JLSleather

Yeah, that's pretty bad. I've seen some HO that was better than other HO, but ... wow. They'd get that back. And if they wanted to keep a customer (like EVER again), they'd pay the shipping to return it, too. I like W/C myself, but I do use HO as well. HO has never sent me a piece with all of that going on. Ever. Sadly, it's getting worse trying to mail-order anything. Especially where they have a walk-in retail. You not only have unskilled, unlearned, or un-concerned store workers, but add the fact that people walking in have likely picked through the best looking leather, and you're getting .. uhhh. .what's left. Perhaps. Oh, and don't forget that there are people who will send you poop - and tell you they're willing to return it for a different piece. If you return it, they're okay... but likely are hoping that some of the time, someone just doesn't know better and keeps it. The guy who recommended buying a cobra leather machine felt bad too, but I finally convinced him it wasn't his fault.

Now individually on Ebay - so we can delete this

We've all got "that" drawer!

The top of that holster folds back, just like you were going to stitch it down. Instead of stitching it, you can attach a strap (basically same as the one for the hammer loop). The idea is to allow you to put the holster on or off without unbuckling your belt. I've never been fond of them - right at the top tends to wrinkle and get ugly quick from the ":convenient" flexing, plus they don't hold to the belt as well as if you had just stitched it down (though you could aid that by adding a leather block inside the folded area).

Okay, fair enough. Sometimes, no answer IS an answer

Really? Where's yer shop? Where's yer home? There's a few of us from around here now. Far as "the market" - I'm not gonna actually MAKE them things.. I'll leave that to folks more - uh - sensitive. I'm just talking about cutting them out and selling the BLANKS, and somebody ELSE can braid the things!

Oh, well then you should let us know if it fits this ... http://www.jlsleather.com/sdm_downloads/magazine-pouch-single-stack-9-pancake/

What mag? 45? 380? ....

You can actually see a pretty good view of one of the punches made for this over at http://www.usacuttingdie.com/die-examples.html I personally don't care for 'em, but I thought somebody might have a GOOD reason for them. TIP: Because "some guy in a goofy hat told me" is NOT a GOOD reason. Even if you heard it from the CAT in the HAT .. still don't count. I mean a LEGITIMATE reason

I don't use the waterstain thing. Or any stain thing. But I agree that the stitchin' looks "tight"...

I thought these were outlawed back in '87! Guess I'll have a die made to punch 'em out.. flood cutesy with 'em. Whatcha think... good way to use up scraps? Otta be worth .. what ... $2.50 each? $3.50?

Tha's one vote for customer perception / friction. Thanks! Anybody else?

What is your reason for curved belt slots on holsters? Somebody tell me the advantage gained by a curved slot. I've asked people who use them, and even some people who MAKE the punches -- so far nothing rational or relevant. ANYbody have a LEGITIMATE purpose?

I change the needle more than needed, probably. They're $1/apiece, so Watch for the hole in the back to start blowing out more, and swap it out. Keep in mind that on this site, you're talking to people who sharpen disposable razor blades (not me, but some) so FWIW... For a buck apiece, needles just aren't my top priority. And I stitch continuous whenever possible. If you look at the design for a minute, I'm sure you'll see a way. If nothing else, stitch around back to the start hole, and then step over (sideways) and continue. There is always a way ...

Maybe the question should be... is that 50% by WEIGHT, or 50% by VOLUME?

I don't recommend boiling leather in anything. I suppose it depends on how hard you'd like it to end up... somewhere between 'firm' and 'crispy'. I form leather with warm (almost hot) water. No temp guage, just if i can't stick my hand in it it's too hot. With good leather, a holster will harden to where you don't need the gun.. just whoop an attacker with the holster

You can tighten the stitch (down) with a modeling tool (or anything else that wont cut) but it may help avoid it in the future if you step the needle down one size (16) or I would likely bump up the thread size one notch -- 92 top and 69 under.

OH, I see where my reply could be taken wrong.... David, when i said lacing done by somebody ELSE, I meant somebody NOT ME Yours looks great! ETA: I do it, but I don't love it.

I keep a "sample' of the types of material I sew most often right at teh machine. So if I make a change, from 2 layers of 9 oz leather to one layer of 8 and a layer of 4, or to a layer of 6/7 backed with 3 oz chrome suede, etc. Takes a minute (maybe) to stitch a couple inches in scrap and adjust if needed instead of 'hoping' it will work on the project Oh, speaking as one who has made that mistake -- - I generally also check how much thread is on the bobbin before I start a project.

That looks good. Personally, I like lacing better when someone ELSE does it but that DOES look good.

Cut out and stitched. Then dipped in saddle tan dye (to dye the matching thread). Then wet formed. Then edges dyed chocolate. Leather cut out and dyed Fiebing's black oil dye. Allowed to set overnight and then stitched (red). Then wet formed after glue and stitch. Stamped Dyed (Fiebing's black alcohol) Formed and stitched.

Bob K has a video, shows how it should go in that machine. http://www.youtube.com/embed/boZOA4MTu2Y You can fast forward to about 2:30 on that video. My machine doesn't say cowboy, and the video for this one shows the bobbin going in the other way. Likely, it can be done either way, but it WOULD change the tensions One more thing about that bobbin area. You likely have two small screws on that bobbin case, which set the bobbin tension. If one is loose, that could cause it to move on you. And if you have top thread laying on the top of the leather, then you have either too much top tension, not enough bottom tension, or both. Before you start moving dials, did you change the weight of the thread you were using? That alone can change the tension(s) needed. Still, first things first... this is the order I would do it.... Step 1.) Make sure your bobbin is in the right way. Step 2.) Test on a scrap piece of leather (upload a pic for us, that might be something we'll recognize) Step 3.) Get a cold drink, and bitch that for $2500, you'd think a simple manual wouldn't be too much to ask. Dealers are paying MAYBE half of that price? Certainly a simple sketch is possible.... If that didn't fix it, THEN move to other issues.

LOTSA ways that could be done. Look in the right place, you might find entire cow sides already dyed like that.

If youre wondering if the color will bleed when forming? The alcohol dyes will NOT bleed, as long as they penetrate the leather.

Unless you saturate the leather with it, the neatsfoot should return to natural color once the oil has evened out (usually a day). Good to see a guy testing though! I've never used bag-kote. Thought about it a few times over the years, but ... does it shed water?