Trox

Hi Sewingtec, Thanks a lot. The parts I need are for a synchronized binder, the feed dog and needle plate for the subclass H3-17/01. Dog: # 91-045 539-4 and the plate # 91-040 701|-4. A binder foot set, a binder swing bracket and a binder for leather. I have received some tips about a company in Hong Kong and some thing on EBay that I am currently checking out. I attach the Pfaff 345 subclass partlist (Are you Thomas from sew24.blogspot.com and Dürkopp Adler?) Thanks Trox kgi582aa.pdf

Tjenere Gong, We do not mind a good joke, we are also telling jokes about Swedes. However, I keep it out of the Forum and the web. Looks like you met a very greedy dealer. There is no reason for such high prices, or do you have import taxes on new sewing machines in Sweden? You will follow the EU prices and can buy the machine in all of Europe. Norway is an EFTA country and follows many of the EU rules and regulations. Nevertheless, you have to check with the Swedish custom about any import taxes. The DA 205-370 is a very good machine; it will sew the same thickness as the Juki 441. It is a more expensive machine, with superior quality and a very nice stitch. But there is not that easy to get aftermarket saddlers attachments for the Adler as it is for the 441 (the price is much higher). What are you going to use your machine for? If you want to use it on leather, it must be set up for it. You must change feed dog, sewing feet’s for smooth ones and maybe the needle plate too. You will need different needle plates, extra feet and guides. Buying this equipment in Norway will be very expensive, you can buy it from Cobra or Cowboy but that accessory are made for clone machines and may have to be modified to fit an Original Juki. Then again, it maybe will fit, I do not know. A clone machine like the Cowboy CB 4500 is already set up for the job on leather, with a foot lift on 27 mm. max sewing thickness at 22 mm. A Juki TSC 441 has a max foot lift on 20 mm. (the same as Adler 205-370) they will both sew about 16 to 17 mm. thick. Therefore, you see, it all depends of what you going to use it for. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb4500.html http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/leather_e/cat94/tsh411_tsn421_tsc441_tsu471.html http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?item=1 http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/triple-transport-machines/prod/1013/ http://www.olafnyby.net/Brochure/brochure2.htm The price on a tool has to be calculated down on the time you should use it, in about 5 years it maybe a new machine for sale that is much better. A price of a good clone is about 14000 NOK in USA. It is complete with every thing you need for the job. The modern Efka 1550, 600 W. will not need a speed reducer on thicknesses up to 16 mm. The older dc 1600 has 750 W. and will do that with out problems, but on thicker work, you may need one in addition. I have two Efka a dc 1600 and an older one. You have total control with those new Efka motors. I will be back with the quotes when I receive them. Trox

Thanks for your answer Bob, (345-H3-C6-LN ) You are right about almost all, but “N” stands for stitch length 6 mm not 4,5 mm. When the machine has only 4,5 mm stitch length it is marked with “4,5”. “C” stands for type C (not described any further) “L” for leather “6” stands for type of needle size a style of point. (What kind of needle, the part list does not tell). I found the partlist and the subclass part list on the web, but I still need the service manual. The machine comes from a closed down portfolio factory, they was making leather bags and such. I have gone over the machine, it is very good. No need for any new parts so far. The hook looks like new and every things seems tight. This is a medium duty machine, I have three big Adler’s for the heavy jobs. (A 5-27,a 204-64 and a 105-25) I am planning to trade them in and buy a Juki 441 or Adler 205-370 ( or a clone). The old machines do the job, but the triple feed is the best system. It is hard to get a clone like your Cowboy here in Norway, they only sell the Juki and Adler’s. I have been looking for a used medium size triple feed cylinder bed For a long time, I was lucky to find this. However, I cannot afford to break anything on it because of these spare parts prices. However, I believe there are aftermarket parts out there for this brand to? I know it is hooks and feet’s for sale, other parts I do not know of. Do you have anything for this machine? Trox

Thanks Bob, It is subclass for leather the "L" in the name. I have just checked the subclass part list and there is an other model with a bit differet fed dog and plate that is for binding. But you are right it must only go that way on a binding machine. I just started a new topic about that subject, I want to set up this machine for leather binding. And looking for parts for an syncro binder. I will just set the feed dog a bit lower, in level with the plate and see if that works better. Please see my other topic about binder for it. Thanks Trox

I just purchased a second hand Pfaff 345- H3-6C-LN I want to set up this machine for leather binding, and the best will be a synchronized leather binder. So far I spend 271 $ for the machine. (It was a bargain) 250 $ for a Cobra servomotor and a speed reducer. Some hours work, (cleaning, building and adjusting) Then, I asked my local Norwegian Pfaff dealer for the prices on Original Pfaff attachments and gotten totally blown away Here are the prices they quoted me: Binder for leather = 288, 71 $ Feed dog = 365, 65 $ Needle plate = 850 $ Attachment for fixing the binder (With rollers and guide for tape) = 404, 2 $ Total will be = 1638, 56 USD And I still need the binding foot set; I did not want to ask for the price, it was already way over my budget. My friend the Leather Guru told me to do the work by hand, but the must be an alternative to the original parts. This is a very common type of cylinder bed machine; I have seen many Chinese machines with the same arm. There must be a more reasonable priced option out there. Maybe some of our machine dealers have something for sale. The price for the Pfaff parts together with what I already spend will be 2160 $, for that price, I can buy a new Chinese binding cylinder bed machine. Anybody who has any experience with leather binding on a Cylinder bed machine or binding work in general. In advance Thanks Trox

I guess I am the only member with this very rare piece of machinery or maybe I have to changes my deodorant. Strange, this is one of the most common cylinder bed sewing machine model ever made, similar to Singer 153w, Adler 169, Cowboy 227R, Consew 227 R and many others. If anybody have some experience with a machine like this please answer my post. Trox

Hi, I just purchased an old Pfaff 345-H3-6C-LN sewing machine. I wonder if any of our members knows this machine. I know this is a machine made for leather because of the “L” in the subclass name. The feed dog is adjusted to high and it is stopping the feed motion, because it is just moving in the same level. It is not moving down under the needle plate on its way forward. When I am trying to adjust it to do so, I cannot find it has any feeding mechanism. Is this supposed to be like this? Because it is a leather model? Should it just be lowered in level with the needle plate to move back and forth in the same level? I do not have any service manual, if anybody have one to share, (or for a similar model in an other brand) I be grateful for all help. In advance Thanks. Trox

The difference in quality is huge, normally reflected in the price. A Japanese machine made in Japan is much better than a Chinese machine ever will be. That said, Chinese machines are much better than before. As Darren said, it depends on whom you buy them from, warranty and support. When a German or Japanese sewing machine is produced in China, they should be produced to a certain spec. and quality. However, they are produced to a lower cost, I sorry to say this, but I do not think we ever will get the same good old quality as before. Trox

Hi KND, The guys are right, your machine is threaded wrong. Did it fix the problem? Hi Cobra Steve, it is a good Idea with a video on troubleshooting treading an simple stuff on your website (youtube), This are issues happening to all brands of sewing machines. Trox

Hi, First, Juki is made in Japan not in USA (and maybe in China too) The TSC 441 is a very popular model that is copied a lot by Chinese manufacturers. These copies, called china clones are imported to the US marked and sold under different brands like Cobra and Cowboy. They are set up to sew leather up to 7/8 of an inch and have many accessories for use on leather. The Chinese produce most of the big sewing machine brands now, even Dürkopp Adler, and the quality is much better than before. Not many buy an original Juki 441 anymore when a good clone is available for a third of the price. The clones can even sew thicker and have more extras than the original. A lot of our member use them daily and are satisfied with them. However, if you decide you want to buy an original Juki 441, the head only cost about 32000 to 35000 NOK in Norway. I cannot believe it cost as much as 70000 SEK in Sweden. One of the best copies of the 441 is made by Global (Global also make machines for Dürkopp Adler). Global is a well-known company, I believe the head is about 25000 NOK. It is also possible to buy a clone complete with stand and motor (an other brand) for that same price here in Norway. Trox

Good luck, The foot is not feeding, the spring action is on the return of the foot. Anyway it is a much better feeding system for leather than bottom feed alone. I have machines with trippel feed and with needle feed. I like this jump foot system better than the needle feed, but the tripple feed is best on leather of course. Trox

Hi, Here is the Adler machine that Claes is a copy of, this machine sews 14 mm thick leather and have no problem with different layers. It is a spring loaded foot that follows the material back as its feeding with the feed dog ( lower feed) The foot moves up and the spring moves it back forward again. The height on the foot is adjusted on the front thumb screw mechanism. This was the previos generation of saddlers heavy leather stitcher, before todays moddern heavy trippel feed (walking foot) machines. It takes the heavyest threds. I still use this machine, it works very well. The price on that Claes is very low and it look very good too. You can look at www.sieck.de for price comparison. Trox

I agree with Wiz, the Claes has bottom feed and a moveabel jump foot. I have a similar feed on one of my Adler machines, and it work very well on leather. Trox

When the hook jams up the safety clutch releases. Then you must remove the bobbin house and clean out the tread etc. before you engage it again. You did not do that, just adjusted the hook timing. So yes, it is must likely out of timing. Hold the hook shaft ( under the bed) and turn the handwheel in reverse until the clutch engages (and you will see the 2 small balls pop out in the clutch) Then check if the tip of the hook is on the center of the needle, over the needle hole, when the needle bar has traveled 1,8 mm from it`s lowest point. Set the stitch lenght to zero before adjusting. Or read the service manual, how to do it. I hope this helps. Trox quote name='soapit' timestamp='1326228635' post='228440'] thanks Steve& Greg .Is there a way i can tell if i am running my machine 180 out. Would it cost alot to refurbish this machine or is it worth it.

Hi, I just sold my Adler 67-73, great machine but I changed it for a new 267-373 with Efka Dc stop motor. I still have part list, manual and service manual on Pdf, but in German only. They are hard to find in english You can buy 2 needle conversation kit`s for this class and for the 267 machine also, that may explain the 2 holes in the tread trake up. Parts and manuals are available here: http://sew24.blogspot.com/p/downloads.html Or send me a PM with your email and I will send you what I have. Trox. You can use Google trans.if you do not understand German Trox

Hi Massive, I have used this machines for many years and never had the problems of the lifting of leather and markings on the top. But I use polished foot for the top feed and a feed dog ( bottom feed and top feed together) It will leave some markings on the back side, but reducing the tension and using a hammer on the back side at once the seam is done, will take care of that. (before the marking will fix) But of course a modern triple feed system is the best thing. I have ordered steel for welding up the stand for this and a Pfaff 345 machine. I will post pictures of it here when done. Trox

We do not have those Randall’s here in Europe, though I wish I had one. Ask Dan Naegle Campbell Randall leather machinery, he is a member here on leatherworker, CampbellRandall. He knows all that is to know about those machines, and I have parts for it and the Adler too. I forgot to post the link to the youtube video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJAshttLEZg&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL. It looks like a 105-25/sp75 or a 105-8025. I have the same feed as the 105-25Mo.

Hi Massive, A ½ inch was a bit cautious; I have one that will sew about 15 to 16 mm thick leather. It is a different subclass but the same machine. My 105 - 25MO has a foot lift max 19 mm. It is not only to change a foot. I am currently building up a 105-25 Mo for normal saddler use. I have changed the needle plate to a standard plate # 005 00 627 0 and fitted a feed dog # 005 00 596 0 ( this parts are found on the 105 subclasses 6,8 and 25,) You will also be able to use plates and feed dogs from the older class 5 machine ( the forerunner of the 105) Dürkopp Adler still have these parts, you can download the complete part list for all 105 subclasses on the blog “ The world of Dürkopp Adler parts” ( see my topic with the same name http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36185 ) How to down load the part list . I also made some small modifications on the stitch regulator locking plate (see picture) so I have reverse. The 105-25 will not only sew moccasin’s, it has top and bottom feed, which is adjusted separately. You must set the top feed to zero to use the reverse. (The 25Mo has no reverse without modifications; the reverse can only be used with the bottom feed. It is no reverse on the top feed). It is possible to use only one of the feed systems at the time; changing the needle plate and take off the feed dog, to use only the top feed. Just turn off the top feed and you will have a bottom feed machine with reverse, it can be used with a roller foot this way. It uses a standard foot, the same as Adler the other 105 subclasses, the Adler 205- 64, 204 - 64 and many Singer 45 K machines. I bought a new shuttle, servomotor and speed reducer for the machine on the picture. In addition, I am welding up a new modern one-leg stand for it. I will post pictures of it when it is finished. The machine on the video is a 105 it looks like a subclass -8025, ( same feed as the 25MO) study the complete part list for part you can use. Trox

The world of Dürkopp Adler parts and parts numbers, Info about the classes 105, 104, 5 and 4 　 Finding a the right spare part for an old Adler Industrial sewing machine can often be a big challenge. 　 　 If you buy an old Singer, you will most certainly find documentation and spare part lists on the web, for Adler machines this not that easy to find. Many have search all over the web for spare part lists for their old Adler without luck. And many had to pay for a partlist or manual just to discover it is for a different subclass or the wrong machine class. To find the part you need the right part number. Often the manufacturer has changed the Machines. Improvement and corrections of errors. The new replacement part/ amendment part numbers is written down, but the number on the replaced part is not. An example is the class 105 and 104 where the shuttle is changed two times. First for a bigger one, to fit that bigger shuttle they had to change many other parts to, like the shuttle driver. The shuttle change number two; was from an open frame type shuttle to a same size closed frame shuttle, with a different tension spring and adjustment screw. The number on the parts the machine originally came with is not written down in the part lists. This makes it very difficult to find the right shuttle for an old machine with the first type of shuttle. I addressed Dürkopp Adler with this problem on their new blog . I gave them some old shuttle numbers; they did some researching and finally gave me the right replacement numbers. Dürkopp Adler has promised to write down those old numbers of changes in the new edition of their partlists. The class 105 (and 104 flatbed) first came with a small open frame shuttle from its forerunner class 5; # 05 195 and the bobbin # 05 242 (the first letters in DA# is from the machine class ex.05 = class 5) the closed frame shuttle; # 005 00 290 4 with bobbin # 005 00 242 0 replaced this. This shuttle is still available in stock as # 0005 00 290 4 (small) and bobbin # 0005 00 242 0 The small shuttle in was later changed for the bigger # 065 00 185 4 bobbin # 020 00 201 0 This was replaced by the current big (industrial standard) shuttle; # 0204 15 010 4 (Big) and same bobbin # 020 00 201 0 (same as class 205 and 204) 　 　 　 To summarize this up; your class 5 and 4 machine will use the small shuttle. (And also a Singer 45K shuttle if you change the needle system, same size shuttle, minor different hook tip) Your 105 and 104 machine will use either the small or the big shuttle (depending on date of production or if it is been rebuild) Your 205 or 204 machine will use the big shuttle (that big shuttle will also fit the Juki 441 and others) 　 The first small shuttle #05 195 (class. 4/5 and early 104/105) has an open frame shuttle with a very small tension adjustment screw, that always will wear out too fast. This screw and tension spring is obsolete. The rest of the shuttle may be fine, but you have to buy the complete new shuttle to correct the problem. It may be possible to change for the new bobbin house # 005 00 292 4, it looks like a fit (se picture). The new blog Dürkopp Adler has started "The world of Dürkopp Adler spare part" Has a download section with many of the old big classes They have seen the need of spare parts and documentations for the old classes. The old machines was made to good, they simply will not die. Here you will find manuals, spare part lists and attachments for the old classes not covered on Dürkopp Adler's main site. Even obsolete parts can be ordered and made Thanks to Thomas Brinkhoff Head of Spare Parts Business DÜRKOPP ADLER AG Trox

Everybody says Original Adler parts are too expensive, I do not think so. I just bought a new complete shuttle for my Adler 105 from Dürkopp Adler Norway. The price was the same as for an aftermarket shuttle from Hirose on EBay. 189$ here in Norway (one of the most expensive country in the world) this was a part stamped Dürkopp Adler. And thanks to the new blog I found the right shuttle for my obsolete Adler class 5-27, Dürkopp Adler still have shuttles for the old class 5 and class 4. You just need the right part number and I have those numbers. I am about to start a new topic about DA spare parts and part numbers for the old classes 105, 104 , 5 and 4 with all subclasses. I will inform you about missing part numbers and changes on machines that I know of there. Trox

Hi Adler fans, Dürkopp Adler has started a blog where you will find manuals and sparepart lists for all 105 sub classes including 105-64. And a lot more stuff on old Adlers. "The world of Dürkopp Adler spare parts" http://sew24.blogspot.com/p/downloads.html Here is the good stuff free. Hi James, read up. Let the downloads finish, they are very slow. Trox

Hi Arvid, This is way too expensive for a Singer 7. It has to big sewing foots for your purpose, and you cannot get other sewing foot’s for it. The only one who have any foots for it must be Bob here, but he do not I believe. This is not a machine for thinner threads; it works best on thick webbing and nylon with heavy threads. It is a very strong machine, but much too heavy for your use on wallets and belts. The video on the Adler is uploading on youtube now, and mail is on it’s way. (Sorry for the delay) Trox (Tor i Oslo)

I use only transparent sewingmachine oil on my machines, if this dry in it will not stain your machine. Do not use CNC spray or such, it is to strong on the metal. Use only the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Trox