Wizcrafts

180 kph = ~ 112 mph

I think t I think that the Dingo ate your baby!

Floyd; If you call Steve at Leather Machine Company, I suspect that he will send you a replacement bobbin tension spring. It's definitely worth a try.

I'm outta here

My 2 cents is as follows... If you are new to sewing leather/canvas/vinyl/webbing and are looking for an explanation about why one machine is better suited to sewing your projects than another, look at it from a strength point of view. If the projects can be sewn with fairly thin thread, like say bonded 69 (T70), which only requires a #18 (aka 110) needle, and the thickness will not exceed about 1/4 inch and is basically one level on top, and the work is not very tough to penetrate, almost any industrial sewing machine will do. It could have a flat foot, or a roller foot and be bottom feed only. As long as the material can be held down as you sew, there won't be skipped stitches and ratted thread. You don't start running into trouble until the material becomes very hard to feed, or penetrate, or has big differences in height from layers or seams, or exceeds the safe vertical working range of the needle and foot/feet. That is where an upholstery grade walking foot machine becomes a necessity. These machines typically are built with beefier take-up parts, larger shafts and better bearings. This allows the machine to penetrate dense materials without bending the steel parts. The tensions and foot pressure springs are also stronger than the ones used in garment quality machines. A benefit of using a walking foot machine is that it is usually designed to handle #138 thread and #23 needles. Most of them can sew between 5/16 and 3/8 inch of material, with a chosen few able to make it to 7/16". Walking foot machines also use longer needles than garment machines. As was already mentioned, flat work is best sewn on a flat bed machine that sits in a cutout in a table you can sit in front of. The standard table is 20" x 48". An average industrial sewing machine is about 19" long x 7" wide at the bed. There is usually about 6 or 7 inches on the right end, leaving you about 22" - 23" of flat table to the left of the needle. If there are any shapes below the top surface, or vertical curves, or if the object being sewn is cylindrical, a cylinder arm machine is a must have. Arm holes are best sewn on such a machine. Shaped cases or items with snaps, belt loops or clips, or any hardware on the bottom need some free space under the left edge to clear the throat plate and sew inline as desired. Cylinder arm machines can have any type of feed mechanism. But, if you are sewing leather or vinyl, which tend to be harder to feed than cloth, get a walking foot machine. For our purposes as leather workers, the walking foot machines we prefer are triple, or compound feed, with smooth, interchangeable presser feet. The dual (top and bottom) feed machines used by sail makers are not the right machines for leather sewing as they will mark the top and bottom with their aggressive teeth. IHTH

I see that "Tote" has started another new topic about these same machines, so I am merging them together to avoid cross-posting answers.

The 67-373 is indeed a walking foot machine, with a flat bed. It may use a longer needle than your model 69: System 134-35, if it was setup that way. This machine will handle #138 thread, top and bottom. However, it has a standard size bobbin. Here is a video I found of someone test sewing an Adler 67...

This machine uses a different needle system than its walking foot cousins. You need to buy system 135x7 (regular point) or 135x8 (leather point) needles. They are similar to system 134 in length and are noticeably shorter than walking foot needles used in the 111w153 and 155. Thus, they have a shorter stroke, limiting the thickness that can be sewn.

Leather Machines Company (Cobra) sells an inside foot with a slot that fits all 441 clones. Use one of their banner ads on top of our pages to go to their website and search for presser feet.

Um, are you aware that Weaver Leather currently has paid banner ads that appear in the rotation on top of every page on these forums? They are indeed a paying advertiser who supports us financially. Refresh the page and watch the banners reload and you will see Weaver's banners. On the other hand, Neel's is not a financial supporter of our site.

Yes we do take donations! There is a section on the home page labeled Support this forum (in the right sidebar). It offers three levels of donation amounts and defaults to PayPal. As for your clutch motor, you can back off the big bolt on the right/front side of the casing. It positions the brake pad vs the clutch. Giving it more slack makes it easier to learn to feather the clutch. There is also a spring adjustment on the control arm that can be played with. It can be set to just barely pull the lever up, or pull it up hard. Make sure you don't tighten it so much that the clutch won't fully engage. You might want to start a new topic that deals with controlling clutch motors, as this topic was about timing machines.

Bradford; The Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4 and Techsew 5100 are all known as 441 Clones. The 441 refers to the progenitor, which is the Juki TSC-441. A new Juki 441 will set you back approximately $5500, base price, plus optional accessories. A 441 clone is half that amount, often with all the accessories. These three brands are sold, serviced and actively supported by advertisers who financially support this forum. You won't go wrong buying any or all of these brands (one each for different colors of thread)! The sewing machine advertisers who financially support this forum on an ongoing basis include (but aren't limited to) Bob Kovar (Cowboy), Steve Tayrien (Cobra) and Ronny from Techsew. Additionally, Weaver Leather is a major supplier, customizer and service provider of the high end Adler leather sewing machines.

The shuttle timing is way retarded. The hook should be picking off the loop much sooner. Perhaps the driving pinion gear came loose in transport, throwing off the timing. The hook should pickup the loop just after the needle moves all the way down, then slightly up and halts.

Claudia; I just approved your help wanted post. Sorry about the delay. I am at work in my shop and only check the forum occasionally.

There are some members who own Chinese patchers and would be in a better position to assist you if you start a new topic. There is nobody I know of who knows more about these Chinese patchers than Darren Brosowski.

DesirCustoms; This (old) topic is about a Singer 29k60 patch machine. Not all patchers are alike. The presser foot in your video is not a standard Singer foot. Please start a new topic for your other brand/model. Also, please take more photos showing the name plate, base, cylinder arm and top parts. Show a picture of how you have it threaded and measure the length of the needle. Make sure the needle is all the way up in the mounting bracket.

I use JavaScript obfuscation on web pages containing "mailto:" links. But, as email use falls to the wayside with the rise of Facebook Messenger, I find that contact forms are better for allowing people to get in touch without revealing my email address. The downside to replying to them is that some of these folks have mail harvesters (spyware) on their computers and don't know it.

Backing off the top tensions and pressures is the key here. What's missing is metal behind the inside foot (the harness outer feet are open behind the inner foot). That is as good as it gets for a two footed machine. Maybe somebody with a machine shop can come up with an outside 441 presser foot with solid steel inline with the needlebar and the same narrow profile as the ones shipping with the machines. The different feed in reverse is a penalty. But, none of the needle and awl machines have reverse.

This reminds me about the differences between modern lockstitch sewing machines and old fashioned needle and awl harness stitchers of yesteryear. The goal of sewing is sometimes just a straight top stitch line with well buried knots to keep the materials from falling apart. Other times the stitching becomes part of the design and the bottom stitches must resemble the top ones, which are sometimes slanted, not straight. This is a problem for most modern sewing machines. Those are times when independent craftsmen (and women) can charge extra for hand sewing for a perfect top and bottom appearance. By properly angling the stabbing awl, one can hand sew slanted stitch lines that match on the top and bottom. Back in the late 1880s through early 1900s, a few harness machinery builders came up with some ingenious sewing machine designs that were able to closely approximate the visual appearance of hand saddle stitched leather goods (mostly on harness and tack). They created "needle and awl machines." This isn't the place to go into great depth about this type of sewing machinery. Perhaps someone will be interested in starting a new thread about them. Suffice it to say that the machines that are still available and have parts made tend to cost double or triple what one would pay for a brand new "441" clone. Learning curves can be strenuous and there is lots of room for error and serious injuries with some of these machines (I know). If one wants a close to perfect top and bottom stitch, one can either locate and finance a working or rebuilt condition needle and awl machine (with very expensive needles, awls, bobbins and accessories), or hunt down an elusive Number 9 or Luberto Classic, or a Ferdinand Bull jump foot, needle feed machine. These machines have one thing in common: no feed dog, a jumping foot and either needle or awl feeding of the leather. Lacking an inside alternating foot (standard on walking foot machines), they don't suffer from the obvious oval or round depressions surrounding the needle holes on the bottom stitch line. I have been able to come close to this appearance on my Cowboy CB4500 by removing the feed dog and swapping out the standard throat plate for one with a long narrow slot, a little wider than a #27 needle. Others have had custom plates milled out with even narrower slots, more suited to a #25 needle. By operating with the lowest spring pressure needed to hold the leather down, this minimizes the puckering on the bottom of the needle holes. Not as nice as a Union Lockstitch, Campbell Lockstitch, or Landis 3, but nice enough to please most buyers of the sewn goods. IHTH

If the check spring throw is too long the top thread will be taut going around the bobbin case. The solution is to shorten the throw by means of the sliding bottom stop bracket, or the curved slot if your machine has that type of spring adjuster. Experiment! The check spring only needs to hold the top thread taut until the needle has fully penetrated the material.

According to the manual, the recommended needles are system 128x3 (round point) and 128x4 (leather point) in sizes 11, 12 and 13. Those sizes are best suited to #33 or #44 bonded nylon thread. The shanks are only 34mm long, which is similar to the needles used in 31-15 tailoring machines. I suspect that the maximum thickness the roller wheel can hold down without puckering would be about 3/16 to possibly 1/4 inch of medium temper chrome tanned shoe leather. I didn't see any mention of stitch length in that manual. Again, post machines built for the shoe trade in those days typically sewed at anywhere from 16 to 32 stitches per inch. Cowboy boots are a good example of this type of short stitch with very thin thread.

And National

Here is a link to Google search results for "obfuscate your email address." There are plenty of suggestions and even an online tool to do the work for you. Obfuscate means to obscure (verb) something; to conceal a meaning from plain sight.

Here is a link to Google search results for "obfuscate your email address." There are plenty of suggestions and even an online tool to do the work for you. Obfuscate means to obscure (verb) something; to conceal a meaning from plain sight.

We have lots of guests posting requests for assistance with their leather work and projects. Many of the responders will be full members of Leatherworker.net. As such, they are accustomed to making use of our private messages (PM) system and also are able to access the email addresses of other members. But Guests do NOT have access to either, nor can you look up the profiles of our members. Therefore, if you are posting a new topic or simply replying to another person's topic and are not a member of Leatherworker.net, make sure you include your contact information. The most common ways of doing this are by listing a phone number, an email address, or a link to your publicly viewable website or blog where you have a contact form, or email link. As for posting email addresses, please take time to read my sticky topic that is pinned to the top of this forum, dealing with altering your email address to avoid having it harvested by spam bots. If you don't have time to read the topic, it boils down to obfuscating your email address so it is broken up into space separated groups and certain symbols (period, dash, underscore, @) are replaced with words. If you posted a topic or request for assistance, without listing contact info and don't get any replies, check back and see if a member has invited you to reply via the PM or email system. Post a reply to him or her and include your contact details. Members; if you are replying to Guest posters and want to offer assistance, either use their posted contact info or show your own in your replies. Make sure you obfuscate your email address before posting it, to avoid spam bots that harvest plain text email addresses from web pages.