Trox

Make one from a blanket set. kwokhing.com sell reasonable priced foot set; about 10 $ a set. It easy to make the piping foot yourself with a Dremel rotary tool. http://www.kwokhing.com/juki/441.htm Good luck Tor

Hi Adi, you where right about the subclass number, I found the subclass list some other place in my computer. I mailed it to you, did you get it? I had a problem with the timing on my machine and the hook gear was stuck on the the shaft. I could not get it loose to adjust the timing. I had to knock the hole shaft out of the machine to get it off. It was the markings of the gears set screws who made the problems, I had do sand them down and polish the shaft to fix it. Now it sews like a champ. I may use a bit of removable locktite if the gear moves again. Its no clutch on these, I maybe should forget about the locktite and let it move instead of breaking something else if the machine jams up. I might be a good idea. Tor

Thank you, a bit small but I got the picture. I try to say I understand how it works now. Thanks again Tor

Hi Mia, then take it off put it in a vice and make a 90 degree bend at the end of the lever so it catch the foot lift. Or drill a hole in it and put a screw in the end that catch the lift. You can do it. Tor

Hi, Steve, do you have those slotted plates in stock? nobody want to sell me a slotted plate? Tor

Hi, here you have an instruction manual from Singer : http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/16U288.pdf. It has a upper and lower feed, some will call it a walking foot machine. However, it is not a triple feed like your Cobra 4. It has a feed dog and a upper feeding foot who both are independently adjusted. Thats not a good thing if you do not need it; every time you want to change your stitch length you must adjust both feeds equally. It does not have the needle feed that is so important on a leather machine. You would have to choose where you want it to mark up your leather; top or bottom. If you equip it with a smooth feed dog you need to have a serrated feeding foot, or the other way around. It need to feed the material with something and with out a needle feed it will mark up your leather. It will work on fabric and upholstery type of leather, from size 16 to 25 Singer needle size (system 16x63 and 16x64 Singer), Thats not bad. Anyway, I would look for a triple feed machine if you need it for wegtan leather. Tor

Thats the first time I have seen those thread cutters, very interesting, what about a sharper close up pic. Thanks Tor

I use my saddler hammer and sponge of water, you have to do it right away before the the marks fixate. You got to close the seam anyway. Its basic mathematic; pressure divided at square millimeters; a bigger foot needs more pressure to hold the work. You could try to reduce the foot pressure a bit, reduce it until it starts skipping stitches and find the minimum pressure needed to avoid stitch problems. You can also help holding your work piece steady as the thread loop is made, then you do not need much foot pressure at all. I used that technique with my old bottom feed jump foot Adler cl. 5. I managed to reduce the markings from the feed dog to a minimum. Now I use a 441 with smooth harness foot and feed dog. It do not make any marks on the top side, only a small punch out mark from the needle on the backside. Reduce your foot pressure, it should allow sewing with a minimum of pressure otherwise your timing might be off. Good luck Tor

I always hand crank my 29K, it has a motor but I never use it. You can mount the machine on the end of your work table with the arm sticking out. You can also change the position of the hand wheel from back to the front or the other way around. Tor

Very nice! Tor

Hello my friends, I believe Bruce is right because it has no edge, I too have seen these among shoemakers tool. Some kind of shoe welting creaser is my guess too. John, Why do you not post them all in to one post, since they are so related to each other. You see we like these questions, it like a game show on TV. Tor

Hi, If you can take of your dealer hat for a moment and please answer this question as an LW member. What hand-cut stamping tools brand do you recommend that cost less than these. In advance thanks. Tor

Hi, take the pliers apart and remove some of their edges on the grind stone so it gets a bigger bite. (It looks like it possible to take apart). Be careful and keep it cool so it does not get blue and loose its tempered. Tor

Thank you Simon, I too used a Stanley knife when I started with leather work. I fund out pretty quickly that the blade flexed to much and it was easy to do mistakes with it. Like Simon says good knifes is the most important leather tool of all. We might be on different levels in our leather work, but remember there have always been older guys there before us. Using their experience is what this forum is based on, so use it for what it is worth and learn it the right way from the start. Good luck Tor

Thank you, good idea.Tor

Hi Django57, I learned leather-work from Al Stohlmans many books, I had no other way to learn it. Now I am glad I did, because I learned it the right way from the start. No bad habits or wrong techniques that had to be dealt with later. My advise to you is to do the same. You do not have to buy all his books, buy the one called " Leather-craft Tools *How to use them* How to sharpen them* " by Al Stohlman, the grand ol man of leather-craft. It describes all the tools, how to use and maintain them. Then buy your self a good round or head knife and practice how to use it on scraps, you will not regret it. I have all kinds of skiving knifes and tools, but if I had to limit my self to one knife; I would choose one of my small round knifes. On internal corners I use the tip of the round knife. One pattern one knife, you do not want to stop and change knife; then you will have unwanted notch in your pattern. Do not forget to buy or make your self a stropping board, every leather knife has to be polished after sharpening and prior to use. Clicking knifes (like the second knife in your video), is used to cut outside a cardboard pattern. I also use this technique on thin leather. On thick leather I draw around the pattern with a awl (round clicking awl) and let my head knife follow the awl trace afterward. I bet more than 90 % of our members use the head knife and love it. Thats my two cents. Tor

Hi The first knife is a skiving knife, and it is not intended for any other use than skiving. There is no law against using it for other purposes too. You need both a left and a right edged skiving knife (for skiving on the left and right side). Most would use their round knife for this, it has an edge on both sides; skives on both sides and is designed for a roller cut. Get your self a good round knife, thats the saddler's all purpose knife. I often use this style of knife for cutting around a pattern http://www.abbeyengl...GB/Default.aspx you can buy different styles of blades for it. handle £ 10,20 and blades http://www.abbeyengl...GB/Default.aspx £ 1, 056 each. Its called extension clicker knife, clicker knifes are used to cut out patterns. On the picture you see some of my French Blanchard round knifes and one cornette knife. You must register to buy from Abbey (UK), they sell very nice saddler`s tools and have good prices. Her you can buy very fine professional French saddler's tools http://www.vergez-blanchard.fr/boutique/liste_rayons.cfm I hope this helps you. Tor

The wooden clamp is cheaper. Its a bit to stiff , I suppose it softens up a bit with more use. Or else I have to trim of abit wood to make it softer. I have to admit I use a lot of of brass loop staples ( and regular staples on hidden places), not often I take the time to sew my loops. Tor

My Chinese 441 came with a Japanese shuttle, so I guess the Chinese agree with you too. LOL

Thank you Darren and Leather guru. We all learn by trial and error. The value of an old machines with allot of issues is the learning process. My 345 has a binding feed, back and forward motion only. That has to be lowered a bit under the needle plate not to disturb the feed. The way L. Guru writes about above. Pfaff are fine machines, nevertheless, I prefer a Dürkopp Adler if I have the choice. Thats just matter of taste, they are both excellent machines. Thank you once again for those parts L. Guru, they came in handy. Tor

Thats a very good answer, short and well explained. Here is its wooden counterpart. Tor

Thanks Steve, please let me know if you get some pictures to show the use of it. Thanks Tor

Lighter duty rating

Takk Knut, its not that far away, we will figure it out. Thanks Knut. Let me know when you want to sell it. Thanks Tor