Wizcrafts

Troy; If you are sewing bridle leather it is trivial to rub out the foot marks.

I have one inside presser foot for my Cowboy CB4500 that has the ridge on the bottom. It works great on straight stitch lines, but creates nasty impressions on certain turns. Sometimes the off-track impressions can be spooned out, other times, not so well.

As I pointed in before, make sure you are rotating the wheel towards you from the top, which is in a counterclockwise direction on the shaft, from the read of the machine. Modern sewing machines almost always rotate CCW. They will not pick up the bobbin thread or form stitches if you turn the wheel the wrong way. It is an easy mistake for a first time sewer to make.

There is a movable stopped under the check spring, secured by a flathead screw. Loosen the screw and adjust the metal stopped so the check spring stops a little higher up. Try again. The standard position is the arm of the spring faces more or less horizontal. Approximately how much upward travel is your needle making before the hook arrives over the eye?

Set the hook so it intersects inside the scarf of the needle, a bit over the top of the eye, after it has raised about 3/16" from BDC, with the stitch lever at zero. Next, pull out the thread and rethread the machine. Do not skip any part along the path. As experienced as I am, I have forgotten to go through the take-up lever once or twice! No take-up, no sew. Make sure the thread path is unobstructed from the spool onward. It must flow freely until it gets to the top tension disks. It must sit all the way down between those disks to maintain top tension. The little steel loop on the lower right of the disks can be repositioned slightly to get the thread well into the disks. From there, go down and once fully around the lower disks, the through the guide over then, then through the loop in the "check" spring* attached to that assembly. From there, up through the take-up lever, down through the clip guide, the wire guide, and the hole above the needle mount, then through the eye of the needle, from left to right. Before testing, lift the presser feet with the foot lever, they should go up high, at least 7/8" or higher (mine lift a bit over 1"). Pull on the top thread at the take-up lever and ensure that it flows freely. Lower the foot lifter and try pulling again. It should be hard to pull the thread, meaning you have (adjustable) top tension. Load bobbin thread counterclockwise, through the slit in the bobbin case. Adjust the spring tensioner for a modest pull on the bobbin thread. It should neither be jammed or totally loose. A smooth steady pull is best, generally speaking. Rotate the hand wheel toward you from the top, in a counterclockwise direction, manually (depress the speed pedal slightly to free the internal brake, if your motor has one). If you rotate the wheel the wrong way the machine will not sew! Watch as the needle goes down and starts back up. The hook should intersect the needle above the eye and you should see a loop form to the right. The hook should then pick off the loop as you continue rotating. the wheel. * The check spring's job is to maintain tension on the top thread as the take-up lever moves down. It should hold that tension until the needle contacts the top of the material. This is to keep the needle from piercing the top thread due to too much slack. OTOH, it must give up and stop before the needle starts back up, after BDC. Otherwise, no loop will be formed. The check spring is set by the dealer before the machine is shipped and is usually spot on. Report back. Over.

Yeah, shuttles are expensive to replace. I know. The bolt is where it is! That's why I loosen, then finger tighten it, so I can turn it with my fingers (in theory!). The eraser protects the shuttle when you need to hit it to move it.

Thanks for the correction Bob. It's my day off and the machine is 4 miles away from home. The whole deal is to have enough rotation between BDC and the arrival of the pointed hook to have it pick off the loop that forms on the right side of the needle. There is a best position for this to happen.

Okay, you seem to know about the hidden bolt. Here is what I do when I have to adjust machines like yours. Rotate the hand wheel until you have direct access to the bolt. Loosen the bolt, than lightly go clockwise to give it a little grip, but not a locked down tightness. Rotate the wheel until the needle has gone all the way down and comes up about 3/16". Stop rotating. Grab the shuttle and try to move it in the direction that places the point of the hook about 1/8" above the eye of the needle (with stitch lever at zero). If it won't move, place something soft, like a pencil eraser, against the appropriate edge and tap lightly to reposition the hook. Once you get the hook positioned, rotate the wheel until the face of the bolt is accessible and tighten it down all the way. Be careful not to damage the hook! Test the timing in forward and backward. If all is good, call it a day and start sewing.

Did you buy the machine brand new, from Leather Machine Company? Or, was it a used machine from a private seller? If new, you can call the company tomorrow, during normal business hours on the West Coast. There are two basic places where the timing can be adjusted. One is the height of the needle bar, which is secured by two Allen screws, inside the faceplate. The other is the positioner for the hook, which is accessible through a round covered hole in the base of the machine, on the right-front side. It is safer to try raising the needle bar than to dink with the inside the body mechanism, without expert guidance. All timing adjustments should be made with the stitch length/direction lever set to the zero movement position. This balances the range between forward and backward feeding. Also, since Bob is responding on his day off, you are under expert guidance already.

Jimbob; Here is a link to our Marketplace for Sewing equipment

I recently had to return some spring presser feet for my straight stitch machine because they were bent and misaligned. The dealer cheerfully replaced them and sent a prepaid return envelope.

The bigger the bobbin, the more thread it can hold and the more stuff you can sew between bobbin changes. It's that simple. The typical large bobbin used in modern machines (e.g. Consew 206RB-5) is called an "M" style bobbin. It holds about 50% more thread than a typical Class 15, or Singer G type bobbin and even more than a Class 66 bobbin. Where this really comes into play is if you are sewing with #138 thread in the bobbin. With an M bobbin, you may be able to sew 10 to 12 belts along the edge, depending on the thickness and overall length (this is from memory and may be overzealous). Then, there is the Juki LU bobbin, which holds double the amount of thread as a standard industrial bobbin. It is about 1/8" larger in diameter than an M bobbin and a little taller. Some Juki machines have the double capacity hooks needed to use these bobbins. These hooks are more expensive than M size hooks. The size of the hook and bobbin determine the dimensions of the business end of a cylinder arm machine. Obviously, the large bobbins take up more space than those half their diameter. So, you end up with a fatter left side of the arm. If the diameter of the arm must be as small as possible, to sew inside your important items, then a smaller bobbin machine will be required, with its lower thread holding capacity. In these instances, using a smaller bobbin thread (e.g. #69 or #92) lets you sew farther before a bobbin change.

All your work can be sewn on most any upholstery grade walking foot machine. The variables you will encounter are where it was made, what quality assurance and seller's assistance you will get, the condition of the moving parts on a used machine, the position and size of the bobbin, type of presser feet, whether it is compound or dual feed, the type of motor and size of the motor pulley. For instance, people sewing cloth and banners may prefer a machine that has teeth on the presser feet to add clawing power to bulky projects. Folks sewing veg-tan leather with a smooth grain side won't want that kind of machine because it ruins the top appearance with tooth marks. They will want a compound feed walking foot machine with smooth presser feet. They can always buy a set of feet with teeth for slippery vinyl jobs. But, it is more expensive and sometimes impossible to find smooth feet for the dual feed machines built for claw feet. Upholstery shops tend to set up their machines to sew at the machine's speed limit. For them, time is money. They use clutch motors with very large pulleys to drive the machine at the same speed or even faster than the motor! These motors spin at either 1725 or 3450 rpm (if memory serves me well at my age). Geared 1:1 (same size pulley on motor and machine), a 1725 rpm motor will drive a machine at 28 stitches per second. That is fine for sewing tarps and long couch covers, including upholstery grade leather. All the sewing is along a defined seam on the edges and an edge guide helps ensure a straight stitch line. People sewing smaller projects with sharp turns and intricate patterns, or sewing leather that is denser or harder than garment or light chap will want to sew much slower and need more precise control than one typically gets by "feathering" a clutch motor. Thus, motor manufactures began building electronically controlled motors we call servo motors. Our dealers who advertise here have chosen motors that work best with the machines they sell and warranty. These servo motors have a means of setting the upper speed limit to whatever you are comfortable sewing with. Most are still powerful enough at the slowest speed setting to power a walking foot machine at 1 stitch per second, or close to it. Some dealers will install a 3:1 speed reducer between the motor and machine to give the sewer more torque and very slow speeds, well under 1 per second. This comes in handy for pattern sewing, or penetrating hard leather. It also causes the machine to lose top end and may only allow 5 or 6 stitches per second at full bore. As for brands to recommend, I say the made in Japan Juki and Seiko, followed by new Chinese clone machines set up and vouched for by our member dealers, followed by a used machine made by Singer, National, Consew, Juki, Adler, or Pfaff. Most old machines lack reverse and may have complicated methods for changing the stitch length. Beware of the condition of old walking foot machines being sold by upholsterers (or from garage sales). They usually sew at full speed and the machine's clearances may be very sloppy. Replacing worn out parts is time consuming and can be costly. Also, new aftermarket replacement parts may not fit properly in an old machine. Since you mentioned Singer as one of the brands you are interested in, you need to know that they are no longer in production by the Singer Sewing Machine company (for a long time). You will either get a used or rebuilt machine or a knockoff relabeled with Singer decals.

I agree that is looks like a CB3500. I don't know whose machine it is or how high it lifts and sews. If it will sew 3/4 inch, it is similar to a 3500. But, if it only sews 1/2 inch, it is closer to a 3200. It should take the same feet as a Cowboy. You can buy separate left and right toe feet, accessory throat plates, edge guides, needles, bobbins, oil and thread from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

10-4 on that

Are you aware that you can buy a brand spankin new Consew 206RB-5 in the vicinity of just $1300 to $1400? That includes a new servo motor, all mounted on a new table.

Use Schmetz needles if available in system 190, in either S or D point. S lays down an inline stitch that is perfect on top and slightly embedded on the bottom, with a tight hole that is like an inline chisel. Diamond points create a more surface oriented result, on the top and bottom and a wider hole. This more closely resembles hand stitching, in my opinion. Your results may vary. I would buy a pack of each type, in each size you intend to use, as availability dictates. Note, that the bottom stitches will all have a round pucker where the leather gets pushed down on the hole in the feed dog. Compound feed machines cannot duplicate the look of hand stitching on the bottom. Only a needle and awl machine comes close. The 1508NH is able to handle up to #207 bonded thread. Nylon is the usual thread used in all but outdoor goods. Then, you can upgrade to bonded polyester at a higher price per spool. I recommend using #24 (180) needles with #207, on top and in the bobbin. Or, use 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. You can sew longer with thinner bobbin thread, at a loss of just 25% strength per stitch. Do not use a smaller bobbin thread if strength is of importance (holsters, double leather belts, saddle bags). FYI: #207, the largest thread the 1508NH can handle properly, is less than hald the diameter of Tiger thread. In order to sew with a similar thickness of thread, you would need to move up to either a 441 clone (Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew, etc), an Adler 205-370, or a needle and awl machine (e.g. Campbell Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch), which are not beginner machines.

If you want to sew double leather gun belts that are between 14 and 16 ounces thick, you should be using #277 thread (and a #25 needle). Unfortunately, your machine can't handle that size of thread. Your alternative is to sew two parallel rows of #138 thread (#23 needle) along the edges, 1/8 to 3/16 inch apart. Five stitches per inch is probably best. Make sure you use the same size in the bobbin, as you are already at a fairly low protection level with #138 thread. FWIIW: I did this on my previous National 300N walking foot machine until I got a real leather stitcher. One does what one must do.

The Touch and Sew machines are not built to pound bonded thread into leather. They, like all of the domestic sewing machines, are bottom fed only. The lack of top and needle feed makes it difficult, if not impossible to sew more than a couple layers of thin chap leather. The stitch length will be tiny at best. If you feel that the machine is a must have deal, buy it to do quilts and hem light cloth pants and skirts, or to make pillow cases and such. Don't buy it to sew leather. Save your money and buy a good walking foot machine with compound feed, capable of tensioning up to #138 thread, top and bottom. None of the domestics can handle that thread, which is the standard on chaps..

Also, sump pump oiled machines need to spin at over 2500 rpm to deliver the oil to the extremities. That is the bottom speed required for proper oiling. Most of the time, they are operated at 5000+ rpm. FYI: A self-oiling machine spinning at just 2500 rpm is sewing at about 40 stitches per second. I doubt that any leather crafter wants to sew that fast! Our machines typically don't exceed 5 stitches per second, or 300 stitches per minute. Anything over 9 or 10 per second causes smoke to happen in anything denser than chap leather.

Despite its size, the 144 is still an upholstery grade machine. It will max out with a #23 needle and 138 bonded thread. It will sew better with #92 thread. This machine is built to sew tarps, tents, upholstery covers and sails. It is not a holster makers' machine.

When I worked at M&M Leather, the owner had a Randall strap cutter. After truing the backbone, we both held the leather in alignment, one in front, one behind the blades. This minimized any wandering of the leather and produced very straight cuts.

OldNSlow; The Consew 206 is an upholstery grade machine. It was never designed with leather craft in mind. Upholsterers typically max out with #138 thread. This goes into everything four layers thick, like motorcycle seats, leather couch cushions and things made with outdoor vinyl and tents. It is too thick for simple folded seams on signs, awnings and marine seat cushions, where #69 or 92 thread is the tops. Along comes a surge in leathercrafters wanting to sew their projects and a walking foot machine used in an upholstery shop looks like the machine to end all machines. But, it ain't. So, what do I sew on my walking foot machine? I sew patches onto vests and jackets (where no pockets need to be left open), install new zippers in jackets, hem pants and leather skirts, sew and hem chaps, sew phone cases, sew bling belts, minor upholstery work, thinner rifle slings and guitar straps, money belts and miscellaneous items that can be sewn inside out along the seams. My walking foot machine is set up with #92 thread. When I hem jeans I switch to #80 jeans thread. It is usually fitted with a #19 or #20 leather point, titanium coated needle. Every once is a while I thread it with #138 thread and use a #23 leather point, titanium coated needle. I never sew holsters on that machine, nor soft thin linings. I have better machines for those bookends.

We need a "Like" or "+1" button for individual posts like this. It contains very good information in but two sentences.

It's a Singer 111w155