steelhawk

Well, after spending time in TX, then going to VA for two days, if finally made it to ID. Unfortunately, the new owner is in Alaska for his daughter's wedding and it couldn't be delivered. It is at the local post office. Hopefully, he will return before it is sent back to me, probably via NY to FL, to TX and then to UT.

I think you are getting better and will continue to improve. I think more rounded corners look better. The right curves have a nice visual appeal. I got some french curves and use them during holster design. You will get better with boning, although better leather helps. My boning suddenly got lots better when I started using Hermann Oak instead of Tandy stuff.

The last word on the package is that it went from TX to VA, totally the wrong way. I am curious as to where it will be sent tonight. I know I got the address right. I have sent holsters to this customer two previous times. Lobo, I had been using regular mail, paying about 3.00, but ran out of boxes, so I had to use a USPS box and pay more for shipping. I am looking for a cheaper source of boxes, though.

I made a holster for a customer in Idaho. The customer hasn't received it and according to the tracking number, it got sent to Texas. Will the Post Office somehow fix this? What can I expect? This is the holster. I hope I don't have to remake it.

Not bad for a first holster. What does the other side look like?

I don't know what a BBQ rig is, but that is one nice holster.

I am going to make a black belt. I have some USMC black dye and some vinegaroon I made up. I made a nice black holster with the vinegaroon but can't put any pictures up since my wife is out of town with the camera until sometime tonight. My question is this: would it be ok to use vinegaroon on the belt or just dye the face with the black dye, leaving the back natural?

Those are great, Bruce. Where do you get the Black Cherry dye from? I tried an internet search and wasn't successful.

It is a nice looking belt. I hand stitched one myself a year ago, and since I have lost my mind, I am going to do another one soon. And, as for getting a bit of dye on the back when you intended it to be natural, well, all I can say is "I hate it when that happens".

The only time I had a problem with the finish on a holster was when I put it on too thickly. I used 3 coats of super sheen on my first holster and it cracked and peeled. I use two coats now, but the second coat is lighter than the first.

I started out using those as well, but switched to harness needles. They last 10 times as long as the others. In fact, I haven't ruined a harness needle, that I can remember, only lost them. I am still using needles from the original package I bought almost a year ago. I was always bending the eyes of the other ones and then they would break. As an example of their toughness, I accidently bent a harness needle almost double, but straightened it out and have stitched 4 holsters with it since. Me too. I liked the color and the Tandy guy recommended it, but when I tried to use it, well, it was messy. Wax everywhere. I used about 3 feet of it and it sits in a drawer. Eventually I will try the paper sack method of stripping the wax off and see if I can save it, since it wasn't cheap.

I made a holster for someone and he says the retention is fine with gun inserted freeley in the holster but when he puts in on a belt it is too tight. He has put in in a plastic bag overnight and done lots of draws with it, but it is still too tight. Does he need to use two plastic bags? I don't wan't to over stretch it. I have had tight holsters but they loosened up with the plastic bag or with lots of draws.

Thanks. I will finish it like my other holsters. Pictures will come later. I did get carried away with the forming, though, as I was using 6-7 oz leather and it was easier to get more detail in. I hope it doesn't affect function in the pocket. Deep down I knew I shouldn't, but I needed the practice.

I'm making a pocket holster and am just about ready to put the finish on it. I have been using Satin Sheen for my other holsters, but am wondering if this is the right finish for a pocket one. Never having made one or used one before, I don't know if it should be stiff or soft.

Yes, that make sense to me. It is how I thought they went together, but wasn't sure. I only have two sets of them right now, and didn't want to ruin one by putting it on upside down.

I want to put some pull-the-dot snaps on the belt loops for my IWB holster. I haven't set these before and don't know which way to orient the little tab on the snap, if it needs to be set in a particular way.

What if you draw the top as left-hand, but the back as right-hand and don't notice until you try to put them together? I've been using ball-point on the back but will try one with pencil and stylus on the front and see if I like it better.

I have the same problem with a side of Live Oak from Tandy Leather. I've decided that I will look at double shoulders and see if I can get 7-8 oz leather in that.

I think it looks great. I'm also not ready to do anything like this.

I cut out a pattern from what looked like a good section of leather but when I dyed it, it was covered in long scratches. I don't want to find out after I have done lots of work that a piece has bad cosmetic defects, but don't know how to detect this when it looks like a good piece, but isn't. I can't try anything out until I get home, but I thought that maybe rubbing a damp sponge over the area would show marks that my eye can't see. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Are you referring to the traditional way of using the awl, like Al Stolhman, or do you put the awl in a drill press and punch instead of drilling holes?

That's how I started. Now I am selling some and hope the punch will make things easier.

Welcome to the forum. I have made 2 avenger style holsters. I will eventually make another one, hopefully better this time. Like you, I bought a 4 prong punch and only used it once, luckily on a test piece of leather. Now I mark with the overstitch wheel on dampened leather, and since I can't see the holes, I use an awl to make each hole visible. Then I drill with a dremel tool and 1/16 bit. I tried smaller holes, but it made lacing more difficult. I just bought a drill press and next week will buy a belt sander. I am also making a burnishing tool using apple wood, but I can't get it fully round, so I will ask a co-worker who turns pens if he can finish it up for me.

I've been using the hole punch and knife method. It works, but I really didn't like it, plus it takes too long. I ordered a belt slot punch from Texas Custom Dies but haven't got it yet. I will try the chisel with a center cut first and see how I like it while I wait for my slot punch. When my $66 punch arrives I hope it makes things easier and neater.

Where do you get the white rouge. I have some dull tools as well.