JLSleather
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Posts posted by JLSleather
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It DOES! I checked those stamps on the Weaver site. Even if they were availalble, those are NOT the stamp that made that border. I havent seen the one from Watts, and don't see any on that site either. If it looks like the Weaver's that aint gonna work.
Not a problem, though, I like to do what I said i'll do. So, if it's $8 to research and find you the right stamp, I'm OK with that
Tell me where ta send it, might just cover the shippin' -
Just saw the listing. Two things I'd ask about. What happened to the guard by the take up lever, and , why don't he know if the light works, is his arm broke and he can't flip the switch? I don't like those "works far as I know" deals
Just a thought.. isn't "Cobra Steve" out yer way? Think he has used machines as well as new ones.
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I have the RB-5. Two layers of 9 oz veg tan will go through it, but I think if you'll be sewing this consistently you might step the machine up one size. Theory says it'll sew like 1/2" (two 9 oz more like 9/32"). But, my truck speedometer reads to 130 - doesn't mean it should be run at capacity like that.
I'm not a sewing machine "guy", but as a guy who worked with machines and gears for a good while, I can tell you the rule is 60% capacity. If you want to go 60 mph, get a machine that "could" do 100 and you'll likely be fine. That principle, if you want to sew 9/32", you might get a machine that will sew about 15/32" without 'screaming'.
The other issue, if you're sewing bags, a fella might want a cylinder bed machine (so you can stitch the tops).
Now, if you got the chance to pick one up cheap, not needing extensive work....
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Shaped like a rope stamp. BUT, $8 says that's an embossing roll, not a stamp at all.
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Did you see these? Down yer way, actually ...
http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53820#entry344462
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Threaded. Always. Never met a lace that didn't work with them, long as you have the correct size (the XL latigo needle wont work well with 1/8" flat lace).
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Same solvent you use to thin the dye. I 'rinse' between colors and 'clean' between uses - short version.
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As far as spray patterns, I think you could get about 3/4" wide out of the small tip (not including overspray), and I think twice that wide from the larger tip.
Check Ebay, sometimes you can find them brand new for LESS than in the "box" stores. Not sure why, but there they are. I know you said cost not an issue, but if you're like me you don't spend $75 for what you can just as easily get for $50!
You can get less expensive models, but I like that parts for these are everywhere. I can go to the hobby store right down the hill and replace a needle if I need to.
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Yeah, we've used the VL for years. They just re-designed it recently, so it's a bit different than mine, but likely not much. For what it's worth, I use the #1 tip MOST of the time, with pressuer between 20 - 25 lbs of air.
They come with a 1/4 oz cup. Just to give an idea, I think she used about 1 ounce of dye to do the brown background and lettering on this binder, all with the #1 tip (it would have been a bit faster to use the #3 or #5 tip, but then you'd have to clean more than one tip and needle, so not really faster). I have several of these, so I just leave the #1 tip in that one, #3 in that one .. etc. I have several not because I'm saying it's THE best one, but just so when I pick up the next one, it works the same way as the last one ...
Still, a #1 tip is certainly large enough to do straps / belts in not much time. Seriously -- 4 ounces is a LOT of dye for a strap. You didn't say which gun you bought. Some really ARE for extremely fine detail (only). The Paasche AB got very renouned for it's use in medical drawings (someone used it - maybe the 80's - to make a painting of the human eye, complete with blood vessels, etc. === That was AMAZING artwork).
Oh, forgot .. this binder is about 13" x 13", and the back is colored solid brown same as the front color.
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Just guessing from many listings I've seen lately, apparently "hand tooled" is widespread- 'hand carved' is not. I guess if click a shape, emboss a design in a press, this is still "hand tooled" as long as you had a TOOL in your HAND when you edged it, or set the snaps, etc. Perhaps that's marketing poop, or perhaps that's as far as the conscience will allow some to go. You don't have to look far .. there are links to Etsy shops every third page around here.
Now, each his own. I don't even sweat it - people have been full of it since before i was born. I just concern myself with MY stuff. If someone asks, I'll tell them how I did it. No charge. You don't have to buy the book.
I have a machine, but I'll saddle stitch it if requested. I don't have a clicker press, though I haven't ruled that out and think if I clicked the shape, it'll still be my work. I could go on, but the ones who might listen already know ...
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A couple of things :
Since you specifically mention making holsters, then you'll want to keep the leather thickness at least 7 ounce (some of the boys use TWO layers of 4/5, for a total of about 9 ounce thick).
For very simple designs, not a lot of tools needed. Seriously, to make a simple holster, you could do that in a simple basketweave with...
Piece of 8/9 ounce leather (about 2 sq ft for a good size one, less for smaller rigs)
Knife to cut out (your exacto kit probably has what you need)
Swivel knife, smooth beveler, basket stamp, cam or border tool (for basketweave design tooling),
Some type of dye (Fiebing's spirit dyes are a long favorite of many folks),
thread, stitchin needles, and something to make holes (I like an awl, but look around the forums),
Folder, modeling tool,
Hole punch (for belt slots, etc) for holsters, you might consider an oblong (#5) and a regular wood chisel. Together with your xacto, this would let you punch belt holes, too, if you were to decide on the belt to match.
Plus, wait - no plus - that really is all you need.
Beyond that, because I've made most of the mistakes that can be made, here's my 'add-on'.
Spend $5 at a hobby store, if you don't already have transparent triangles. You know, the 30/60 , 45/90 little things likely in the drawing or drafting section. Great for making borders (straight), and many other uses you'll see once you have it within reach.
If you're going to lace, spend the couple bucks and get threaded lacing needles called Perma-Lok. Without being long-winded about it, those "prong" needles are crap.
Get a caliper, if you dont' have one yet. Doesn't need to say Sharpe or Starrett, just $10-15 at the hardware store (or auto parts store prolly got one too). Measure thickness of leather, distance to edge, size of holes, etc. I "ounce" thickness = .0156" (or about .4 mm)
Do not pay someone for "scrap". This is one of the biggest insults I've seen from leather suppliers (and there are many). I recommend going with a USEABLE piece of leather.
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Well, ,uhhmm.. yeah, that would work. But if you're running it through a machine, why not put thread in the machine??!!
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Call 'em at S-T in St Louis. Their catalog shows it, but it's outdated, so you might check. Go here on the left side go down to "leathercraft kits" and click page 46 - half way down right side column.
I've never used 'em, and I pretty much hate that cheap "mission grain" puke in those kits, but I'm guessing thats what this is -- they just put a different number on Tandy's kit.
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So, the cutting pattern is missing?
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The "old" billfolds - the ones you see in the tooling 'manuals' - were 9 1/4" x 3 3/8", which folds to about 4.5" wide.
Updating that, simple enough to make a paper pattern (I like about 50lb bristol) to whatever size you like.
Assuming the wallet in that picture is about this size, then using Horween leather you're looking at a whopping $10 worth of materials there.
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what's a 'lady' wallet? got a picture?
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Search bar. Block dyeing. Man, this must be gaining popularity (or perhaps just 'speedy' "etsy" style stuff).
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If you use those things, you might check with the Tandy store where you are. The one up this way keeps "extra" single letters - you can purchase like an extra "I" or a 7.
I don't like those stamps (though I do own some somewhere), but the Tandy girl is worth making a trip down that way occasionally...
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That does look like a double-loop. Tough to tell with the colors involved and the small picture, but I'm "almost" sure. One more complicating issue, that's "backwards" from the way you'll usually see it done (including in instructions). Note how the lace slants, low on the left, high on the right. This is not "wrong", but most lacing directions will show it with the lace running high on the left and low on the right. If a smart person was going to GUESS, he might say that this lacing was done ..
1.) From the INSIDE of the wallet, pushing the needle through to the outside, or ..
2.) Done by a lefty. I've seen some lefty lace like this before.
What's the difference? Probably none, but it'll look "backwards" in a lacing manual, which sucks for a guy trying to learn the technique!
Here's what I mean, done from the OUTSIDE by a right handed person ...
AND, if you care for it, here's some diretions that someone (maybe that smart guy?) put up some time ago, showing just how to do that ...
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I like the look, but to machine stitch that (with the top stitch like that) might require a patcher, or a post-bed (?).
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Alphabet stamps 'suck'. Cheap, and they look it. Search on here for posts by Electrathon about type and typesetting. His text looks as good as any I've seen.
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That's actually a pretty good idea. Or a table-top drill press, which would hold a drum sanding disc or a burnishing tool.
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Any dye will act a bit like that. Tooled areas are compressed, which can restrict the dye pentetration a bit. On the other hand, the hair blade - as you know - gives it a bunch of grooves the dye can crawl in. Put the two side by side and it looks even worse than it is.
So, no, a different dye is no so much the issue as a different technique. Less, or more. Light, or heavy. You just need to get used to not doing it all the same way.
Sides
in All About Leather
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Red:
If I had to use ONE word to recommend a fella what makes (largely) holsters and belts for them, "backs". THE best part of the leather for belts is in the butt, and running from the butt to the neck.
Leather, like wood, has a grain, and a grain direction. Strongest in the center of the hide, along the spine, and butt to head. We've all seen some really nice stuff made out of shoulders, and most of us have likely used them one time or another. Theory, if you cut from the same hide (all else the same) then the BACK or BEND leather will be stronger down teh length than SHOULDER leather (since the double shoulder strip is cut "across the grain, allowing more stretch).
Realistically, if you're making belts double layer and stitched (and not tooled extensively) then the shoulders are fine. There's a LOT of strength built into multiple layers (and the thread becomes a "layer" for strength).
I buy sides in lighter weights - 3/4 4/5 - because I can use the belly leather (which is much more porous and loose grained) for small projects that don't get stressed much. Wallets, coin things, portfolio interiors, and belt linings. That said, I'm talking about lining belts that are carved, lined and stitched with a TOTAL thickness of about 10-12 oz (the lining is intended to be PURDY, not carrying any weight). Above about 5 oounce, I buy backs, because I know I won't use up the smaller pieces and can't be bothered to split it down. So, the belly is no use to me, thus I buy the 'back' (the side, with the belly cut off).
Reason I say backs: The best belt leather comes from the BEND, which would be from the tail to the shoulder. But suppliers price by this "cream of the crop", too. Buying the back gets you the belt bend, plus the 'single shoulder', which as you already know is fine for holsters. If you're dyeing rich browns and blacks, perhaps no matter. The advantage of usig the backs is that you have a belt and a holster cut from the same hide - which then should dye the same. And form the same. And stitch the same. And...