Wizcrafts

Thanks! I'm hangin' in like Gunga Din!

If I learn more about this machine I will post it here.

I only use titanium coated needles on my Singer 139 walking foot machine. Sometimes I sew long projects at full speed on my servo motor (about 20 stitches per second). So far the thread hasn't melted of snapped. But, I only sew like that once in a while, not all day. The rest of the time I sew a few stitches per second.

I heard from Cobra Steve about the new Class 26 machine. He told me that it sews from 3 ounces up to 3/8 inch, uses standard walking foot System 135x16 and 135x17 needles, sizes 18 - 24, has an extra large hook that takes Juki LU (double capacity) bobbins and can handle up to #277 thread on top, with #207 in the bobbin. It also uses standard Singer 111 type walking feet. That's all I know at this time. I hope this helps.

The problem with Biothane is that it is religious and heals the holes instantly, just before the knots are pulled up. I had better luck sewing Biothane on a Union Lockstitch than on my CB4500 or a Cobra Class 4.

I've sent a request for clarification about the model 26 thread capacity to Leather Machine Company. I will report back after I hear from them.

Biothane is wicked. Not only do you need to use a larger needle, but you also need to tighten the top tension, or loosen the bobbin spring. Also, not estableshed, but try using a non-leather point needle. This stuff is made of vinyl, which is usually sewn with a round/sharp point, not a leather point. A compromise would be a tri-point needle.

I'll probably buy one from you.

Try using a #25 needle with 277 thread. It pokes a wider hole, making it easier to pull the knots up. Plus, there is less bending and deflection with a wider needle.

I've sewn a holster that was just shy of an inch thick, on a Cowboy CB4500. Here's how I did it. If any raised throat plate was installed, change back to either the standard plate or the flat slotted plate (the lower, the better) If standard plate and feeder, lower the action of the feed dog so its maximum height is just level with the top of the slot in the plate. Rethread with #346 thread, top and bottom Reduce bobbin tension to barely hold back the bobbin thread. Use the large wrench that came with the machine to loosen and move the crank shaft coming out of the back of the head - that moves up and down inside a long curved slot - to whichever position lowers the alternating height to the minimum. I think that was all the way down on the 4500, but I'm at home today on my day off. Tighten the crank once it is at its lowest lift position. I had to also reposition the alternating inside foot to meet the top with the needle, or slightly afterward. Normally, that foot meets the leather much farther down. I had to crank down the pressure screw all the way to keep the leather from lifting with the needle. I replaced the standard chisel point needle with a diamond/tri point needle (#26) I set the stitch length longer to keep from filigreeing the bottom layer. It was slow going and stressful but I eventually got the holster sewn and locked in. The result is shown below.

It does have the same triple feed mechanism as the bigger 441 type machines! The difference is that it is specifically built to only sew a half inch above the flattest throat plate. Attaching a raised holster or stirrup plate that is normally used on the CB4500, or equivalent, would reduce the available sewing capacity down to as little as about 10-12 ounces. The two feet need to alternate up and down at least an eighth of an inch and sometimes more to feed the material or climb over new layers and back down. How small is #69 thread? Answer: .0115" (.292mm) (Source) I use #69 thread to sew pigskin wallet interiors and to hem denim or thin leather garments. Chinese belt makers use it to hold their bonded leather belts together (until they crack and fall apart in 6 months). Upholsters use 69 to hold seat cushions/covers together. It is okay for any thin projects that don't exert over 11 pounds pull on the seams. For some machines, #69 is the upper limit. For others, it is the lower, or probably below the lower limit (as in 441 clones). I hope this isn't too confusing.

I have the big brother to the 3200; the 4500 and my buddy has a Cobra Class 4. I sew on both of these machines and have not had much luck with thread sizes smaller than #138. I have been able to fiddle with the settings to sew with #92 thread, but it takes time to get there and back again for heavy sewing. I find that even after adjusting these machines to use #92 thread, the reverse sewing is iffy at best. The problem is that the thinner needles are farther away from the hook to start and get pulled even farther to the left as you sew. Skipped stitches are easy to accomplish with this setup. I find that rather than fighting with a huge machine to dumb it down, it's easier to buy a lighter duty machine to handle thin thread projects. So, I use a standard build of compound feed walking foot machine to sew wallets, phone cases, hems and zippers. When the material is too light or soft for even that machine, I switch over to an old tailoring machine that is only good with thin (up to #69) thread and little needles, with about a 1/4 inch material capacity (not leather). If you care to spend time readjusting spring tensions and hook timing, you can probably get a CB3200 to sew about 4 ounces with #69 thread. The goal is to create the largest loop possible for the approaching hook to pick off. That is easier to do with larger thread sizes than smaller ones on the big machines that have heavy springs and huge take-up levers. Finally, as difficult as it can be to dumb down a big machine, the reverse is also true if you try to smarten up a lesser machine. Many members, including little old part time Webmaster me, have tried this on a lot of machines, only to throw in the towel and get a bigger machine for thick thread sewing jobs. If most of your current sewing will be mostly not exceed 3/8 inch and you will be happy with 15 pound test #138 thread, a medium duty walking foot machine should get you by until the need and money arises for something bigger. FYI: a 441 machine is a synonym for the Juki TSC-441 machine that is built in Japan. You can have one for the mere price of $6500 + $225 shipping from Nick-O-Sew.

The Cowboy CB3200 is an entry level 441 clone. It can sew with thread sizes #138 up to #346. Its range of thicknesses is from about 6 ounces up to 32 ounces. If that is too heavy duty, the CB227R will use thread sizes up to no more than #207 on top, with #138 in the bobbin, and thicknesses from about 2 ounces up to 20 ounces. If you want to get into very heavy work, the Cobra Class 4 can sew over 3/4 of an inch.

There are several esteemed industrial sewing machine dealers who advertise their wares via banners on top of every page on our forums. They pay to support us and value their reputations when it comes to customer service. You should consider using these banner ads to investigate the machines and prices from these dealers. Many of us own machines from two or more of our supporting dealers. I personally own machines bought from Cowboy Bob (Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines), Cobra Steve (Leather Machine Co.) and have parts purchased from Techsew. These are not the only places I buy machines and parts, but are my primary suppliers. I can tell you from experience that these dealers do support their customers. But, the first two are not large scale operations (2 or 3 people) and it may take a while for the owner or technician to reply to messages and emails. Despite any delays, none have ever left me hanging. Sometimes a servo motor may quit (electronics!) or a v-belt may shred, or I may need accessory presser feet, a different needle plate, needles, bobbins, thread, or oil. In my experience, the item is usually in the mail or on a truck the next day after talking to the company.

Skipped stitches all the time can be caused by inserting the needle 180 degrees out of phase. The scarf (cutout) above the eye should face due-right on a Cobra Class 4 (and all other similar machines). If you inserted the needle with the scarf facing to the left, the hook can't pick off the loop effectively.

I used to own a Singer 96k40. I can only imagine that it is similar in design to your 96k21. If true, your machine is nothing more than a tailoring machine for cloth garment sewing. You'd be lucky to sew 1/4 inch (6mm) of denim, but it's more likely that it will not even handle that thickness. Plus, that machine, if like my previous k40, is only a drop feed machine , which is not good for leather sewing. Thread-wise, the k21 might handle up to #69 bonded thread, which has just 11 pounds strength per stitch. That is strong enough to set a zipper into a biker's wallet, or for hemming a leather garment, but not for sewing 11 ounces or more of medium to hard temper leather.. Now, your friend/source recommended a machine capable of sewing 22mm of leather, which is 2mm over 3/4 inch (just under 7/8 inch). This requires a Juki 441 or clone, or a top of the line Adler 205 or 969, or a Campbell Lockstitch machine. My Cowboy CB4500 can sew 20mm (3/4 inch) with little adjustment, or 7/8 inch with some lessening of the foot lift and total cranking down of the pressure spring on the presser foot. Further, these machines can easily use thread size 277 and 346, with tensile strengths of 44 and 56 pounds per stitch.

That is the correct point for leather (in addition to the sometimes available diamond points). If you need to sew denim or other cloth, buy some 7x3 round point needles. The spear or chisel point you got will shred cloth.

I may put this idea to work in my shop on my CB4500. Thanks Uwe!

The DBx1, 16x257, et al, needles Uwe posted the picture of are the ones I use in my 1921 Singer 31-15. I have them in round and leather points, from sizes 12 through 20. My machine maxes out with #69 bonded, or #80 cotton jeans thread, so a #20 needle is bigger than I will ever need. My machine cannot tension or clear #138 thread on top at all, so there's no need for a #22 needle. Maybe NatCamp's 1950 model has a bigger hook than my 1921 model. If for some reason the proper needle system doesn't fit his needlebar and clamp, somebody along the way may have installed the wrong needlebar and clamp for that machine and meant it to use a different needle system (unlikely, but possible). But, if the shank of a DBx1, et al, fits inside the needlebar and clamp but won't pick up the bobbin thread, the bar may have moved from an impact, throwing off the timing. Installing the proper needle system and lowering or raising the needlebar in its clamp inside the faceplate should bring the top of the eye just below the oncoming hook on the upstroke. Finally, the cutout scarf above the eye must face due right to position the loop properly for the hook to pick it off.

NickH; The hook on your model 26 is not designed to use or even pass #277 thread. There are insufficient clearances for such big thread. You should begin saving for a 441 clone to use thread sizes 207, 277 and 346.

I sometimes use a #23 needle with #207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. But, I always use a #24 if I have 207 top and bottom.

I recommend using either a #24 or #25 leather point needle to sew with #277 thread.

Bingo! It works perfectly and the scan is excellent. Thanks.

Ferdinand went out of business a few years ago. All their remaining parts were sold to an industrial sewing machine company in Chicago who know nothing about leather sewing machines. Your chances of finding any parts specific to that machine are somewhere between null and void. Ditto for servicing. But, if the machine is pristine and fully equipped with parts and accessories, that's about the right price in current depreciated Canadian dollars. A new Cowboy CB3500 would cost about the same money in $ CDN.