rmr

What is a good source for a small rub stick/creaser made from cocobollo??? Thank you RMR

Hi Barbiesdude I did find a picture of the Hansen cutter I couldnt tell- are the blades replacable razer blades?? Or are they blades that you have to manually sharpen?? Thanks RMR

do you have a picture, and how much would you want for it?? Could you also tell me what angles it will bevel the lace at Thank you RMR

I am new to braiding and cutting lace- so I know very little about the topic. Im currently making a saddle for my daughter nad have gotten to the part where I need to lace the back halves of the skirts with kangeroo lace together. What are sources for good quality lace cutters/bevelers?? So far the only 2 I have found are the Lace master and another one made by y-knot. Any recommendations would be appreciated - if these are the two best ones to choose from I would love to hear any input Thanks RMR

Hi Bruce I did talk to Kevin at Double K leather. They currently dont have any bows, and the guy that made them - evidently isnt currently making any more- something about cocobola wood being toxic????? Kevin was going to call him back and see if he can make them out of another wood species. Will let you know what I find out RMR

Does anyone know of someone who is currently making or selling saddle seat slicks - or as some call them a bow or seat stick??? The company that bought Hidecrafters has one- but per their web site its onlt 10" long. That seems short to me Thanks RMR

Im currently making ( or trying to make) a saddle for my daughter. Lookat at the Jerimiah Watt dvd about 10 times, and read every book I can find on it. So far going ok. Im now at the point where I need to do some sewing- skirts and cantle back. I cant find any referrence on the weight of thread to use. On most of my other leather work ( shotgun cases and flyrod cases) I have used 277 size thread. Im guessing that is too thin to use on a saddle????? If so would it be best to get 346 or 415 size thead? Thank you for any advice RMR

I have gotten to the point where there are about 5-6 shapes ( moderate amount of curves per piece) I use over and over in the manufacturing of gun cases that I am considering having a cutting die made and getting a clicker. Im a pretty small operation- more of a hobby than anything so Im not looking at a high production clicker. Speed isnt the most important thing either- but any die I suspect will be quicker and neater than what Im doing. I also dont want something that will take up a huge amount or room. I have been looking at 2 systems over the yeras but would like any positive or negative feedback on the two. Weavers hand operated, swivel away, clicker which is now on sale 25% off ( at 750), or Texas Custom Dies has a manual 12 ton clicker for 450, but I think I need to buy a clicker bed for it which If Im correct will put the cost up in the range of 550-600. any thoughts, or recommendations?? RMR

I build bamboo fly rods and have built several leather covered tubes for some of the guys I have build rods for. PVC is thick and no lighter than aluminum. Go to landmark rod company- you can buy the aluminum tubes in whatever diameter( 1,2,3 or 4 rod tubes) and lengths you want. At one time I was able to buy tubes that had bedd mared on the outside and they sold them to me at a greately reduced price- who cares you are covering it with leather. The aluminum tubes covered in leather is the best method in my opinion- strength, thin walled, and as light as anthing else. bood luck RMR

there is currently a used set for 300 being offered- might jump on it if you are still interested it wont be around for long. I bought a new set several months ago and have watched 2 times- very well worth the $$ - there are a lot of little things you can understand better watching being done as opposed to trying to read about it and fill in the gaps RMR

thank you for the reply- but I purchased a new set about 2 months ago RMR

After watching the J Watt DVD set several times I have been thinking about getting a Bob Douglas re-conditioned heal shaver for the groundseat work. I didnt realize that they came in several sizes. What size do you use the most as I cant affoerd at this time to get more than 1- options are a # 4,5 or 6 Thanks for your opinion RMR

Have a question about some Bison leather I have been using to make gun cases and shell bags. Once completed I apply 1 coat of neets foot oil and then several days later 1 coat of Montana pitch blend ( beeswax, pine tar pitch and mink oil). Both oils penetrate very well and absorb into the bison. I have a guy I have made a case for and after a while ( months ) the bison will develope a whitish material on it( attached photo). I have looked at the hide I took it from and there is no whitish color to it. I have asked if the case ever got wet to see if this is mold- havnt heard back but I suspect the case has not gotten wet ( the bison was on the inside of the lid of the case and the rest of the outside of the case-made from latigo- was treated the same way and has no whitish material on it). This occured last fall and I had him allpy some oil( I think he used neets foot oil - but trying to find out- and said it disappeared immediately, but now its back 4-5 months later. I also wondered if the case has been kept in a cold place which would cause wax to get thick and crystalize- be lives in up state NY I suspect its cystalization of either the bees wax or the pine tar pitch. Any one ever seen this??? Why only on the Bison and not on the Latigo leather ??? Is there any solution for this??? Im going to post this in several places hoping someone has an answer for me Thanks for any insight RMR

Have a question about some Bison leather I have been using to make gun cases and shell bags. Once completed I apply 1 coat of neets foot oil and then several days later 1 coat of Montana pitch blend ( beeswax, pine tar pitch and mink oil). Both oils penetrate very well and absorb into the bison. I have a guy I have made a case for and after a while ( months ) the bison will develope a whitish material on it( attached photo). I have looked at the hide I took it from and there is no whitish color to it. I have asked if the case ever got wet to see if this is mold- havnt heard back but I suspect the case has not gotten wet ( the bison was on the inside of the lid of the case and the rest of the outside of the case-made from latigo- was treated the same way and has no whitish material on it). This occured last fall and I had him allpy some oil( I think he used neets foot oil - but trying to find out- and said it disappeared immediately, but now its back 4-5 months later. I also wondered if the case has been kept in a cold place which would cause wax to get thick and crystalize- be lives in up state NY I suspect its cystalization of either the bees wax or the pine tar pitch. Any one ever seen this??? Why only on the Bison and not on the Latigo leather ??? Is there any solution for this??? Im going to post this in several places hoping someone has an answer for me Thanks for any insight RMR

I think a 1/2 " thick will be just fine

Tim I have a second shape that I might also want - if you are up for it Let me know. I can mail or fax original tracings I have made of both shapes . I will need all the edges rounded off, and would prefer this made of 1/2-3/4 material- Im thinking the thicker the better. What do you think they would run? Thanks RMR

Tim I attached a scan of what I was thinking of regarding shape

I will try and draw a picture and post it latter tonight RMR

Tim My best guess watching the video is its about 11-12" long, probably about 2-3 " wide and about 1/2-3/4 thick. It is shaped somewhat like a bananna or a boomerang with a gentle convex curve on the front edge and a has a concave back edge, the two sides are also rounded with sightly differrent radiuses (sp??) - it looks to me like all 4 edges can be used for differrent places on a saddle. All the edges are rounded off I can certainly draw what it looks like RMR

Does anyone know of somone who makes an acrylic leather slick for seat work - like Jermiah Watt uses on his video?? If not is there anyone else out there that would be interested in one? I found a glass store here in Dallas that will make them from 1/2-5/8" thick plexiglass if they are provided a shape to go by- which will be easy to do. I suspect there will be a minimum order reqiured to have them order the material. Thanks RMR

I wanted to personally thank and acknowledge Steve at the Leather Machine Company who after reading a post I had made pertaining to some problems I was having with regards to getting my cobra 4 machine to sew some thick leather- he not only sent me a note but also followed up with a call ( he initiated the call not me) to walk me through trouble shooting my problem. Now that is what I call customer service that you dont see every day. In about 1 minutes he told me what adjustment I needed to make to a belt and I was off and running again. I have purchased this cobra 4 machine, the electronic needle positioning system and a beatifully refurbished Pilgram leather splitter from Steve over the past 3 years and have always felt that he is a stand up guy, takes great care of his customers not only when they purchase a machine from him, but whenever they need help even years after the sale- he will be thetre in the long run for you. He is always very friendly, helpful and knowledable about his products. When I need a piece of equipment for leather working- Steve has been, and always will be my go to guy first. Anyone out there looking to get a leather sewing machine- I would personnaly recommend Steve and his compnay in a New York minute !!!!

I have a set of paper patterns Im planning on using to make my first saddle. Assumming this goes OK and I decide to make anothewr one- I want to have the patterns on something more durrable than paper. I would love to hear what others are using for a material to create more permanent patterns from Thansk for any advice RMR

Thanks Wizcraft and "Cobra" Steve I lowered the speed reducer about 1/4" & re-tightened up the 2 bolts holding the flywheel to the shaft- I THINK THAT WAS THE TICKET!!!!!!!! It now seems to be doing just fine. I feel a litle embarresed that I couldnt figure that one out on my own. RMR On a side note: I wanted to personally thank Steve at the Leather Machine Company who after reading my post this morning, sent me a note as well as personally called me ( he initiated the call not me) to walk me through trouble shooting my problem. Now that is what I call customer service that you dont see every day. I should have just called Steve first on this one as he knew exactly what to do. I have purchased this cobra 4 machine, the electronic needle positioning system and a beatifully refurbished Pilgram leather splitter from Steve over the past 3 years and have always felt that he is a stand up guy, takes great care of his customers not only when they purchase a machine from him, but whenever they need help even years after the sale. He is always very friendly, helpful and knowledable about his products as well as other leather machinery that he may not have but will find it for you ( thats how I ended up with the Pilgram Splitter- I had searched near and far for months trying to find one on the internet and always came up empty handed. I was ordering an attachment for my Cobra machine and just happened to mention to Steve about looking for a leather splitter - 2 days later out of the blue he called me at work and he had gone out on his own and located 2 splitters and gave me the specs on each one- needless to say I bought one). When I need a piece of equipment for leather working- Steve has been, and always will be my go to guy first. Anyone out there looking to get a leather sewing machine- I would personnaly recommend Steve and his compnay in a New York minute - and that means a lot comming from a Texan:yes: Steve I owe you a beer and a staek for help on this one RMR

Hi Wizcrafts and Cobra Steve Thanks for the help and recommendations- I hadnt thought about that as a possiblity. I will go home after work tonight and make some adjustments to the belt. I will let you know how everything goes - Im guessing that is exactly what is going on. RMR Again Thanks for the prompt reply and advice!!!!!!

I make shotgun cases and range bags using either latigo(5/6oz) or bison hide(8/9oz). I have a cobra 4 machine that I have had about 3 years now and it has always functioned well. I use 277 thread and a # 25 needle. The tension on the machine was set before I got it and I have never messed with it since it was set for the thread diameter I use on all my projects. The machine is oiled regulary. The thread is passed through all eyelets and tensioners correctly ( I saw the previous thread where someone was having problems possible due to running thread through guides 2 times) My problem: I am finding that as I sew - often the needle will stop, on the down stroke, as it is going through the leather - the fly wheel turns but the needle wont advance through the leather( or goes only partially through it) - almost like the leather is stopping its advancement. Sometimes I can rotate the wheel by hand forward and backwards to get the needle to penetrate the leather. Depending on what Im going I may be sewing 2 -4 layers of leather together ( total thickness of all layers 1/4-1/2" generally) - which this machine should handle. Sometimes the machine gets hung up on 2 layers of leather other times its on the thicker 1/2 " stuff. I tried putting new needles on- same thing , and the needles always seem real sharp. I have gotten to the point on some of the thicker pieces that I will use a pricking iron to creat a hole spacing pattern and then use a hand awl to partially go through the lether layers and then run it through the machine - which often hepls. The things I have been wondering about: 1) Is this a tensioning problem??? When it works the stitching always looks fine 2) is this a machine problem??? 3) I glue using Barge cement- I have wondered is the glus getting to hard and creating a barrier for the needle to pass through??? 4) Is the bison hide just to tough for the neddle to go through?? Even though I have had times it does the same on latigo Any ideas out there?? Thanks RMR