Trox

Thank you for the explanation Walter. Now it is the Soccer world championship qualifying Norway-Switzerland on Ullevål stadion in Oslo (not far from where I live) Swiss is leading by one goal, must the best team Winn. Good luck Walter Hi Walter, You want to sell this? Whats your price? Tor

In addition to what Wiz has explained, I have learned a little trick to finishing off the sharpening. To avoid building up a burr on either side of the knife, I use the deburring stick and the sharpening wheel together; and stop them in exactly the same moment. Stopping one before the other can leave a burr on either of the knife sides . Inspect your knife edge, use your finger and feel if it has any burrs. (Do not forget to turn of the power first, or else you get a very short manicure) Like in all leather skiving the knife edge must be the right angle and very sharp to get a nice skive. Did you find the fault? Tor

Yes, you are right, this looks to be a Kochs Adler 220-76-273 ( a two needle with 76 cm arm) Heavy high speed long arm upholstery machine. Complete subclass number should be on a small plate on the back side of the head. The Adler 220 is a big triple feed with vertical hook(s), made for use with very heavy threads. It has a very big XXL hook and uses needle system 7 x 23. This machine is very similar to the Singer 144W and145W (one and two needle). They was used in the car industry to sew upholstery on to wooden door panel in cars, and other heavy duty upholstery jobs. Both the Singer and the Adler have high foot lifts from 16 to 20 mm (depended of subclass). It still is no heavy leather stitcher, its a extremely heavy upholstery machine. It lacs the shuttle hook needed to perform well on heavy leather. It can be used as a one needle machine as well. The motor is a new German Pfaff, Quick Rotan system servo with needle position. Similar to Efka and Ho Sing mini servo motors. If you need info about it you will find it on Pfaff http://www.pfaff-industrial.de/pfaff/en/service/downloads/technicaldocu/pfaffdocument?doctype=technical (you need the complete motor number of course) These machines are very expensive new and used, but there are a limited marked for them. Therefore, you can find good deals on them sometimes. Adler stopped to produce this machine in 1984 and replaced it with the newer 221 (a upgrade). The 220 came with 35, 50 and 76 cm free space to the right of the needle. In one and two needle and a few different subclasses. These are mainly used in factories for heavy straight seams on everything from awnings and upholstery leather to webbing and polyester with heavy threads. Like I said above, its no heavy leather stitcher and parts will be expensive and perhaps hard to find (check with your local Dürkopp Adler dealer). They are expensive but not easy to sell. What kind of work do you want to use it for? I found this leaflet on the World of Dürkopp Adler parts http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Leaflets_Adler/Leaflet_Adler_class_220.pdf max thread size tex 180 (tkt 15). Thats a lot less than the Singer 144W-305 (76 cm arm, which is very similar), I had one before and it sewed tex 400 all day long. Despite high foot lift and heavy threads, it lacs the shuttle hook needed for heavy leather. Further info, check with Thomas Brinkhoff (head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler) in his blog "the world of Dürkopp Adler parts" http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html Good luck Tor

Hello Walter, Thank you for explaining the process of making those embossing plates, I now understand the process. I also understand that the embossing process of the box loops will work best with a press like yours, when it gets some time to fixate. Thank you for taking the time to write it in German too, I understand German but have no practice writing it. You have posted a lot of new beautiful tools since last time I was on line. I love your Griffe à Molette Collection. As usual you dig up tools I never have seen before, what do you use those strange looking double crossed line pricking wheel for? (pic. #1, post #107) Are those for decorative seams? Where are you buying your wheels now? Blanchard. It does not look like you need any new ones for some years, thought. Pic.#5 and #6, post # 113 is a tool I never have seen before, is it something that only exist in Switzerland and perhaps Germany? Is it better to use around edges than a standard French edger?. About French edgers, it looks like they do not exist in France anymore. The Blanchard one in your pic looks very old to me, ebony handle its at least hundred years old. The tool you call "Abebner" to cut away leather close to seams, do you know the French name of this tool. I think Vergez Blanchard still list one like it "COUTEAU A SURTAILLER LAME MOBILE" # 3_756 http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/liste_produits.cfm?type=31&code_lg=lg_fr&num=2&pag=2 with a knife who is removable. Blanchard do not have any good pictures of it. Is this the same tool? About the new Adler 967 and 969H machines. I do not know any more about the price yet, Thomas Brinkhoff will inform me about it and a comparing with the TSC 441 machine too. The price is important of course. However, its a brand new machine that is bigger than any other cylinder beds on the marked today. It can not be compared to any clone machines, its not built to compete with those. Most important, this looks like it does not need any kind of modification for saddler use. They have made a machine for us leather workers, I hope we will be able to use it too. Yes,It all depends of the price of course. Beautiful tools Walter, keep on posting; we love this stuff.

Hello Macca, I received the knife today, thank you very much. A very fine knife that fits both my Mayer Flamery and Blanchard plough. I did expect it to be shipped from an other country, since you are a brit. Thank you very much Macca, I owe you one. Tor

Yes that exiting, it will not be cheap. We will soon know the answer to this question. Tor

Hello Gregg, What kind of speed control do the new Consew CS -1000 have? did they come up with an improvement over the light control? thanks Tor

If not all the way to the moon, is an impressing machine. Its being showed off on exhibitions as we speak, and it will be available for sales within a quarter of the year. I do not know the price yet, the head of spare parts (Thomas Brinkhoff) ensures me that its parts will be affordable. I am talking about the price of accessories, hopefully it would not need much other parts yet. I understand this have a bigger hook than todays standard (70% more capacity), 30 mm foot lift and can handle up thread size Nm 5/3 (tkt 5) TEX 600. It have 12 mm stitch length (15 on the flatbed) and a 12 mm sewing foot stroke (alternating height). We will get more information later and a comparison with Juki TSC 441. If we read this data it has already out preformed the 441 and its leather clones. This is data direct from Dürkopp Adler who is known to be modest about their performance data. We have to remember the original Juki have only 20 mm foot lift, compared to that it a massive improvement. I know of no other cylinder bed (lock-stitch) who beats this data. It looks to me that this machine do not need any modification, its all there from the factory. When it has a inbuilt motor it has to be prepared to plug and play direct in 110 V outlet too. The only thing I know about the price is; that it is not built to compete with the clone machines. I look forward to see it. Thanks Tor

I am no electrician but I am afraid that will ruin you motor, its variates the voltage. Be careful that you do not burn your motor. I use frequency converters on my 3 PH motors to control the speed like that, it also convert it to a single PH ( and loose a Little bit of its power, but it works well on 3 PH AC motors) If you motor is a 3 PH it will work, if its a single PH its a different story I am afraid. Then again, I am no expert Tor

Look perfect that knife,Thank you

Thank you very much Macca, thats very generous of you; It looks very good to me. If you sure you want to sell it that cheap? I say Thank you very much. PM sent Tor

Hello Macca, thank you, Nice collection. Do the knife you offer me to buy fit in a Blanchard plough? I want a extra knife for my two French plough`s.Thanks Tor

Hi Macca, The number says simply # 6 1994. If you are going to sell the other knife I might have a plough I can use it in. Send me a PM if you want to sell it. Thanks Tor

That might be possible but then you should find some aftermarket or used parts, because Pfaff spare parts prices are killers. A needle plate for my 345 was priced to 1000,- US $ at Pfaff. You can buy several used old machines for the price of those parts. Tor

I agree with K-man it depends of the material used in the burnishing tool and method of edge burnishing (wax or not). You can also make a new shaft fixed in two bench mounted frame-bearings and a V belt drive (two pulley`s that make a gear). Then you will have a pro tool, and as long as you want to without stressing the motors bearings. Frequency controllers are generally more expensive than cheap bench grinders. Tor

Hello Itch, I know this is off topic but anyway. A member friend of yours (raysouth) told me that you have a very nice embossing machine who is made by a Amish gent from New York. I am looking to acquire such a machine and wondering if you would please care to show me a picture of your and perhaps share your opinion of it. I heard the tool maker is hard to get and do not use modern communications, that will make it very difficult for me to get this machine (I am based in Oslo , Norway). I was wondering if this machine is worth the extra time and effort compared to the Bunkhouse embosser. I saw your youtube video of the smart belt punching machine of the same maker, it looked very good. In advance thanks Tor

Hi all, Like many others here I have to many machines right now and I am going to sell some of them (if I find the time to do it). In my one man`s shop I have a DA 267-373 Efka DC 1600, a Pfaff 345-H3 Cobra servo/speed reducer, a Singer 29K-72 with a clutch, 441 clone with Efka DC1550, old Sandt clicking machine and a Italian Alpha skiving machine. Backup and for sale: Adler`s 204-64 Efka vario stop, 105-25 Clutch/speed reducer. 5-27 el. controlled clutch/speed reducer, 30-15 black on treadle (x 2), 30-7 green-12 volt Dc and treadle, Singer 236W-100 post/clutch, Pfaff 491 post Efka variostop and a complete shoe repair shop with German machines (every machine, even key copying machines and cash register, every thing you need to start including materials) And I bought another big machine some days ago, it looked allot smaller in the picture than in real live. (I bought it over the phone) Its a big industrial Runo foam saw for cutting mattresses ( factory saw) Its a bit to big for my use, but its a very good machine (band knife) Anybody need one I could trade it for a smaller model or something else. he he Thanks Tor

Start with reversing two stitches and sew back over them, then the problem is gone with the wind. Have fun with your new toy (read tool). Tor

Hi, I too use the center grover foot, and for a reason. It does what its intended to do, set the stitches deep (make a groove for the thread). If you do not like it use the center harness foot instead. By the way, the center harness foot is constructed a bit to wide , where it attach to the foot bar. It to big to allow the double harness foot, but it can be modified. Not all of the available clone pressers are made with 100% accuracy, I have bought from different brands. They all look the same, but some are made better than others, the Cobra pressers are the best I have for the 441 so far. I now have all available attachments for this machine except for the holster plate. The setup that works best and leaves the best result (in my opinion) is: A standard needle plate with the groves polished off (with a buffing wheel) with a smooth feed dog. Feed dog height: 1 to maximum 1,2 mm over the needle plate (original height is 2 mm. and it pushes the reins off the plate at that height), a grover center and the harness presser foot. I tried out the slotted plate, it leaves exactly the same markings underneath the leather as the above mention setup. Minimal push-out marks from the needle only. Moreover, it does not feed or climb as good . The slotted needle plate is indented for harness and reins, lovering the feed dog will give you the same result and feed much better. Just my opinions, it may come in handy when figuring out what accessories to buy (if you cannot afford them all, they are not cheap) Good luck Tor

Well, there are Chinese business mens who are involved and they are making sewing machines to make money; to make money you need marked shares. The sewing machine dealers did not sell many heavy stitchers in the 6000 to 8000 $ range last year, it would not be smart to price them too high. They are made in China but they are new technology and the developments cost has to be covered. We cannot compare them to the cost of making copies without spare part programs. Its hard to predict what the price will be, even if its a product like no other it has to compete with whats on the marked today.

Hello all sewing machine freaks. I got an email from Thomas Brinkhoff: head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler(DA) today; about the new DA 969 H cylinderbed and 967 H flatbed machines. These brand new H type machines are made for sewing extreme applications (such as our heavy leather work) and have a high foot lift of 30 mm. Uses a big shuttle hook and have many exiting new features. I do not know much about them yet, only what shows in their youtube video http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/products/htype/969-190382.html It seems like they have used the best from the 69 (60 series) and combined it with well proven arm and shuttle hook technology from the 205 class. I liked the little new hook thread guide/guard you see on the shuttle driver, that protects the thread from getting hooked by the bobbin spring. Why have not anybody thought about this before. You can open the top of the head and get to the shafts, thats no reason for a all closed head like the old (read current) 205 and 441`s. It will still be a strong construction, the ones we uses today are more than hundred years old technology. Never change a winning team/ construction, they say. When it comes to leather tools, OLD is GOOD. However, this new design looks good. Internal direct drive position motor of course, this is not news. The easy position adjustment wheel near the thread tensions are new (at least to me), I like this idea. This can also be used as an add on on any high end system motors (like Efka and Ho Sing, its a accurate pot meter connected to the motor control box). As mention above I know very little about them and I have asked for more information, if I get it before its available on their web site; I will of course share it here. It looks like DA has tried their best to make something for the saddler for a change, and its about time they did so too. The last one is a rebuilt needle feed from the 1980`ties (205-370), this is actually the first real triple feed X heavy cyl. bed machine Dürkopp Adler have ever made. Therefore, I hope they have made it affordable for the saddler too, I think they have to do just that to sell machines. Thats my opinion anyway, before knowing enough about them that is. Anybody who have more info or opinions please let us know. Thanks Tor

Thank you Walter for the explanations, it is very interesting. To bad the engraver is not with us anymore. There are a few of your words I do not understand, could you please explain the process in German. The process of of copying the pattern from the original leather to the copper negative. Do not stress about finding any engraver, only if you meet one anyway. I do not wont you to have any extra trouble/work because of me. However, I will be grateful of any tip thank you very much. And thanks for taking the time to explain all these interesting techniques. About the Bunkhouse poly embossing plates. I have bought a few from them, they also sell under the seller name ducktrader on EBay. I use the plates in my old German Sandt clicking press, I do not know exactly the power of this machine. It has between 6 to 8 tons pressure, I think. The company recommend to put a sheet of heavy rubber under the leather when using them, and I do. They provide the rubber with the dies/plates, and they hold up good so far. They are pretty cheap and some of them gives a real good impression, some are not that good but still workable. I also tried another poly embossing plate bought on the Ebay, they ship from Thailand and Spain. The plate was very thin and wrongly made, I can not recommend these plates. However, Bunkhouse is very nice people and their plates are very strong. I am looking at their embossing machine too, it takes a one inch roll and can be used with a variety of other rolls. Its a simple design that works, it gets good reviews. Its about 500$ for the machine. I got a tip about another machine made by a Amish man in New York that should be a better machine in the same price range. However, he is hard to contact because he do not uses any modern forms of communication only letters. Moreover, he do not respond frequently to these letters either (once a year). I think thats not possibly for me who lives so far away. I was thinking about welding up a embosser myself, but then again I get paid for doing leatherwork and not welding. To something completely else. I got an Email from Thomas Brinkhoff (head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler) about the new 967 and 969 H types machines from DA. They are made to sew extreme applications (such as our leather work), have a very high foot lift of 30 mm. Integrated position motor, electronic bobbin winder, easy adjustments of stroke and position. And a very smooth design, and I bet they cost allot of Euros £ $. They have a video of it on Youtube and on their site. Nevertheless, no pdf data sheets yet. Looking very good. Tor

This is great stuff Walter. The Internet makes us all neighbors. I like your set up very much, the machine is nice too; small and handy. Lots of people uses the bigger shop press for embossing and cutting like the example in this thread http://leatherworker...showtopic=35165. The loop patterns looks very good, it takes much time to hand crease them. I bet the embossing plates was expensive to have made. If you have a good contact on embossing plates you want to share please send me a PM or post. I am looking for a manufacturer of metal embossing plates. I am buying some poly/fiber plates from Bunkhouse tools , http://www.bunkhousetools.com/ they are not bad. But I am looking for someone who can engrave custom metal dies too. Your loops looks very good, what kind of leather do you use? Do you emboss bridle leather ( waxed leather) or do you use wegtan. Thank you for posting Walter, its been very informative. Tor

Hi Walter, A very nice splitting machine. I have been searching for splitting machines for years; all I have seen was Osborn and Dixon machines. Now you are pulling out of your hat the strangest looking machines, one by one. All your machines are new to me; I have never seen any of them before… Amazing. And do you still have more? Keep up posting. Moreover, they all look 100% perfect. When you talk about loop box, is that something that you use to make box loops for harnesses? I would love to see that, thank you. Your grandparents look good, their clothes looks just like Old Norwegian traditional clothes too (Part from the lederhosen, they used hand gesponnen kniehosen). Thanks for posting Tor

Hello Walter, beautiful pictures, thank you for posting. Tor