JLSleather
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Posts posted by JLSleather
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Got it .. THANKS, Bob!
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OK, WTH ...
Anybody got a VIEWABLE picture of adjustment for the top pressure? I'm getting marks (a layer of 6/7 sewed to a liner of 3/4). Picture in the manual is like a big black blotch ... useless. Blow it up on the screen, still useless.
This can't be that difficult, but I'm unwilling to start turning screws and "see what happens".
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Just in case anyone else had this same question, here's [part of] the response from Bob ...
... we have a couple of edge guides in stock,a small one that mounts just to the right of the feet f/$6.50 & a deluxe drop down just like Keystones f/$75.00 .... Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd
1-866-362-7397
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I have a 206RB-5, where can I get the roller guide for this machine? Sorry if this is already posted, but I can't read ANY more posts with the wrong information
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post your images without your name attached to it with instructions to be brutally honest. I did this a good while ago and the critique of my work was ...sobering.
I like this one, though I would take it just one notch further. Scratch the name off of anything you see that inspires you.
I know we all assume that if it says Stohlman on it, it's going to be quite nice. BUT -- I've seen many projects that were extremely well done from people who have been working leather for just a short time. I've also seen web sites with long flowery speeches about how long they've been doing it - followed by some stuff that looks like it was taken away from the dog.
WHO did it is immaterial - look for styles / techniques / methods that you like, learn what you can from them.
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My Paasches (plural) are hooked up to a pancake compressor from Menards, made by Stanley Bostitch. It's a bit loud, for a few minutes. Even after being drained, it runs for about 3-4 minutes, then kicks off. So i just turn it on and then have coffee. By the time the coffee is done, so is the noise. I got it for a little over $100, but came with two finish nail guns that would cost over that alone.
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That rose to the left was painted with the Paasche VL. Can't go wrong with these things.. they've been around a long time, nearly indestructable, and replacement parts are everywhere. Simple to use, simple to clean.
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This question comes back around every so often, has for years. Mostly, someone heard from someone who heard from someone who heard ...
Here's two things ....
An 1/8 oz of dye applied with an airbrush is the same amount as 1/8 oz of dye applied with a sable brush.
If you really believe (at all) those who say airbrush - applied dye will 'come off', then get a piece of scrap and try it. This is a two-step process: 1.) Spray some dye on a piece of leather 2.) Take it off (if you can).
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Wow, when I suggested looking at search results on Etsy, I certainly didn't mean to spend your day brow-beating the next guy. The whole point was, your stuff certainly is that quality (and better than many). My mistake - I should have simply said go on and sell your product and left it at that.
What I do NOT suggest, is basing your price on the time it took. One guy makes an item in an hour, next guy takes 3 hours. If the quality is the same, I for one would not pay more for the slower guy - thus rewarding him / her for going slower. A $50 wallet is a $50 wallet, regardless of who made it or how long it took.
Seriously, enjoy the crafting. Make some money at it. Improve when / where you can. Just keep in mind, the guy who needs to run someone else down to feel better about what he does (instead of improving it) has issues way beyond the burnished edges.
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Head over to Etsy and search 'tooled leather wallet'. You won't feel at all concious about selling yours! Sure, there's some room for improvement, but alreeady nicer than a LOT of whats out there for sale!
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The 'cobra' foks can't tell you? I heard wonderful things about the 'customer service' there ..
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No, NOT really. The 'texture' in that photo is the grain of the leather itself. Simply, this is not something the crafter has done, but something the animal and the tanner have done.
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Thinner layers bonded together will make for a stronger item (two layers of 5 oz properly joined is stronger than 1 layer of 10 oz). Stitching adds even more strength. Your home is likely the same principle. Stand on the end of a board and it bows or snaps. Same thing with a sheet of plywood. But nail them together, and you can't budge either.
The quote is, "a cord of three strands is very strong".
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This may help you find something local.
http://www.blueguns.com/shopcontent.asp?type=distributors#texas
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I think that's what he just said?
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I saw your post the day you put it up, but thought someone else might have more valuable information for you than I have. Sometimes, I may give people too much credit! So, here is something that may be of use.
Not sure what the 'going rate' is for leather stuff over across the water. I try not to guess what the value of anyone's work is -- I've seen work that I thought couldn't be sold going 'like hotcakes' despite my opinion.
One gal sells small wallets for $50 range. Materials would be around $5.00 (U.S.) so not a huge profit , unless you realize that she's selling a dozen a week - every week. Now, I don't make those, and i'm not going to start, but $500 (ish) per week for simple little projects sounds okay to me.
Some thought the 'pet rock' was crude and stupid. Maybe it was. Still, guy "invented" it and became a mulit-millionaire.
And leather crafters will often pay a pretty good bit of money for travel and accomodations to cross half the country and pay some aging overweight fella to tell them what he could have said in a post on here. Go figure!
Point is, while you may not sell much on LW (we are known for making our own), it's important to do what YOU want to do. What the next guy thinks (including me) may have nothing to do with which direction you go.
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It IS getting better. Just gotta stay at it. The piece of leather you have there looks a bit rough, which is all the difference. TWO pieces of advice for this
1.) If you want to be good at running 2 miles, you gotta practice running five.
2.) When a guy gets so important (or is it "self-absorbed") that his advice must be purchased, I let him keep it.
Oh, actualy THREE ... 3.) If that first one doesn't appear to make sense, don't worry about it
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it took about 80 hours all up to plait.
Yikes! Any monkey can learn to tool, but THIS is impressive. Two years ago, twenty years ago, whatever. This is INCREDIBLE.
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Yep, I'm with you .. pretty doesn't mean much if it doesn't do the job. My credit is okay I guess, but I stil drive a 1999 vehicle that there is nothing wrong with.
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It looks like the area arround the floral and the strap have been dyed, not stained. But this is guesswork - probably best thing to do is ask the person who made it!
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I DO hope you're taking the advise of those members who suggested you try this on scrap first. Don't even need to be letters, really, just dye a piece black and then put the red over it. "Wasting" a piece of scrap may well save you some aggravation.
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Just like you said Jake. Not sure what that other thing is about. How do you NOT have the buckle length involved here? Trophy buckles gonna throw that WAY off ...
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That's what I thought too -- piping
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Got a person looking for information on the Consew 110. Contacted Consew, who states they didn't make that machine.
From them:
It has a roller foot, needle feed and a knife that trims as it sews. I'm sure it took a lot of modification as it has release mechanisms that don't look standard to me. I normally run Brother machines that do not have this knife. The knife comes down with the needle stroke. It will start to cut and then the knife deflects off to the right.
it has a metal tag that says Consew 110. I was trying to find a replacement knife for it and sent pictures to Consew and they said they never made it. I thought I had too large a roller foot and the bar that holds the knife blade was deflecting off that. So I replaced the foot back to the original one and the bar doesn't strike it on the down stroke but the blade doesn't cut either.
Any help or link appreciated!
Wet Moulding And Carving... In What Order And How Much Water?
in How Do I Do That?
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As a rule, you're right. Once you start carving, you want to NOT re-wet the leather. This is not always possible, or practical, and you do what you have to do (pretty tough to carve on a formed holster).
For your carving, the moisture content is very important, but you cannot get it 'too' wet -- you'll just have to wait longer before you start carving. Where possible, you might form, then carve as the leather reaches the right 'humidity' for carving.