Trox

I missed the part about the glue, If it sews fine without. Yes, then you got your answer. I use German "snell" glue or semi fast contackt glue (Kôvulfix). I have never had any problems with glue, However, I have seen others post about it. Trox

Yes if your work moves it can happen.

Bob has a nice threading video on youtube. Change the needle for a new right size and adjust the tension on the top to get the loops inside your work. If necessary adjust the bobbin tension too. If it still will not sew well report back to us. It is probably just a tension problem. However, when you said you had this machine for ten years I was certain you knew its tension adjustments by now. Thats why I talked about other reasons. You say you get your loops when you turn the work? remember to only move your work when the needle is all the way down or this can happen. It can also happen when you have to little foot pressure. Trox

When a mechanic do a service he/she has to sew the machine off, it is not enough to statically adjust the timing and other settings. I see that many have problems with machines after having them serviced, I would not pay for a job half done. I first seems like the bobbin tension is wrong, however it might be other reasons for this too. My Pfaff machine acted just like you described it, some stitches was OK and other had loose loops on the bobbin side. The reason for this was wrong needle hook timing. Call the mechanic and complain, it should not be like this. Trox

Congratulations Darren.

Hi James, No it is not the same needle position to the hook, It is a needle feed machine and the needle moves with the stitch length. Or when you changes from forward to reverse. So if it is knocked out of timing a bit it can still work good forward and miss stitches in reverse. The timing of the hook position is different in zero stitch length than in maximum reverse length. "The position hook tip should be 0,5 mm behind the right needle edge, when the upper edge of the needle eye is flush with the lower edge of the hook tip". See pic 9. This is data for the 205-64 machine, I send you the download link in an PM. You can read how it is done on that machine and compare yours settings to it. The pic 1 is the loop stroke position set with the special tool at zero stitch length. The pic 2 is the distance between the needle and the needle guide; 0.2 mm with Schmetz 328LR size 200 (when the shuttle is removed) The down load link is available in three days and sent to you in a PM. Good luck Trox

Joke aside, on older Adler class 4 and 5 (and Singer 45K) lock stitch machines they sewed with waxed linen and had gas apparatus for heating. I have seen pictures of it in old manuals/part lists. The shuttle was heated. Trox

Sure unwaxed linen works like a champ in all machines. With wax you must use a propane gas heater in your wax pot and trow the pedal to the metal. (and be ready for more butt pains) :rofl: Thanks Trox

Hi James, I bbelievethe cut outs in the flat bed stands always becomes too small. You always need to sew a big project that not fits the cut out, or it is no room to turn it. Like a big bag or something. I have two stands like that and I hate them. There is a other way to do it, it depends of your table legs. Look at this Japanese youtube video; I do not understand what they talk about, but the pictures shows what I mean. Cut the table in a L shape like in this video. You might have to remove some of the left K legs table support, nevertheless, this is much better than a regular U shaped cut out. Then put a paper sheet over the motor bracket and draw off the holes; then you have something to mark where you need to drill holes in the table. Put the machine head on the table and make sure it is positioned where it is room for the motor and reducer underneath. Drill holes and cut out the hole for the V belt, do not mount it yet. Turn the table upside down and mount the motor/reducer and all cables underneath first. It will save you a great deal of work doing it this way, espesiaespeciallyis a heavy clutch motor. Good luck Trox

Hi James how are you? You have owned that 105 for a long time now, if you have not had it serviced now is the time to do so. If you are using a new Schmetz needle (the right size for adjustments; 328LR metric size 200) and not using any thread oil (some makes the thread loop stick to the shuttle), it`s probably a timing issue. I tried to write down the way to do it here, however it takes to long. You better get hold of a service manual and read it your self. I do not have one for the 64 subclass, only for all the other subclasses of the 104/105. There are some manuals available on http://www.sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html too. You can also ask Thomas Brikhoff (head of DA spare parts) if he has the 64 service manual. Or you can probably use the 205-64 service manual, it has the same feed and shuttle as yours (same machine in new wrappings). It gives you a general idea anyway. You do not need all the special service attachments to adjust your timing (as they say you do in the manual). The important thing is that the hook tip is over the needle eye in the loop stroke position. And also is so with tensioned thread in it; there is a play between shuttle and shuttle driver. The position of the shuttle in the loop stroke when the machine is turned by hand (without thread) will be different from the real sewing conditions. (with thread and tension on it, the shuttle will move against one side of the shuttle driver, different timing reading) I have your Email address and can send you the one I have for the 204-64 and 205-64. Pay attention to the adjustments rule nr. 5; producing reverse stitches. A quick way to check the timing is to move the needle gradually down wards in the needle bar and try it. Move it down a bit, lock and try sewing, repeat if necessary. This instead of adjusting the needle bar up and down, if it works you know where the error is. When you do a service do all the adjustments in the right order. A good result may depend of it, start with rule 1 and go true them all. Clean and oil. Good luck PS. do your email server support big down loads 3,42 MB? If not I can load it up to a web link you can download it from. Good luck Trox

To get that head fixed he should have called dr. Phil

Randy, I sent you the email with the manual..

Hi, send me your email in an PM (personal message, and not in this post, because of spammers) and I send you my kopi in a pdf format. Its only 210 kb big, even Gmail can handle it.

Here is some pictures of the old Kochs Adler and the later Adler class 20

Hi, I guess it is a Kochs Adler old class 20, although I have seen this model with other names too. The needle system is difficult when you have no class number. The later Adler class 20 used system 794 (69 mm long) and system 1000 for the the high lift subclass (I do not know how long it is, however, longer than the 794). As far as I know the system 1000 is the longest needle available today, (without special orders) I would ask Schmetz at SCHMETZneedles.com. Take pictures of both sides of the needle in high resolution and measure it accurately or send them the needle. You can also ask Thomas Brinkhoff Head of spare parts business Dürkopp Adler AG http://www.sew24.blogspot.no/ Good luck

Do you need a big industrial stapler to install these, or is it small (less expensive) hand held models available for sale. These sure look more professional than the rapid staples. Thanks Trox

You are welcome.

Hi Ran, Yes I see. I would too, unfortunately I would need a much bigger workshop to do so. I am dreaming of an bigger shop where I can have a very large workbench in the middle, rooming a full hide cow leather at least. My machines will be surrounding against the walls, tools be hanging on a sealing mounted rack over the work bench (much like a modern kitchen cooking island with a large free hanging damp cap). Light colors and lots of modern lightning. My workshop has been re-modeled every time I have purchased a new machine ( about twelve times), just to get room for more. There is nothing else to do, than to get a bigger shop.

Yes they normally just break in two pieces. You are learning, it is a lot of great stuff about your kind of machine here. Read the pinned post about needle thread sizing. Get the 441 service manual, read up on your machine. Remember, this is a powerful machine; do not force it by hand wheeling it if it stops in something. Check what stops it from advancing, you might have a bent needle thats hits the shuttle and will make some serious damage, etc. Normally beginners issues are thread tension issues. If possible do your adjustments on the top thread tension disk, leave the bobbin tension screw alone. The screw is small and easily worn out. Thick leather and thread needs much tension, to make a nice tight stitch. Your machine was probably adjusted and sewn of by Bob. Happy sewing, you will get a hang of it.

This is what they talk about, or what you can use this nice press for. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVyV3ZTVpqY Sadly this is not for sale in Norway, and I guess it weights a bit, will be expensive to ship from the US. I have a couple of screw presses for my snaps, rivet and buttons, nevertheless I want one for stamps. If anybody knew where to get one in Europe, preferable northern Europe. Please let me know.

Hi Ran, You can use the original Juki TSC 441 manual available @ Juki`s web page. This is a clone, it means all parts are interchangeable (some small difference according to the foot lift, the clone has a higher lift). I check and add some oil if needed before start every day. Remember to place a old newspaper (or something) over your foot pedal to avoid excess oil on it when lubricating.

A very light and clean work shop, I wish I had all that empty space to fill up. I do not have a free spot to hang up a tiny edger in mine, good luck with your new machine. I like those big Cowboy flywheels, Hi Bob, remember to tell me when you get them in stock again. I do not know if I really need one, but I want one anyway.

Hi, congratulate with the new machine. I have never broken any needles with my 441 clone (same machine as yours, but different brand). The 441 uses a 794 needle, it is a very long needle . Thats because of the high needle stroke of course. Make sure your needle is at the bottom D.C. before you lifting the foot and turn the material. When it is in this position it is protected by the needle guide and will not break. You probably turned the material before the needle was down in the feed dog (under needle plate level), then it will easily break off. Make sure you have found all of that broken needle (measure it against a new). If not look inside the shuttle race, a piece off a needle can damage your shuttle or shuttle race. I have a position motor on my machine, when I stop sewing my needle stops at the bottom D.C. You must hand wheel until your needle is all the way down after stop sewing. Also when you shall remove your work; lift the foot by the pedal all the way up until the top tread release kicks in. Do not pull the thread direct from the needle, pull out some top thread on the face plate before the needle. This is a safe way to avoid needle breakage. Good luck

There are different kinds of bell knife skiving machines, that needs different motor solutions. Some are like my Italian Alpha skiving machine; it has tree motors. One for the bell knife, is a continuous run motor; the knife rotate at full speed all the time. One small servo motor for the feed wheel and one big continuous run motor for the exhaust fan. For the models with variable speed on the bell knife you can use a clutch motor and like Kevin said; adjust the speed with the pulleys. Then again it might be some skiving tasks that needs the slow speed control of a servo motor. So you see there is no general answer to this question, you use what suits the application.

This is a question about thread size, it must have the correct size needle. I guess it would be easier to change thread size. OK post a picture of your machine and the thread, then we can help you. I do not know what kind of work you want to sew either. On the front left side of the machine head you have a model number. What number has it?