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JLSleather

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Posts posted by JLSleather

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I've always used Fiebing's spirit dyes, and I probably use more of the chocolate than any other color. With the browns, I just get the dark brown and thin to the shade I want - 5 shades I use all the time and a couple of empty jars I use to mix a shade I just need that day.

    It's true that the brown has a bit of a reddish tint - it's been like that since the first bottle I bought. I get the brown BECAUSE of the tint. But, if you don't like the red (ish) in it you can "neutralize" it by adding a touch of green. If you go that way, I'd suggest you mix in a separate bottle until you get the color you want, then thin as needed. Pretty tough to get a color match the other way around.

    I have a couple of pics i use for just this purpose. Two belts, very similar designs, dyed in just the same way.

    One in nothing but brown

    http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=17847

    and one in nothing but chocolate

    http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=17807

    No antique or stain at all. Ever.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I always have a "box cutter" (utility knife) around. Great for long straight cuts - and no sharpening. It's worth 25 cents for a blade to NOT have to sharpen it. As Chief said, they aint great for curves. For that (just cutting out leather) I use x-acto blades (stil no sharpening).

    With a round knife, you can cut, skive, bevel, stuff you wouldn't want to do with a utility knife. That said, I should say that I wouldn't want to do with a utitily knife, the next guy might be fine with it (I once saw a young boy with some line wrapped around a Pepsi can catching more fish than some fellas with all the latest tackle).

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Bezier WAS a French engineer, working with curves for the auto industry. Anyway, drawing a "curve" in a vector program involves an INSANE amount of math. Fortunately, the computer does the math for you.

    I used AutoCad for years, and now use PS regularly. Biggest thing on my end for graphics is that often a customer can't visualize the thing, and wants to see what it will look like. AutoCad's "render" is a bit slow / PS learning curve is a bit steep.

    It seems that Gimp is highly recommended, but since I lack the time to learn a whole new program, I stick to what I have. I'm USED to PS, but Gimp is FREE which has to be a plus. If you don't already use one or the other, I'd go with the free.

    What I find works best is a combination of software and ink pen. When I draw patterns, I STILL scan them. Paper patterns age, the digital file won't. When the paper pattern is worn, I just print another. When I have requests for "matching", say a checkbook and handbag, I can easily transform the pattern to suit the other item, and the customer can see it before they buy it (sorta).

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Keep in mind that a press that small probably has a maximum height of about 5". Ram length MIGHT be as much as twice that. For my $.02, better to go with round hole no more than a couple inches deep, add bushings for different diameter tools as needed.

    Any machine shop can do this in 15 minutes. One more thought .. that same machine shop probably caries standard brass or bronze bushings. At about $5 apiece, you can get half a dozen of them all in (just for example) 1/2" outside diameter, then just bore the inside to fit the tool you want to use. This way, ONE hole in the arbor of the press fits all yer stuff and if the bushing ever wears out you just get another one off the shelf.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Updated list ...

    belt blanks (8/9 oz ),

    leather that was cut out to make a two handbags, complete with lining leather, (sample of same bags shown below)

    3 'Victoria' clutch purse kits (with the brass snap frame and such),

    1 unopened 'Nanette' clutch purse kit (photo of example I did a while back)

    1 credit card wallet kit (again, photo shows same style in kit)

  16. Posted · Report reply

    In the course of cleaning up and getting ready for the re-model, I found this set of zodiac craftaids. TWELVE craftaids, #6510 - 6521.

    All in great shape (I never use them). Photocarve (the paper that shows the carving) is in file form. I'm attaching a reduced file of one of them just so you can see the ones I'm talking about.

    All as one set. - $30 includes US priority shipping.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    A fella could do that easy enough with an arbor press. Still manual (no electric) but faster than one hole at a time. Just the self-centering might be a bit of a head scratcher.

    Since you're only talking about a few inches of area, and small punches, two plates would do it. Top one with some threaded holes (so you can replace punches) and bottom plate with reamed holes (so you can insert pins for alignment. Pull the lever and you're done. Get one with a little pressure and you could cut the tip in the same stroke.

    Not sure where you get those over there, but around here a 1-ton runs $60-70 US. I'd probably go with the 2-ton - not that you need that much power, but they generally include a ratchet wheel that's kinda nice (about $175 US).

  19. Posted · Report reply

    As a rule, no. Depends on the tool you're talking about. A french skiver used to be a squared off channel half an inch or so wide. Almost like a wood chisel, and you COULD bevel an edge with it. And it'd be tough to make a "U" gouge with a french beveler, but a "V" groove could be done by a fella was watching what he's doing.

    Point is, you could bevel edges with the wood chisel if it's sharp. I saw a kid - about 10 years old - fishing with a chunk of fishing line wrapped around a Pepsi can. Catching as many fish as anyone there. I went and bought him a fishing rod - not because he needed one but because his determination was impressive :)

    For the stuff you mentioned you'll be making, I'd get the edge beveler.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    The term "crust" is not necessarily talking about fish n such. Cow leather which is tanned and dried but not finished (as in buffed, sanded, dyed, and/or embossed) is called crust as well as other animals.

    A couple of years ago I went to some lenght to find cow 'crust' for a number of reasons. Never did get to it, as I couldn't find anyone who wanted to sell a few hides - everyone required like a tannery run (or more) which wasn't going to happen with me :)

  22. Posted · Report reply

    One thing to keep in mind, there's always someone who wants to sell you a pile of stuff that looks pretty but you don't need. SO:

    If you're cutting straight lines, a utility knife is as good as anything ($2 at walmart or menards). Great for long straight cuts (like putting a straight edge on a side of leather). Need some curves? X-acto blades are everywhere and work very well.

    Personally never saw much need for a fid (though it's fun to say "fid"). If you're pulling, that's a flat screwdriver. If you're lacing, a modeling spoon will do the same thing.

    Rest of your list looks pretty good. If you're using dyes / paints, you'll want brushes and/or an airbrush. Oh, and some type of edge slicker ...

  24. Posted · Report reply

    WOw, since 2010? Here's a thought .. because you were not prosecuted or sued for an action does not mean that your action was legal or priveleged. ONE problem that almost auto arises when you sell or attempt to sell protected material.

    If you do it and see no repurcussion, you may incorrectly assume that you "got away with it". May be closer to the truth that the "injured party" has allowed you to earn income from their property. In this way, when it does go to law, they have an arguable AMOUNT of DAMAGES for which they can show injury. May be that you're working for someone else and simply don't know it yet.

    For the more country minded -- if you jump the fence and fish my pond, I might just let you fish. If later I get hankerin' for fish, I could just call the game warden. Any fish you caught on my property are mine. Even if I have to wait while those are used as evidence, I still have the fish in the pond and will eventually be recompensed for the fish you obtained illegally.

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