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Everything posted by Leatherpownder
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The ends are glued in and I got them along with the hasp from the local craft store. I also get stuff from Rio Grande, a jewelry supply outfit. Glad you like it Casey.
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I'm not sure which knot you're looking for Jack. Maybe give me a call if you still have my number. Bret
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This is an 18" neclace that is about 3/16" in diameter with a magnetic clasp. 8 plait.
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Looks nice. What finish are you using on the hondos?
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Very nice braid work.
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I thought I would offer these up to the braiders here before I post elswhere. I am selling my current string cutter because I bought a new one made by a friend. I am asking $200 for the cutter. It has two bevel angles 45 and 60. Has worked well for me. Also I have an Osbourne splitter I am asking $340 for. $10 will have to be added to ship. If anyone's interested PM me.
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Help Choosing A String Cutter/beveler For Rawhide
Leatherpownder replied to larena's topic in Braiding
Lace Master is a better set up. I have used both and the Lace Master is more user friendly and easier to adjust. Look it up under that name on the computer. -
Help Choosing A String Cutter/beveler For Rawhide
Leatherpownder replied to larena's topic in Braiding
It does not but has a splitter attached if you don't already own one of those. I have a used string cutter that I will try to post pics of this evening for sale that has two angles, 45 & 60. I have a new cutter coming so I'm getting rid of this one. It's the cutter I've used until now. -
You are well on your way, just keep at it. Are those the same pair me and Charly saw in Elko?
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I'm with you Roo on those figures.
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This piece is a single thickness 1/2" strap. It could be sewed if you wanted depending on the thickness of the leather. This strap was about 1/8" thick.
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I splice the strings back under 2 over 2 after trimming the core off flush at the end. I ususally use a piece of firm leather as a base that can be shaped with a razor. when i can I use fresh hide but when I don't have time to work up a hide I get them from Tejas industries in full sides and cut from there.
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This is some of the stuff I am taking to a gear show in Elko during the Poetry Gathering.
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The easiest way I found to do that was to hand tighten the blade screws and loosen to start the string. That way you dont lose the thickness set. I bought an Osborne so I didn't use mine any more or I would have added a stop screw that I could set to stop the round after loosening. Just an idea.
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Go to the "Hansen String Cutter" web site.
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Here's the splitter Mega let me know what ya think.
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Mega. If you are looking for a fixed blade splitter like that I have the splitter off of a Hansen that I'd sell for $100. I'll try to post a pic.
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Well done. That's a very nice piece.
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I usually soak my rawhide for about 15-30 minutes or until the strings are about half soaked then shake and hang the rawhide for a few minutes so there is no excess water left. Otherwise you will have the problem mentioned. Then leave it in the bag over night (two nights are better) to fully temper the hide. It's hard to describe how long to soak but that will come with experience. It's a feel thing. Keep in mind you can't hurry rawhide.
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You might want to check out the "Lacemaster" site. It's a real good machine and will cut small string. I still use mine a lot.
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I would avoid using any fat or grease beacuse it will make it really hard to rewet srings when working. Just an observation if your braiding rawhide.
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Here's a few scarf slides I tied. Some have roo added and one has coffee died piece.
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For working gear I use braided nylon rope for the core. If you want a really smooth finnished project a braided roo core works well. Braided rawhide core would be a little stiffer feel. I'll post a pic today.