Trox

Hi, I bought from Andreas in Sieck too, but thats more than two years ago now. I cant help you get hold of Andreas, he is a very busy man. I think he runs that company alone, he is hard to get hold of. What is the problem? I never said the AB 321 and the DA was identical, far from it. Then you must read the post above one more time. The DA 321 is a Dürkopp Adler control box and the AB..... is for all other lock stitch machines. Part from that they perform the same way and are for the same motor: DC 1550. The motors Sieck sells are the same as every other Efka motors. Two years ago there where only two types; the DC 1500 (400W and 3Nm, for the small machines) and the one I have the DC 1550 (600 W and 8 Nm, for the big machines). The AB321 control do not work for other than the DC1550 motor (Perhaps its possible to reprogram it, but Sieck don't know how to do that. They only sell them, thats it) Recently Efka has listed two new motors for flange mounting; one small DC 1200 (550 W-3,4 Nm) and the DC 1250 (750 W - 8,2 Nm). These are smaller in size (but even stronger than before), made for flange mounting and direct drive. I have no idea what motor you have in your system, is it not a DC 1550? I am sure the smaller motor is cheaper than the big ones. You got to consider that before comparing the price. If you buy from Sieck its cheaper, but there are no small talks within the deal. You get what you pay for; in their own good pace. What kind of machine you use it on? If you need more torque there is a way to turn them up even more. I have no need for that on my 16 and 1/2 inch 441 clone; I only use about half of its power. Tor

Hi Yanni, The DA 321 control box are made for Dürkopp Adler machines and do not have any parameters for other machines (part from some other machines that are made for the DA company) If you going to use this control box for a DA machine its just plug and play, if your machine is for example a Juki you must re program the hole box. I received the DA control by a mistake and had to call Efka to re program it. Efka did it by Skype video phone (when it was mounted on my Juki 441 clone). They helped me until my machine sewed as I wanted it to do, It is a free service "of course". The AB 321 control will fit all other lock stitch brands, and have all parameters pre installed. Sieck.de sells these motors for a lower price, (I am not sure if it still is lower than that) but do not offer any support. Thats no problem because Efka company gives free live time support on all their motors systems. That is part of the package you get buying an Efka motor. Make sure you get the right control box for your machine, it will save you allot of time. Greg @ Keystone sell these motors for 895$ http://www.mcssl.com/store/keysew/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors This is not the latest model anymore http://www.efka.net/index_en.htm My advice is to contact Mr. Manfred Kretz @ Efka ( M dot Kretz att Efka dot net ) (Replace the att and dot`s with @ and . and take away the spaces between, I write it like this to avoid spam). He will help you find the best motor solution for your machine and tell you where to buy it too. Say hello from me, he is a very nice and helpful person (thats his full time job too ). Good luck Tor

The Adler is of very good quality and will sew about 14 mm thick, as long as the material is flat. Its no good on climbing. Its a bottom and needle feed and will perform better with a roller foot attached. A Cowboy class CB 3500, CB 4500 or the new budget CB 3200 (only 1500-1600 $) are "pimped" Juki 441 clone with triple feed. They will out preform the Adler in all but quality. Then I have to remind you of the Adler being a 40 year old machine. I have both the old Adler and the new 441 clone and I use the last for my sewing. That said, the Adler lays down a beautiful stitch. Tor

Constabulary, Here is an other one I use on my skiving machine. (on the wall, laying on the top of the machine is a bigger controller not in use) I run this on full speed all the time, its for the bell knife motor only. It has a little 220 v servo motor for the feed wheel that goes direct in single phase outlet. Actually this machine has three electric motors; one for the knife (380v- 3 Ph), one for the feed wheel (220v- single Ph with a pedal for the speed) and one for the exhaust (220v -single Ph). So I connected the two single direct to the outlet and run the Freq. converter on the bell knife motor (on full speed 50 hertz all the time). These controllers regulate frequency on your AC motor; 50 hertz are full speed. If you give it 25 hertz it runs on half speed and so on. (all clutch motors are AC motors, and all AC motors are originally 3 Ph. Some are rewired into single Ph motors) A normal 3 Ph sewing machine clutch motor is much simpler to hook up than this one. When you look for a controller for your clutch motor find one that can handle a bit more than your motors Watt and Amp ratings. You find than info on the motor sign. Good luck Sorry for the off topic. Tor

It coverts to normal single house hold current in to 3 phase current; to run the motor. And lets you control all the motors parameters, such as speed, torque, start time, stop time...... you name it. You can set the max speed as low as you want and let the motor have maximum torque at that speed. Like one stitch a minute if you want to. You can also attach a pot meter to regulate the speed, like a pedal just as you like. (otherwise you got to use the buttons and the display to control it). I do not have 3 phase current in my workshop so I use this systems on my 3 phase motors. You loose a couple % of the power this way, not much. Sometimes the motor makes some noise (wrong frequency), just change the speed a bit and its gone. You need one that can handle the amps rating on your motor. Its easy to connect; single in on the top (on this one) then the four motor cables out underneath. Earth to earth and just change the other three around until your motor turns the right way. You got to download the pdf to find out how to program it, its not very difficult. Every electricians know how to do it. Or send me an PM and I tell you how to do it. Thats it Tor

Thats right what Thesergeant says; the Pfaff 1245 guide will fit your Singer head. Like Wiz mention the people in Kwokhing do not know these old machines. They produce for new machines like Juki, DA and Pfaff with clones. As Greg Mention you probably have to tap holes for it on the back of the head just like I describe in post #37 in this topic. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=37299&page=3 The machine here is a Pfaff 345 cyl. bed, but the head is very similar as a Singer 111 W. These kwokhing guides are very fine edge guides I have them on all my machines. I like the Pfaff type the best, those made out of square tubes and rods. Hi Contabulary, the guide in your link is a Kwokhing guide. (look closely on the pic below and you see their logo. Its a KG767). Kwokhing makes them and sell them to dealers all over the world. Before I paid 25$ for a guide like that, but I guess some of the dealer complained about that because now the price is much higher. (I understand that very well) Anyway, I you buy these same guide from DA you got to pay around 400$. Kwokhing is located in Hong Kong, send them an email and ask for Mr. Bosco Ko. Find the number in their web page and order, pay with paypal. No problem, fast shipping and good service. Parcels arrives even faster from Hong Kong than from the USA to my location (far north... Oslo) There are some extra customs delay in parts of main land China now a days, but this is Hong Kong...No problemo. Try it out. Or by your guides from Greg at Keystone, he knows the Singer machines.. for sure. Thanks Tor

Like I said I have expensive Efka`s and Chinese Eco motors, but the 3 phase clutch with freq. converter works almost better than the expensive ones (part from the needle position that is). I even used such converter on a 3 Ph Efka varistop with no problems (only on the motor part, single current direct to the control box). It has worked for ten years no with out any problems, with out any extra heat from the motors. I only uses the same as they do in all modern industry today; Ac motor with a frequency controller. I currently have three setups that has worked flawless for many years. I am sorry for the off topic, this is for all the others looking for motor alternatives. Thanks Tor

Hi Caroline, The Pfaff 335 is a small arm horizontal hook for thin threads and light leather work (threads up to tkt 20/3). Pfaff 345 have a vertical hook, thicker arm and take heavier threads (up to tkt 12/3 depended of subclass) .The subclass H4 is the heaviest. Both H3 and H4 is suitable for leather work, H1 and H2 are to light. There are companies in Europe that sells Chinese clones too. Like: Sieck.de that sells cowboysew/Hitex machines under their own brand "Sieck". Medium cylinderbed machines are Dürkopp Adler clones DA 269-373 (heavy stitcher's are clones of DA 205-370 and Juki TSC 441). They also sell used machines. They sell Global in Belgium and Highlead in the UK. In France they sell several brands like Gemsy, Fox and more. Typical is an other clone brand sold in Europe. A clone machine sold the USA has normally an other name in Europe. If you buy a clone machine buy it from somebody that offer support and warranty. Do your homework prior to buying, ask questions about the brand here. I do have a Pfaff 345 machine my self, they are good machines. Make sure it is complete and in working order, original Pfaff parts are very expensive. (hooks, feets and plates can be found aftermarket) Imca in Haarlem (in your country) sells Global that is a well known clone brand, they also sell Ho Sing motors (very good Japanese pro motor systems). They are big on second hand machines too. Good luck Tor

Please let me know when the Chinese manage to make an modern sewing machine motor that actually works as it should. For those who cannot afford a Efka or a Ho Sing; Try a 3 phase clutch with a Frequency converter (and a speed reducer if its a heavy stitcher). Thats the system with the worlds best low speed control; for sure. Its the cheapest options also, normally you get those old 3 phase clutch motors thrown after you. Its easy to find a used frequency control on EBay too. The wiring its easy, all you need then is a sewing machine and a single phase outlet. Good luck Tor By the way nice topic!

I see what you mean. They sell them for the shoe repair machine, like cl. 30 and 29th. However, they are 12 and 24 volts only. Not much power in them either. And it's the same kind of motors they use for car starters, without the solenoid parts that is. Italians make lots of nice stuff for the leather industry, to bad they do not translate their websites in to English. Tor

Hi Constabulary, I did not start out with expensive Efka`s either; first I used old Adler's with 3 phase clutch motors/frequency converters for many years. Bought and sold old machines and still have some old Adler's,(cl.105, cl. 5, cl 30 and a couple of postbed`s),Upgraded my equipment as time goes by. I started out with an beaten up class 30 as my first machine; still have it (I do not use it any more because I have an upgrade) I know of Ocel Moretti motors they have a new position motor that is half the price of an Efka, unfortunately not strong enough for big machines. Their clutch motors are famous. Check their web site, this is not my own PC and I am not able to use copy/paste on it so you must use a Google search. When I translate "Anlassermotor" I get "starter motor" in English. Perhaps you mean a gear motor, with internal speed reducer (gears). They sell them for industrials too; Chinese made but only 110V. However, you can use any AC 3 phase gear motor on your machine with an frequency converter as a control box. They convert to single phase and let you control all motor parameters. You can attach a pot meter/ pedal for the speed control. I used this system on my three phase clutch motors, have one on my Adler class 5-27. You can go as slow you want; one stitch a minute if you want too and you still have the clutch if you want to use that. Its a very good system, that's probably my favorite. You get used to the position system and wont use anything else; needle always stops where it should stop. Its fast and easy, labor saving. I love the old Adler machines too, they lay down a beautiful stitch. However, they cant to the same as an 441 leather setup machine. You need the triple feed on wegtan leather, it is the best system for all leather. and non of the old heavy cylinder beds have that. Tor

Hi Constabulary, thats right its a pain in the......... to get them here. A Norwegian company wanted 450$ to order one for me. And with Norwegian salaries a custom job in would be three times that amount. Nobody sells budget servo motors either. And if you go a head and buy a Efka 1550 or equal, you cannot use a speed reducer (you do not need one either). The new style digital servo motors like Efka 1550 or Ho Sing equal, do not use their position head to control the distance they drive. Like the old Efka variostop motors do, where you adjust the needle position in the synchronizer head; (on the fly wheel). New motors have that same head to count belt slippage only. These motors are made for flange mount or direct drive on the sewing machines main shaft. A qog/gear wheel reducer would work very good on them. If you where to use a normal speed reducer on such system; you got to put that sync. head on the speed reducer and not on the machines fly wheel. A bit off topic, nevertheless important information to take in consider when building up a heavy leather sewing machine setup. I use such Efka 1550 on my 441 clone and it do not need any speed reducer, just like Efka promise. You have to pay more for the motor, get a good one with lots of build on options, good speed control and lots of power (up to 1800 Watt and 8 Nm torque, motor can be turned up in parameter settings). You do not need several tensioned V belts that steals allot of power from the application, you get video phone support from Efka for free (they help you until your machine sews as you want it to do). On my 441 I use only half the power of the motor. I have two such systems now (sold one) Efka DC 1600 on my DA 267-373 and a DC 1550/ AB 321 control box on my 441 clone. And next time I set up a machine for my self I will pay the little extra for the quality and performance of a Efka system. I am sorry to say so; Chinese do not master the sewing machine motor build yet; not by far. Their machines are now acceptable, motors are far behind the Japanese and Germans ones. Some of these Chinese motor will not pass the European CE control either, some wont stop sewing when you let your foot off... danger! Its important to have a cheap option anyway, I hope they will be better soon. Anyway, I love your custom made speed reducers. Sark9 and Electrathon you both did a great job! I want to show you how one of our members built a speed reducer, I think he used a washing machine pulley. And this was some years ago before others made this same system. (I am not sure when exactly) Next: a Swedish Cobra owner living on a boat with limited space available, this is a good way to mount a new motor. A better way would be using the same belting they use on Harley Davidson custom bikes; toothed belts and pulleys. Next: my Efka/441 setup; lots of space here. Next: My old Adler 204/ Efka variostop (sold); not much space here, I had to improvise. It does not look any good, thought. And last my Pfaff 345/cobra and reducer; motor are strong enough without the reducer. I do not know why I used a reducer; I think I was not satisfied with the low speed part of it. (Its now fixed with some tape in the light control; it lost some speed but are much better) Last pic`s: my 441, Pfaff 345 /cobra servo, Efka DC 1600/DA 267-373 setup, the DC 1550 I use on my 441 clone. Well it was a bit of a side step; nevertheless motors are closely connected to the reducer topic. Thanks Tor

Nice Job Constabulary, I actually bought my speed reducers from Germany too (Chinese cast two speed iron, ball bearing from Hightex/Cowboy) I paid about 50 $ for two. I ordered them from China and they sent them to their German agent, Sieck International (Sieck.de). If they have more of them I guess the price will be higher now. This was some years ago. The reason I tell you this is because I know its not that easy to get low priced speed reducers in Europe, (as you may already be aware of). Tor

Hi Macca, yes he makes beautiful tools. I will post picture of his others leather tools later, I really like his style. Tor

He is doing those on his lathe, he have made many attachments for it that can do every thing; even make rosettes. I guess the white in the handle that is either ivory or horn. The awl blade is made of a car spring and have a hardened tip to hold an edge longer. Here is some of his other small hand tools; where the handles are made from cocobolo, ivory,horn black wood and brass. He does them all in his lathe. This is one of his hobbies. I also do leather work and he made all his hand tools him self. He told me he could not afford to buy them I will ask for permission to show of his leather tools here too. He made a copy of Blanchard's pricking wheel that is very impressive and a draw gauge in gun metal that is very nice. In fact all what he does looks very good. I have tried to talk him in to making me some tools, but I understand its allot of work. Thats one of the reasons I do not want to post his name here; he is going to get overrunned by tool requests (and its only one of his hobbies). I am going to make a new topic about his tools next week, this week I am too busy. Thank you for your comments, I will make sure he knows. Thanks Tor

I ordered new bit for my burnisher motor from an English tool maker I know. It was a custom job, from my simple sketch and he did a great job. It fits my motor shaft perfectly and runs without any vibrations. He trowed in one of his awls as a gift too. Its a Little beauty. And of course for leather, its cocobolo and brass. This is Christmas all over again. Tor

Thats not a motor problem. Here is several things to check out: Its most likely the twisting (twink) of the thread that does this. Thread top thread true all guide holes, several times around the top head thread pin. And center the guide above the thread spool to be exact in the middle of the spool. This will take the "twink" out of the thread, that make uneven tension. Otherwise, check the thread tension release pin, that push the tension disk open when you lift the presser foot (check for faults). Increase foot pressure will sometimes help on such errors. Check for burr on hook tip. Wrong size or damage needle. Good Luck and keep the motor. Tor

Hi VanDutch, I understand you have the King Cobra machine with the EPS motor (position motor). I do not have the same setup as you. I use a expensive Efka servo system on my 441 machine that are strong enough without a speed reducer. I do have a regular Cobra servo/speed reducer on one of my other machines (same motor without EPS) These motors are among the most powerful economical servo motors on the marked today. Although they have had some faults on the speed control before (that has been fixed now) they have always had enough power. Very strong compared to others in the same class (price range). Its not fair to compare them to `high end motor systems as Efkas and Ho Sing that cost 1k $. If its a loose part on the machine somewhere in the needle feed a position system will stop, it reports the wrong position and the motor will stop. Or turn an extra rotation, thats the way these systems works. What ever the fault is you can rest assure you are in the best hands, Steve will make it right. And if it is a motor problem, I still think its related to the position system. The EPS motor is the same as the regular servo motor with a built on needle position system, same spec`s, power and torque. Together with a speed reducer it should have no problem sewing that on slow speed. Good luck. Tor

Hi Frans, do you have the EPS motor or the regular servo motor without needle position (Called EPS by Cobra). If you have the EPS and your machine flywheel is loose the machine will stall, because of the position sensor installed on it. It will send faulty signals to the motor to stop. Otherwise, I would need to know about your sewing thickness and thread size etc. to see if its normal or not. This motor should be powerful enough for this machine. Good luck Tor

One of these will for sure know where, if they are not able to help you them self. http://www.pilgrimshoemachine.com/ http://www.leightons.ca/catalog-general.html Both makes parts too. By the way, I have seen these for sale on on European EBay sites pretty regularly. Tor

Its a top feed shoe repair machine with limited bobbin thread, that will mark up your weg tan leather. Nevertheless, a must in every leather workshop for all job`s other machine will not do. This is the heaviest subclass, max stitch length (new) 5 mm. Foot lift 12 mm., needle Nm 110-200, thread TKT 40/3-15/3 (max tex 180). These are the factory spec on the new class 30-70 (long arm big bobbin). with 12 mm. foot lift you will be able to sew up to about 8-9 mm. thickness. A very fine patcher it is. Thanks Tor

Search this forum, there is someone (in Canada I think it was) that specialize on these. That sells part and needles. I might be wrong, but I know for sure its information about it here somewhere. You can perhaps find the part list and some help on this. Good luck with your sole stitcher Tor

Hi Novaroper, there are not much "paperwork" around for these class 30`s. Is it the new "square" head Gray color machine, or the old green "round" head ? I have something for the new machine, for the old I have only the part-list. The new Adler class 30 is made on license by SL special sewing machine Germany http://www.sl-spezial.de/sl/index.php/shoe-repair.html , Perhaps they have some more info. Otherwise in the blog of Thomas Brinkhoff (Head of spare-parts DA) http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html you will find the manual and part list here. Be patient and let the download finish, it takes time to download. If you have the old machine I have the part-list, just PM your email address and I will send it to you. The rest of what I have you will find in the links above. You can also use (user) manuals on the Singer 29K- 72 or the ones for the Singer 29U171A_172A_173A (the file format of the 29U machine in the Singers web site). The last one is a very good operator and service manual and very similar to the Adler class 30. (The machine is not made to sew as heavy as tex 207 thread, on a test piece with lighter bobbin thread; maybe. In real time repair sewing..... you will have stitch errors. Not that many before you are out of bobbin thread, that is ) Good luck Tor

Hi Constablery, I would demand my money back for such dangerous motor. Its a very easy to stitch true your fingers. Its clearly a construction fault, it's not doing what it's supposed to do. Good luck Tor

Hi Dirk, nice job. Although I have enough skiving knifes, I am always on lookout for high speed steels that could be made in to good knifes. The wide wooden drill bit was a good idea. And it turned out looking good too. It also have a hole in the blade to hang it on the wall; very nice. Hi Michelle, if you use high speed steel like used in drill bits and hacksaw/metal saw blades, U can heat them very much without ruin the tempering. (Bi metal is not usable, look for hs or hss markings) I use a cheap bench belt sander for the grinding/sharpening of my blades. It runs very cool all the time; I normally do not need to use any water to cool down the steel. I use normal wood belts (because that's the only I find for it) 80 and 180 grit. When the belt is almost worn out it gives an almost polishing effect. Then I use a buffing wheel (with buffing/grinding compound) for the polishing. Thanks Tor