JLSleather

Well, until now I hadn't said it, but I wondered how it was "efficient" to draw in one program and then transfer to another?

Another vote for the 227 for this type of work. If you find you prefer a table to a cylinder, then Bob has the Consew 206RB-5, which is basically the same capacity (material, needles, thread) only in a flatbed type machine.

YIKES! That's 2 sq feet, or other words $18.50 / ft. For that money, that hide otta come with some beef still attached!

Oh, yeah - right you are. Corners will have a radius unless you request a sharp corner.

Maybe shoulda put the position of a thumb break strap ana snap BEFORE this? Oh, well, it'll still make a holster ... maybe one day I'll git another one. I thought about havin' this feller up the road weld it - build it up - but that's probably more money than a new dummy! You might be right A' -- maybe SUMthin kin stick it back on there ...

What does this mean? What curved edges?

Dropped the aluminum 'dummy' for the Charter Bulldog off'n the table. Landed just right, no longer has a hammer on it. Concrete floor meets aluminum casting .... yeah.

Yes, I know not all the mags are identical, but - seriously - they're so close I'm sure you can figure it out from there. "Officially", the link is to a "holster" for the Glock 19 9mm mag, but easy enough to adapt it to a 23, or a 32, or .... http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Mag_Gk19_P01.pdf

Should be simple enough to carve 3/4 oz.

26 feet for $140? From now on, I'm goin shoppin' with YOU 140 / 26 = $5.40 / ft ... That's better than tannery price.

Cool! I'm not much on the blue background, but I ONLY say that because it's shorter than saying I like the REST

With the needle that close to the end of the cylinder, those machines might work great for bag gussets and seams. I would just check to make sure they will accommodate the needle and thread sizes you want to work with.

Nice discussion Oldtoolsniper. I THINK I do some okay leather work, but I knew a guy 'back when' certainly had something to say about color. He DYED his own woodwork which, as you said, is not a 'sit in on the top' thing. You could cut the leg off one of his chairs and that was the color ALL THE WAY THROUGH. Fascinating. Don't even get me started about how he curved wood (permanently) with steam and some clamps. Crap. Now that I think about it -- Jim really made what I do look like a little kid with a crayon! But then I've always loved real wood. But, back to the airbrush thing ... I've been meaning to put something up on the site showing some very basic airbrush techniques. I certainly would want to include this "fade" thing everyone talks about - perhaps if we get EVERYONE doing it people would give that a break Genuinely SIMPLE to do - and anyone who knows Gibson guitars knows it's been around a LONG time (Gibson called it a "sunburst" in teh 50's). There are a LOT of effects to be had with even the most basic equipment. The little pic attached was done to show a few of these 'results', plus my little one wanted a place to keep his jig heads. Remember that little bag.. Tandy usedta call it a "wander" bag. For size reference, it's shown here with a spool of 3/32" lace... OH! I should perhaps add that is NOT TOOLED at all .. just some Fiebings spirit dyes sprayed here 'n' there ...

$1 return per $100 spent. Sounds about right

Wow, those are DEEP. Is your leather dry when you sew? Any moisture left in the belt can make your presser foot become basically a beveler tool. What machine do you have that doesn't adjust at all?

Yep, clicking (die cutting). Depending on your location, you might find someone close to you in the services section toward the bottom of the forum. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=88

That gal at texas custom dies says they'll use an .ai, .dwg, .dxf, .pdf and a couple others. FWIW

Thanks fellas..

I buy backs (side with belly removed). These generally run in the $180 range after shipping. But from that I can cut off the shoulder for holsters (8-10 of those) and still cut belts 1.5" wide and end up with about 18 of those (give or take two, depending...). Making each strip $10 (ish), after shipping. If you're going with solid colors, black / brown / tan / russet / chestnut ... and some others, I recommend W/C drum dyed backs (the prices mentioned are for theirs).

Somebody correct me .. but I believe that's a Right foot Double toe foot blanket set (3-piece) Holster Plate Stirrup plate Slotted plate Never used. Never gonna git used. At least not here.

Hey, Robert With that kinda moolah.. feller could do lunch COUPLE o times

So, you're not going to share this wisdom? It was okay to ask, but not okay to tell? No problem, just good information to know.

Hi, Joanne -- I'll get a picture of what's here in a bit. I'd take PayPal payment, but seems like you should see it ahead of time. Check what you got coming with your machine, though -- hate to see you paying for what you already have on the way!

I'm not seeing the benefit there, personally. I've broken threads in machine stitching, and I'll tell you it does NOT "come apart". If you've glued belt layers with permanent bonding cement, then the thread is merely cosmetic. If you didn't stitch it AT ALL, you STILL wouldn't get it apart. There is some stretch resistance added with the thread, but it's minimal. Keep in mind that 1) thread stretches too, and 2) if normal wear of a belt causes significant stretch - you might consider the leather you're using (it aint the stitching problem).

Well, I'll wait to see the pics. Sounds like we may be saying the same thing in different words. Think of it like a regular holster, you need the width of the gun extra in the stitch line (that's about 1") you need the width of the gun extra in the front panel (that's about another 1") But, I do NOT have any one person out there with 10 of my holsters, so I'll just wait for the lessons