JLSleather
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Posts posted by JLSleather
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Other way around. Carve it FIRST, do any coloring you want, THEN stick n stitch. Much better defiinition in the carving. You 'could' tool it after it's one piece - much as you could emboss layers - but it's easier to tool first. One exception, a fella might stitch it together before coloring if you are planning to dip dye both sides.
Also, pretty popular to put white (or natural) thread on brown or black leather. This can only be done by coloring FIRST, then stitching (go ahead, somone paint in between stitches to prove thats wrong
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Welted construction, contrasting welts and straps, full length zippers, ... I'd say your "fail" is off to a great start!
TWO things to note about this bag.
1.) The wrinkles and 'fuzzy' flesh side makes this bag look like the leather may not be the top-o-the-line. Looks dry, actually.
2.) I've never been a fan of pre-punched holes, for stitching or otherwise.
3.) I obviously can't count, and since the bag is yours then my opinion is only worth "so much" anyway.
Great start!
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That zipper is stitched to vegetable tanned leather "gussets", which are then attached to the case. Not sure the reason for "multi-directional" on a case this small. I think the 'norm' with this type of case is a zippper running the length with a hole in the pull large enough to fit a lock, and a "dee" or sqare ring on the end that the lock attaches to when it's closed.
As for the actual constructing of the gussets, absolutely check out Stohlmans book on leather cases. The cases shown are largely outdated now, but the principles are still used. The style you are looking for are clearly outlined in the book cover, notebook, and briefcase (variations at each).
Purchase at store or download here.
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It's just copper ... a wire cutter will do it.
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One more nod for the thread exchange. Lots of sizes and a wide range of colors. Shipped quick.
http://www.thethreadexchange.com/
And, temper this with the thought that if where you bought the Cobra is treating you well, and has the thread you need, thre's something to be said for loyalty
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Don't see any pictures, actually, but if you're getting a stain from the buckle then it's steel. Use brass buckles and you won't have that.
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I've used Saddle-Lac for years. I like the way it looks (and the way it works) but I don't put it on everything - some things just don't do well wit the gloss. And, yes, if I had to guess I'd say you applied it way too heavy.
You CAN get that off, with deglazer. Depending on the size of the project (and the tannage, and a few other things) it may be easier to replace the project. About the only time I ever strip the finish off of anything is for a repair, and I don't repair stuff someone else did, so ...
Keep in mind that these days there are two different versions of Saddle-Lac. One is much like it always was, the other says right on the jug "new higher gloss blah blah" and they are NOT kidding. I grabbed a couple a whle back, not realizing i was getting one of each. Big difference.
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Got it .... two votes for grain side.
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I see they have TWO listings for the 100 pack -- one says stainless and one doesn't (black phospate finish). I assume that's your issue with the magnetism? So, while it doesn't SAY stainless, you might ask them over there. I dare say the folks using hacksaw blades are NOT using stainless.
Two things here, though. Being magnetic does not mean the metal is not stainless. There are THOUSANDS of stainless steel alloys, many of which are magnetic.
Some of the listings over there DO say "stainless". Now I'm wondering if these are stainless steel COMPOSITION or merely stainless COLOR.
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Never tried the biker wallet version, as biker wallets might tend to attract (EWW) bikers. Some of the other interiors - like you said - can be time savers. And, it does keep a fella from havin to buy a whole skin of lining leather and all that's associated.
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that does seem to be the trend. And, for a chubby girl who hasn't made holsters for a while, that aint bad
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As a used-to-be tool n die man, Autocad wasn't a choice, but a requirement. Seemed to translate to a number of other things, inluding leather. Not necessarily better, just what I was used to.
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Always a trade-off somewhere. I've used the fiebings "regular" dyes and the "pro" dyes. Not so very different in the application, but if there was one worth noting it would be the black. The "regular" black requires a good bit of elbow grease and buffing, but buffs to a nice shine, even before applying finish. The oil dye, conversely, requires little bufffing, but will not attain the same shine, even with intense buffing (I admit, I haven't tried a powered buffer).
Yet another 'opinion' on teh neatsfoot - yep, I use it. Only on the GRAIN side (never the flesh side) and I like the result I get. Dwight does the flesh side, and likes the result he gets. So, go figger...
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Okay, I give up. Everywhere, you see blueguns listed as FS-something. Regardless of model. What is the "FS" for?
Full size?
For Sale?
Fer Shur?
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Okay, Okay, Syl - yer right
Each his own.BUT, I done heard some fellas got boyfriends. Long as they aint sellin it at MY house ...
Oh, yeah .... send us a message let us know how the project's comin'
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Nice - that IS a sweet deal. KEEP that buddy
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Yep, it happens. I've actually seen at craft shows .. people literally ELBOW their way in right past some decent looking stuff to get at some stuff that looks like it was dragged behind the car.
I asked about that (repeatedly). Turns out, there are some people who think that it should look "craftsy", and any well-planned and carefully done work takes away from the "Crafty-ness" of the finished goods. "Leatherworkers" (notice the quotes) actually add to the zoo. They make crap, so they'll "market" it as "rustic" or "distressed" when the truth is it's beat up, wrinkled, and poorly dyed.
So, it's not limited to Etsy by any means. But, on Etsy, if you post your stuff amongst a couple million listings of 39¢ jewelry, well ... expect those clients. In the end, all you can do it make stuff the way you want to make it.
Some people prefer to improve the quality of the goods. Others prefer to bang out [whatever], and then spend their time on Facebook (or similar) convincing people they "meant" to do it that way... I'm with you -- I think their time would be better spent with some practice.
Nothing we can do about either one.
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No pictures? I didn't see you mentioned anything "white", but if we knew what "gap" you're referring to that would help.
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I've been meaning to try a few myself. I used AutoCad forever, but the version I have doesn't work since Vista. I really miss being able to specifiy a radius and put it right there, but I'm pretty sure I'm not spending THOUSANDS $$ just for that. Adobe will let you do that, but with a few more steps ..
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You'd think any machine shop could blank these out for you -- it's just a piece of spring steel with a couple holes. MOST machine shops probably have some heavy shim stock - SAME thing. Keepin' in mind that lets you pick the size you want.
Other hand, if you got people sellin' em for like 40¢ (the 100 price) then unless you need a custom batch, I'd just order em there.
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I know it must be tempting for those who make holsters ONLY to use the machine. Personally, it's laziness that CAUSES me to handstitch a holster! I make other "stuff", and by the time I swap out thread, adjust tensions, test the settings, get the holster in the machine -- I could have been done hand sewing it and not had to adjust all of that BACK to where it was
Okay, all that said, I admit that I often run the gun BELT through the machine (right behind the 6" wide size 44 weight lifting belt).
That stitchin horse is purdy though.
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It does seem like a fella needs a radius, don't it. Too bad they don't have like hobby stores that sell circle and arc templates for a couple bucks. Ooooo... wait .....
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Here's my opinion -- it dont matter. With solid black, or brown, or whatever, REALLY dont matter. BUT, with shades and tones and hints and hi-lites, I dye it with the leather dry. Dont matter for penetration, but if the leather is wet you may get a different shade than you thought when it dries. Some from the leather itself lightening up, and some from the sheen of the moisture in the hide.
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Nice! Is that a hard or soft gusset?
Dark Effect On Tooled Leather
in How Do I Do That?
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As a rule, I don't know why people use that antique stuff. Looks a bit like someone puked on perfectly good leather
Here, Bob (Klenda) has used it to make a VERY simple design (not intricate or time consuming) look VERY nice. Now, that could be an antique PASTE, or a GEL, or even an antique DYE (and one old boy used to put Fiebing's dye in Tan-Kote for a nice effect). Best bet, if you really want to know, I'd send a message to Bob -- he just might have the time to tell you what he used.