Wizcrafts

Way back when I was only sewing for about 2 or 3 years, I bought two post bed machines with roller feet off some shoe maker who was going out of business. I used them to sew Marlon Brando style biker caps. I even sewed a Cowboy hat or two, and sewed patches onto ball caps. One day, I counted all of my sewing machines and discovered that I owned 13; a Bakers' Dozen! They included everything from a flat bed tailoring machine to a huge Union Lockstitch machine. That truly was a rabbit hole. Then, I moved and sold all but two machines. I eventually sold the big ULS and went into computer troubleshooting. I finally escaped from the sewing machine rabbit hole! Then, one day, as the computer troubleshooting was winding itself down, I saw a National walking foot machine for sale, cheap, nearby, and bought it. Y'all can guess what happened next... More rabbit pellets.

There is a specialized industrial sewing machine that is perfect for sewing all kinds of hats. It is known as a post, or post bed machine. Some have a flat foot with bottom feed. Some have a roller foot and bottom feed. I have one that is a triple feed walking foot mechanism. A post machine lets the work hang down on all four sides. My Singer 168G101 has a 7 inch tall post. I have used #138 thread in it, although it is happier with #69 and #92. This machine uses the same bobbins as the Singer 111 series machines.

The largest needle commonly available for domestic sewing machines is a #18/110. I once found some #20 needles for an old iron body Singer from yesteryear. Those machines held up much better than the plastic body machines of today. I mentioned this because most so-called Upholstery thread is #69 bonded nylon. This size is normally sewn using a #18 (Metric 110) needle. Leather point needles work best on leather, as opposed to round points. You should be able to get a decent stitch using #69 thread with a #18 needle by balancing the bobbin vs top tension and enough foot pressure to keep the leather from lifting with the ascending needle. But, if you plan to sew leather on a regular basis, buy an iron body walking foot machine that's mounted on a 20 x 48 inch industrial k-legs frame and table and powered by a 3/4 HP servo motor.

The only purpose of a roller foot is to reduce the drag on the top layer of a stack of material that's being pulled on the bottom by feed dogs with teeth. If the material is grabby, a flat presser foot will fight against the feeding and cause uneven stitches. They are often used on machines that are going to sew patterns on shoes and boots, or on machines that sew hats. The roller is adjustable to the left and right. The usual practice is to position the bottom inside edge so it just clears the needle on the up and down stroke. This closeness ensures that the material doesn't lift with the ascending, threaded needle, which would cause skipped stitches. A roller foot gives 100% visibility of the needle in three dimensions. As KGG already mentioned, they are not used on walking foot machines, which have not two, but three bars extending down. They are meant for bottom feed machines that only have one presser foot bar. Walking foot machines already solve the problem of drag with their motion sequence.

These heavy duty harness stitchers usually ship with high thread tension and foot pressure because they are typically used to sew hard, dense leather. You will need to dumb down your machine to sew soft leather. Start by backing off the bobbin tension screw until there is just a slight amount of pull required. Next, back off the top tension to balance the knots. Next, back off the top foot pressure screw on top of the right end of the head. Use just enough force to keep the leather from lifting with the threaded needle and the bobbin thread locked around the needle. This setup won't work as well in dense leather, so try to make a mental note about the initial setup tensions and pressures. Finally, adjust the stitch length a little shorter to minimize the warping of the material.

Coincidentally, I had a customer come to my shop yesterday with a dozen webbing straps that I had to sew together in pairs, at the loose ends, with a 3" overlap. I chose #138 yellow bonded polyester thread and used a #23 round point needle. I had to retime/advance the hook to avoid skipped stitches in reverse, and adjust the check spring throw, in addition to increasing the bobbin and decreasing the top tension. All of the tension changes will have to be undone when I have to sew a holster or sheath.

I used to sew Biothane and heavy webbing in a previous location. I found that I had to move up one needle size, and use a diamond or round point needle. Additionally, I had to double the foot pressure to keep it from lifting with the ascending needle. Running the top thread thru liquid silicon will help the knots move up with less friction. It might help if you adjust your check spring to give more slack top thread as it goes around the hook. Try it on a test strip. Thread color also plays a part in all heavy sewing jobs. Black thread is often double-dipped to get total color penetration. This process stiffens the thread more than lighter colors. You can usually feel the difference when you handle the thread to feed it through the guides on thread stand. Straw color is usually much softer than black. That translates into tighter knots being formed. Tighter knots are easier to pull up in dense materials, like Biothane and thick webbing.

What machine make and model are you currently using? What size needle and thread?

@speedybri This sounds like a case of the leather is too dry and dense. Is it the awl or the needle that is getting stuck and lifting the stack of leather? If it's the awl, you may need to oil the leather to soften it a little. Or, run the thread through liquid stitching wax or silicon in the wax pot. If it's the needle, either move down one needle size or move up one awl size. And, add more foot pressure until you figure out the real problem.

I copped a boo at one of my speed reducers that bolts to the table in a box above the motor. It looks like it has a bronze case bearing, but, I'm not sure about that. I bought it about 10 years ago and it may be outdated. I have different reducers on machines in my shop. I will look at them later today and try to remember to report back here. Nonetheless, Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, sells the most current accessories. So, the newer speed reducers might have roller bearings in all models. Ask him.

Many years ago, I had a Union Lockstitch machine that was made to sew horse tack. The ULS is a needle and awl machine. The needles are barbed like hand sewing needles are. I explored all of the available thread options, then bought needles and awls that would punch the proper size holes for that size of linen thread. In my searches, I found that the thickest linen thread sold in the USA at that point in time was Barbour's Irish Linen in 8 cords. This is equivalent to .828 mm diameter. It called for a gigantic needle, size 30, which nobody had in stock. The largest needle I could get was a #250. It was able to hook and sew with 6 cord linen thread. I later discovered that these thicker sizes of thread were meant for the shoe repair trade, not saddlers. Some shoe sole sewing machines were apparently capable of handling up to 10 cord linen thread, which is about 1 mm diameter. They are specialized machines that can weigh 500 pounds or more. I would recommend that the OP searches for an old time shoe repair shop that uses old sole stitchers and see if they can sew his or her projects for a nominal fee.

@MelissaViarengo Looking at the pictures of your machine, it looks like the teeth have been filed almost entirely flat on the bottom of the foot. The entire feed is done by the teeth digging into the material. If those teeth are blunt, or missing, the foot cannot pull the material back to form stitch length. The teeth on the foot should be sharp to the touch. You can find replacement 29k presser feet on ebay in Italy. While you await your replacement presser foot, try adding some thin rubber or clear carburetor tubing to the feet. 1/8 inch inside diameter should fit on the legs. This may have enough grip to pull the work to form stitches. Add more spring pressure too.

I have an old Singer 139w109 that has a 20 inch flat bed from the needle to the body, plus it has a compound feed walking foot mechanism. It was converted to take Juki U size bobbins. The wheel is on the back, but that isn't a problem. It is easily reached. This type of machine is based on the ubiquitous Singer 111 series machines. It can sew 3/8 inch of material with up to #138 bonded thread. I mostly use it to sew embroidered patches onto biker's vests. That's where the 20 inches of bed space comes in handy.

You'll need to get a proper walking foot machine, then get #18 leatherpoint needles in the "system" that machine uses. For instance, my Singer 111 and 211 machines take system 135x16 leather point, and 135x17 round point needles. I tend to hunt for titanium coated needles because I sew through leather tape or glue on a lot of jobs. Titanium coating helps prevent clogging of the eye of the needle. I also keep Goof Off and a dauber close by to clean the crap off the needles when they do get full of tape residue!

Welcome to Leatherworker.net As you have discovered, the machine you have is inadequate for the work you have on hand. My article that was linked to earlier today should help you understand the type of machine that actually sews leather. Within this basic deinition there are various levels of capacity in the various makes and models available. At the very least, you should look for a compound/triple feed walking foot machine. Early examples are the Singer 111w155 and 156 (has reverse), the older Juki LU-563 and newer models, like the Juki DNU-1541, and some Consew models that have triple feed, like the Consew 206RB-5. These machines can handle up to #138 bonded nylon thread and actually tension it enough to sew over 5/16 inch of leather, depending on its density. They weigh over 70 pounds and need to be fitted onto industrial sewing machine tables that have steel legs. Most tables are 20" x 48". They are usually equipped with powerful clutch or servo motors that drive the heavy steel mechanism through stacks of leather that would destroy a home hobbiest's machine.

As previously mentioned, it is not a walking foot machine. Some of the best known Singer walking foot machines are the slower speed 111w155 and 156 (w/ large balance wheel pulley), as well as the higher speed 211w155 and 156 (w/ small pulley). There are also some older Singer walking foot machines that have whaat's known as a spring foot. These have a foot that simply follows the material as the feed dog pulls it back. They only had bottom feed. A proper walking foot machine has at least dual, if not triple feed.

@MelissaViarengo You have the stitch length adjuster way up high on the foot driving bars. That position gives the shortest stitches. Lower the adjuster by loosening the round thumbscrew. You can set it for its maximum stitch length by raising the foot lift lever and lowering the adjuster, aka regulator all the way until it just touches the top of the raised foot. After lowering the stitch regulator, tighten the lock screw to keep it there. You should be able to get almost 5 stitches per inch in about 5 ounces of shoe upper leather. Anything less indicates excessive wear in the foot driving cam that rides inside the big round ring on the bottom of the head. There is a stud shape sticking out of that cam that rides inside the round ring. When the ring moves down, it pushes on the dtud and that causes the foot to get pushed back to pull the material.

That machine looks very similar to the Consew P-1206RB. It could be the forerunner of the 1206. Maybe the specs on the page will apply to your machine.

I would lower the stitch length gib until it just hits the top of the foot when it is in the manually raised resting position. This is the highest position the foot can reach and the longest stitch length setting possible for this type of machine. With the foot lifted by the lift lever, push and pull on it to see how much slop is in the mechanism. If it has noticeable slack motion, that translates into lost stitch length. The thicker the material, the greater the loss of stitch length no matter how tight or loose the foot drive parts happen to be. Remove the needle for this item! With the foot lifted, rotate the balance wheel towards you from the top. Verify that the foot moves forward then backward. Hold the front of the foot by the legs and see if it still pulls backward under a slight resistance of your hand on it. If it fails to pull back, the feed motion cam is worn beyond viability and must be replaced or rebuilt by someone with welding or soldering skills. Otherwise, move on to the next item. Lower the foot lift lever and check to see if the bottom of the foot is in contact with the throat plate. It must be in contact if it is to sew thin materials. The movable slider on the back takes care of how high the foot lifts as it moves forward to pull the material. If it doesn't go all the way down, something is interfering with its up-down motion. It could have to do with the next item. Make sure you have a decent amount of spring pressure on the foot! Tighten the thumbscrew on the middle of the big spring along the back to add more pressure, and vice-versa. Make sure there are sharp teeth on the foot. Dull feet won't feed most materials, or slick leather. You can hammer or rub out the tooth marks later on. So, make sure that the lowered foot goes all the ways down, then lifts up to the height set by the lifter on the back. Verify that the foot feed motion cam is moving the foot backward as the machine turns over. Know that parts specific to this model (-4) are obsolete. Most people have to find donor machines to strip parts from, or have parts repaired or modified. Pray that the little gears inside the arm are still good!

Please look at the package that the needle came from and let us know the designation on the needle. For instance, a System 794 or 7x4 in Schmetz S Point, or a 4-sided Diamond, or 3-sided Tri point, or an LR or LL twisted wedge point. The first 3 give a straight stitch line, but with a different visual front to back length on top. The last two are made with a left or right twist on the tip of the needle. While the needles can lay the thread differently based on their geometry, the only ones that might try to push the leather sideways are the LL and LR slanted wedges. Personally, I avoid slanted needles. My preferred needles either have a diamond or tri point, or an S point, which is an inline slicing wedge. If you sew a stitch line with each of these two types, using the same stitch length and tensions, The S point stitches will appear closer together and submerged, compared to the diamond shape needles. Then, there's always System 7x3 round point needles that poke a round hole and are made to sew fabric and synthetics, and create a straight stitch line with good visual appearance between the ends of the stitches. Now that the needle geometry has been discussed, there is something mechanical that could cause the strip to move sideways as your sew. That is a misaligned or loose needle bar and inside foot mounting frame. Normally, this frame is installed with a minimum of sideways clearance to keep it sewing straight. If some impact knocks the frame alignment out, it may sew off the center line. Look to see if your machine has an L shaped bracket screwed on at the bottom of the moving frame that contains the needle and inside foot bars. If present, make sure it hasn't loosened or moved to the left and giving too much clearance to the moving frame, which might be called the "rock frame," or such.

You will be stressing out the 563, which was built in the 1980s. It wasn't made to sew veg-tan. I had one around 1988 through 90 and found that it struggled to sew pancake holsters made of two pieces of 8 ounce veg-tan leather. If your projects will be in this thickness range, you're better off with a 441 clone, like a Cowboy cb4500. I have one and it will sew anything I shove under the feet, using the heaviest thread sizes, like 277, 346, or 415. It will also sew 10 ounce belts and straps, all day long, using #138 or 207 bonded thread. The bobbins are huge and cylindrical and hold enough #138 or #207 thread to sew several days worth of belts. The Cowboy can also handle Nomex thread. All of the take-up and tensioning parts are extra beefy and made of hard and polished steel. Nomex lists for about $200/pound. But, I've been able to find it on eBay for much more affordable prices.

Many of us, including me, use this type of "brushed" servo motor: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html. Unlike the one you linked to and own, which starts at 200 rpm, this motor starts turning over smoothly from zero rpm when you move the foot pedal down. There is no jerky start, nor any complicated electronics panels to replace. The only parts that experience wear are the two carbon brushes, two of which which come extra with the motor. I've yet to go through the original brushes in a motor I installed around 2014.

Way back in the late 1980s, I had a job setting up a sewing operation that required applying edge binding to the items being sewn. I started out with an over-the-counter folder and some bias tape in 3 foot lengths from a store. The results were a disaster! I called my industrial sewing machines dealer and he recommended that I contact a guy who custom built folders and other sewing machine attachments.I got together with that fellow, showing him a sample of the material I was working with. He designed and built a double folder attachment that fitted onto or across the bed of the Juki LU-563 that I was going to use. The folder was made to double fold bias tape that was sold on huge rolls. It was 1.25 inches wide and I believe was polyester material. The roll sat on top of a platter that was mounted onto the right-rear end of the table. The platter rotated freely under adjustable spring tension. I set it to prevent the roll from free-wheeling when I sewed fast. This setup worked flawlessly. The edges were about 5/16 inch down from the top and were sewn a little over 1/16 inch above their bottom folded edge. The material being covered measured about 1/16 inch thick along the edges. It was an orange honeycomb material that I made into safety vests worn by road workers when they were on the job on highways and byways. I also 2" wide sewed yellow Reflexite strips across the front and back, plus sewed a patch on the back identifying who they worked for. This eventually morphed into reflective vests for transit works and Police officers. The bottom line here is that if you need to sew edge binding onto goods for sale, go the extra mile and have one made or modified to work with your preferred edge tape and sewing machine. A fully matched set of parts will work more reliably than miscellaneous parts from hither and thence, made by sum yung gui hung lo.

To use leather as edge binding, it should be as slippery as possible so it flows through the binder attachment. Glazed pigskin lining leather that Tandy Leather sells in the US and Canada comes to mind. It is very thin, usually under 2 ounces thickness, strong (I use it for wallet interiors and holster linings), and slippery on both sides. It would probably work well in a double-fold binder. Sometimes, getting leather to work in a folder attachment just doesn't work out as you hoped for. Here's a Plan B for you. I have a buddy nearby who makes high-end holsters, rifle slings, guitar straps and tooled belts. He manually installs thin lambskin edge binding on many of his projects by laying it flat on the outside, grain side against the outside edge of the project (grain to grain). He uses 1/4 inch wide double-sided leather tape to hold the lining to the project, along the very top. He bends and folds the lamb ski to follow the contours of the project, then sews it on just below the bottom of the double-sided basting tape. This ensures that the needle just misses the 1/4 inch sticky tape. After he has sewn the edge strip onto the project's from side, he applies another strip of tape to the visible bottom edge of the lining material, then pulls it up and over the top edge of the project. He pulls it tightly over the top and presses it down to the inside of the project. The edging on the back should hang below the stitch line done on the front side. The tape should hold it in place. Once he is satisfied with how the edging lays on both sides, he takes it back to his sewing machine and sew through the front side, just under the double-folded edge. This captures the longer piece that is folded over to the inside. He cuts the width of the edge leather so that is folds nicely and tightly on the front and hangs just far enough down on the back for the needle to capture it. A typical binding from him would have about 1/4 inch folded over on the front and 3/8 inch protruding on the back side. Sometimes, he uses precision scissors to trim the back side after it's sewn on. When the sewing is finished, the edges are double-folded on the outside and single folded on the back. The grain side is all the customer sees on either side. The above method may be unconventional, but his customers like it and haven't complained about it getting in the way, or coming apart. I believe that he uses about 2 ounce thickness lambskins as edge bindings. He doesn't need a binder at all. He uses his left toe presser foot on his Cobra Class 4 stitcher, with a #23 needle running either #138 or #207 bonded nylon thread. His machine has been modded with a narrow feed dog, with a smaller than stock hole, and matching throat plate to prevent soft leather from getting pushed down into the bottom feed parts. If you want to try using his system to apply lambskin edging, purchase quality skins that are as long as possible. Aim for about 1.5 minimum to 2 ounces maximum thickness. I buy the double-sided basting tape from Wawak.com. Other companies may carry a different brand that has a greater or lesser holding strength. Note, if you will be sewing through double-sided basting tape, use titanium coated needles with as large an eye as possible. Keep a small glass jar filled with Goof-Off nearby and use a small wool dauber to dip in into the liquid solvent. Rub the wet dauber over the needle every now and then to dissolve and remove any adhesive residue from the tape. Failure to clean the needle will result in the top thread sticking in the needle's rib and eye, leading to skipped stitches and ratted top thread.

@toxo I went through a big fight with binder attachments before I got the one that worked for our applications. It was custom built for the job and the edge binding we picked. The results was a perfectly placed double-folded edge bind on both sides. If you can't find someone to build you a binder, choose the width based on the material you will be running through it. Decide if you want a single or double folded edge. Most binding material is either cloth or synthetic bias tape. If you want to use vinyl, consult Sailrite company in the USA. They make portable and industrial sewing machines for the boat trade and offer bias tapes and folders that work properly. They can probably set you up with attachments, platters and tapes that work.