Wizcrafts

At least half of the Singer 111 and 153 machines I've had have threads missing from the stitch length adjusting rod. I settle on the desired length and set it with the set screws and leave it alone. In fact, the only adjuster that is in good working condition now is on the end of my Singer 139w109 long body walking foot machine.

I like your custom winders! That's nice work Constab! Where did you find the netting for the thread spool? What is it called officially?

I've kind of been wanting a Bonis (or similar) fur sewing machine for a year or two. I repair all kinds of leather and some fur covered items, including gloves, fur coats and Ugg type shoes. I should investigate if there are any clamp on/portable units made, as I've run out of room for any more machine tables.

Congrats! Did you ask Ron about thread? They sell all sizes of thread and needles that work with their machines. Otherwise, contact Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, an advertiser here, about their Cowboy brand thread. They may also still have some high end Anafil thread on hand. Otherwise, check out Superior Thread for various weights at least up to #346. Note: colors tend to be limited once you reach #346 BTW: We normally speak about thread for sewing leather in US sizes rather than the British Ticket sizes. The US sizes would be #346 and #415 (aka: T400). See this thread and needle chart for a cross reference and other technical specs.

I was only able to try out the 869 ECO at Weaver's and it blew me away. I would have a 969 in a heartbeat if I had that kind of money. No contest!

The Techsew 3850 Pro can handle lighter work to a point. Being based on the $6,000 Juki TSC-441, while targeted at large thread, thick work sewers, above 6 ounces, this scaled down clone can be fitted with thinner #19 or #20 needles that are normally used to sew with #92 bonded thread (15 pound test). You would probably need to change the tensions on the top and bobbin case and possibly also to the check spring to get properly placed knots. But, from my own experience sewing on Cobra and Cowboy 441 clone machines, it is doable. The TS-3850 looks like a very capable machine that can do all that you've asked, albeit with some adjusting. It is priced very competitively with the other name brands sold by other dealers who support our forums. In the scheme of things, it is priced in the sweet spot between the mid-level and higher end machines. The company is a supporter of Leatherworker.net and they stand behind their machines if and when buyers have problems. The basic reality is that super heavy duty 441 type machines can be dumbed down to handle thinner thread, needles and projects, if you are willing to dink with the tensions and maybe change to a slotted throat plate and remove the huge feed dog. In contrast, you simply cannot make most of the lighter duty walking foot machines sew thick leather or use thread heavier than #207, if they'll even handle that size. My solution is to have more than one machine and use the one best suited to a particular job. But that's me. As regards discounts, the best time and place to seek them is to attend one of the regional leather crafting shows where the machine dealers set up and show off their machines. You might could get a real deal in person, rather than on the phone. Most dealers would rather go home with cash in hand then load unsold heavy machines, at the end of the show. But, once you ask them to pack, palletize, insure and ship a machine by trucks across the Country, there is no room left to dicker on the price. You can also check classifieds in your State to see if anybody within driving range has a similar used machine for sale. We have a classifieds section called the Marketplace where people sell both reconditioned and used sewing machines. You might find one you like there at a price you're comfortable with. if you guys think some other machine will work better i would like to hear it, There is indeed another leather sewing machine that I can think of that does all the things you asked about and more, with the utmost smoothness and precision and has an even larger bobbin capacity. It is from Germany and is being offered to discriminating US customers seeking the ultimate stitching machine, at an unheard of introductory price, by another one of our sponsors. See the description and price here.

You're kidding, right?

I pretty much learn something new every day. I have a lot of interests and an expensive N scale hobby that are never ending learning experiences. FWIIW: The fake fur is glued onto the saddle waiting for sewing and trimming when I come back to the shop on Thursday.

Do you ever give lessons to newbies in the saddlery business?

I'm learning a lot from my query about relining fleece on saddles. Thanks guys! My main takeaway to this point in time is that a reline must be more than remove and replace. It will involve a lot of time and possibly new leather on the bottom of the skirts. I hate to think of it, but it almost sounds like disassembling the skirts from the saddle may be the best way to do this kind of job. Whatever the outcome of this job, the next one will be quoted at least triple what I charged, if not more, or I won't undertake it. I forgot to mention that I was only allowed one full week to do the reline and other strap work on another saddle. The customers are leaving on a cross-country trek on their horses and a mule on May 2.

I bought a Singer 29k71 that only had short stitches. After pulling the head apart I found that the feed motion crank had a worn down puck. Back in the 1980s I would have just brazed on some bronze rod and reshaped that puck. This time I went on eBay and bought a new aftermarket replacement part. After installing it and using Emory cloth to get the best fit without binding in 360 degrees, I instantly got 5 stitches per inch.

Thanks Ron! I appreciate your advice. Do you have any opinion on using electric animal shears to shave the wool? Does anybody do this?

I just took in an old saddle for refleecing with synthetic fleece. I used a Hyde knife, head knife and 10" scissors to cut and peel off the old wool fleece. Unfortunately, one side was too well bonded to the leather liner and took off chunks of leather under the wool and skin. The removal part of the job is taking too long and I will be losing money on this one. I also cut a lot of the linen thread holding the fleece to the skirts and inside leather lining, which has to be resewn assembled. Does anybody use electric sheep shears to shave off the old fleece on saddles, rather than slicing it off with knives? If so, what brand or source would you recommend to me for very occasional use? I just need to take it down to the flesh to reline it. Don't tell me to charge more for refleecing. I figured that out today while struggling to remove the wool. The price was agreed to and prepaid.

When you get some #25 leather point needles the bottom stitches will improve and the knots will be easier to pull up.

Number 69 (T70) bonded nylon thread has a tensile strength of 11 pounds per stitch. This should be fine for most gloves. One might use #92 in leather/suede reinforced areas.

The Cowboy CB-227R handles #138 thread with ease and has reverse too. But, it costs over 50% more than your budget. I think you are going to be limited to looking for old used cylinder arm machines if 1k is your top price.

You will have to raise the presser bar high enough to allow the high shank feet to screw onto it. This assumes that the bottom of the head is tall enough to clear the top of the presser foot mounting bracket. Then, there must be enough additional vertical clearance to allow you to lift the foot with the lifting lever to remove material and release the thread tension, without the top of the foot hitting the head and halting its movement. Some industrial presser feet that only have a needle hole may not line up with your needle bar. Those with slots may clear the needle enough to allow you to sew. If you are able to do all these things, the final step is to set the machine to center the needle in the slot or hole in the foot, in straight stitch mode (no zig-zag). I'm going to guess that this isn't going to happen as the O.P. hopes.

I would pre-order some spare bearings and other cranks that Boss had problems with. I'm thinking that because they are using a cast iron frame and steel internals, operational and seasonal problems might be greatly reduced from what Boss owners experienced with aluminum frame models. Time will tell.

Uwe; I have a good friend with a Cobra Class 4 who had the feed dog slimmed down on four sides, filled in slightly inside the hole and a matching smooth curved throat plate made to contain the modified feeder. the shorter length reflected his desire to not exceed 4 to the inch, or use anything larger than a #25 needle. The narrower width helped reduce the stuffing of soft bison and chap leather inside the bigger slot in the OEM plate. He has minimum deflection of #22 needles and is better able to sew mushy leather items than I am on my Cowboy, unless I switch to the slotted plate. That's where I could probably use your bottom guide.

Yes, along with the narrow, smooth harness feet. The original Juki 441 had what we now call the blanket feet. It sold for about $6,000 when I first saw it in a warehouse. The feet that ship with the Cowboy 441 clones are made of stainless steel. Actually, the Adler 204 and 205 offered a smooth feed dog option, creating the sub-class 374 instead of 370. I had a 204-374 for a short time, before trading it for a Union Lockstitch Machine.

I have owned a lot of walking foot machines and none had smooth feed dogs. But, Consew did offer a smooth rubber feed dog at one point in time. They may or may not still have them for sale. All of my upholstery grade compound/triple feed machines took the standard type 111 (as in Singer 111w) feet and most of them are smooth bottomed. The few that do have teeth are usually zipper and edge binding sets, or specialty feet for marine sewing projects. In contrast, most of the dual feed walking foot machines (top and bottom driven) I've encountered only had toothed feet available. This gives the best traction when sewing vinyl and slippery or very long items. But, it eats leather for breakfast unless you back way off on the pressure spring. Now, onto the 441s you asked about. The top name brands of 441 clones targeted at leathercrafters all come fitted with smooth presser feet and feed dogs. This is a departure from the original version of the Juki TSC-441. Originally, it was targeted at the buffing wheel and ballistic materials market, where teeth were an advantage. Now that these machines have been hijacked by us leather sewers, smooth feet and feed dogs are in great demand. Only the off-brand 441 machines still ship with teeth on the feet and feeder. These are the no-name drop shipped machines that come to you directly from China. In case you were going to ask, the Cobra, Cowboy and Techsew 441 clones ship with a set of so called blanket feet and matching large feeder, all of with have aggressive teeth. They are great for sewing buffing wheels!

Mods can't alter the folder structure of the forum. We can move posts, merge them, lock them and delete them. But, I like your idea about having a new sub-directory for reference material. I'll toss it around with Johanna when I get time.

That paddle shaped spring has a very important job. It is supposed to hold the top thread in place as the needle reaches bottom dead center and lifts briefly to form the loop for the hook to pick off. Without that spring, or with a deformed or weak spring, the take-up lever's top-mounted leaf spring can pull the thread back up through the needle bar, dissolving the loop before it can get picked off by the hook.

It will come out the top if you remove the needle clamp (on the bottom of the bar), and the take-up lever and its plunger, which is otherwise in the way on top.

In my unpleasant experience, you have to remove the needle bar to get to those screws. Further, once removed, set them down apart on the left and right so you can reinstall them into the same positions (they often get shaped to clear the inside of the housing).