rmr

Blue Duck how do I find his contact info- I cant find on the site a company named leather works- probably me doing something wrong Thanks RMR

Question for you AndyL1 The 2 eye hooks, that attach the springs to the cross bar ( the bar attached to the base of the hydraulic pump) - the ends pass all the way through the cross bar- do yours extend all the way through the 1/2" steel plate attached to the bottom side of the cross bar- or did you countersink them into the plate- or something else. Thanks RMR

Thanks for the info. FYI or anyone else thinking about making one of these. Right now Harbor Freight has their 12 ton shop press on sale for 100- they have many locations and if you live near one you can pick it up so no shipping charges. I made a few calls around and found a local welder who will weld two 1/2" steel plates on the cross bars( 13x13") - one top and one on bottom for about 50 total RMR.

thanks everyone for the input. Will look at several products mentioned. Might just line with 20z leather

thank you. I'm guessing by the time I buy the stuff to cut the post, and welding equipment - not counting my time- and assuming I don't mess something up; Im probably best off to just get one already put together. But thanks for the insight- this really helped me get a handle on what I was going to have to do to make a usable clicker press form a harbor press- nice work on yours RMR

thank you

been thinking about getting some clicking dies made for some of the components of cases that I use over and over again- to speed the process up a bit and create nicer looking/more consistent pieces. Because I'm a reeeaaaaal small operation- more of a hobby that pays for itself( or at least I think), I don't want to invest at this time in a 2K + clicker press. Speed isn't a real issue either- Im guessing anything will be faster and more consistent that cutting some of these pieces by hand. Would like some feed back from anyone who has one, or experience with one of the 12 ton Shop presses made by Texas custom dies- do you like it, any issues ( other than speed) ???? I fortunately live in Dallas Tx so I can drive over to pick it up and save shipping cost Would also like any insight to anyone who has purchased one of the automotive 12 ton presses( harbor freight and other companies) and then welded on steel plates, and added poly board. I have thought about going the later to save some $$, but then as I start thinking about paying 120+40 for shipping for the press, then have to purchase steel plates, poly board ( another 120) , + find someone to weld the stuff together ( probably 50) ..... is it going to be more of a pain in the butt and in the long run only save me 100$ or so. Has anyone gone this route and if so would you do it again or just get one already welded and ready to go Thanks RMR

been thinking about getting some clicking dies made for some of the components of cases that I use over and over again- to speed the process up a bit and create nicer looking/more consistent pieces. Because I'm a reeeaaaaal small operation- more of a hobby that pays for itself( or at least I think), I don't want to invest at this time in a 2K + clicker press. Speed isn't a real issue either- Im guessing anything will be faster and more consistent that cutting some of these pieces by hand. Would like some feed back from anyone who has one, or experience with one of the 12 ton Shop presses made by Texas custom dies- do you like it, any issues ( other than speed) ???? I fortunately live in Dallas Tx so I can drive over to pick it up and save shipping cost Would also like any insight to anyone who has purchased one of the automotive 12 ton presses( harbor freight and other companies) and then welded on steel plates, and added poly board. I have thought about going the later to save some $$, but then as I start thinking about paying 120+40 for shipping for the press, then have to purchase steel plates, poly board ( another 120) , + find someone to weld the stuff together ( probably 50) ..... is it going to be more of a pain in the butt and in the long run only save me 100$ or so. Has anyone gone this route and if so would you do it again or just get one already welded and ready to go Thanks RMR

Thanks Bob S That is a great description of how you do it Wil get on looking for the "toys" RMR

I have had several individuals ask me to place their initials on some of the cases I make for them. Up till now I have never done that- but feel I at least need to look into it more. The cases I make would require letters in the 5/8- 3/4" or so size to look appropriate. I have seen the craft tool stamp set offered by tandy and weaver. My general impression is that most craft tools are of relatively low quality so I have been very hesitant about ordering a set. After reading several comments by others on this forum regarding their alphabet stamp set - that concern seems to be true and justified. What are my other options- does anyone else make a good quality alphabet stamp set- ideally in script letters, or is this something most others will use a swivel knife to create?? Thanks RMR

Thank you oltoot. I appreciate your input

I have been considering getting a Campbell - randall needle and awl machine. I noticed on the used section of this forum there is a landis #3 for sale- about 1/2 of what a Campbell-randall machine will be. Is there any substantial difference between these two machines??? Thanks RMR

AustinB might check out the used section of forum- there is a guy selling a cobra 3 machine with stand, accessories... 1600- its only 500 more than what several others are selling used tippman boss machines for- might look at it real hard. Not sure if its still available or not- nothing was said about it being sold good luck in your pursuit of a machine RMR

I have had the same problem with the clear-lac. Looks great for a while then cracks. I use Bob Parks method - except now I don't apply the clear lac at the end

I purchased one 5-6 or so years ago. Used it for about 6-7 months- too many dropped stitches, pain in the butt to use, unpredictable, getting tension set can be a nightmare, if your sewing where you have to turn the project a lot while trying to also hold it as well as pull down on the handle- well lets just say you may need 3+ hands. I sold mine and purchased a cobra 4. Best decision I have made. The cobra is extremely easy to use, worked right out of the box after about 15minutes of set up. Doesn't drop stitches, easy to handle... can't say enough good things about it. Customer service with Steve is second to none. I garenteee you if you purchased both machines - in about 1 weeks time you will be wanting to get rid of the tippman. The only good reason to get one - at least in my opinion is its portability. If that is important then get the tippman- otherwise get a cobra or similar machine. Even if funds are tight- save your $$ for another year and then get the cobra- you will be money ahead. There have been several guys selling cobras - used - at very reasonable prices RMR

Been considering purchasing a rebuild Campbell- Randall ( got the name and spelling correct this time) lock stitch machine. I currently use a Cobra 4 and love it for 90% of what I do- I predominantly make shotgun cases, shooting bag cases, fly rod cases ...... The reason Im looking at adding an needle and awl machine are 3 fold: 1) when stitching thicker sections of leather( 4-5 layers of 5-6oz latigo) I find that the stitch line on the back side of the cobra machine is not always as straight as the stitch line on the upper surface- suspect its due to needle deflection as it passes through multiple layers of leather 2) I would desire the stitch line on the bottom and upper surface of the leather to look exactly the same ( at least where the stitch line can bee seen) 3) Have a few case designs that would require a box stitch - and its my understanding with an attachment - this may be one of the few machines out there capable of doing this I have recognized that I will probably need to change thread types if I get the Campbell- Randall Machine (polyester instead of nylon). Im fine with that once I found out several colors of polyester are available. My biggest concern- and the reason for the thread- I read on a previous thread on this site about how finicky these machines can be. For comparison - I found my cobra ready to go right out of the box with almost no adjustments needed on my part- and I have had the machine for 4+ years. My knowledge on how sewing machines operate is extremely limited- I had my concerns after reading the thread that the Campbell machine will require a lot more understanding of the machine in order to constantly make adjustments to thread tension.... So I would like to know what kind of a learning curve is the Campbell- Randall machine going to require. I recognize these are pricey machines, if they do what I need them to, without me having to spend an inordinate amount of time fooling around with- then Im fine ordering one. If these are machines best operated by someone who really understands how the machine operates..... then I might need to rethink my game plan Thanks for any insight into these machine RMR

I am wanting to make on old fashion leather satchel/briefcase for a friend of mine. Planning on using some Horween leather. I have noticed on some of the nicer cases out there- that on the inside dividers, the makers use a combination of leather and a synthetic nylon looking cloth-like material. What is the nylon cloth like material called and is there a source for it - I have never seen anything like it when I go to the fabric stores with my wife- but I also haven't asked Thanks RMR

I just recently received a pair of boat shoes made from a company called Gokey- I believe they now sell only to Orvis. The leather is termed " oil tanned leather". It has a very unique texture, feel and look to it. I would like to get some of this for some shotgun cases I make. Anyone know who produces the leather used in Gokey shoes?? Thanks RMR

I answered my own question- looked at the Campbell web site and saw the Deer colored polyester thread in 207 and 277- that is exactly what I was looking for

Sorry about the mis-spell of the name- I should have caught that. Thanks for all the info- still would like to know can linen thread and or polyester thread be found in numerous different colors? Everywhere I have checked its either black or white The reason I ask -is the cases Im planning on using this machine for- I have already developed a color scheme of the leather and contrasting thread that I really don't want to change if at all possible. More specifically- Im currently using a sand /wheat thread ( off white) on my projects

Can Nylon be used in a campbell-bostitch awl and needle machine??? Been considering getting one and then somewhere I thought I remembered someone saying you could only use cotton or polyester thread- is that true?? If so, are there companies that sell different colors of polyester thread in 207 or 277 - other than white and black? Thanks RMR

Looking to buy a used but well maintained awl and needle Campbell Bosworth Lockstitch sewing machine. Let me know if you know anyone think of parting with theirs Regards RMR

hi wiz I saw that on their web site but they didn't/ haven't had any machines listed- maybe I need to contact them by phone instead of just looking at their web site RMR

I have been tossing around the idea about trying to buy a used Campbell Bosworth Lockstitch machine. Im guessing a gently used machine doesn't come around all that often as I rarely see one being advertised. Is there somewhere you could recommend I look for one- have been watching used sewing machines for sale on this forum for a while with no luck I currently have a cobra 3 and it works very well- but for some of the cases I make I would like to have a lockstitch machine to give me a stitch line that looks similar on both sides on the leather piece Im sewing. Thanks RMR

good point- will look at woodcraft RMR