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Trox

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Everything posted by Trox

  1. Hi Walter, the Dixon plough gauge is very sturdy built, perhaps a bit over top. I cant imagine anybody who would cut leather that thick. However, this model is the most popular plough in the USA, and Australians are crazy about them. Bruce Johnson has a waiting list on them and they sell for top dollar. The Barnsley tools was always a bit less expensive than the Dixon and their plough was of a simpler construction. Here you see a old and a new Barnsley plough, I have seen tho older looking a bit better thought. The new is made of the sons of George Barnsley ( who lost the company name, they now may have got it back) Woodware rep.(pic two). The last picture is a plough with the old Barnsley maker stamp and has to be from some of the latest tools they made before the company closed down 2004 (I think it was). His sons continued to make wood working tools and some of his shoe making knifes (sold very cheap) under the name of Woodware rep. I think there has been a long fight against the legal system to get their maker name back, It seems like they have got it back now. http://www.28dayslater.co.uk/forums/industrial-sites/79250-george-barnsley-sons-sheffield-march-2013-a.html There is a private limited company by that name now. A member who lives near by has promised to visit them and get the complete story and check out whats on their catalog today. The latest plough gauge sure do not look like much. Tor
  2. It might use some of the same parts as the class 7, then some important wear parts will be available. Ask Cowboy Bob (Kowar, Toledo Ind. Sewing machine Co.) I think he have some parts for it. What do you going to stitch on this machine, why do you need such a heavy machine? It looks like the 6-11 was made for sewing buffing wheels(as mention in above post #3) sew`s up to 1 inch of material. Its made for sewing in circular movements, bottom feed and vibrating pressers (up and down movement). Looks to have the same shuttle as the class 7 (I thinks so, but I do not know this machine) Tor
  3. The truth is out there..oooooaah Singer6Class.pdf
  4. Which 335 H subclass is it? old gray or a new G type of machine. If its the old machine size might be to heavy. These small arm machines was not made for heavy thread.
  5. When I was a boy there was allot of two stoke motorcycles, one had a German 125 cc Sachs motor. These 441 clones remind me of the sound of one. (my own included).
  6. Depends of the price of course, its a electro mechanical press. And it might be hard to turn around when its been left outside. You should pour paraffin in all oil points and let it loosen up a bit before running it. I just restored an old German el. mechanical clicker. Its been left outside under a big awning during winter and summer time, and needed to bee moved around by force. I got it for free, but was willing to pay for it if I had too. Its now working very well. You can get a great machine with a bit of elbow grease. Before and after pictures Good luck Tor
  7. Hi again, here are some more of my leather tools; I am a bit short stock on some types of punches. However, I have punches for my screw presses too. Hammers, hand sewing related tools, good old English John James and Son harness needles from the 1950`s or probably older. Old linen thread from Bokens , Sweden; from a long gone spinning mill. A old book binders burnisher iron/slicker, CS. Osborn more than hundred years old glass slicker (from Bruce) and mostly US edging tools, one Swedish and a some Blanchard's. And a Norwegian handmade grooving iron (under the horn/bone tools). My eight inch unmarked # 86 splitter and ten inch CS. Osb. splitter. Thanks Tor
  8. Here is some round and skiving knifes. Top row is French Blanchard's, Fernand Mayer, Mayer Flamery. Middle is various French skiving knifes, tranches, E. A. Berg Sweden and two Oslo knifes. Bottom row is CS Osb. and one HF. Osb.. A T. Dixon headknife with a (new handle) A Blanchard cornet (pardon my French) Blade without handle is a Mayer Flamery (which are very good knifes by the way, it will for sure get a new handle soon) I do have more knifes incoming. Thanks Tor
  9. Hello Walter, Ralph and all leather tool freaks, I been asked to post pictures of my tools. I start with the strap cutters, draw and plough gauges. I use the draw gauge for reins under an inch wide, the plough`s for anything else. What makes a good plough gauge; I believe it is a good knife. The one who works best of mine the wide 15 cm. Mayer Flamery (bottom and bottom left in the pic.), because it has the best knife steel. Then next (from the bottom) is a 10 cm. Blanchard. Of the same pattern they make today, but still old. It has a ebony handle knife, I always try to keep the ebony handles even when they have cracks. I fill them with epoxy glue. Next is a J. Dixon 5 inch with a older knife made of his father T. Dixon. The last is a new German 15 cm. M. Paffrath OHG. Left draw gauge is a CS. Osborne brass and the right is a old HF. Osborne latta pattern knife. In the background on steel unknown and a CS Osb. I am going to refurbish. I will continue with the other tool as soon as I get them photographed. Thanks Tor
  10. Hello, now I see the back side, its a mayor modification from Ferdco. It might be the timing of the foot who is wrong, it can be adjusted on A or on the cam (what you call e pinch) on the front of the shaft. The "B" is the shafts collar that ensure the axial position of the shaft only, you cannot adjust the timing on that. I am interested of seeing the top spring of the foot bar, that is just out of the picture at the top; it looks like something is wrong there. I understand it does not lift enough, thats not a timing issue; but a height adjustment issue. You are right about the timing, when the needle hits the top of the feed dog and starts to move it should lift, or else it would not feed right. (with a paper under the foot you see the right moment the needle hits the feed dog) Try to get the foot height right before you adjust the timing on it, because the timing might look different when the height is right. Tor
  11. Thank you Walter, My collection is nothing compared to yours, you got some years on me. I have not been doing leather work all my life. I will see what I can do after I have walked my dogs Greetings Tor
  12. Sorry for the late replay, I would like a picture of the backside of the machine. What I can see Ferdco has modified this machine with an extra shaft ( top shaft on the back) that goes parallel to the needle bar shaft. Thats possible because the -64 head is the same one they use on several other models including the subclass -370 (triple feed). The ears are there to be drilled out and fit the new shaft in too. Because i do not see the back side I can`t see how the shaft is connected. However, I see how it works, (at least I think I do). When it turns it pushes the foot bar upwards. Its hard to see the amount of lift from the pictures. The original -64 you adjust the spring pressure with the top collar (arrow on your first pic) like on almost every other machine. The amount of foot lift height is adjusted on the Phillips screw marked B. You adjust the max foot lift (by hand, on the pedal it should lift higher) to be 12 mm (on the original machine). The new lifting mechanics should work this way; it should always lift the same amount, this amount of lift comes on top of the foot`s already lifted height. No matter how high the foot is raised (the material hight under it) it should lift on top of it. So there is something that limits it. The cam on the shaft (your last pic) should do the lifting. There should be a possibility to adjust this cam`s amount of lift by turning it on the shaft, or somewhere else on its shaft (backside of the machine). What happens if you adjust the spring collar on the top, this will move the lifting block upward and reduce the slack over the lifting cam? Please post a pic of the back side and a pic of some material under the foot (about a 1/2 inch or so) you should also post a pic where the machine is turn in to the lifting phase (needle bottom dead point) I have a hard time to imagine this machine ever would sew 1 inch of material, original it will do a 1/2 inch max) I do not see this cam pushing upwards on any of your pictures? This is very interesting, I got to study the backside too. Please post some more pictures as described. I have to walk my dogs, I would have a look later when I`m back home. Turn the machine (by the hand wheel) and look at the cam`s lifting phase ( the cam under the arrow of your last picture) I will be back later. Good luck Tor
  13. Hi Ray, the machine made by the Amish was this a one time only deal or do they have more for sale. If so where can I see this machine? Do they have a website. I am located in Norway. Thanks Tor
  14. Looks like the Norwegian company Tromas AS did that grinding job, ( they messed up my 8 " mod # 86 blade) Tor
  15. I know the Adler machines both with and without a jump foot/ needle feet and so on. However, I never seen that Ferdinand Bull version of it, if you please could post a picture of it; then maybe I would be able to help you out. I would love to see how that particular machine looks too, quite rare I would believe. Tor
  16. Hi Walter and Ralph (Leather Guru), I came home late tonight and its no time to take pictures of tools tonight, I will try tomorrow. I knew Ralph had a Blanchard splitter, but it was not the model I was trying to explain to you Walter. Never mind about it, I will find a picture of it and post it here later. Walter, thanks for the advising about European splitters. I hope you do not mind if I consult you before buying one, if I find one for sale. The best ting would of course be a band knife machine, If I can find one I can afford I will buy it. Used splitters are generally hard to find in my parts of the world, and people are always looking to buy them. Please let me know if you know about anything for sale. I will try the grinding compound you showed me, Thank you. About the horn falzbein, looking good than Danish bone folder. I cant stand the smell of working with horn, I do not do it more than I have too. So I gladly pay for a nice one. Thanks Here I found a splitter who looks like the one I am talking about, but it did not have the top roller. Maybe it was taken off. This looks to be German, do you recognize it? Its old/sold now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-7-75-BENCH-LEATHER-SPLITTER-LIKE-OSBORNE-KREBS-/111084752391?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=GC5Z9D8xS1sLHCQ7DmB1AGc6Jbg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc Hello Ralph, very nice tools collection. I also admire that large quarter moon knife, beautiful handle as well. They are seldom for sale, I have seen some at French ebay but with simple handles and make. The small knife with a guide, who looks like a bag makers knife. (On the same picture; second from bottom left). Very nice tool, I am looking for one, what do call it? Also the tool to the right of it, is it a small pattern knife? The Ebay link above was close to the splitter type I was talking about with Walter. The Blanchard version of the # 86 looks like an improvement of the Osborn, looks more sturdy in the frame and have a guide to avoid cutting off the straps (I made one myself on mine). You have many fine filet tools (creasing tools), what kind of heater are you using on them. Thanks for posting your tools, very nice. I will try to post some of mine tomorrow. Good night Tor
  17. Hello Bruce, You never stop to amaze me. You have tools in your collection I never knew existed. Most of these makers I never heard about before. Is there any information, books that covers all the old American leather tool makers. I sure want to read up about them if I could. Thanks Tor
  18. Please post a picture of the machine head and places of adjustments. Thanks Tor
  19. Hi Walter, About the splitting machine that looks like a # 86, its do not have a brass bar for material (or it might have that too). However, it is a part of the cast iron frame that goes higher than the roll. I cannot find a picture of it, and I do not remember who had one. Maybe it was Ralph ( my friend the Leather Guru). He has allot of big powered band knife splitters and stuff, I think he has a small Blanchard pull true too. Never mind, If I find a picture of I will show you what I mean. Yes I am looking for a good splitting machine, but cannot afford a band knife. Nor have I room for more big machines in my workshop now without expanding. After I stuffed a big clicking machine in to my small shop its completely full. On twenty square meters i now have, four big industrial sewing machines, a bell knife skiving machine on metal closed stand and a old Sandt clicking machine.Seven bench machines, placed high and low. I got to sell seven sewing machines, I just stored the old ones instead of selling them. Good old Adler's are hard to sell, you never know when these new machines break down and you need a back up. I do have buyers for them too, when I find a nice hand or motor cranked splitter I will sell a machine to finance it. You know the German company Sieck? who sell used leather machines http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/splitting/ They often have nice hand cranked splitters, but always very expensive. I have dealt with them before and can get the price down a bit. However, "a bit" is not enough with those start up prices. That paste you using looks to be very tough, I will certainly try it out thank you. The compound I am using is called Menzerna. Here is a link to their brand new website, last time I looked they did not have one. I bought my compound block from a local leather craft suppliers almost ten years ago, still its more than half left. (and I use it on the wheel all the time) On a cut scale from 1 to 10 (10 is max) ; mine is a 4. Still it cuts pretty good as well as its polish, its a all-round compound. I do have something that suppose to cut more from an other brand, but it does not. You see here they have a full line of products too. German quality, they do not brag unnecessary of their products; they just makes it very good. You know what I mean. http://www.menzerna.com/en/products/solid-pastes/metal/?num=1 Its a button for German language top left on the site. It has maintained my tools and refurbished many old ones too. I do need something that grinds lie the one you showed me, I will give it a shot. Thank you
  20. Hi Walter, that was a very exclusive thread rack, but very very clever. I have seen one for sale at Ebay not many days ago, but now I cannot find anymore (it was cheap because no one knew what it was). Most be very good if you want to make your own hand sewing thread out of sinew or similar. Thank you for the explanation of the La parfaite rapide splitter. If I understand you correctly these machines was hired in by the big companies with their operator; an heavy belt maker/saddler ( or a driving belt maker in English, who made big industrial leather driving belts for machines) From what I can understand from the French explanation on the tool site you posted a link for.(It is a picture of it there) It can do a lap skive and both a left and right skive too, Is this correct? The splitter # 2 you have a Mayer Flamery version of is called the # 83 Spitler`s combination splitter; it does both lap skiving and splitting (see article from Campbell Bosworth about splitting machines) http://campbell-bosworth.com/articles/Splitting-Machines.pdf This is a smart little machine similar to the # 84 Keystone. I have a Heritage copy of this splitter and it works fine. The # 86 is made buy many companies, I have a eight inch with out maker name and a ten inch CS. Osb. ( both purchased from Bruce). However, I have seen them in European versions too, green color. And a strange looking model with a top frame over the roller, I cannot see the purpose of this frame because it only have one roller and apart from it looks exactly like the CS. Osb. model 86. Yes the best ones are hand cranked or motor driven, I have been looking for one for a long time now. No luck so far. So you like those huge round/half moon knifes, 12 inch, thats 30 cm thats some knife. Thats the "Crocodile Dundee" of round knifes . I have a couple which I regards as big: an Blanchard 19 cm and an Fernand Mayer 21 cm. Those are small compared to yours. I seldom use them for other than long roll cuts, I find them a bit hard to control on smaller jobs. Yes, I use a similar grinding paste like your of German origin. I keep my tools polished with it and have no need to resharpen any of them, I am only polishing them on the leather strop board or a buffing wheel. Thank you Tor
  21. Hi, It was down for a long time. I checked it with this site http://websitedownrightnow.com/leatherworker.net.html and this site reported it was down for everyone and not just for me, handy site.
  22. Hi Walter, thanks for the pdf`s, very nice "tool pornographic`s". I saw some tools there I never seen before, like the Machine à parer # La parfaite rapide" Seems to be a splitting machine that can to skiving too?. Are you familiar with this tool? Among the four splitting machine in the Blanchard catalog there is a well known Osborn #86. Then two others I never seen, one of them looks like the one Dixon offers. I know Blanchard made (or sold) that model too. Back to your post #1, In the picture # 6 first row (Werkzeuge 012.jpg) there is a black cast iron clock, beside the pyrograpic tool I been wondering about for some time now. Looks like some kind of heating clock or something, what are you using this tool for. Finally, back to our bellowed round knife. In your opinion are the Blanchard knifes with one (or several) medailles any better that the ones with out. I am getting my eyes opened for American round knifes now; more every day. I have several good CS. Osborne's with Newark stamping. My favorite user now adays is a little 4 inch HF. Osborn, very sturdy and superb steel quality. Apart from one of my Mayer Flamery knifes, the Us made knifes seems to have a bit thicker steel than the French. I just scored a 5 1/2" William Rose and a small 3" star marked CS. Osborne on the Ebay. I heard many good things about the rose knife, I see they sell for top dollar too. There aren't many old leather tools to be found in my country, I have to use the web to get what I need. I bought allot from French ebay and of course I buy from our friend Bruce here, he offers very nice tools and is a pleasure to deal with. And he is a walking dictionary on leather tools and splitting machines. For those who do not know him I recommend him highly. Walter, all your tools look completly spot less; did you buy them all new? They look very well cared for every one of them. That brass plough looks like it was made yesterday, and it has to be old since the maker is the Rossler. Thank you Tor
  23. Hello Walter, I have been looking for this catalog for a long time, it is a great find. I have seen some of it in the in the "Dictionary of leather-working tools, 1700-1950" by R.A. Salaman. The G. Krempp`s who was the successor of Georges Lutz, (according to the book) had the exact same tools in his catalog as Simonin Blanchard had. And the catalogs have the same date too, perhaps they used the same print to save money (as many leather tool seller still do). A other reason was that every French tool makers made tool from the same patterns, as even German makers did. I have tools from several French makers: Mayer Flamery A Paris * Fernand Mayer, Paris (who may be the one half of the latter) * Ullathorne & cie, Paris * Dumay, A Paris * Depose * SNCF (and a vertical) B. Even some with maker names I cannot read any more. However, they all seems to be made of the exactly same patters. You can see some difference in choice of material and shape of wooden shafts sometimes. Apart from that they are all alike. According to history there where toolmakers in every backyard in the old times, perhaps the big companies bought unmarked tools from them and put their own mark on them. I do not think thats far from the truth, and then later producing them their self. Perhaps also employed some of these backyard makers in their own firm. That history might be out there somewhere to be found, I hope its not lost for ever. Anyway, I am very interested in the PDF copy of course, that would help many tool freaks like me to identify old tools. I would be very pleased if you posted it, and perhaps I also could ask you for an PDF copy too. I will be bold enough to send you an PM (personal message), because its not wise to publish any emails online (spammers will bombard our email in boxes and steal our valuable time and perhaps info too). In advance thanks. I am always on lookout for nice old leather tools, some time ago I found an old Blanchard saddler hammer with a strange bone shaft. The steel did not look very good, but it had the right shape of a good saddler's hammer. (when your name is "Tor" you got to love hammers). After several hours of restoring on my band grinder and polishing wheel it is usable again. Have you seen this kind of handle on any Blanchard hammer before?, its black, brown and white bone and not Ivory. Could it be from a mammoth? It is bone but not as hard as whale or walrus teeth's (and it do not smell like a horn). If you have seen something like it, please let me know. Thank you Tor
  24. Amazing work. Thank you for sharing Tor
  25. Thank you Walter, I keep an sharp eye on this thread. Good luck Tor Tor
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