clamp. I also finish of heavy machine seams by hand, in the sewing clamp (locking off outside the edge). I do not own or use any pricking irons. If I find any used old good ones to a decent price , I will collect them but not necessary use them. Go to the sewing machine forum for advice on leather sewing machines, read the pinned posts on top of forum about choosing a leather sewing machine. Read up before buying a machine you cannot use on leather, it can be hard to sell "the wrong machine" later. Check our forum dealers sites, top banners for the best choices. Zip Zak machines are used on fabrics and sails. You need a triple feed straight stitch leather machine for heavy threads, preferable a cylinder bed with a shuttle hook. Good luck Tor

No, it's not only you, it's worn out by needle hits. It will also be a poor working needle guide, and allow he needle to bend away from the hook. Might be causing skipped stitches too, hitting something the needle should not hit (hook and bobbin case in worst case senario). A Nm 160 needle would be the biggest usable needle in this machine. Some will try a 180, but it's not advisable. It is a upholstery class machine and no heavy leather stitcher, the thread size is limited to the 15 (tex 180) top and a size smaller in the bobbin. I have a DA 267-373 and I never use it on any thing heavier, rarely heavier that tkt 20 (tex 135). That's because I don't have too I guess (I have heavier machines), but also for the best result. Tor

The hight of the feed dog is adjustable underneath the bed of your machine. But first measure the hight with a feeler gauge, caliper etc. It should be on the top of its path when the needle meets it. It should not raise more than a one millimeter over the throat plate. Buts the best set up for Wegtan leather would be in the level with the throat plate (on its highest point). However, like it's mention in the above post; your feed dog have a very large hole (it's worn out by needle hits). There will always be round push out marks from the needle, the material the needle push out will have to go somewhere. As soon as you have completed a seam, wet the leather with a damp sponge and hammer the back side of the leather with a smooth faced leather hammer. This will smooth out the markings and lock your stitches (close the leather around the thread) But do it at once before the markings fixate. Always hold the both thread ends tight until you have locked your stitches, needle down in the material and reverse one stitch before you sew forwards again (with 4 to 5 stitches before you release them). The loops underneath in your picture is because you have not locked your starting stitches. Try to ease off the foot pressure as much as possible, but not as much that your material are not hold still when the stitch are made. To little foot pressure and you will have skipped stitches. The needle have to be past the bottom dead center (BDC) and on its way up again (and the hook have catches the top thread) before you lift the pressure foot to turn the material. Otherwise you will have a skipped stich, loose loop on the bottom etc. At the end of your seam, reverse (or turn direction, "poor man's reverse") and sew at least 5 stitches backward in the same stitch holes to lock your seam. Wet (damp) your leather underneath and hammer your seam. This is a little beginners crash course in machine sewing leather, and something we all have experienced. You will manage it with some practice, this and your thread tension settings are all a matter of some practice. I think your backside will look much better with a new feed dog, there aren't many teeth marks. Nevertheless, a new feed dog will have much sharper teeth. You could try to find a smooth one. If there are to much teeth markings, then you lower it like described before. You will find the information in the service manual on how to proceed. Or ask me when/if that time comes. If you get an proper Ho Hsing needle position motor and install it right. The needle will always stop down a little bit past the BDC, with the thread loop formed. Then you will never have any issue with loose stitches in corners and such. Your sewing foot set looks good, if you need different ones. Left, right, welting and special foot set. You could try http://www.kwokhing.com/da/ You can use pressure foot from DA 267, DA 269, DA 268. Adler: 67, 69, 68, 168 and 169. They are all the same The DA 467, 767, 367, 669 and 867 (9) uses a different type foot. Good luck with your new machine. Tor

Yes, College https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/ have it. Buts not displayed on their site. That's where my friend bought his, see the link in my post #3 Tor

Well, I don't really. It is possible to change these subclass plates, they have small screws. But why bother? I have had, used and studied these class 5´s and 105 for many years now. Just when I thought I knew every thing about these machines, there turning up an new unknown model. I just point out the fact that the class 5-27 is exactly the same machine as the 105-8, and this look like an 105-8 and have the subclass number from its forerunner. Sometimes the sewing machine companies does custom orders on special machines, these are not well documented (if at all). However, what is so special with this machine that it had to be a custom/special machine order. Could they not do with an 105-8. To know the answer to this question we need to see your machine, and what's on the top of the head on this one (out of the picture) You could also ask Thomas Brinkhoff, head of the sparepart business Durkopp Adler AG. And the author of this blog http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html You will also find what's available of documents on these old classes there. This could also be an early discontinued model, made before they decided the subclass names of the 105 class. That would explain why they used the old subclass name "-27" for this feed type. About the spring loaded jump foot, that is made for leather work. This makes it possible to sew with very light foot pressure and again less markings made by the feed dog. It follows the material backward and jump forwards again for the next stitch . that's an improvement over a regular bottom feed only. I have sewn 15 mm thick leather with heavy thread on my old 5-27, with a minimum of marking from the feed dog. I do not remembering it skipped a stitch and it's still in mint condition. I keep it as an backup, I do not want to sell it for small money. It has a complete Saddlers attachment pack (plates, feets and apparatus) By the way: the class 5-8 and 5-27 was exactly the same machine, the only different was a elevated flat needle plate with matching feed dog on the -27. The answer might be related to this, because subclass numbers alway have a meaning and are used on other classes too. Post some pics of your machine here and perhaps we can solve this mystery. Thanks Tor

I recommend the Ho Hsing G60. You get that for the same price. It has a needle position system that works. It's also possible to build on a system control box on it later. Then you can add all kinds of equipment like pneumatic footlift etc. Together with Efka, Ho Hsing is world leader on sewing motors. And a motor that the Chinese copies allot. It's torgue and lowspeed control it's all about. Watt is a measurement on full speed. Why buy a copy when you can get the real thing for the same price? And with support. Does the needle position work on the Chinese motors, sometimes perhaps? Just a question. That's what they struggle to get right. I use Efka, but when I need a new reasonable priced motor I will buy the G60, it's half the price in the UK, here its twice as expensive. I have tested it and it works great. Tor

I never heard about a Adler 105-27. The machine on the picture looks as Constabulary says a subclass 8. The founder, class 5 had a subclass -27 who is exactly the same machine as the 105-8. It has a jump foot and bottom feed. I still have one in my storage, good machine. The machine on the picture has a bobbin winder from the class 5 (with a missing rubber ring). The 105-25 has a driven feeding foot, propelled by the hand wheel. And therfore a different hand wheel than the -8. Perhaps this is a machine put together with parts from a class 5-27 and a 105-8. When it's a custom built machine they can call it what they want too, at least some dealers think they are allowed too. Are there any more 105-27 that this one on Uwes picture? As for the manuals for sale, you never know what's in them before you buy it. Just punch in another "fantasy" machine in your Google search, I bet you find someone who is willing to sell you an manual for it Tor

https://youtu.be/TBQuibVZfVQ I like this video, it goes straight to the point. Nice machine too, a pro with an Efka motor. Tor