Trox

That's for creasing a line near the leather edge. Tor

You can also check with Gregg at Keystone http://www.mcssl.com/store/keysew/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors He sells and knows the Consew brand. Tor

The Consew motor has nothing to do with the Ho Hsing brand. The Consew motors are made in China and are just the same as many other brands of Chinese motors. The Chinese have yet to brake the code on making good servo motors. They have plenty of watt and enough torque in the digital ones, but poor low speed control and no working needle position. (of course some are working as they should, this is general speaking) The Chinese sewing machines on the other hand has become very good. That's why I recommend a good Japanese low priced servo motor, the Ho Hsing G60 (600 watts servo motor with needle position and expand options). Then you will avoid these problems and have a proper support too. To get any info about the Consew, go to http://www.consew.com/list/machine-stands/servo-motors Good luck Tor

Ho Hsing sells a reasonable priced servomotorer with needle position, the G60 series. This is a professional sewing machine motor made in Japan. You can get it for about 160 £ in the UK, so I guess it's not that expensive in the USA either. This motor has great low speed control and a needle position system that works. It's also possible to attach a Ho Hsing control box. You can attach all kinds of pneumatic or solenoids for foot lift, thread trimmers and so on. Ho Hsing is one of the best brands for professional sewing motors. Tor

Hi Andy, like I said, I did not realize it was a old tread. However, you can still go to the topic in leather history " tools of a Swiss saddler" by Walther Roth. You will find your plough there, I hope you bought it? It's the # 602 in the Lutz Catalog, who had the same catalog as Blanchard. There are pics of these catalogs in "The dictionary of leather working tools 1700-1950". That's a very nice book by the way, it's available in Amazon or other online book stores. So the time frame your tool has been manufactured has to be between 1826 to 1950. What about that nice halv round knife on your picture, what's the maker stamp on it. I have several different ploughs my self, from Dixon with screw adjustments, top lock to French old and new style. I do not have the like of yours, they do not come up for sale very often. Tor

There are no need for any heat treatment or buying any expensive tool, if you use the new Giardini paint. Heat treatment is necessary on the older type of Italian edge paint, but not on this new one. The Maxmatt paint has to be applied in a thick layer with a roller tool, either by machine or the hand applicator http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/product-category/tools/ The way it's been applied in the video above is wrong. You can use a round polished metal rod (like paint brush handle etc.) on smaller items. However, this are best applied like it's been recommended by the manufacturer. I use both the tools sold on their site. The machine is great on long straps and belts etc. It gives a perfect result and many times one layer is enough. Sanding paper is used for corrections and for a light rubbing between the coats. The paint are best used on raw edges where no edging is done (No burnishing, the edges most be rubbed for the best addition of the paint). The paint are thick and will build up a finished rounded edge by its self. After the final protective coat has been applied you will have a very strong edge. The edges are like molded, it endurance a great deal of mechanical stress. Very nice colors and it's available in many effects. You do not have to buy several liters like from other brands, you can buy as little as a 250 Ml bottle. It can be used on any kinds of leather, both chrome and weg tan. I have been using it on dog collars were it gets lots of mechanical stress, and the leather wear down before the edges does. I am very happy with it so far. So before investing in expensive equipment (used on yesterday's products), you should try a free sample from this new style of paint (it's a big sample too). You only have to pay for the postage. Just my 2 cents Tor

For creasing I prefer my old stock USA made HF/CS Osborn, and I heat them with a small electric finishing stove. I feel I have better control with the temperature this way (the stove are made for leather finishing) Than my inexpensive termostat controlled soldering iron with creasing bits. The soldering iron will work for heat treatment of edge paint, but are to inaccurate for creasing. That will need an accurat temperature control and those are expensive. The shape of the old stock creases are also better and easier to work with. Tor

If the center line is visible here after one or two layer (normally not) you will only sand (rub) the edge a little and apply an other layer of paint. It covers very good because it's thick. Never seen a bubble yet. Tor

I am not in my shop before end of next week, I suppose I could post some pictures then. Of course there are pics on their site. This paint is special good on chrome tan when you cannot do any thing with the edge, it build up an finished rounded edge. By adding two or more layer paint and a top finishing cote. The paint are very thick and will create a finish rounded edge, and it's very strong. I have used it on dog collars with allot of mechanical stress, it's strong as molded plastic. The leather will wear out before it. The colors are great and in many variations, you can have them to mix your own. As I mentioned above, you can try it out by paying for the postage alone. I bought the small manual machine http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/product-category/tools/ and the hand applicator. The machine will need the thicker "dence" paint and are great on belts and long straps. The hand applicator (Tandy and Campbell Randall sell them as well) will use semi dence paint and are useful on most things. Trying to use the paint with out any of those tools will not give the right result. However, a small rounded awl or such will work fine on small items . I have used it on rounded we tan leather edges as well, you will only need one layer here because the rounded edge shape are already present. What I can say, it looks good are easy to apply and are very strong.Tor

Nice, you can crease both forward and rewerse:) Joke aside, the temperature control is more important than how the tip looks itself. If it's only for heat treating with Italian style edge paint. When it comes to creasing that's an other story of course. I went around this problem when I started using the latest style of Italian edge paint from Giardini http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/ This edge paint do not need any heat treatment, it only requires correction by sanding (if any at all). No need for expensive equipment and to a even better result. It's easy to use and gives a very strong beautiful result. They even give you a free sample if you pay the postage your self (it's a huge sample) applied by a small machine or hand applicator (pic on their site, I bought them both) on any kind of leather, very good on chrome tan leathers. I have tried it out for some time now and I am very happy with the result. I can only advice to try out this solution before buying any expensive new tools. And you can buy as small as 250 Ml, so there are no big investments in trying it out. Just my 2 cents Tor

I did not see this was an old post? I got an notification this was a new topic. There must be a bug somewhere? Tor

Hi Simon, I think Abbey still have them both. My wooden one has till not soften up, but I do not use it that much. I mostly use a special brass loop staples instead of sewing. If the paint comes off the metal clamp it will stain the leather. You could modify the wooden cheaper clamp, by removing some excess material to soften it up a bit. It's excellent material in it.

That's exactly the same machine, uses the same shuttle. Both Singer and Adler makes a small and a large hook machine and different arm length. And of course there are several other brands that also makes this machine: the Singer . 29K (and U)and Adler class 30. It's not a Duerkopp Adler it's was made before 94 and now made on licence from DA by SL Special machines, Germany.http://www.sl-spezial.de/sl/index.php/shoe-repair.html These are repair machines, with a top feeding foot that will make ugly markings on leather. It has a very thin arm to fit inside shoes and therfore a very small bobbin too. That means very little and thin threads. As long as you understand what this machine will and will not do. It's a tool that can sew every seam that other cannot, but will not do any pretty job. Small stitch length and ugly markings, but we cannot do with out it. Tor

A head knife is 180 degrees from tip to tip or less. A round knife is larger than 180 degrees. I do not see the point of wasting more time answering this topic, when JLSLeather have already decided his mind that the tool can be replaced by a utility knife. I will turn the question around and ask: what knife can to the same as a round knife? Referring to post # 15. He is not talking about "without one" he is talking about "something else". I understand that to be another knife and not several other tools. I know you will have a hard time doing all those different cuts with another type of knife. Unless it's not a type of Swiss pocket knife with hundred different blades, included a roller blade. Tor

That's great Marius, Uwe made a very good video for you. The accident was a valuable lesson for you. You should give the hook and bobbin house a good clean out too, check the hook tip for burrs. You can always use a white ceramic stone to remove burrs on the hook tip. It's so fine it only polishing. Check that the bobbin house opener will alow your heaviest thread to pass true. And check the distance hook needle with that same biggest needle; as close as possible without hitting the hook. We talk when you coming to Oslo. Tor

Hi Marius, It makes the right sounds. I do not remember how it's suppose to look like right now. I am not in my workshop before later this week, I will check it then. How much is the hook off where your clutch is engaging. If the clutch did not work something else has moved. You put tension to the clutch Springs too? Tor

I am not a great fan of Tandy but I'm grateful that someone will offer reasonable tools for beginners. The #84 copy is like most of their tools produced in Taiwan or China. Campbell Randall and CS Osborne has produced this # 84 Keystone splitter and lap skiving machine for more than hundred years now. Their models are made in the USA and the price is from a bit over 500 to 600 $. The first batch of the Tandy #84 had a handle that did not lock, it was missing the locking ball inside. The blade is also different, different blade bevel angle and different width. And I am sure the US tool have better steel. Ignorance must be the reason that somebody pay nearly 900 $ for a Taiwan copy. 250 $ is what it should be priced at, but I am afraid there must be a "backside to this medal" I am no sure what a "outlet price" means. However, when something looks to good to be true it often false. If I know Tandy right they do not give away anything for cheap. The other "de lux splitter" is also over priced, it's an upgraded older model. It cannot compare to a professional made # 84, only by price. I do not say it's a bad tool, only that it's overpriced. So what happened to the reasonable priced options, I can only see overpriced bad quality in their website. Tor

Yes a round knife can do all the cutting techniques that is required in leather work, no other knife can do that. Tor

Hi Marius, I did not see the topic or your message before now. I think Uwe has helped you very well and told you everything you have to do. Your safety clutches are likely stuck, that's a common problem (hardened crease). You could also use some parafin (lamp oil) to get it loosed up again. I have not read all in this topic, so I cannot know if someone already told you this. Nevertheless, free/clean out all thread pieces from the hook. When the clutch are correct aligned you should be able push a 5 mm pin (drill bit etc) in to the hole at the back side of the clutch and it will go true both holes. It's a coronsponding hole in the inner part of the clutch, the geared part. If it's not in the right position you would not be able to push your drill bit (tool) all the way in, only true the first hole. Use a 5 mm drill bit that fit exactly in the outer hole, then you will be sure it's in the right position if you can push it all the way in. The two holes has to be aligned. The two screws on the back side (same side as the hole is) are adjusting screws for the two Springs that pushes the balls. The other screws lock the clutch to the hook shaft, the gear should only be locked in place by the two ball with spring pressure (see Uwe´s drawings). Fill some diesel, parafin (lamp oil) in to a syringe, small oil can and soak the clutch in it. Let it stay until the morning. Hold the hook shaft with a Vise grip. With some leather around the shaft to protect it, and turn the hand wheel until I locks in place. When you can push a correct thickness, 5 mm pin true both parts of the clutch. You can try turn both ways to loosen it too, when you holding the shaft with a Vise grip (plier). When you have loosen both screw on the back you should be able to disengage the clutch. Then you can turn the hand wheel and the hook stays still (if you hold it). Your clutch are probably full of hardened grease, some parafin will take care of that. That is a common problem on machines that has been left idle for a long time (or clutch has not been disengaged for a long time) After you have fixed it, disengage it and locked it back in correct position. You should adjust the spring pressure on these screws, turn the all the way in and a quarter rotating back again is full spring pressure. You should set it to medium spring pressure so it will disengage, but not to easy. If it disengage to easy (happens to often) you can adjust more torque (screw them more in). WD 40 or 556 will also work good because you can spray it in easy, but the best thing is parafin. Let me know if you get it to disengage and lock back in again. Then you have to control your hook timing and needle bar height. I hope you will manage to get it right, otherwise you must come to my workshop and borrow a machine. Sew your seat in my workshop, perhaps come a bit earlier to Oslo. That's and option if you not booked a flight already . Tor

Well, I do not want to complicate this for these guys. Of course there are aplications like in a factory where they stop up. I am telling them what is best for what we are doing here. And this setting would work best for anything else than production work. You would need your needle to stop down for turning a sharp corner. Going slow,with several stops a seam. Tor

What I cannot understand is how you are able to control a flexible utility blade and get it spot on the pattern all the time. That's an achievement by its self, when it cuts in to the cutting board and flex away from cutting line. I would not manage to cut out the pattern without stopping, and we do not want stops and starts. We want to cut the pattern in one flowing movement for the best result. At least I would use a proper clicking knife for a cardboard pattern. I talked about the knife design and the advantages with it, that's not off topic. The fact that the shape has survived decades of modernizing speaks for it self. The fact that the majority of leather workers has discovered it advantages. The key to learning every craft is to master it's tools. The point with a round knife is that it is made for leather work. The steel hardness, not too hard to get as sharp as possible and soft enough to take stropping. But hard enough to keep an edge. It combines several knives in one, so it speeds up the cutting process. Up on it tip to round a corner, rolling on the long straight and skiving the end. When you have to pick up another knife, mine is till in my hand. When you have to change the blade, I bet that mine is still sharp. Or else I pull it a couple of time on my stropping board and it's good to go again. As for sharpening, I sharpening my knifes only once; then all it ever needs is stopping. To claim that is no point in an round knife, is the same as telling that you have not discovered this tool yet. It's the genius one tool I could not do without. Tor

Well, there are no other way to set up a needle position motor; It has to stop with the needle down. You cannot have it to stop up every time you release the pedal (then it releases the seam). It has to stop down a bit after BDC, when the hook has catches the top thread. The top position is when the thread take up is on the highest point, and not when the needle is in the top position. I use Efka motors on my machine, but the needle position timing principle is the same on them all. Tor

The first half moon shaped round/head knife for leather I have seen is from the 1500 BC (Before Christ that is), Egypt. Round Knifes from Europe the year 1400 AD, (After Christ) looks like the ones we uses today. This is a tool that is made for cutting leather in the fastest and best way possible. The majority of leather workers all over the world still uses this shape of knife today. I have all kinds of special leather knifes and more that 20 head and round knifes. All kinds of variations are tested and made during centuries of leather work. The shape of today have little room for improvement, only customizes for individuell taste. My bench favorite today is a 4 1/2 " old HF. Osborn knife, It's a very good knife. Leather craft is maybe the oldest craft of all, and the tools have had a very long time to develop. So this has nothing to do with YouTube. The round knife is the most versatile of all letter tool. The might be knifes that is better on individual cuts. However, the Stanley with a thin flexible blade is not one of them. Tor

A good tool is at least 50 % of the jobb. A Stanley knife will cut leather but without precision. If you want to be a better leather worker, step it up and learn to master the round/head knife. Tor

HI, so you did not buy the Japanese motor. I have yet to see a Chinese motor that is flawless, without any errors at all. Perhaps this is the one, sooner or later they will manage a good motor. Attach the rod for the synchronizer (pos.head) to the belt cover. Or the screw holes on back of the head for attaching a belt cover, if your machine is without a belt cover. If you attach it to the table the position will be unaccurate. (because the the machine head is moving in its rubber bushings) I guess you just have to make something to fix it, without any pictures of your machine I cannot tell. There should be something with the motor to attach it?One thread class down in the bobbin yes, when you sew with the heaviest thread. When you use tkt 20 or less you can use the same top and bottom. Slower? What is the slowest setting in r pm´s? Buy the Ho Hsing or a Efka. When you are finished with installing motor and new parts, call a local Durkopp Adler mechanic and ask how much he wants to come and time (service and adjust it) your machine. A one hour service when they sew your machine off. Normally they take one hours pay. If you have someone close by, otherwise you can bring the machine head to them too. That's normally not expensive. Or you can fiddle around your self until you get it right. A pro mechanic will get your machine sewn off perfect and you can start using your time on sewing leather. Even where I live in the most expensive country, it's not that expensive to have it done. I never did this myself, but I have friends that has done it. Even if your machine only has one issue (you might think so), you got to do all the machines adjustments and in the right order. It will take you a very long time to learn all this and get the right tools for it. (make them or buy DA special tools) Then, get it right the first time. A perfect Adler 167 is a very good machine. It does not have the highest foot lift, stitch length or take the heaviest threads in its class (like a new DA machine). But it runs like a Swiss watch and sews a beautiful stitch, quality is the best there is. And important, a DA mechanic knows what a perfect 167 should preform like. Then you will know that the sewing error it makes are operator errors and nothing is wrong with the machine. That's valuable information for every beginner. Just my 2 cents. Good luck and happy sewing. Tor