JRodz

I use Tormek sharpeners for cutlery, I have one set up with a standard stone and another set up with the Japanese stone. After sharpening on the stones they are polished on the leather honing wheel. It’s a great system and the knives are very sharp when done.

On iPad, I use a drawing app called “Concepts”. It offers guides, scaling, and measurements. Not just good for drawing project patterns but also good for marking up construction plans and designs.

I usually just line them, total thickness between 12-14 oz. If the belt will be used as duty/carry belt, I add a layer of nylon webbing for more stiffness with less twist or bow.

If you are on Facebook, there is a group that is called to Cobra sewing machines tips and tricks. Al Bane and Bruce Brand are the moderators and it is like having a direct line to support.

Wow! Those are beautiful.

Here is the flyer from that page with the basic info. maintenance-kit-flyer.pdf

PhillyJay, A good source of information with great reference materials is Ron Kerbes, you can get more info here http://industrialsewingrepair.com/maintenance-kit/. This money was well spent and has saved me a lot over the last 10 years by not having to call a mechanic. A side benefit is having the confidence that I can fix and maintain my machines myself. Ron is local to me and I use him on occasion, but his kit, the instruction book, and videos he includes have made me self sufficient. I have actually called him to hear, “you don’t need me just do x, y, z, refer back to reference a or video b, and if you still need me after that, I’ll come out or you can drop it off” He is very giving of his knowledge and experience. Note: other than being a customer and supporting local/small business, I don’t get any kind of incentive or benefit from my referrals.

I would do the following in this order: Change needle (maybe change size and/or point) Rethread machine Adjust tension for the additional thickness and resistance Check hook In my experience with my 155s and 156, fraying thread is usually a tension or material thickness/temper issue.

I have no experience With Techsew but I do have experience with a Cobra 4, Cobra Steve, and the Cobra team. It is a great machine with phenomenal customer service and support behind it. Steve has even helped me with my vintage Singers.

Rodzhobyz, I have bought all of my machines used except for my Cobra 4. The other machines I have are: Singer 111W156, 111G156, 111W155, 31-15, 29K62, a Juki DDL-555, a Tipmann Boss. All of these machines are still widely used and parts are readily available, therefore, I didn’t hesitate. When I bought my first machine I was on here reading and trying to learn as much as possible. I had no clue how the machines worked, what to call things, or anything else about machine sewing. All of the moderators and regulars on here are great and have a lot of wisdom to share. I also bought videos and training material from Ron Kerbes which gave me the confidence to maintain, tune, repair, and rebuild machines. Long story short, as long as parts for the used machines are available and you are confident that you can learn from the guys here and others via videos; buying used shouldn’t be a problem. Just be sure to look closely and avoid obvious train wrecks.

I have one and it is my go to for leather bags and wallets. Definitely worth it at that price, even if you will be buying a servo and factor in another $135. In So Cal, those don’t come up often and when they do, most are $350+ with clutch motors and $500+ with servo motors. Parts are cheap and readily available.

IMHO, looks like characteristics of that side of leather not something that you’ll be able to clean off. I have had that happen to me, so now I take a flashlight to leather when selecting.

Like Target and Fred, I use 100% raw filtered beeswax, 100% pure neatsfoot oil, and 100% pure carnauba wax but I add tea tree and lemon essential oils and a little glycerine into the mix for penetration, cleaning, anti-fungal/mold purposes. I use pharmaceutical grade products, some people even use my stuff on their skin with great result, but I just use it on leather. The recipe above does not darken leather much if at all but it gives it depth, moisture, and a good feel (not sticky or tacky) when polished. Experiment, you’ll come up with your own recipe.

Pro dye is available in California, just not for retail or consumers. Find a trade supplier or a shoe findings supplier. We have several in Los Angeles, I use Saderma.