rmr

Keith the foot that is angled- was that something you created- or is that a part Cambell Randall sells?? I also noticed that there is a guide ( to right of needle and awl) - do you feel that is important to have when trying to use the machine to box stitch?? I'm guessing you use it to "push" the work against while stitching RMR

this is an item Im tying to sew on a machine- I have the attachments sold by Campbell Randal- just haven't tried them yet

Thank you. How difficult do you find it using your machine to do a box stitch??

Hi Oltoot I'm still having a hard time envisioning what you did- no rush but would still love to see a picture RMR

Its burgundy latigo ( weaver- chain 5-6oz) - then over dyed with a light brown figreings oil dye. Montana pitch blend was to top coat/water proofer

Just finished a spey rod case ( to hold 3-4 spey- double handed - fly rods). Center of case is 3.5" diameter aluminum tubing RMR

Hi Oltoot would love to see a picture of what you did to the presser foot- I do a fair amount of box stitching ( by hand right now) on cases I make- looking to try to use my Campbell Randall machine to speed things up RMR

So after backtacking a few stitches and cutting the thread off flush with the leather I usually add a drop or two of super glue to the stitch holes to "weld" the thread together so it wont pull out in the future. I wipe off any extra glue almost immediately after its applied. So far this has worked quite well for me- but I had another leatherworker tell me this is a bad idea - didn't explain why just said was a bad idea. So what do you do??? I have not tried using a "hot" cutting knife to singe the end of the thread but have wondered how effective that technique is. I have seen enough items that nothing was done and over a period of time stitches start pulling apart and the ends of the thread start sticking out from the end of the project. RMR

I think we all had longer hair in the late 70's - was the norm in college

Hi Guys Thanks for the awesome ideas. After your AHA moment - I took it one step further- why not get brass machine screws/bo;ts at any local hardware store ( or whatever other metal that matches the buckles on the particular briefcase) a little larger in diameter than what the final products needs to be- turn down the threads on a lathe to the final size, cut a channel to the width and depth needed to accommodate the leather strip- could round the edges or even add a rope knurl if wanted. Then drill out the center to the diameter needed, and finally cut a slot in the top with a Dremel tool to slip it around the bottom of the case. Several holes, as mentioned could be created to allow actually sewing the "foot" to the case. The only part Im still thinking about is how to crimp so its uniform- will probably just be a pair of pliers RMR

I don't remember specifically- was on the internet- may have been ebay???? Was 5+ years ago. I believe at one time the Tipman co sold them- might give them a call

Hi Cseeger- nice prototype. On the original picture- the brass appears to have been turned over enough so that there is a smooth junction between the leather and the brass- there is not a stair step from the leather to the brass- may be hard to see from this picture. Its a possibility this was a thicker piece of brass in which a channel was cut into it to accept the leather??

Trox I tried that on my cobra 441 clone- didn't work out so well for me- but it could be me?? DDahl- yes the bottom side of the stitch looks much nicer that with the 441 clones I have one of those also). In addition to being nicer looking- the stitch line is just as straight as the top stitch line- on my 441 clone- especially when stitching thicker leather- its not uncommon for the stitching on the upper side to look wonderful- nice and straight- but on the bottom side there is fluctuations and the stitch line is not so straight- I have been told its due to the needle deflecting slightly as it goes through thick leather. At least for me- there has been more of a learning curve when using the Cambell - Randall machine, when I got the 441 many years ago within a few weeks I felt very comfortable stitching curves, straight lines..... The Campbell machine takes longer to get that comfort level. I love and use both machines- often for different applications. If Im doing something where both sides of the stitch line are going to be visible and its important for them to be straight- I use the Campbell. If the bottom stitch isn't going to be visible and there are curves and such- I will use the cobra 441

Has anyone had much experience( good or bad) using their needle and awl machine to perform a box( corner stitch) ?? I have a Campbell Randall lock stitch machine- bought the attachment to use it for that purpose( corner stitch) - just haven't tried yet. Any words of advise or wisdom would be greatly appreciated Thank you in advance RMR

I just received an awl Haft made by Scott G ( slip angle is his user name) Today- its a piece of art !!! I have 4 other hafts ( 2 Bob Douglas, another custom built, and a osborne). This is hands down ( 100x) the most comfortable one I have. The slight swell at the end gives a very comfortable place to rest your thumb on - which really helps when pushing the awl through the leather. It also has a very functional, as well as aesthetically pleasing, small raised pice of nickel silver that has been placed in line with the awl blade- this allows you, by feel, to be sure that the awl blade is correctly aligned with the stitch line . There rosewood is outstanding. If you are looking for an awl haft- go no further- this is the best one I have seen and had my hands on. Scott has been a pleasure to work with and is truly a craftsman. KUDOS . He has a post/thread under "items for sale- hand tools- leather working. You won't be sorry for looking at his thread- pictures are also on the thread of his product. Im one happy "leather worker" camper tonight thanks to Scotts haft!!! Bob R

I just received my awl Haft from Scott Today- its a piece of art !!! I have 4 other hafts( 2 Bob Douglas, another custom built, and a osborne). This is hands down ( 100x) the most comfortable one I have. The slight swell at the end gives a very comfortable place to rest your thumb on - which really helps when pushing the awl through the leather. It also has a very functional, as well as aesthetically pleasing, small raised pice of nickel silver that has been placed in line with the awl blade- this allows you, by feel, to be sure that the awl blade is correctly aligned with the stitch line . There rosewood is outstanding. If you are looking for an awl haft- go no further- this is the best one I have seen and had my hands on. Scott has been a pleasure to work with and is truly a craftsman. KUDOS Bob R

Would like to add my name to the "list" if you are still taking orders. Those look extremely well built and ergonomic in the hand- awesome work RMR

Contact leather Works- they advertise on here. Any font you send him he can make a set of stamps. I recently had 2 sets( 8mm and 11mm) set made of a script font I wanted- did a great job, turn around time was quick also

thank you for the replies- I have also been looking at the same awl from Rocky Mountain. Was also planning on using it with a Blanchard 9spi pricking iron

Getting ready to try making a watch band. Planning on using either .6mm Tiger thread or 532 or 632 Lin Cable thread. I need to get an appropriately sized awl blade- would like recommendation on size ( just guessing the smaller the better) and where to get. I currently use a Bob Douglas awl blade- but its for stitching with 207 or 277 size thread Thanks

Im getting ready to start my first briefcase as a present for a buddy of mine. I have been doing some research on the style I want to make. I found a brief case that looks to have metal "feet" at the four corners that seem to be lined with some of the same type of leather used on the case- looks to me to be a good idea , practice and sharp looking. I have looked on Ohio Travel bag to see if the metal component is comercailly available- I didn't find one on their web site. has anyone sen this and or know of a source. I have attached a photo showing what Im looking for Thanks in advance RMR

Hi Thor Thanks for the advice

thank you all for the replies- the tandy tool looks nice- especially for smaller projects- looks like for larger corners- using conduit or grinding down full circle punches may be a good way to go. I saw the ones on eBay from china. They look nice- wish I knew more about their quality, steel they were made from, sharpness of blade and ability to remain sharp

would be willing to bet if you call Steve at Cobra he will be able to send you an instruction manual.

Im looking for a quarter round ( or less) punch set- somewhat like end strap punched or round punches in order to consistant create corners on several items I would like to make. I have attached a picture of what I need the punch to do- make nice corners as in this individuals passport wallet. Is there a source for these- or do I just need to get round punches and grind off a portion of it to create my own home made quarter round punch set?? Thanks