Wizcrafts

Caba; You should get back to Darren and ask him for the specs on his Able patchers. It is a custom build he commissioned.

The 29k patchers used to require system 29x3 and 29x4 needles, which are no longer made. However, system 135x16 is the same length from the top of the shank to the eye. They are a good substitute. As for the maximum thickness, it is 1/4 inch of leather. Since the bobbins are teensie weensie, most folks only thread them with #69 bonded thread (and a #18 needle). Also, if the feed motion crank is worn down, as they usually are on such old machines, the stitch length will suffer tremendously. I once had that model and it only sewed 8 to the inch when I got it. As for sewing boot uppers, that is what they are made to sew. A local bootmaker came to my shop to sew uppers on my long arm, big bobbin, Singer 29k172. The only parts it couldn't sew were the pull tabs on the back (~3/8" thickness). For those, we used my Cowboy CB4500.

I would offer the driver a cash tip to help you offload it and get it into your garage. They usually offer a lift gate option for an extra $75 or so. Did you request this? It would at least get the machine on the ground.

Not really too far gone yet. But, that slack does not heal itself. I have two patchers. One has almost no slack and the other has about as much as yours. Neither skips stitches on a regular basis. But, both skip occasionally. Patchers are what they are.

Yes. If the shuttle driver hole is worn and it allows the shuttle driver to move around the set screw, the timing will become retarded at the worst time. So, getting that screw out becomes the most important factor to determining if there is excessive slack in the drive system.

I felt the same as you the day I brought my first Union Lockstitch machine home. It did have one needle and awl and one bobbin. There was nothing else. No manual, threading rod, 4-sided wrenches, thread, et al. All this came together in one day when I was pointed to a particular harness maker who had one in a corner, with everything I needed. I am confident that you will find somebody, possibly Amish or Mennonite, who knows this particular Puritan setup.

If the only changed is the thread, I vote for the check spring having too much travel, or tension, or both.

So, ti So, a Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy neither admits not denies knowing anything about it!

Nice seat!

The 2700 has a tension release pin. You should not have to pull the top thread by hand, unless the beehive spring is set too tight and the links can't compress. If the spring is that tight, back it off until the disks are able to separate. Then back off the bobbin spring tension to balance the knots.

Okay. If you don't have a precision torch, try using a hammer on the back of the precision screw driver, tapping as you turn.

For my CB4500 it took a standard washer with a 1/4" inside diameter, to correct the fwd/bkwd stitch lengths, plus sometimes re-matching the bottom of the inside foot to the needle making contact with the leather. I'm guessing the washer is about 1/16" thick, or a little less. I frequently recommend this trick, which I was given by Bob Kovar.

Take the shuttle out again and polish the trailing edges. Feel the race, driver and bobbin case for any nicks and polish them out as well. When you reinstall the race plate, leave the spring loaded screws backed off about 1/2 turn each. Oil the race. The reverse not matching forward is a compound error with multiple possible fixes, listed below in order of simplicity/difficulty. Adjust the inside presser foot position so that its bottom meets the top of the leather at about the same time as the needle begins to poke the leather. I know this doesn't sound like a fix, but it can be. Use the large hex driver that came with your Cobra to loosen the hex head screw on the left rear of the head, where the arm transfer motion to the presser feet. Once loosened, you can move the inside foot by hand to match the position of the needle. Tighten the screw afterward. If the above has no effect, or not enough improvement, loosen the top screw on the stitch lever plate and place a washer behind the plate, then tighten the screw back down. This moves the top of the stitch length plate away a little and shortens the stroke in reverse. There is a major stitch length/position adjustment available inside the front access port and another important bolt inside the rear access hole. Consult the paperwork that should have come with your machine. Or, wait until you can get in touch with Steve to talk you through it. A wrong adjustment will make things much worse.

Try a little heat on the needle clamp. Remove the screws, needle and thread first. Tap on it sideways with a rawhide or plastic mallet. It will come loose. Keep in mind that it moves sideways. I think heat may also help loosen the set screw in the driving pinion. If not, try to drill it out. Then replace the shuttle driver, driving pinion gear and set screw. I have found that new replacement parts don't fit the same as Singer parts did. You may have to tap on the bearing that holds the shuttle driver after installing new (top and bottom) parts. The shuttle screw needs to be tightened all the way. If the original is tight, but the hole in the shuttle driver or pinion gear is worn oversize, you will get slack in the timing.

Parts for Landis and Pearson needle and awl machines, as well as fully rebuilt machines. Landis Sales and Service 115 East Co. Rd. 500 North Arthur, Illinois 61911 Eli Schlabach (217) 543-3464

Of course, you are right. All that is missing is a picture of Howdy Doody on the lid. Then it would be a lunch box! Didi you notice the high tech AC cord and modern 2 prong plug that comes with the machine? I'll bet it could be used to power a doll house. How many sewing machines can do that? Heck, it could even sew the doll clothes.

I'll bet that the little beast can sew up to 3/4 mm of real leather!

Let me tell you a secret Ewe. There be Puritans in Toledo ;-)

If Puritan says they have parts, they do. As for Ceroxylon, it is clear and has the consistency of thin rubber glue. While wet, Ceroxylon is a lubricant for linen thread. Once it dries it hardens the linen thread, on both sides (since it sews a chain stitch). Although I kept a quart, I found no other use for Ceroxylon after disposing of my Union Lockstitch machine. It does not get along well with regular eye-needle machines, like my CB4500. If you don't want it, I might. I'm up in Flint./Burton, not too awful far from you. I would leave it as a single needle post machine and use it to sew sandals, hats, bags and such.

Are you sure? It looks like the one he wants is the one that's missing! ;-)

I also prefer to use diamond or triangle point needles when sewing 3/4 inch or more. The stitches lay more on top and bottom on the edges than those sewn with S point needles. Thus, 5 to the inch looks like 5 on top and bottom, whereas with an S point it looks shorter due to the inline slice of the chisel point needle. I keep diamond point in sizes 24 and 25 for my CB4500. I also found that the diamond points are less likely to fray existing stitches than the S points, in very thick leather. I sewed a holster that was a solid 7/8 inch and could not do the job with an S point, which kept fraying the thread. The D point went forward and backward without a hitch.

No, straight stitch feet won't fit into the slotted presser bar. Walking foot machine mechanisms are usually too strong for thin garments. You might try buying a wider set of feet, then back off the pressure screw until the adjust is almost all the way up. You can reduce the alternating lift to a minimum ratio by loosening and moving the crank arm coming out the back all the way either up or down (I don't remember which way lowers the lift and I am at home now) in the curved slot that drives the presser feet. The combination of reduced lift and pressure on the feet may allow it to sew cloth. Also, use the smallest round point needle you can get, with standard cotton or polycore garment thread. A #14 needle will do fine with polycore 40 weight thread, or a #12 needle with regular 50 weight cotton thread. Shorten the stitches to 10 or 12 per inch to reduce puckering and back off the upper tension to try to lower the knots into the cloth. You may or may not also have to reduce the tension on the check spring to get it to move with thin, soft thread.

IDK. Try the heat first. If you can free the screw it might come out with a regular screw driver. At least tap on it when you heat it up. This may improve the depth of the worn slot.

Try a combination of a precision torch to heat the screw and an impact screw driver to loosen and remove it.

Fortunately for me, thread-wise, I live in Michigan. UV deterioration isn't much of a problem up here, especially when most of my sewing is on garments, biker vests, belts, holsters, tow straps, pouches and cases.