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rmr

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Everything posted by rmr

  1. I have been applying tuff vote to products using a damp sponge- sometimes results not as nice as I want. Is there a better way to apply it- i.e. like with a spey bottle. Also can it be applied over a product like ausie conditioner??Thanks
  2. Take your time and keep watching the used sewing machine section- there are quite often individuals selling machines like the cowboy 3500, and cobra 3 or 4's either because they no longer use them or want to move up- can get some good deals on used equipment if you are patient
  3. Sheridan Leather in WY has them in periodically. Can be made in hardwoods that look as nice as they function- give them a call
  4. That looks like bison hide to me- which naturally comes with a pebble grain
  5. Have been placing a veeeeery light coat of tuff-coat from weaver Leather on some leather steelhead/salmon fly wallets I have recently made. Been applying it with a damp sponge and what I feel is a very light coat. Sometimes it comes out fine and other times I get streaks. Would like some recommendations of what I should be ( or not be) doing to prevent this - and / or how others apply this product Thanks RMR
  6. Have been placing a veery light coat of tuff-coat from weaver Leather on some leather steelhead/salmon fly wallets I have recently made. Been applying it with a damp sponge and what I feel is a very light coat. Sometimes it comes out fine and other times I get streaks. Would like some recommendations of what I should be ( or not be) doing to prevent this - and / or how others apply this product Thanks RMR
  7. For one reason or another- I had purchased bag coat several years ago. I was going to place it on some veg tanned leather that has been stained saddle brown with an oil based leather dye. I like how the bag coat darkens the stained leather just a little more. My question is: what is the intended purpose of bag kote?? Is it to darken leather, is it a conditioner or is it a top coat? Do I need to still apply some form of top coat over it?? Thanks
  8. For one reason or another- I had purchased bag coat several years ago. I was going to place it on some veg tanned leather that has been stained saddle brown with an oil based leather dye. I like how the bag coat darkens the stained leather just a little more. My question is: what is the intended purpose of bag kote?? Is it to darken leather, is it a conditioner or is it a top coat? Do I need to still apply some form of top coat over it?? Thanks
  9. LOL Will do- if my wife ever finds out how much the machine was- you may be getting it sooner than you thought:)
  10. So I made the plunge a few months back and decided to get a campbell- randall lock stitching machine. Picked it up in Yoakum TX several weeks ago- very impressive machine, makes an incredible tight stitch. The guys ( Dan, Miles and Connie Nagle as well as their staff) were wonderful people and spent a ton of time showing me how to use the machine- can't say enough good things about them! So I have been playing around with the machine getting use to the feel and noise it makes ( a little different from my 441 clone) before I start one of my case projects. I got the machine to specifically sew portions of my cases that have 3-4 thicknesses of 5-6 latigo leather, and that the stitch line can be seen on both sided of the case- so I need the bottom stitch line to be just as straight as the top stitch line ( which I was having a little trouble achieving with my 441 clone - even though it stitches everything else just fine) I know the Campbell- Randall machine doesn't have a reverse, so backstitching is a little more challenging. I haven't been able to get a back stitch that looks real nice on both the top and bottom side of the leather, or many times I cut or frey the thread with the awl......Would like any suggestions from those that use a lockstitch machine, on how they backstitch - or is it easier to just run the stitch line and then after removing the project from the machine use a harness needle and perform the backstitch by hand at the beginning and end of the stitch line Thanks for any recommendations in advance RMR
  11. mostly with a machine. Some places are hand stitched where I couldn't get machine to "fit"
  12. I uploaded these from my ipad. Will try to re- upload them from the home computer tonight- not sure why they are such a large file
  13. They are the brass end of 12 g shotgun shells ( after being fired) that were sawn off and the rivet placed through them- more for looks than anything else
  14. Just finished this range bag to hold shooting accessories. Made from bison and lined with light weight veg tan RMR
  15. making this case, and would like to use my cobra machine to sew on end panels. there is about a 3/4 "overhang edge- see picture- not sure what you call it- I don't think its a gusset. with the standard plate on my cobra machine I cannot make the curve in the 2 corners to sew. Is this where I should use the stirrup attachment?? If so- there were several threads I saw a while back( can't find them - so sorry for asking again) that had multiple different recommendations about tighten tension on the needle thread tension, others I thought said you had to do something with the bobbin thread tension- so what is it. If I attache the stirupp plate and sew on some scrap leather, the bottom side of the stitches look loose?? I have attached some photos
  16. Frans I had the same problem a few years back- was very frustrating at first- - I posted on here and several guys including Steve at Cobra contacted me and recommended I double check the bolt holding the pulley wheel to its shaft- as it was probably slightly loose and had allow3d the pulley wheel to shift upwards ever so slightly resulting in the tension on the belt to be reduced and causing the needle to stop/stall in the middle of thick layers of leather. So I checked it out when I got home from work that night- they were spot on- tightened up the bolt - after pulling the pulley wheel assembly downward about 1/4 " to place more tension on the belt- never had the problem since then RMR
  17. You will love it- excellent machine, easy to set up, very quick and short learning curve and Im guessing within a short time you will be sewing like you have had it for years
  18. I would also add- before I glue the 2 pieces together, I hit the edges with whatever color dye Im going to use first. It seems to me that once the barge cement contact the un-dyed leather it creates a barrier for future dye to be absorbed properly. By dying first- the dye bleeds into the leather a bit, and after the pieces are glues , sanded and edged, burnished - I hit it again with the dye and everything comes out the same color with no line. Then I apply the paraffin wax and burnish again.
  19. Thanks for the info and sources. The ones on ofrei.com are a little two high end. I also found a web site called strapguy.com. He will sell his buckles- some nice stuff there also RMR
  20. I use a fair amount of buffalo on shotgun cases and shell cases- so I know your pain. Not sure what the application of your leather is for- but in mine- I will glue some 2-3oz veg tan lining leather to the inside of the buffalo - as a liner but also to give it some stiffness/ hold its shape better- then if I need a straight line I cut it and the line comes out perfectly straight- I use a sharp 3" head knife. Cut the lining leather to the exact size shape I want- then glue to buffalo, then trim buffalo to lining leather. Not sure this will work for your application- but has worked well for me
  21. do you have a picture of the piece in brown. Can you tell me the actual type of horween leather- Dublin, Essex, .......
  22. I would like to try and make a watch band - really do not know what Im doing but want to try. Need some recommendations on where to go to get the buckle. I want a decent one- not concerned about finding the cheapest thing- want quality. One other question- when it says a 20mm buckle- does that mean the inside width of the strap- i.e. a 20mm wide strap would use a 20mm buckle?? Thanks RMR
  23. I would like to try and make a watch band - really do not know what Im doing but want to try. Need some recommendations on where to go to get the buckle. I want a decent one- not concerned about finding the cheapest thing- want quality. One other question- when it says a 20mm buckle- does that mean the inside width of the strap- i.e. a 20mm wide strap would use a 20mm buckle?? Thanks RMR
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