Trox

Hi, The Adler 30-70 is the new type with a square head and a long arm. It should use the 332 LLG, (the subclass -10 and -50 should use the 332L, according to the manual). The thread size you using should not be any problem, thats the same as Nm TKT 40 who is a normal thread size for this machine. With the foot pointing forward against you, the thread should go true the needle on the left side (the side with the long grove). If it is threaded right top and bobbin and still do not pick up the thread is a timing issue. You might try to thread the bobbin thread true the needle plate your self (first time after you have changed the bobbin). Sometimes the machine will not pick it up, However, it still might sew well. If you need a manual for it send me a PM with your email (personal message true my profile) and I can send you the manual in a pdf. Good luck.

Is it the take up spring or a thread guide I see on lower disk? If that hook is a take up spring (and it moves down wards if you try to move it, yes I think that is the take-up spring. I did not see it before, it did not work either because of your threading mistake) you only have to do as Wiz wrote. Thread it true the top disk (top front) down in to the square guide, around the lower disk and over the spring hook (where the thread are going in the pic). Down and under the J-shaped thread-check bar, up true the square guide and in to the hole in the take up arm. Then your threading will be correct. The only missing part will be the hook cover, you have to watch your fingers as you sew.

Leather Guru is right, the first black tension screw is for the bobbins. Then there is no take up spring there, I guess its missing. You will have no problem having the machine to work when you hand wheeling it. However, when you get some speed on it and more thread tension it will start missing stitches. The takeup spring are there for the reason, together with the thread take up arm it will allow slack in the thread so the hook cathes the thread loop. Then it will pull the stitch tight. Do you have a part list on it? check it out. The picture do not show if its a needle feed on it or just a bottom and top feed. If it is a triple feed (bottom, top and needle feed) you can lower the feed dog in level with the plate, this way you will eliminate those marks. Then you also can grind of the feed dog and feets smooth, the needle feed will take care of your feeding. On the backside of the head it should be an adjustment for the alternating height of the feets. On the shaft it should be a slide and a nut to adjust the feets alternating height. Lets have a look on the backside too.

You are right, It must be a 16K-28. It has a shuttle hook like the big stitcher's and can sew medium thick materials. It has only drop feed, however it is in a very nice original condition. A good piece for a Singer collector, you do not see these to often in a this good condition. There is a nice Adler 467 with Rotan pos motor and all air pneumatic for sale to, Any Norwegians looking for a good machine check it out on Finn.no. The thread jungle is not funny at all, if its something our industry should work together against; its a standardization of thread sizes. Even experienced saddler are afraid of trying something new when it involves a hole new size chart. It is complexed enough to remember what needle we used for which thread size, we do not want to take on whole new type of measurement, time is money. Standardizations must be done fast before the politicians starts to mess with it, we still fight about Metric or imperial. I guess we never will agree about what is the best system. I somebody made a Iphone app with threads and needle conversations I sure would have bought it.

Some tape or nail polish lac on the wheel will work too. Trox

I understand why they will not change threads when they have something that works. Sewing threads are a jungle of sizes, it even changes with material its made of. Then it is the old trouble metric or imperial. I could not get bonded nylon to work for me, polyester did and I stuck with it. Many times I wished I used the same as you guys in Australia and USA, that way I knew what you where talking about in the the related topics about it. I will check with some of our US dealers to get some tex. 400 to 500. I guess TKT 40 thread you import are for your Patcher customers, Anne Bonney Locker`s finest bonded nylon? It sounds real good to me. I do not know what you call it, However, "Bonded" will for sure have a relaxing effect on your customers. By the way Here it is some old Singers I know you would have wanted. http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/tilsalgs/object?finnkode=38162206&reference=2012%2F11%2Fvertical-5%2F04%2F6%2F381%2F622%2F06_33347346.jpg price (before bargain) 220$ http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/tilsalgs/object?finnkode=37755993&reference=2012%2F10%2Fvertical-5%2F14%2F9%2F137%2F486%2F99_1625143583.jpg (This one I cannot identify) 120$ http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/tilsalgs/annonse?finnkode=37442286 And a nice Adler zik zak 220$ Plus One 7K-32, 75$ and one 45K with cylinderarm 120$, the add was to old to show. It did not sell and I have no room for more.

Hi Tom, You must go true the rest of the adjustments as well, like the feed timing. When you talk about the upper arm, do you mean the thread take up arm? If you post some pictures of your threading we can better help you. The thread take-up will allow the thread loop be picked up before it tension the thread. You must check your thread take up spring too, lower tension disk. It seems like a threading error. Post some pictures. Trox

Hi Darren, I am only using polyester threads (Coats Gral and Amman Serafil). My big Adler's (204, 105 and 5) like polyester much better than bonded nylon, B. nylon is too stiff for them. Polyester are much softer. The strength is not an issue, they are both almost too strong. My reason for trying bonded nylon is the difficulties to get thick enough polyester for my 441. I have to order the thickest sizes abroad, I cannot get them here in Norway. What brand of threads are you buying in a so large scale? are you selling that much. You aren't afraid it will become old before you get rid of it?

Hi Reese, First of all Adler and Dürkopp became Dürkopp Adler around 1990. The class 267 was made by Adler before and after the merge, all machines sold after 1990 has Dürkopp Adler decals. Then the color can tell you about the age; early Grey/black, later silver and new white. There also a change in production after 2003, after 2003 the 267 is made in China. I comes in two subclasses -373 one needle and -273 two needle and color is white. The subclass Gk-373 tells me it probably an early Grey model. If this does not help you tell the age you can ask Thomas Brinkhoff, head of spare-parts Dürkopp Adler in his blog; http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html A picture will also help. I have a 267 -373 with Efka dc 1600, I am very happy with it. Simple, straight forward versatile machine with triple feed, with the Efka motor it is a dream to use. It will work well for canvas, nylon , leather etc. Mine sews up to 11 to 12 mm thick and thread TKT 11/3 down to TKT 60 (Nm, polyester and braided polyester) I hope this helps. Trox

Not many Consew machines in Europe so I do not know them. I know they are popular in the USA. Read the pinned topics about choosing a leather sewing machine, it will help you. I read a bit about them in the Consew website, I find the machine descriptions a bit incomplete . You should look for a compound triple feed machine ( bottom, top and needle combined feed) The term " walking foot" is often mistaken for such macines, nevertheless, it can be applied to any machine that has a feeding foot. I saw a other topic here a couple of days ago what the letters behind the Consew class numbers meant, (use the forum search option it is a lot of topics about Consews here). It looks like the 277 is not a triple feed, however the 227 R-2 and 287 RB-2 seems to be triple feed machines. I think the letter "R" stands for reverse and "B" for big bobbin. Site says nothing about thread and needle sizes, you need to find the data sheet about them. Our member dealers (top site banners) sells fine machines too, Cobra, Cowboy and Tecksew. They stay behind their product, call them and tell them about your needs. There are a lot of people here that have Consew machines and can tell you much more about them than me. I am located in Norway and have mostly German machines (and one Chinese 441 clone that works well) Any of those Consews will be an upgrade for you. If you rephrase your topic and ask about the Consews, you will get a much bigger response. Do not forget to search the forum, it is tons of information related to your questions here already. good luck Trox

Yes, it looks like the 153K-102 is a bottom feed machine same as your 31-15. You better save up for a triple feed cylinderarm machine, the 153K-102 is no good for leatherwork.

Adjust and thread your bobbin winder right, you might want to let the thread twice around the tension disk and loosen up the tension a bit to get consistensy in your winding. It is more that one way to do it, ask the guys in the factories. They do not hire a person to wind bobbins, they adjust the winder right.

Hi Greta, This subclass of the 169 do not use a foot. You can do as James suggested, buff off the sharpest edge of the wheel since it has no feed on it. Get a rubber band around it or change the wheel to a teflon wheel. You can ask for help on your Adler here too http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html this blog is runned by Thomas Brinkhoff head of Dürkopp Adler spare parts. He knows what is available for your 169 subclass, and he is a very helpful person. Wet the leather as Art suggested and hammer the seam with a smooth faced leather hammer will remove those marks (and close your stitches) Good luck Trox

Hi Amy847, I do not know the different between the Singer 133K-8 or subclass 9. I know that some of them have a so-called walking foot feed. I will try to define the term walking foot as simple as possible: Every machine that has a foot that feeds the material can be called a “walking foot”. However, when leatherworkers talk about a “walking foot machine” we mean a compound triple feed machine. Bottom, top and needle feed working together and adjusted with one stitch-length regulator. In Europe, we simply call this a triple feed machine; this is what works best on leather and thick materials. I believe the 133K with a walking foot is a double feed; bottom and top feed (the bottom feeder is called a feed dog, and the top feed is a feeding foot). I might also have two presser feet’s; one is a vibrating foot and the other the feeding foot. (That alternates; called alternating top feed) It still only is a double feed because it misses the needle feed. The class 133K will sew up to about 3/8 max ½-inch thickness, how thick thread it will take I do not know. Explaining the feed systems are not that simple, however that’s what adds value to a used leather sewing machine. The number behind 133k is called subclass number. Subclass 9 has a better feed system than the subclass 8; it makes it more useable for leather or other heavy work. (It might help you to read the pinned topic about choosing a leather sewing machine, on top of this forum) 　 The 45K is a heavier rating machine, it comes in many subclasses, however none of them are triple feed. How thick they will sew depends of the feed; 12 to 15 mm material thickness. It will take a much thicker thread than the 133K and has a bigger bobbin. The Singer 45K and the Adler class 5 (the machine I believe Singer copied to make the 45K) was the saddlers choice of heavy stitcher for more than 50 years. It is the forerunner for today’s heavy triple feed stitchers, like the Adler 205-370 and the Juki TSC 441. These machines and copies of them (called clones) are today’s industrial standard of saddler’s heavy lockstitch machines. The class 133K is popular in the UK, Australia (used to sew horse blankets) and in Asia for sewing jeans. I would choose a 45K before any 133K, because its heavier rating, heavier threads capacity and bigger bobbin. Some medium weight cylinder arm machines with triple feed will also sew up to 3/8 of an inch maybe more, they will not take the same thick threads. Some of them can be found in Europe, within your budget. Examples are the Adler 69 and 269 (not commonly cheap machines) Pfaff 345 H3 and H4, Pfaff 335 H4 (H4 is the heaviest version of old Pfaff) And Singer 153W with triple feed. About Necchi, It is an Italian made machine. The Italians make fine machines; Necchi makes copies of Adler and Singer machines. I have seen several Necchi 45K copies and some 29K (Adler 30) copies. They are big on domestic machines too. I have never own or tried a Necchi so I cannot tell you anything more about them. However I would choose the Singer 45K before a Necchi copy, although the 45K is an obsolete model parts are still available around the world. Post pictures of the machines you thinking of buying, it makes it easier to help you value them. Good luck, Trox

Thats a little coarse, it is used for plasterboards. I use my dremel tool with a Little sanding drum, for bigger areas I use coarse sanding paper.

Yep thats true, I use a heavy rawhide maul. A light head will only beat up the tool, when a heavy maul will drive the tool through the leather. (of course the poly can`t ruin steel, its just a figure of speaking)

Glue som firm leather (hairside out) to a piece of plywood 2 x 20 inches (or desired size) and get some aggressive polishing paste to use on it, then you have a polishing strop. (or buy one) You polishing by pulling hard against the strop in the cutting direction. When you have a nice shiny or mirror like edge, your punch will glide through your leather like a knife through butter. (almost) good luck

Leather cutting tools has to be polished after sharpening, read all the pinned sharpening topics on top of this forum. Get a strop and some polishing paste and polish all cutting tools to a mirror like surface. You can also use a buffing wheel on a drill, bench grinder etc to polish your tools. We polish all tools on the strop before use . See your edge under a magnifying glass after sharpening, your edge are still coarse. Using a stone like in this video is just half a job, you need to polish it. Post a high resolution picture of your edge and let us see how your edge look like, Good luck Trox

This machine look incomplete to me, where is the thread takeup spring? Its sure not threaded right, nevertheless it will not affect your hand wheeling.

Hi Tree Reaper, I will just add a comment related to your feed dog height. First, the smooth feed dog is a bit lower than the original segregated feed dog. Set your feed dog height between 1 to 1, 2 mm, any higher it will push up your work to much. I tried to sew harness (thin straps) with the feed dog on the recommended 1, 4 mm height. While sewing at the edge the feed dog pushed up to much causing the needle to hit at an angle. The needle exit holes came often outside the strap edge. I lowered mine to 1, 1 mm and it works fine. Any lower than 1 mm it can hit the shuttle driver, and on 1, 1 mm it still feed good backwards. Trox .

Most are oversized, other brands to. I have some Weaver round strap punches they are 1/16 " oversized. If thats your problem? learn to live with it. You trim this uneven edge of with your edger and burnisher, like the rest of us do.

Since the wallet are sewn toghter by strips I would try my bell knife skiver; skive then turn 180 degree and run them true twice. You could also try the trick with blue scotch masking tape. Tape it on the hairside before running them true your splitter or bell knife. This way you will be able to thin them down much without ruin them. I have not tried this myself yet, however a member here tipped me about this trick. It works well with the bell knife, and the blue tape leave no glue on the leather. I think about the embossed parts of the baseball glove leather, it is weak in those parts. Just a thought

I think you should complain on it. What did you pay for this punch? Somebody has to tell them they sell crap. Some of their tools are as expensive as Professional leather tool, quality and finish is not. A round punch should be round; otherwise, they should sell it as a “1 inch nearly round punch”. I checked out Tandy’s price for this punch; 43 $ on sale. http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-eur/search/searchresults/3151-03.aspx It was originally priced to 73 Euro (94 $) and is on sale to 34, 49 Euro (44, 63 $) I am chocked! Nearly 100 $ for that crappy punch. You can buy a professional US made CS Osborne 1 inch punch for 38, 93 $ http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_58_70&product_id=845 That is a much better tool, not an overpriced “nearly round” toy punch like that Tandy. If you want a real good punch that will last you a lifetime. You must find an old forged polished one. Visit Bruce Johnson’s web site http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/leather-punches-concho-slot-strap-end-and-hole-punches/ For about 55 $ you get a old cleaned up quality punch. With high polished forged punch like that you will not have problems like you experienced with the Tandy tool. The two last links is where I buy some of my tools, I can vouch for them both. If Tandy do not let have a new one, post a picture of it here. Maybe it is possible to fix it, I cannot tell with out seeing it.

Hi Dogface, You can read about the lower needle guide in this topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=41581&hl=%2Bferdco+%2Blower+%2Bneedle . Your machine is a Juki TSC 441 pimped by Mr. Ferdinand Jean Blanc in his Ferdco company. They took a stock Juki TSC 441 and made it in to a leather stitcher. Later they made the head them self and modified it some more (higher lift like the Cowboy,from 20 mm to about 25 mm) like the latest Pro 200 Super Bull. Sadly Ferdco is out of business; I belived they started the cloning of this fine leather stitcher ( starded the clone war). Who have become the industri standard in saddlery machines today. Correct me if I am wrong. Your machine is made in Japan and you best use original Juki parts for it. You can also use Chinese clone parts like Cowboy and Cobra. We use Juki part on our 441 clones too. Any Juki 441 or clone will have trouble in reverse with the slotrted needle or bag plate, because only the feed dog feeds in reverse. Trox

The Juki Pro 2000 is to my knowledge a Juki 441 wit a pat. lower needleguide|.