Wizcrafts

Way back in the late 1980s, I had a job setting up a sewing operation that required applying edge binding to the items being sewn. I started out with an over-the-counter folder and some bias tape in 3 foot lengths from a store. The results were a disaster! I called my industrial sewing machines dealer and he recommended that I contact a guy who custom built folders and other sewing machine attachments.I got together with that fellow, showing him a sample of the material I was working with. He designed and built a double folder attachment that fitted onto or across the bed of the Juki LU-563 that I was going to use. The folder was made to double fold bias tape that was sold on huge rolls. It was 1.25 inches wide and I believe was polyester material. The roll sat on top of a platter that was mounted onto the right-rear end of the table. The platter rotated freely under adjustable spring tension. I set it to prevent the roll from free-wheeling when I sewed fast. This setup worked flawlessly. The edges were about 5/16 inch down from the top and were sewn a little over 1/16 inch above their bottom folded edge. The material being covered measured about 1/16 inch thick along the edges. It was an orange honeycomb material that I made into safety vests worn by road workers when they were on the job on highways and byways. I also 2" wide sewed yellow Reflexite strips across the front and back, plus sewed a patch on the back identifying who they worked for. This eventually morphed into reflective vests for transit works and Police officers. The bottom line here is that if you need to sew edge binding onto goods for sale, go the extra mile and have one made or modified to work with your preferred edge tape and sewing machine. A fully matched set of parts will work more reliably than miscellaneous parts from hither and thence, made by sum yung gui hung lo.

To use leather as edge binding, it should be as slippery as possible so it flows through the binder attachment. Glazed pigskin lining leather that Tandy Leather sells in the US and Canada comes to mind. It is very thin, usually under 2 ounces thickness, strong (I use it for wallet interiors and holster linings), and slippery on both sides. It would probably work well in a double-fold binder. Sometimes, getting leather to work in a folder attachment just doesn't work out as you hoped for. Here's a Plan B for you. I have a buddy nearby who makes high-end holsters, rifle slings, guitar straps and tooled belts. He manually installs thin lambskin edge binding on many of his projects by laying it flat on the outside, grain side against the outside edge of the project (grain to grain). He uses 1/4 inch wide double-sided leather tape to hold the lining to the project, along the very top. He bends and folds the lamb ski to follow the contours of the project, then sews it on just below the bottom of the double-sided basting tape. This ensures that the needle just misses the 1/4 inch sticky tape. After he has sewn the edge strip onto the project's from side, he applies another strip of tape to the visible bottom edge of the lining material, then pulls it up and over the top edge of the project. He pulls it tightly over the top and presses it down to the inside of the project. The edging on the back should hang below the stitch line done on the front side. The tape should hold it in place. Once he is satisfied with how the edging lays on both sides, he takes it back to his sewing machine and sew through the front side, just under the double-folded edge. This captures the longer piece that is folded over to the inside. He cuts the width of the edge leather so that is folds nicely and tightly on the front and hangs just far enough down on the back for the needle to capture it. A typical binding from him would have about 1/4 inch folded over on the front and 3/8 inch protruding on the back side. Sometimes, he uses precision scissors to trim the back side after it's sewn on. When the sewing is finished, the edges are double-folded on the outside and single folded on the back. The grain side is all the customer sees on either side. The above method may be unconventional, but his customers like it and haven't complained about it getting in the way, or coming apart. I believe that he uses about 2 ounce thickness lambskins as edge bindings. He doesn't need a binder at all. He uses his left toe presser foot on his Cobra Class 4 stitcher, with a #23 needle running either #138 or #207 bonded nylon thread. His machine has been modded with a narrow feed dog, with a smaller than stock hole, and matching throat plate to prevent soft leather from getting pushed down into the bottom feed parts. If you want to try using his system to apply lambskin edging, purchase quality skins that are as long as possible. Aim for about 1.5 minimum to 2 ounces maximum thickness. I buy the double-sided basting tape from Wawak.com. Other companies may carry a different brand that has a greater or lesser holding strength. Note, if you will be sewing through double-sided basting tape, use titanium coated needles with as large an eye as possible. Keep a small glass jar filled with Goof-Off nearby and use a small wool dauber to dip in into the liquid solvent. Rub the wet dauber over the needle every now and then to dissolve and remove any adhesive residue from the tape. Failure to clean the needle will result in the top thread sticking in the needle's rib and eye, leading to skipped stitches and ratted top thread.

@toxo I went through a big fight with binder attachments before I got the one that worked for our applications. It was custom built for the job and the edge binding we picked. The results was a perfectly placed double-folded edge bind on both sides. If you can't find someone to build you a binder, choose the width based on the material you will be running through it. Decide if you want a single or double folded edge. Most binding material is either cloth or synthetic bias tape. If you want to use vinyl, consult Sailrite company in the USA. They make portable and industrial sewing machines for the boat trade and offer bias tapes and folders that work properly. They can probably set you up with attachments, platters and tapes that work.

Evidently, that particular machine appears to be industrial. That is unusual for the Viking brand. The only manual I found is linked to in my earlier comments. There is a fee to be paid to download the manual. I haven't found any other info about that machine. The original question was asking if it can sew leather. From the picture posted, it is a flat fixed foot bottom feed machine which is typical for garment sewing machines. I would be surprised if it can hold down any leather denser than soft chap or garment leather. The tensioner looks like it is only strong enough to handle thinner threads that are typically used in garment sewing. However, most of those machines can tension up to #69 (T70) bonded thread, with a #18 (110) needle. This would at least allow you to sew leather garments with it. Your main problem will be climbing up onto higher layers and thick seams. You'll have to lift the foot with the knee lifter, if that's what's coming out of the bottom. A photo taken from the top and left or right will help figure out its drive system and probably capabilities. But, experimentation goes a long way.

A #23 needle is the right size for #138 thread on the top and bottom. Look closely at the leather under the needle to see if it is lifting with the needle as it ascends. This almost always causes skipped stitches. If it is lifting, add more foot pressure. Inserting the needle backwards has the same effect. Make sure the rib side is on the left and the scarf side faces due-right. If the check spring is set wrong for the work, it can cause skipped stitches. The bottom stopper should halt the downward motion of the check spring as or just after the tip of the needle enters the top of the work. The longest it should allow downward motion would be as the eye shows just under the bottom layer. The other settings are spring tension and slack adjustment, via a set screw inside a curved slot. Try changing the position of that screw.

Make sure you hold back the starting threads, or at least the top thread, for about three stitches. Ensure that the needle isn't too small. Move up a size or two to see if that helps bring the top thread up into the leather. Choose the correct size needle for the thread combination. Do standard troubleshooting stuff. Start by checking the hook to needle timing. Adjust the hook or needle bar height if it has been thrown out by the impact of sewing rubber. Remove the throat plate and clean off any residue on the bottom of it. Also, check the feed dog and clean it if necessary. Re-time the machine. Change the needle to a leather point needle. Make sure you've threaded it correctly and that the top thread stays inside the tension disks and doesn't lift up as you sew. Center the check spring if it was turned to one end or the other end. Finally, make sure that there is a modicum of tension on the bobbin thread; not too much or too little.

You didn't offend anybody I know. I often learn about people being dead after I wish them happy birthday on the book of faces!

I own a Cowboy cb4500, which is a Juki 441 clone. It easily sews over 24mm thick stacks of whatever you have under the feet. It is a heavy duty sewing machine with two feet: inside alternating and outside presser feet. I would not refer to them as meant for delicate materials! The bottom appearance will vary with the presence or absence of the feed dog and its size. The stock feed dog is very wide and has a large oval hole in it. Soft stuff will be pushed down into that hole and may look dab compared to the top layer. To get around this problem, a couple of enterprising people have come up with narrower feed dogs that have smaller needle holes. I use one of these all the time. One maker is in Australia and the other is in the USA. They sell the narrow feed dog with a matching throat plate that is just wide enough to let the feed dog move freely. If you buy a 441 clone, then add the aftermarket narrow feed dog and throat plate, you will still be able to sew with #277 bonded thread, using a #200 (25) needle. The geometry of the needle matters too. you could experiment with different leather point shapes, and even a round point. Or, you might find somebody who owns such a machine in Hungary and send them some sample stacks of leather and foam to sew for you. Ask them to sew a separate line of thread with different needle point shapes. If they lack a particular shape that is available, maybe buy them a pack of 10 of those needles. The main needle shapes I've used in my 441 clone are Schmetz "S" point (inline wedge), tri-point (3 sided), diamond point (4-sided), and round point. I believe that some companies make traditional tilted wedge points, called LL or LR. They produce slanted stitches. I just don't have any of those.

I refurbished one of those Model 127s in 2019 and I got it to sew with #92 bonded nylon thread using a #19 or 20 leather point needle, into a 10-12 ounce piece of bridle leather, at 5 to the inch! I sold the machine for $200 to the first person who asked about it. Here is a YouTube video showing the author cleaning her Singer Model 99. The details should be the same for your machine, except for the different shuttle type.

For now, oil everything that moves and keep a rag onder the foot until sewing time. Twist every adjuster to get them past any high spots. You can even back off the pressure spring to make it easier to turm the balance wheel to break it in. Also, if there's a foot rotation lockscrew on the front of the head housing, back it off until it's needed. Oh, if the bobbin winder wheel is engaged, disengage it by rotating the eccentric screw on its housing. That adds some stiffness to the mechanism when it's on.

A well oiled older industrial sewing machine is a lot like an old Harley. They also mark their spot!

Labeling a leather point of any shape with a garment point designation is misleading. Leather cutting points tend to slice the fibers in cloth, webbing and serged patch borders. However, if any leather point has a snowball's chance in Hell of sewing cloth without destroying it, it is a diamond point needle. The shape is closer to round than the usual sideways slicing edge we have in leather points. I haven't tried sewing patches on with a diamond point, and don't recommend it without testing it first on a disposable patch with the same type of edging. I do use diamond/tri point needles on occasions when I want to sew close stitches that lay on top of leather projects, from end to end, versus S points that give a submerged appearance on the ends.

Darren, Greg died in March of 2021. Here is the notice.

Hey, Dwight! I'm your Huckleberry! I've been sewing patches for bikers for a decade now. I use a patcher, a flat bed and a post machine depending on how the sewing needs to be done. Here's the breakdown. If the patch is on the back, or upper fronts, and there is no pocket or zip open liner behind it, I use a long bed flat bed Singer 139. It doesn't have reverse, but I sew all the way around the patches. No reverse is needed as the starting stitches are covered by at least 6 to 8 going over them. If the vest (cut) or jacket has a pocket to deal with, I use my Adler 30-7 long arm, big bobbin, high lift patcher. It easily gets into pockets and zip open linings. If the sewing is around the vicinity of the arm holes, I tend to use a post machine. It's much easier to turn the vest around the post with the excess hanging down that to fight with a flat bed or patcher. An example of when I use the post machine is when I'm sewing flags or club names, or office positions onto the upper shoulder, in the narrow area between the front and back seams. I use double-sided leather tape from Wawak to hold the patches in place for sewing. If the back is extra flimsy, or is made of denim, I also use a long body office stapler to keep the patch and material lined up. Next, I prefer to use #69 bonded thread with a #18 needle, unless it is on a jacket or padded vest. Then I'll use #92 with a #19 needle. As for the needles, I have learned to use round point needles when sewing any patch that has a serged or embroidered edge. This is because a leather point needle will slice the closely sewn edge thread whereas the round point just goes between them. The leather under the patch doesn't care about the needle. It is garment leather. If your machine takes a needle system that is available in titanium coated needles, buy those whenever possible. This really comes in handy if you are sewing through double-sided tape. I also keep a little can of Goof Off and a dauber near my machines so I can clear any glue or tape residue off the needle. If your patcher has a lube pot, fill it with clear liquid silicon to keep the top thread from sticking to the eye of the needle. While at Wawak, buy some steel thread snips. Put magnets on the body of your machines and let them hold the snips and threaders, bobbins, etc. Wind extra bobbins in advance so you don't have a lot of downtime when you run out of bobbin thread. Prewounds go a long way if they are available for your machine(s). That's all I've got to say about tha-at!

See the update I wrote in my earlier comments, up the page.

I think they can go 10,000 miles, er stitches between oil changes! ;-)

Full STOP! The needle you listed is a "System" 190 profile, and a number (width of the business end) 22. The System 190 is an extra long needle. It is only recommended for higher than standard lift, mainly on walking foot machines. The reason is that the higher capacity of the foot or feet to lift and function properly would be too high for a shorter needle to clear the top of the lifted foot or feet. A standard walking foot machine might be able to sew up to 3/8 inch of compressible material. If you stuff 1/2 inch under the feet and hack them to lift higher up, the bottom of the needle bar will make hard contact with the raised inner or outer foot and something will give or break. So, some machines are already setup to sew thicker than standard and have their needle bar raised up high enough to clear the feet in their highest working position. Many are made to use the longer System 190 needle in the needle bar. Since the distance is longer from top to the eye, these needles can still go down far enough for a loop to form at the eye of the needle and the hook to pick it off. Note, that these longer needles are more fragile in smaller sizes (diameters) and are more likely to get deflected and break that a shorter needle of the same "size." Get the manual for that machine and compare the full model number to whatever is shown in the manual for the factory needle system. The 22 part relates to a business end outside diameter of 0.718 mm. Due to the rib channel one one side and the cutout around the eye side, the actual diameter changes. No matter its geometry, a #22 needle is the minimum size required to sew with #138 (Tex 135) bonded thread on the top and bottom when you sew into soft to medium temper materials, and soft chap or garment leather. The thread itself has an outside diameter of about .414 mm. When you sew on a standard lockstitch machine, the top thread captures the bobbin thread and folds around it as it draws it up into the material. We refer to this lock configuration as a "knot." The knot is about twice the diameter of the individual top and bottom threads. Veg-tan leather is less pliable than chrome-tan chap and garment leather and its extra density means that you'll probably need a needle one number larger for the same thread sizes. Thus, to get the "knots" pulled well into the leather, you'll need a #23 needle with #138 bonded thread. One parameter that hasn't been mentioned is the top mounting diameter of the part that goes up into the needle bar hole. It must be a good fit; not too loose and definitely not wider than the hole. You should be able to insert and remove a needle with finger pressure alone. It should not wobble when all the way up and tightened down with the needle bar set screw. Many modern era walking foot machines take a 2 mm diameter top needle shank. Some ancient machines only took 1.5 or some random number smaller than 2.0 mm.

Check to make sure that the top thread is staying all the way inside the tension disks. Add some more top tension. Verify that the check disk is properly threaded and that the spring tension is good, the bottom stopper holds the thread taut until the needle pierces the leather, and that the little set screw is either in the center, or to the left in the curved slot. Finally, change needles. UPDATE One way to ensure that the top thread has a fighting chance of staying seated inside the top tension disks is to twist it around a top post counterclockwise, feeding it through a top and bottom hole in the post. You can turn the post with pliers to get a good angle coming out of the bottom disk. This provides back pressure before the disks and helps keep the thread seated down in them. It also tends to counteract twisty thread that may act like a coil spring coming off the spool.

When you do make the jump into sewing machines, if you have any technical or operational questions, head over to our Leather Sewing Machines section of the forums. When you do get to try using his Juki, hold back the starting threads so that the top thread doesn't get pulled into the shuttle and jams the machine. Holding at least to top thread, back and to one side, keeps it from getting drawn down unexpectedly. You can let go after either backtacking, or sewing all the way around and overlapping the first 5 to 10 stitches. Your master should teach you that, but it becomes a subconscious operation that one might fail to pass along.

@Sblof Your Nakajima 280L machine has been discussed on these forums, before. Here, here and here. It is a compound feed walking foot machine. It uses the common System 135x16 and 135x17 needles. It takes all manner of Singer 111 style feet. Most are smooth. It was a forerunner of the current Juki 1541.

Some Puritan machines have been in service for a century, or longer. Parts wear out over decades of use. Finding replacement parts may be difficult. I believe that Redwing repairs their Puritan machines on-site and probably manufacturers all needed replacement parts, or out-sources them to local machine shops. Here are some references and videos of Puritan Machines in action. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMWAPPEucMI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOVaDCN-BEI Here's one (currently) for sale on eBay, in Pennsylvania.

Redwing boots are sewn on Puritan chainstitch machines. Some have 4 or more needles to sew parallel lines at critical seams on the boots. I guess it wouldn't hurt to contact them and ask if they have any Puritans they want to sell off.

I try to keep my minimum sewing speed to about 1 stitch per second, except on intricate turns and patches. I slow down to get the best needle placement, then speed up on straight-aways.

Despite all of the improvements made in electronic motors over the last almost 20 years, I can still feather a clutch motor so it barely turns over the machine, and hold it at a slow and steady speed. Yes, they are noisy and generate a bit of heat. But, they are like the Ever Ready Bunny: they just keep on going! If anybody reads this and is having trouble controlling a clutch motor, try backing off the big screw on the clutch housing. This adds a certain amount of slack movement before the disks engage. You can also tighten the coil spring that holds back the clutch lever. That keeps the lever up and away from engaging accidentally. Finally, you can smear a little grease on the internal cork disk that mashes into the main disks. The final adjustment is to replace a large motor pulley with a 2 inch pulley, or to add a 2:1 speed reducer.

I didn't find that. I sewed with the optically modified motor on my cb4500 and a couple of walking foot machines. They worked very well. The Cowboy had a 3:1 reducer. My long arm Singer machine fed directly from the motor's 45mm pulley. They had no hesitance to start turning over.