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A 441, refer to a class of machines based on a the Juki TSC 441 triple feed heavy cylinder bed leather stitcher. Chinese clones of this machine are pimped to sew even heavier than the original machine, mine sew 20 mm leather with the heaviest threads (such as tex 415). A Singer size 18 is metric 110 (1,1 mm thick/small needle). I would at least use a size 26 (NM 200, 2 mm thick) on my 441 for such material. A Dremel machine is a small El. rotating multi tool, you can use small sanding disk/grinding wheels on it. If you grind a narrow stitch line, remove the beads in it. It should be possible to sew with your machine too. Go slow with your biggest needle, LR DI or D leather needle tip. There are many cheaper copies of the Dremel for sale everywhere, lots of tools for it too. Such machine is very useful for a leather shop for lots of reasons, like mending tools or burnishing leather edges and so on. And here is some more advice on cutting http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35981I only use stingray for inlays and not often. When it comes to hand sewing leather in general (I sometimes do it when it's required). I use pricking wheels (in a Blanchard carriage) and a awl to do the saddle stitch. I also use a French style sewing clamp. I also finish of heavy machine seams by hand, in the sewing clamp (locking off outside the edge). I do not own or use any pricking irons. If I find any used old good ones to a decent price , I will collect them but not necessary use them. Go to the sewing machine forum for advice on leather sewing machines, read the pinned posts on top of forum about choosing a leather sewing machine. Read up before buying a machine you cannot use on leather, it can be hard to sell "the wrong machine" later. Check our forum dealers sites, top banners for the best choices. Zip Zak machines are used on fabrics and sails. You need a triple feed straight stitch leather machine for heavy threads, preferable a cylinder bed with a shuttle hook. Good luck Tor

No, it's not only you, it's worn out by needle hits. It will also be a poor working needle guide, and allow he needle to bend away from the hook. Might be causing skipped stitches too, hitting something the needle should not hit (hook and bobbin case in worst case senario). A Nm 160 needle would be the biggest usable needle in this machine. Some will try a 180, but it's not advisable. It is a upholstery class machine and no heavy leather stitcher, the thread size is limited to the 15 (tex 180) top and a size smaller in the bobbin. I have a DA 267-373 and I never use it on any thing heavier, rarely heavier that tkt 20 (tex 135). That's because I don't have too I guess (I have heavier machines), but also for the best result. Tor

The hight of the feed dog is adjustable underneath the bed of your machine. But first measure the hight with a feeler gauge, caliper etc. It should be on the top of its path when the needle meets it. It should not raise more than a one millimeter over the throat plate. Buts the best set up for Wegtan leather would be in the level with the throat plate (on its highest point). However, like it's mention in the above post; your feed dog have a very large hole (it's worn out by needle hits). There will always be round push out marks from the needle, the material the needle push out will have to go somewhere. As soon as you have completed a seam, wet the leather with a damp sponge and hammer the back side of the leather with a smooth faced leather hammer. This will smooth out the markings and lock your stitches (close the leather around the thread) But do it at once before the markings fixate. Always hold the both thread ends tight until you have locked your stitches, needle down in the material and reverse one stitch before you sew forwards again (with 4 to 5 stitches before you release them). The loops underneath in your picture is because you have not locked your starting stitches. Try to ease off the foot pressure as much as possible, but not as much that your material are not hold still when the stitch are made. To little foot pressure and you will have skipped stitches. The needle have to be past the bottom dead center (BDC) and on its way up again (and the hook have catches the top thread) before you lift the pressure foot to turn the material. Otherwise you will have a skipped stich, loose loop on the bottom etc. At the end of your seam, reverse (or turn direction, "poor man's reverse") and sew at least 5 stitches backward in the same stitch holes to lock your seam. Wet (damp) your leather underneath and hammer your seam. This is a little beginners crash course in machine sewing leather, and something we all have experienced. You will manage it with some practice, this and your thread tension settings are all a matter of some practice. I think your backside will look much better with a new feed dog, there aren't many teeth marks. Nevertheless, a new feed dog will have much sharper teeth. You could try to find a smooth one. If there are to much teeth markings, then you lower it like described before. You will find the information in the service manual on how to proceed. Or ask me when/if that time comes. If you get an proper Ho Hsing needle position motor and install it right. The needle will always stop down a little bit past the BDC, with the thread loop formed. Then you will never have any issue with loose stitches in corners and such. Your sewing foot set looks good, if you need different ones. Left, right, welting and special foot set. You could try http://www.kwokhing.com/da/ You can use pressure foot from DA 267, DA 269, DA 268. Adler: 67, 69, 68, 168 and 169. They are all the same The DA 467, 767, 367, 669 and 867 (9) uses a different type foot. Good luck with your new machine. Tor

Yes, College https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/ have it. Buts not displayed on their site. That's where my friend bought his, see the link in my post #3 Tor

Well, I don't really. It is possible to change these subclass plates, they have small screws. But why bother? I have had, used and studied these class 5´s and 105 for many years now. Just when I thought I knew every thing about these machines, there turning up an new unknown model. I just point out the fact that the class 5-27 is exactly the same machine as the 105-8, and this look like an 105-8 and have the subclass number from its forerunner. Sometimes the sewing machine companies does custom orders on special machines, these are not well documented (if at all). However, what is so special with this machine that it had to be a custom/special machine order. Could they not do with an 105-8. To know the answer to this question we need to see your machine, and what's on the top of the head on this one (out of the picture) You could also ask Thomas Brinkhoff, head of the sparepart business Durkopp Adler AG. And the author of this blog http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html You will also find what's available of documents on these old classes there. This could also be an early discontinued model, made before they decided the subclass names of the 105 class. That would explain why they used the old subclass name "-27" for this feed type. About the spring loaded jump foot, that is made for leather work. This makes it possible to sew with very light foot pressure and again less markings made by the feed dog. It follows the material backward and jump forwards again for the next stitch . that's an improvement over a regular bottom feed only. I have sewn 15 mm thick leather with heavy thread on my old 5-27, with a minimum of marking from the feed dog. I do not remembering it skipped a stitch and it's still in mint condition. I keep it as an backup, I do not want to sell it for small money. It has a complete Saddlers attachment pack (plates, feets and apparatus) By the way: the class 5-8 and 5-27 was exactly the same machine, the only different was a elevated flat needle plate with matching feed dog on the -27. The answer might be related to this, because subclass numbers alway have a meaning and are used on other classes too. Post some pics of your machine here and perhaps we can solve this mystery. Thanks Tor

I recommend the Ho Hsing G60. You get that for the same price. It has a needle position system that works. It's also possible to build on a system control box on it later. Then you can add all kinds of equipment like pneumatic footlift etc. Together with Efka, Ho Hsing is world leader on sewing motors. And a motor that the Chinese copies allot. It's torgue and lowspeed control it's all about. Watt is a measurement on full speed. Why buy a copy when you can get the real thing for the same price? And with support. Does the needle position work on the Chinese motors, sometimes perhaps? Just a question. That's what they struggle to get right. I use Efka, but when I need a new reasonable priced motor I will buy the G60, it's half the price in the UK, here its twice as expensive. I have tested it and it works great. Tor

I never heard about a Adler 105-27. The machine on the picture looks as Constabulary says a subclass 8. The founder, class 5 had a subclass -27 who is exactly the same machine as the 105-8. It has a jump foot and bottom feed. I still have one in my storage, good machine. The machine on the picture has a bobbin winder from the class 5 (with a missing rubber ring). The 105-25 has a driven feeding foot, propelled by the hand wheel. And therfore a different hand wheel than the -8. Perhaps this is a machine put together with parts from a class 5-27 and a 105-8. When it's a custom built machine they can call it what they want too, at least some dealers think they are allowed too. Are there any more 105-27 that this one on Uwes picture? As for the manuals for sale, you never know what's in them before you buy it. Just punch in another "fantasy" machine in your Google search, I bet you find someone who is willing to sell you an manual for it Tor

https://youtu.be/TBQuibVZfVQ I like this video, it goes straight to the point. Nice machine too, a pro with an Efka motor. Tor

It's not easy to find speed reducers for sale in Europe. Perhaps Andreas in Sieck.de have some for sale still. I bought some of him before and they where reasonably priced. I have had both Adler 67 and 167. Currently I have the Durkopp Adler 267-373 with an Efka DC 1600. With a new 600 to 750 watt servo motor you do not need any reducer on that machine. A reducer on top of the new strong servo motors will be to much for that machine, it will simply be to strong. That's the setup we use on the heavy stitchers like the 441 and 205-370 machines. I installed a reducer and a 600 watt cobra servo on my Pfaff 345 H3, a similar machine to the 167 but with a cylinder bed (I had a reducer laying around). Now I want to take it off again. The setup is way to much for the machine and easily knocks it out of timing if accident happens. The Pfaff has no safety clutch, your 167 normally has one. Nevertheless, a reducer will be a waist of time and money. Use you money to buy a good motor instead. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Motors sell many good motors. The best deal will be a Ho Hsing G60 needle position servo motor to about 160 £.(it's not displayed on their site) http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=65042 that's a Japanese professional motor that is more than strong enough for your machine without any reducer. That's a Japanese motor to a Chinese price It has needle position, needle always stops down position. Heeling the pedal brings it in correct top position. You can go stitch by stitch and motor have great low speed control. It's a labor saving solution. I currently have such motors on two of my machines, and could not do without them. Good luck. Tor

Based on what you we have read in this topic, a 29K will be to weak for such job. Unless you use the biggest leather needle that will fit and make a stitch line with a grinding tool. And keep away from the biggest beads. I would use my 441 with a NM 200 plus LR needle on this job, I would not risk using any thing less. Breaking a needle is nothing, but you also risking knocking your machine out of timing. Get broken beads, needle pieces in the shuttle and possible breaking it. If you have to use a smaller machine, choose one with a safety clutch. I would rather take the time to hand sew instead of risking breaking my 29K-72 on such work. I cannot be that big of a job? Tor

HI Bob, is this a garden tool? I did a quick search on your link. It looks to me like an fabrics El roller knife (those are often much more expensive). Does it handle fabrics well to? Pretty cheap priced, could be good for some upholstery material perhaps?thanks Tor Sorry, I read the wrong add there. I never seen these for sale where I live (Norway)

I told you it was a wild guess but I still think it is German made:) I'll think you do a pretty good job finding strange interesting machines. Keep looking, eventionally they have to turn up on the marked.

You can see that it is from the same company. I cannot see a needle or an awl. It might do something else in production of the shoe. Not that I know anything about the shoe production, they have a lot of fancy machines. That's for sure.

A shoe lasting machine perhaps? Looks like this perforating machine http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/shoe-manufacturing/diverse-machines/details/1720/

Looks German to me,you got to have some faith in your own people:) To take a wild guess, I would say it's made somewhere behind the iron curtain. East German perhaps. But it's really not my cup of tea. It's just my feelings. It's good looking, that's for sure. Does it sew?

Still I have no clue, the picture will not give enough detail either. Anyway, never seen this fine machine before. Where did you find it?

Perhaps a picture would do the trick:)

Sorry mate, I cannot agree with you on that:) I have own and used this machine (144W-305 picture in my post #19), it can take up to needle size (Singer 27= metric NM 250).The needle system is 7 x 3, that's the same length as a 794 needle I am using in my 441. My machine sewed polyester thread tkt 8 ( tkt 9 is tex 350 in the same thread) that means that tkt 8 is even heavier than that. I used a needle 230 for that (Singer 26). So that means this machine will run Tex 415 without problems. And that is also stated in its manual. I have never tried this myself, because I could not get that heavy thread size here in Norway. The previous owner used it in production and it was set up with that same thread size; tkt 8. It sewed that all day long, that size is well in its comfort zone. And make no mistake, this is a monster of a upholstery machine. Nevertheless, that does not make it a leather machine, they have shuttle hooks. It was often used in the car industry, sewing vinyl and upholstery leather true wooden door panels. Anyway Darren, I see your point; dealers often tell you anything to sell a machine. Tor

Hi, the mid wheel is a the hand wheel, it's only a pulley on the back. You got to have extremely long arms to reach a conventional hand wheel on the back. I bought that machine very cheap, just for that same reason; it was to big to handle. Anyway, I traded it in a cylinder bed that I sold again. The result was I got ten times the money I paid for it and that's not bad. If you get it cheap and have the space for it, sooner or later somebody need one and will pay you good money for it. Remember, such stretched machines cost four times a normal one. However, storage cost money too. Tor

Mine had that extra hand wheel on the arm, I found an old picture of it. Adler made the same machine called 220 and of course Juki would not be any different LG 158. There are later models of them too, like the Singer 144B8BL-30 (-10 -20) http://industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/144b.htm Both Adler and Singer made these for years in different arm length, 10" 20" and 30". Here is the black war horse the US army could not do without: http://industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-singers/144w.htm Here is a model like mine ,without the extra wheel. http://industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-brochures/144w.htm These lang arm machine is very expensive new and can sell for much used too. If you need one you got to pay. On the other hand, it can be difficult to sell too. It's to big for most people, it weight like a ton. These perform best on upholstery material, tent and so on. It's no leather stitcher. However, if you want to sew canvas on trailers, tarpaulins and such. There are no better machine for the job, it has a monster bobbin. I hope this info answered some of your questions. Tor

Most likely your cobra has the foot pressure set for leather, and then not enough for a thin layer of fabric. Sewing without the proper foot pressure could result in a bent needle. Replacing the needle solves most stitch errors. Tor

I had such machine before: Singer 144-305 (30" free space to the right of the needle) It is a triple feed upholstery class machine with a XXL bobbin, with a 20 mm. Foot lift. It was designed to sew door panel for cars and such, it sewed vinyl and leather on to wooden plates. It was used on military tents and such. It even got an medal for its 2WW effort used by the US army. It handles thread size ticket 8 (Nm) or Tex 350 without problems, I never tried anything heavier. However, this is not a heavy leather stitcher, it has a vertical rotating hook and is classified as an super heavy upholstery machine. A heavy leather sticker has a shuttle hook design, that ables it to work with heavy thread tension. 4 pieces of 10 Oz will be about 16 mm thick. You can get the machine to penetrate that thickness of leather, with a strong motor/reducer. But pulling a stitch in it, no I do not think so. It will start skipping stitches long before that thickness because of the hook design. It's a great machine, but do not mistake it for an leather stitcher. Tor

Hi, do you have a picture of the complete tool? I would like to se the condition of the rest of it. Thanks Tor

I am looking for one to swap out my Pfaff 345 H3, however the dollar price and shipping will kill the deal. These are great machines, I have the flat bed version. Tor

That's an push beader, it can be used to create a round profile border at the edge of the leather. Often used as a border around leather carvings. It is sharp and will cut instead of crease. You can buy them new but they are often reprofiled from a edge creaser. http://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/bargain-basement/ here you will find some used good ones. It also possible a ordinary single line creaser, it's a very bad picture so it's hard to tell. Tor