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Hi, I am sorry but unable to find the company you are referring too. Will you please link to them. Thank you Tor

Hi, have you adjusted the bobbin case opener? that allows the thread to pass true the narrow gap between bobbin case and needle plate? I have a DA 267 990056 -373 with Efka DC 1600 (silver color) and I`m very happy with that machine. I was new (unused) when I got about 6-7 years ago and both machine and motor has preformed flawlessly. Good to know there are plenty of part available for it. That is, If it ever would need any; It still runs just like new. I`m looking for a DA 269 (cylinderbed) to replace my Pfaff 345. I like the 345, but it has no hook safety-clutch, so it often requires re timing. Those DA 269 are still very popular and hard to find used. If anybody know of a good one (preferable north of Europe) please let me know. Thanks Tor

Hi Jimi, thats a very nice needle plate, all those teeth marks are on the other side of the stitches. Saddler's used these bottom feeds for more than half a century. You could try a roulette roller-foot (from Cowboy Bob http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ or http://www.kwokhing.com/ ). Some of these roller foot`s comes with Teflon /rubber rings that does not leave mark on the top. A roller foot will ease up on the foot pressure. The technique minimize marks on wegtan is to let off most of most of the foot pressure (and perhaps rounding of those feed dog teeth a bit with a ceramic stone, or use a thin Teflon tape on top of them) and helping the feed by hand. You got to press the material down when the needle is down making the thread loop, and help the feed; when the feed-dog comes up (from the needle plate) to feed. You got to very slow in the beginning before you master this technique. Then as soon as your finished stitching, you must wet the teeth marks with sponge (with water of course) and hammer out the mark with a smooth faced (polished head) leather hammer. You got to be quick before the teeth marks fixate. You have to hammer the seam anyway to close the stitches, now you doing both in one process. You can use some force, but not as much as you widen out/crushes the leather. Very important: Remember the material must lay still (not move) when the needle is forming the loop; or else it will skip stitches and perhaps brake the needle too. Be very careful and go slow. You can remove some of the edge of the feed-dog teeth, but removing to much and it will not feed good. Perhaps you using in on fabrics too, then they has to be sharp. There was somebody in the forum that melted a layer of some protecting film over his feed dog, but I cannot remember what kind of material it was. Perhaps Wiz knows something about this, it does not hurt to ask him. Tor

Hi Jimi, yes it does, the jump foot goes up and follows the material back-wards; before it jumps back to its starting position (like the movement of a upper feeding foot). Its not driven as the upper feeding foot, but spring loaded. The advantage is that you can sew with less foot pressure, then again less marks. The class 5-5 (who is an other subclass) has bottom and upper (such upper feeding foot). Same as the newer Adler 105-25 (as I`m selling one of now). Thats again an improvement over the jump-foot system, you are able to feed better. To address the problem with leather and bottom feed, Adler then made a needle feed subclass; 105-64 (and 104-64 flatbed version). It had bottom and needle feed, it preformed best on leather with a roller foot. The needle does most of the feeding job in a modern triple feed leather machine anyway (set up with smooth feed dog and feeding foot). So the -64 subclass performed well on flat leather, but was a poor climber. The later Adler 205 came also first in this subclass (-64), before they built on a triple feed system on it: "205-74". Who later became the DA 205-370 we know today. So the class 5 is its grand father. The Singer 45 K was also available with these same types of feed and uses the same shuttle as the class 5. Tor

Hi Steve, I am fine thank you, and I hope you are too. I have not been online for some time, I have been busy elsewhere. Yes I know the class 4-4, they do not make them like that anymore. I am in a process of freeing up some space my self, selling a A 105-25 and a Pfaff 491 post bed. Looking true this 441 manual now ( and my PC is full of manuals now, I better start backing them up my PC is not new anymore) In fact I find it a bit short. There are several undescribed adjustment processes missing in it, related to the feed adjustment and so on. I do not want to go any deeper in to this right now. And perhaps Juki meant thats all we need to know. There are one ongoing topic in this forum related to one of these adjustments right now. What I meant by "good manual" was the way its been written and illustrated. Thanks Regards Tor

Hi Jimi, I am more of a Adler type of person. I do have an old Adler class 5-27 who is the same machine as a 45K (cylinder bed, bottom feed with jump foot). I have used that for many years, but now I use a 441 clone. In fact I have own several old Adler`s class 5 and 105 (I am selling one 105 now)

Thank you Walter, this was a very good lesson in how to correctly set up an awl blade. Its obvious you have been hand sewing all your life, this was very interesting. After reading this I have gone true all my own awl blades, and they are all either to rounded or to pointy set up. I now understand why they need to be just like yours; to strike perfect in the middle of the pricking mark. I will reshape one and try this out. Great guide Walter; thank you. I have also experienced some problems with the LW text editor before, I solved them with clearing my Internet browser cache and history. That seams to have taken care of my problems with it. Anyway, I hope you are well; its been some time since I last was online here. Thank Tor

Somebody should start making these lower needle guides, I think they might fit other machines too (perhaps the DA 205-370). They would sell to every one that uses a 441 with these closed "noodle plates". Safety against skipped stitches makes you breathe easier when sewing a valuable piece work. Tor

Yes Amuckart, I am asking for the same thing too. I do not remember the topic in your link, but it has been discussed in other topics as well. I have not seen anybody selling such lower guide yet, but it seems like Ed knows about it. Hi Wiz, My machine came as a normal TSC 441 would have done, with no leather attachment what so ever, I bought all my attachments from the USA. I did not buy the holster plate, because I thought the stirrup would work very similar. Thats was before I knew anything about these problems and was trying to save some dollars, otherwise I would have chosen the holster plate. And yes, I thought about modifying my blanket feed dog to work as such guide; under a closed (top feed) needle plate.The reason I did not was because the original Ferdco patented lower guide had a different hole in it. And there was always small hints in topics that it was available, like in Ed`s. I should also do more research before altering my blanked feed dog, and you never know when it might be useful as it is some day (when its gone). Buying a finish lower "noodle" guide would of course be preferable. There was one member, I think it was the same one that made the 3D printed stirrup plates for us. Do you remember him? he altered his cowboy stirrup plate so he was able to use a feed dog beneath it. He grinded away most of the plate and it did not look very solid after this modifying, it was not much left of it. (there are a reason for the use stainless steel or similar hardened polished material in these plates) Until we get any answers from Ed and perhaps other who might know anything, I will leave my blanked dog alone. And instead trying to keep this topic alive long enough to get some answers. Thanks Tor

Jimi, I did not see that one, only the old one.

Hi Ed, it seems like this topic died with several unanswered questions. I will like to add the same question that Amuckart did, what kind of lower needle guide do you have in your machine and where did you get it? For those of you that do not know what this guide is used for. This type of lower needle guide are used when special needle plates do not allow the use of a feed dog. Skipping stitches may occur without it when the needle bends away from the hook tip. And that may happen with the 441`s long needle system, heavy thread tension and material. I believe the adjustment you are talking about is there to make sure the needle hits in the middle of the feed dog (or lower needle guide). It should not matter which screw on that bar clamp you open to make the adjustment, the result should be the same. (You should set your stitch length to zero and control your hook needle timing too. Without such guide or feed dog installed, your adjustment might have a influence on the hook/needle timing. Its nothing other than the plates needle slot that limits it) It is like Greg writes in his post; the Juki 441 machine is original set up to sew fabrics and most clones are again adjusted after the original Juki manual. It may not work well for your sewing conditions. The aftermarket leather attachments are again not made after Juki specifications and therefor requires a different adjustments. So there are no right or wrong here, just what works for you. Valnir, these attachments ( presser feet`s, dogs and plates for leather work) are sold by most 441 clone dealers, like Cobra, Cowboy and Techsew to mention some I do have most of these aftermarket feet's and plates, even bought from the same supplier; paddle feet's and harness feet might be made in different heights (like mine). And non of them have the same height as the original Juki foot. Thats a pain in the ........ when you change to a different foot; you have to adjust the alternating height (so both presser foot lift to the same height). I did experienced lot of skipped stitches using the harness and stirrup plate (the slotted and the raised special needle plates). Because of the lack of a lower needle guide and because the stirrup plate was to high (it changes the the thread loop size). And if your hook-needle timing is a bit off, you will for sure experience skipped stitches under these "extreme" sewing conditions. Even when it sewed well with the standard plate, it skipped stitches with the special plates. A perfect hook needle adjustment made it a bit better, but it still skipped stitches from time to time. I reduced the height of my stirrup plate and it preformed better with it, but it still needs a lower needle guide to sew perfect. So now my preferred setup is a smooth standard plate and smooth feed dog; all these fine attachments is almost never in use. Thats a shame because I need them, my hope is that a lower needle guide will solve the problem. But where do I find one? I hope I do not have to make one myself. So please keep this topic alive! Thanks Tor

"Copy and clone all apart from the noodle system", Its an old Singer slogan

I had this one in my manual collection, I do not remember where I found it. Does it matter, its here now. Tor 45Kmanual.pdf

Hi all, sorry for late replay. Here is a new link to my 441 folder, it contains a engineer`s manual (adjustment/service manual) and a part list. Hi Steve, I am afraid I do not have any operators manual. Other information about this machine is the threading/info videos on you tube from Cowboy Bob. However, this engineer manual contains a sewing error guide that can come in handy. This manual is better written than most such manuals, I'm sure you will find it useful. This link is valid 8 weeks from today, I do not know if its legal to publish it like this? please do not tell anybody http://shares.1hund.com/s#7c91568e-98d5-4400-82a4-c0ad658a1155/torrougseth.clouddrive.1hund.com/441/ Tor

Sorry, now I see it. I can send you a link to my part list and manual so you can find the part your self. Message sent Tor

Hi Kent Harald, I think Weaver would be a good place to buy this machine, good support is priceless on such new(heavy electronic) product. If this is going to be DA`s new saddler machine for the next 45 years, like the 205 has been; then they going to make sure every thing is proven alright before they release it. These people are Germans and will not release something that do not work properly, you can rest assure about that. Yes the Weaver machine stands look much better made than average, But I think European stands are better and more modern built. However, US table tops made of plywood are then again much better than the European tablespoon ones. You will need the support in the beginning, when your back in Norway you probably know the machine well already. And to get a leg in with those Weaver guys can be a valuable thing later, they have allot of nice tools and machine not available back home. Tor

Thats right Gregg, and I have moved up to using the Efka DC 1550 on my 441 machine. Very happy with it, more than enough power and a time saving setup. Expensive, but no need for a speed reducer and life time support. I also use the older DC 1600 on a smaller machine (a DA 267), a very good motor too but not for sale anymore. You will understand why these motors cost more when you use them and get free support by Efka on Skype (if needed).

Hi, the machine uses Juki spare parts, you can buy them anywhere. And this will happen from time to time on any machine, its a screw with much use. Do not use a screw from the hardware store, it needs to be top quality so it do not break off inside the needle bar. Then you have to drill it out again, I have tried that a couple of times on other machines. It can be expensive to buy a new needle bar. The screw you need is: Juki part# SS 6110710-TP screw 11/64-40 L=6.5 Thats the part number, and the machine name is JUKI TSC 441. Thats all you need to order a new screw from Juki. Not many clone brands has their own spare part program, no need for that. They should have been using a allen screw there like Duerkopp Adler does. I see you do not have to change the hole needle bar on the 441 if you have a stuck broken screw in it. You can change the small bottom part of it with the needle screw and thread guide, named "needle stopper" # 210-92408. Tor

Hi Lucas, Takk for sist. I did not see your topic before now. I happy to see your project was a success, very nice built. And that a 90 W motor is proven enough is a bit of surprise, but I see the gear ratio. The time you where visiting I had no sewing machine set up with a converter, but I have had many before. I have used them mainly on 3 phase clutch motors because the lack of such power in my workshop. Even on 3 Ph old Efka variostop`s ( position clutch motor with electronic brake and clutch) They always have worked out great. I haven't had any use for the pedal (pot meter) on any of them, I only limited the top speed on the converter and used the clutch. I could alway go as slow as I wanted on the regular clutch motors, a stitch an hour if I wanted to. On the Efka variostop`s they only worked as converters because the motor control box regulate 6 to 12 pre set speed on the pedal and will compensate for any speed limitations set on the frequency converter (in the lower speed end that is). I recognize the humming you talk about, thats just the wrong frequency (speed) on the motor. Then I just set the hertz a bit different, some hertz up or down and it disappeared. I understand that can be difficult on zero, but then I guess the problem must be the pedal. Perhaps an adjustment or changing it will get rid of it. I am glad the Global worked out well to, it looks like a very nice machine. Overall a job very well done. Tor

That's terrible bad news, it feels like somebody close have died..........

Hi and thank you, I guess it tells you to oil in every marked oil holes. Lubrication like every other industrial. One drop in every oiling point prior to use is important on these heavy machines.Tor

Hi, there are oil holes marked with red and small oil holes on every moving part's. One drop of oil in every oil hole before use or once a using day. Use white sewing machine oil to avoid stains, do not use rust prevent type of oil on spray box, because its acid in it. The hook is the most important part, make sure it's always has a oil film on it. Do not over oil the machine, then you will have oil all over your place; a little drop will do the job. Good luck Tor

Sorry John, I never seen a video of the needle hook timing on that machine. Use a new right size needle according to the adjustment/service manual. Set the needle bar height (I think it should be about 15 mm over the needle plate, U can use a piece of paper to see that its not penetrating it). Prior to this make sure that feed dog is in the center of its cutouts and the needle hits in its center again. Make sure you have the right distance between the needle and the hook (as close as possible with out hitting each other) when this is done, adjust the needle hook timing on the hook gear; unscrew set screws and move it on the shaft (if necessary). If this is OK and it still won't stitch. Check your bobbin case opener; it should open and pass bobbin thread true. If not it may not stitch. Pfaff uses a special tool; a needle bar clamp to hold the needle bar in the right position when timing, I use a hose clamp with some leather inside to protect it. And clamp the needle bar in its right position when turning the hook gear. Be careful not to damage it (or buy the right tool from Pfaff) Good luck Tor

Hi Strigamort, yours look much better than the one I have. Perhaps its a much better knife, it hard to tell from the pictures alone. Does it have a micro bevel? It looked like that to me. It typical Tandy to put the "professional" on it to add value. No professional bought their knifes from them, when you could have a CS Osborn for the same price. I am afraid the steel cant take a normal bevel without breaking off the tips, you are officially warn about that now. I would keep it in the box as a collector item, it looks very good. In some years collectors will want it.

Hi Mali Hi, yes I see you live in Oslo too. I will PM you after the holiday and we can meet up at my shop or yours. As I mention above, I do not have much use for this tool as I am mostly using weg tan leather and have all the tool/machines I need for that job. But I am compulsive tool collector, so perhaps I get it anyway. I do have several extra leather sewing machines, splitters etc. If you need something like that; just let me know. Vi snakkes senere MVH Tor