Wizcrafts

Type 3L belts are 3/8 across the top, hence 3L designation. They are sold by industrial sewing machine dealers. You are unlikely to find them at auto parts stores that usually stock 4L (1/2 inch) belts for car pulleys. But, I just remembered that you made your own motor pulley. Measure the motor shaft and order a 2" replacement with the correct inside diameter from an industrial sewing machine dealer, along with the new, shorter (3L) belt.

Replacement servo and clutch motors all normally ship with type 3L pulleys. The Family Sew motors I got from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines were fitted with 50mm (2") 3L pulleys. The shaft ID is about 1/2 inch, I think. Clutch motors usually have 3/4" shafts. But the pulleys I have are all for 3L v-belts.

I don't know your setup, but the standard pulley and belt combination for industrial sewing machines and motors is 3/8 inch; Type 3L. 3L belts are available from every industrial sewing machine dealer in the World. In the USA they come marked in inch designations. In Canada and non-SAE countries, they are marked in metric notation. Type 3L v-belts can be purchased in one inch increments, from the low 30s through the high 60s and beyond. I have a peg full of them in my shop, ranging from 38" through 59". If your previous 46" belt was too long after installing a smaller motor pulley, order a 44" 3L v-belt. Or, remove the C-clip from one side of your existing round belt, cut off the necessary amount to get a tight fit, punch a 1/16" hole about 1/4" in from the new end, push the open end of the clip through the hole and use your pliers to squeeze it down.

There are a lot of times when I use a size smaller on the bottom. One in particular is on 9 - 10 oz belts when I add decorative edge stitching. I'll use 207 on the bottom and 277 on top. Once I get to a quarter inch I usually run the same size on both sides, for added strength per stitch. This is especially true for the holsters I sew. I go out of my way to tell the customer how many pounds of strength each stitch possesses.

I almost always use the same size thread on top and bottom.

That narrow space only exists for about 5 inches or so. Then, it begins to expand as you progress down the arm.

Have you read the specs on the Cowboy CB3200? It's much less costly than a 4500 and sews up to 1/2 inch with very heavy thread..

Another reason for the price difference is that the Juki LU-1508 series is a premium, current line. While the straight N sub-model can be had for as little as $2200, some of that series sell for over $3,000, depending on the bells and whistles attached to it. The 1508NH is just one step down from the CB3200 in capacity (it uses a longer needle system).They are made in Japan and parts are readily available. Also, they have a unique rectangular feed dog motion that helps maintain matched feeding on the top and bottom, no matter what material you are sewing. The Adler 467 will do about the same as the 1508N, but sewing over 3/8 inch all the time will be running it at its limit. Both have larger than standard bobbins and hooks. Being an older machine, make sure the Adler wasn't rode hard and put up wet.

I did a little searching and found one dealer that shows that system 176x1 is the same as the commonly available DBx1, which is also sold as 16x257 and 1738. I use those needles in my serger and my Singer 31-15. They have a thin shank and are quite short. I know that Bob has DBx1 because I bought a bunch of them a year or so ago for my 31-15. They are available in ballpoint, sharps and leather points. The worst thing would be you might have to move the needle bar slightly if the new needles are longer or shorter than type 176x1. I may have read that information wrong. It appeared to be a needle matching chart, but isn't. So, DBx1 might not fit after all.

Call Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, one of our advertisers, at: 866-362-7397. Bob Kovar will either have those particular needles, or an equivalent system.

Sometimes, when I am only able to hold onto the top thread tail, the knot will get pulled to the top on the first stitch. Other times, the knot may be entirely on the bottom. Holding back both threads equally almost always centers the starting knot.

I was unable to find your blog, or the article you mentioned. As for prices for the various machinery, it is hard to say anything without having a knowledge of that particular industry. I'm sure they cost a lot more than most of us could conceive. What does one ask for a used machine that sold originally for $12,000? Have you considered hiring an auctioneer? He would place ads and arrange for the location of the sale. Auctions can be a winner or loser for the seller. But, if you list these huge machines on eBay, people may want them packed up and shipped. If you advertise on Craigslist, only people in your area may see the ad. Or, you can place an ad in our Marketplace, under Sewing Equipment, Used. List them all, with good details about each machine, then outline your desired prices, or ask for offers. Another line of thought is to show the price you paid, or retail value for everything and accept a certain percentage for the entire lot. If the buyer removes them you are so much further ahead.

I can't tell you if anything is missing based on your photos. You'd need to do close ups of the various areas. As for capacities, I have the same model in my shop and can tell you that they cannot exceed 1/4 inch, or 6mm on your side of the pond. The thread size should be kept at T70 bonded thread.

The LU-563 is a standard upholstery class walking foot machine, from the late 1980s and early 1990s. I owned two of them from 1987 through 1992. They were quite happy sewing with #138 bonded thread, using a #23 leather point needle, all day long (keep it oiled!). They were somewhat less happy when I tried sewing with #207 thread, using a #24 leather point needle. Don't try using larger thread than 207, or a larger needle than #24. Every industrial sewing machine dealer in the World stocks system 135x16 (leather) and 135x17 (round/sharp) walking foot needles. I buy mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines who advertises here (see banners). All of the dealers advertising on LW.N have these needles.

Masters Contact cement (for shoe soles) dries really quickly. Apply one or two light coats, 10 minutes apart, wait 10 minutes, smack em together and sew. If tape or glue is a problem, run your thread through a lube pot filled with liquid silicon.

Where is the for sale listing? I'll cop a boo at it and see what help I can offer.

Learn to hold back both top and bottom threads for the first couple of stitches. This is a common mistake made by newbies. Some, if not most industrial sewing machines will pull too much top thread under the work, and even into the shuttle, if you fail to hold back the starting threads. The only machines in my shop and at home that don't do this are my two 29k patchers and my Pfaff serger. Every other machine I own demands that I hold back the starting threads for at least two or three stitches, or there is trouble.

No, but I'd be really interested in if if the price is nice. I would prefer a lockstitch machine with transverse feed, but can't locate one used. Transverse feed machines sew up and down the cylinder arm, rather than across it. They can be used to sew pants legs, sleeves, long cylindrical bags, rifle cases, etc. I am guessing that the Puritan, being a needle and awl chainstitch machine, only sews up the arm. But, I could be wrong.

Welting feet are measured to cover the wrapped piping, not just the piping cord. You must take the thickness of the covering material into consideration. I keep piping feet in my walking foot drawer in every commonly available diameter from 3/16" to 1/2". Mind you, because of the extra height of the welting presser feet, I sometimes have to raise the needle bar 3/16" and change to a system 190 needle to sew piping 1/2" across. Happily, I don't use these feet very much any more.

Ah yes, the old mislaid Vislon zipper tooth ploy! The Russians used them to sabotage Leica 35mm cameras used by our guys during the Zipper Wars.

Flip the head back on the table, or the support peg if your table has one. Check the gears that drive the hook to see if debris got stuck between the teeth.

Upholstery class machines are limited to sewing no higher than about 3/8 of an inch (10mm). You will need one that is equipped with a 3:1 speed reducer to multiply the punching power and slow it down. I recommend a Family Sew FS-550 servo motor, which is what I use now. You will probably need to use #23 or 24 leather point needles to pierce horse tack. The pressure spring may need to be replaced with one that has stronger coils. This is to hold down the thick and hard leather as the needle ascends. A better machine for breast collars, halters and bridles would be a Cowboy CB3200. It sews an honest 1/2 inch, with very thick thread (#346) and already has a servo and speed reducer. This machine is a step up from the upholstery class and is related to the big 441 types, but with less material thickness capacity. A lot of people are buying them rather than the larger machines, like the Cowboy CB4500 that I use. But, I sometimes sew 7/8" thick holsters. The machine is about 60% more than you wanted to spend, but may well be worth looking into. If all this is cornfusing, know that when I began sewing leather it took me two years of buying wrong machines before I found a real leather sewing machine that could sew thick holsters, bridles, reins and the like. Also, good leather sewing machines back then cost at least twice as much as they do now.

I buy from Cobra Steve also. He is a great guy and a knowledgeable sewing machine dealer. People new to this section of the forum sometimes don't realize the quality of the dealers who support us and lurk here. Shout out to Gregg at Keystone Sewing, who, altho not an advertiser, is a regular contributor also. Ronny at Techsew is a big time supporter of Leatherworker.net. Nick at Nick-O-Sew is our newest supporting dealer.

Look for an "upholstery" class walking foot machine (triple feed), with a large hook. Typical brands are Consew, Chandler, Singer (discontinued), Juki, Seiko and others. Less expensive machines are made in China. Better quality machines are Japanese and a few were made in the USA (old Singers). You can buy a brand new Chandler 406RB walking foot machine for about $1000. It, along with the others in this class, can use up to #138 bonded thread, which has 22 pounds breaking strength. That is good enough for horse blankets and chaps.

I regard Cowboy Bob as a personal, as well as professional friend! He is my "go to guy" when I need parts and accessories for sewing machines, or another odd machine. Now, if he could find me a transverse feed machine...