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JLSleather

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Posts posted by JLSleather

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Got a drill? Drill the rivets out of the clipboard. You can buy the clips, but since you already have this could just as well use it. Git yer left side piece where you want it. Punch two holes in it that line up with the clip. Put the plastic behind that piece and put two (longer) rivets through the plastic, the leather, AND the clip. This solves two problems .. the clip is now on top of the leather and FLUSH to hold the tablet, and your piece of plastic is retained - kaint fall out. Oh, one additional benefit of doin it this way ..when the clip wears out (it WILL), you just knock the rivets out (again) and replace the clip without destroying anything else.

    The other issue, I really don't see ME rollling that entire edge. It'll be REALLY cold that day :) A fella "could" roll a binder around the edge, if you want it covered. Forget what they call that .. almost like piping. Maybe ona the sensitive, sewing types kin chime in ... :) Basically, use a 1" (ish) strip of yer lining material to wrap the edge.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Seems like the dealer should have adjusted all of that, and I'm not sure how it would move significantly. But, there's a little thing in there, simple to see if you're in the right place. Need a small but fairly long screw driver. Did you get a user guide with your machine?

    Top right of your machine, next to the handwheel, is a cover plate (no?). Swing the plate out of the way, look down the top, Behind the oil 'wick', you'll see a slotted screw next to two "wheels". Actually, these are nothing more than locking sleeves on the shaft. You'll know the ones, you should see two marks beside each other. Manual calls 'em "marks", looks more like "dots".

    Basically, these should be lined up across from each other. But, there is some adjustment. Loosen the screw a bit. Then move the left 'mark' - towards the back makes the reverse stitch longer, towards the front makes the reverse stitch shorter. Then tighten the screw back in.

    Now, that's the theory, but there are no fine graduations on the adjustment, so its a "bout so much" adjustment.

  11. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    With the Fiebing's colors, you can 'tone down' the reddish tint with a touch of green added. Do this S L O W L Y as the green is quite strong and it doesn't take much at all. You might try mixing a bit in a different bottle, 'case you dn't like it.

    One more thing, not sure what shade you are after exactly, but I always thought the Fiebings buckskin was a bit yellow-ish.

  12. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    As a rule, I don't like to see basket stamping less than 4-5 rows high. Just to give you a starting point - since we don't know what you're callling 'small' --

    two belts in the picture, both black so color doesn't figure in. Top one is 1 1/4" wide, and done with a 511.

    Bottom is 1 1 /2" wide, with a narrower border, and done with a 514.

    My personal preference, I would have used a smaller stamp on BOTH of these, 'tighten' it a bit.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    "Suede" is just a term for animal skin with the top grain removed. Chrome tanned doesn't burnish, but the veg tanned will. The BACK side of you 10oz veg tanned leather IS "sueded". We sometimes (incorrectly) interchange the term 'veg tanned' for tooling/carving leather. Tooling leather IS veg tanned, but it is not the ONLY veg tanned. Here's the (eventual) point ...

    You'll likely see what "looks like" suede, marketed as a "split". When it comes off the animal, it's thicker in some spots than others. They'll skive it (say, to your 10 oz stuff) and the underside is "split" off, but still same tannage.

    Just terminology. People differentiate "leather" and "suede", but suede IS leather. And when we say leather, lotsa foks think cow - which may or may not be the case.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Yep, that's it, though I think they re-numbered it since back when.

    But, since yer fixin' ta use cloth, a plastic template maybe not so useful? Let me know how you gonna put the letters in (dye, paint, applique, whatever) and I'll make the lettering to suit (including sizin' the rascal).

    Total investment .. oh, let's say - free. :)

  16. Posted · Report reply

    We can't tell how wet your leather is without pictures, but these "push bevelers" have been used for decades. Some folks have made wood or plastic grips to make them easier to use, some are made to fit in a swivel knife, etc.

    The ones I've seen are smooth faced, and I'm guessing that a heavy texture on the face would make it a bit tough to push (plus destroying the texture you were trying to achieve).

  17. Posted · Report reply

    DISCLAIMER: I'm NOT the sewing machine guy, and I don't own a Cobra machine.

    I think the Artisan is older than 5 years, though that may be long as that guy has had it. Don't see many of those around here, but it's comparable to the Consew 206, which can be had for $700 (ish). I paid $950 for the whole set-up, complete with manual, thread stand, lamp, half a dozen pounds of thread in a couple sizes I would use, about 70-80 needles in a few different sizes , etc .... including brought to my house and set in place.

    I'm admittedly cheap, but unless he's offering all of that, on a machine that sews well and looks good, and is taking about $700 ...

    I'd probably just get the Cobra 18, which is the same type deal, comes NEW with everything you need, and belongs to the same guy you got the other one from. That also comes with a $1600 price tag, and some shiping I'd guess, so there's that. I don't know those boys at Leather Machine, but seems like there's osmething to be said for ONE guy to deal with if you have problems of need supplies, ASSUMINg that you're happy with the Class4.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    The overstitch wheels you see are quite handy, but will not cover every application. Perhaps the most OBvious question to answer your question ... what will you stitch?

    I got comfortable with an awl early on. Seen it in a book, and looked like it made sense. Later I saw some 'chisels', and some 'irons', and some 'punches', none of which looked like they would be worth beans for stitchin' 45° miter corners ...

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Yep, that sounds like pretty good advice. Also sounds like you state your opinion pretty well, so likely you n yer buddy can work it out ("its for a friend but have to draw the line on something").

    Personally, I don't really even discuss with people who charge by the hour. Don't even really listen to their "reasoning". Seriously, to pay by the hour means the SLOWer guy makes MORE, and I just won't REWARD a fella fer bein' slow. Nope.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I can empathize. We had a fire in 1993 (and a break-in in 2005). It sucks, I know, but the 'toys' can be replaced. I'd like to have back the photos of some of the old work, but we had copies of the old pictures of the babies (in another location). Everyone here was safe both times, we just lost 'stuff'. In the end, it does give some perspective -- reminder that it's just 'stuff'. The wife goes on about how much she loves our current house, but honestly it looks like some bricks and some sticks to me -- just not the real issue. I know it sucks, and I'm not trying to make light of it.

    Naked I came into this world ...

    My wife says that as a conversationalist, I'm a pretty fair leatherworker. Just know that I meant well :)

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