Trox

It's not easy to find speed reducers for sale in Europe. Perhaps Andreas in Sieck.de have some for sale still. I bought some of him before and they where reasonably priced. I have had both Adler 67 and 167. Currently I have the Durkopp Adler 267-373 with an Efka DC 1600. With a new 600 to 750 watt servo motor you do not need any reducer on that machine. A reducer on top of the new strong servo motors will be to much for that machine, it will simply be to strong. That's the setup we use on the heavy stitchers like the 441 and 205-370 machines. I installed a reducer and a 600 watt cobra servo on my Pfaff 345 H3, a similar machine to the 167 but with a cylinder bed (I had a reducer laying around). Now I want to take it off again. The setup is way to much for the machine and easily knocks it out of timing if accident happens. The Pfaff has no safety clutch, your 167 normally has one. Nevertheless, a reducer will be a waist of time and money. Use you money to buy a good motor instead. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Motors sell many good motors. The best deal will be a Ho Hsing G60 needle position servo motor to about 160 £.(it's not displayed on their site) http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=65042 that's a Japanese professional motor that is more than strong enough for your machine without any reducer. That's a Japanese motor to a Chinese price It has needle position, needle always stops down position. Heeling the pedal brings it in correct top position. You can go stitch by stitch and motor have great low speed control. It's a labor saving solution. I currently have such motors on two of my machines, and could not do without them. Good luck. Tor

Based on what you we have read in this topic, a 29K will be to weak for such job. Unless you use the biggest leather needle that will fit and make a stitch line with a grinding tool. And keep away from the biggest beads. I would use my 441 with a NM 200 plus LR needle on this job, I would not risk using any thing less. Breaking a needle is nothing, but you also risking knocking your machine out of timing. Get broken beads, needle pieces in the shuttle and possible breaking it. If you have to use a smaller machine, choose one with a safety clutch. I would rather take the time to hand sew instead of risking breaking my 29K-72 on such work. I cannot be that big of a job? Tor

HI Bob, is this a garden tool? I did a quick search on your link. It looks to me like an fabrics El roller knife (those are often much more expensive). Does it handle fabrics well to? Pretty cheap priced, could be good for some upholstery material perhaps?thanks Tor Sorry, I read the wrong add there. I never seen these for sale where I live (Norway)

I told you it was a wild guess but I still think it is German made:) I'll think you do a pretty good job finding strange interesting machines. Keep looking, eventionally they have to turn up on the marked.

You can see that it is from the same company. I cannot see a needle or an awl. It might do something else in production of the shoe. Not that I know anything about the shoe production, they have a lot of fancy machines. That's for sure.

A shoe lasting machine perhaps? Looks like this perforating machine http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/shoe-manufacturing/diverse-machines/details/1720/

Looks German to me,you got to have some faith in your own people:) To take a wild guess, I would say it's made somewhere behind the iron curtain. East German perhaps. But it's really not my cup of tea. It's just my feelings. It's good looking, that's for sure. Does it sew?

Still I have no clue, the picture will not give enough detail either. Anyway, never seen this fine machine before. Where did you find it?

Perhaps a picture would do the trick:)

Sorry mate, I cannot agree with you on that:) I have own and used this machine (144W-305 picture in my post #19), it can take up to needle size (Singer 27= metric NM 250).The needle system is 7 x 3, that's the same length as a 794 needle I am using in my 441. My machine sewed polyester thread tkt 8 ( tkt 9 is tex 350 in the same thread) that means that tkt 8 is even heavier than that. I used a needle 230 for that (Singer 26). So that means this machine will run Tex 415 without problems. And that is also stated in its manual. I have never tried this myself, because I could not get that heavy thread size here in Norway. The previous owner used it in production and it was set up with that same thread size; tkt 8. It sewed that all day long, that size is well in its comfort zone. And make no mistake, this is a monster of a upholstery machine. Nevertheless, that does not make it a leather machine, they have shuttle hooks. It was often used in the car industry, sewing vinyl and upholstery leather true wooden door panels. Anyway Darren, I see your point; dealers often tell you anything to sell a machine. Tor

Hi, the mid wheel is a the hand wheel, it's only a pulley on the back. You got to have extremely long arms to reach a conventional hand wheel on the back. I bought that machine very cheap, just for that same reason; it was to big to handle. Anyway, I traded it in a cylinder bed that I sold again. The result was I got ten times the money I paid for it and that's not bad. If you get it cheap and have the space for it, sooner or later somebody need one and will pay you good money for it. Remember, such stretched machines cost four times a normal one. However, storage cost money too. Tor

Mine had that extra hand wheel on the arm, I found an old picture of it. Adler made the same machine called 220 and of course Juki would not be any different LG 158. There are later models of them too, like the Singer 144B8BL-30 (-10 -20) http://industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/144b.htm Both Adler and Singer made these for years in different arm length, 10" 20" and 30". Here is the black war horse the US army could not do without: http://industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-singers/144w.htm Here is a model like mine ,without the extra wheel. http://industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-brochures/144w.htm These lang arm machine is very expensive new and can sell for much used too. If you need one you got to pay. On the other hand, it can be difficult to sell too. It's to big for most people, it weight like a ton. These perform best on upholstery material, tent and so on. It's no leather stitcher. However, if you want to sew canvas on trailers, tarpaulins and such. There are no better machine for the job, it has a monster bobbin. I hope this info answered some of your questions. Tor

Most likely your cobra has the foot pressure set for leather, and then not enough for a thin layer of fabric. Sewing without the proper foot pressure could result in a bent needle. Replacing the needle solves most stitch errors. Tor

I had such machine before: Singer 144-305 (30" free space to the right of the needle) It is a triple feed upholstery class machine with a XXL bobbin, with a 20 mm. Foot lift. It was designed to sew door panel for cars and such, it sewed vinyl and leather on to wooden plates. It was used on military tents and such. It even got an medal for its 2WW effort used by the US army. It handles thread size ticket 8 (Nm) or Tex 350 without problems, I never tried anything heavier. However, this is not a heavy leather stitcher, it has a vertical rotating hook and is classified as an super heavy upholstery machine. A heavy leather sticker has a shuttle hook design, that ables it to work with heavy thread tension. 4 pieces of 10 Oz will be about 16 mm thick. You can get the machine to penetrate that thickness of leather, with a strong motor/reducer. But pulling a stitch in it, no I do not think so. It will start skipping stitches long before that thickness because of the hook design. It's a great machine, but do not mistake it for an leather stitcher. Tor

Hi, do you have a picture of the complete tool? I would like to se the condition of the rest of it. Thanks Tor

I am looking for one to swap out my Pfaff 345 H3, however the dollar price and shipping will kill the deal. These are great machines, I have the flat bed version. Tor

That's an push beader, it can be used to create a round profile border at the edge of the leather. Often used as a border around leather carvings. It is sharp and will cut instead of crease. You can buy them new but they are often reprofiled from a edge creaser. http://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/bargain-basement/ here you will find some used good ones. It also possible a ordinary single line creaser, it's a very bad picture so it's hard to tell. Tor

Hi Bruce, Pm sent. Tor

That's a nice story MacEachran When I grew up people could not afford buying alcohol. The government has monopoly on selling both wine and spirits. You had to stand in line sometimes for hours to buy some. They added several hundred prosent tax so people could not afford it. We inherited distillation apparatus and the knowledge from our fathers, as they had from their fathers. The spirit was made from sugar and yeast, distilled once or twice to get it over 92 % strong (96 % is maximum before it turns in to gas). Some that had fruit in their gardens made the liquor based on that and that tasted sometimes better. From the strong clean spirits people mixed their own whiskey and Brandy, but it tasted like crap. The best way was to drink it clean (96 % strong) with Coffey and sugar. Saturday night when we went to the dance party they served only halv full Coffey cups, but every body was drunk as H.... Every year before Christmas my father made alcohol, it was not legal but the police turned the blind eye. Everybody who was not rich did it, the police families too. The government still have the wine and spirits monopoly, but the prices has normalized (still the most expensive place in Europe, thought). They have turned it in to a regular shop with service minded people. Most people want to keep the government monopoly, because they treat their customers well and they have a huge product range. Young people today do not make their own liquor, but many buy from smugglers. The smugglers sell to everyone including kids, so I do not know what the government trying to achieve with their alcohol policy

Where I live we use something a bit stronger in the coffee. It's between 94 and 96 % pure alcohol and we make it our self. I belive you call it moonshine. We call it coffee doctor over here, I think that's because you often need to see one after drinking it Tor

That's great Bruce, I can send you some more of that special liquid saddle soap. Let me check and I let you know later today, that's tomorrow for you. Thank you. Tor

http://www.kwokhing.com/KHF/ Tell them what machine you have, they have more that is listed on their site.

Anyway, that motor won't sell for 25 USD. If he paid 400 dollars for that motor then he should complain to the police, it's a robbery! Only good thing is that's a four pole motor, they are easier to control and can rotate both ways. However, it's add no value to the machine, you most likely will give it away and install a servo motor. Tor

Hi Marius, although the Flomax 335 clone is a versatile machine, they would not preform well with any thicker thread than than Nm 40 (tex 69). Perhaps a size heavier on top, but the small bobbin will not take much of it. There are versions of the new Pfaff 335 that have a larger hook and perhaps some clones do too. Motors, I was offered the same motor as Uwe found on Ebay for free the other day. The Efka variostop is from the 1980 (and up). It's a three Phase clutch motor (380 V) with needle position, electronic clutch and brake. It has 6 to 12 pre set speeds on the pedal depended of model and was the first of its kind. Marius, you know these motors, you had the same on your 45K machine. We set that motor up with an frequency converter and it sewed just fine. I think the motor I was offered for free is still available if anybody needs it. It's in good condition but the location is Oslo, Norway (pickup only). Anyway, 200 Euro it way too expensive for that old motor. If you can buy a Ho Hsing G 60 serie 600 watt servo motor for £ 160.-, then you will have a professional motor for a good price. It has a needle position that works as it should do, and they say the low speed control are very good. That's a plain motor with needle position only, but you can add a Ho Hsing control box to it later. I did not know that was a possibility before I saw it yesterday on their YouTube channel. That means you can build on anything you want to it, just like their more expensive motor systems. That option is a game changer, for sure. Ho Hsing make top motors and are a alternative to Efka. A Japanese motor with a price that can compete with Chinese motors, that sound good to me. I have a friend that bought one for his Pfaff 345 cylinder bed, and he says it preforms well. Let us know what you decide to do. Tor

Hi Nelson, That's a red smurf, one of the machine operators that came with the machine. There was a hole bunch of them that worked on this huge machine. The others had lunch when I took the photo. When I sold the machine they left too