Willbury

Sold/traded.

I just sent you an email in regards to shipping. Will

Hello Bruce, Would it just be shipped to your business address? Let me know and I'll get a shipping cost to you tomorrow. I'm not sure if this would interest you but I would consider a trade for a plough gauge if you had one of similar value you wanted to trade... Cheers, Will Ficner

Open to offers!

This is a Chase Pattern 8" leather splitter manufactured by W.H. Horn. I've never used it but it is complete and appears to function normally. The release leaver has been repaired at some point in it's life but does not affect function. A quick cleanup and blade sharpen and you should be good to go. $250USD plus shipping. Located in Ottawa, Canada

SOLD

Yes it's still available. I'm open to reasonable offers. PM or email me: info (at) wilboro.com

I've got an American Splitter that's surplus to my needs (I have another splitter) so I thought someone else might be able to put it to good use. It could use a nice clean-up and paint but other wise is in good functioning condition. Looking for $550US plus shipping. I'm located in Ottawa Canada.

Already done! Thanks again.

Glenn, Thank you so much you nailed it! I just tried that out it's working perfectly again, plus the reverse is locking as well. That will salvage my week of belt making, unfortunatley I lost one to this whole mishap.... Cheers, Will

I'm wondering if anyone can shed some light on a problem I just started having with my Adler. As I'm sewing the stitch length starts decreasing from the set stitch length, and gets shorter and shorter. The forward/reverse lever moves from the down position towards the middle (causing the problem). This issue just appeared this morning and I've had no problems in the past. I should also mention that in reverse it's always acted like this, you need to hold the lever in the up reverse position or it will start moving down and decreasing stitch length as well. I thought this was how the machine operated and required you to hold the lever, but with it happening on forward stitching now I'm wondering if that was the case. Anyone know whats up, before I tear into the machine?

It cuts with the wheel on the end. It skives up to about 1.5" and it can also split strap up to about 1.5" It can do quite thick leather with ease if required 12oz+

Landis 14 is sold.

I'm in Ottawa, Canada Will

Open to offers!

Looking to thin out the heard a little bit (the shops getting a bit crowded and got some new toys to replace these). I've got the following machines: Landis 20, 3 in 1 with a 12" throat. The cutting wheel needs to be replaced, but otherwise looks in good condition. $250 American, 3 in 1 again with a 12" thoat, the cutting wheel looks like it could use a sharpen but other wise looks good. $250 Landis model 14, Handcrank Skiver. In great condition and up to this point have been using it regularly in the shop. $250

I've been using a deadblow for years and it works well, but I'm always choking up on the handle. Hence the search for something with a shorter handle. I was looking at the Barry King 64oz mauls or mallets. Maybe I should get an even heavier one....

I know the topic comes up a fair bit and ultimatley comes down to personal preference, but I'm looking for a new hammer for punching exclusively: round holes, oblong holes, and belt ends. If tooling is not in the picture would you still consider a round maul vs a mallet?

One of my friends tattooed this natural veg tan Brooks saddle a few months back. Turned out pretty well. I believe he was using pen inks, rather than the standard tattoo ink to help reduce smearing. Hope this helps. <p>

Very cool thanks for the link to the video!

Ok did some serious internet digging and came across this article with a rough description of how it's done..... Not what I thought it was, there really are seams. Here are the details:

They claim it's veg tan calf leather you can see some more examples here. I've tried to look at some of their larger pictures, some of the items appear to have some small creases in them. This could be from forcing the leather into a mold, or they could be a glued seam.....

Ok back to the original question, these cases. I have come across a few more examples of them, it appears they are made from a solid piece of veg-tan, the technique is reffered to as seamless leather molding. All the makers say say about is that they are using some ancient technique, commonly used for coin purses, seems that most of the companies are based in Italy. Someone must have seen how this is done.

I haven't had too much of a problem with the colour changing. It could be a combination of things that helps prevent a change in colour. I heat pariffin wax into the wood mold before using the it the first time. I have been using Wicket and Craig tooling/molding leather maybe that contributes. The only real problem I was having was getting small bluish dots on the leather, after some sound advice from a few people on this form I determined it was from little iron filings and I got rid of them with Oxalic acid cut with water. Kevin I just had read the tread on your foam trick, amazing! I have been contimplating how to make a fairly complex mold and I think the foam might do the trick. I'll post if it works out.

My stuff is pretty straight forward. Just using a positive and negative mold and pressing them together. It takes some time to work out the mold shapes, how much space to leave between them for the leather, obviously this would depend on your thickness of leather. Here are some pictures from the process.