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JLSleather

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Posts posted by JLSleather

  2. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    Angie -

    If your die is cutting deeper on one end, then you have an alignment issue. Either your die is taller at one end, or the bed isn't square with the ram, or the top plate is welded out of square. You can check this by dropping the die close to the work, then measure the distance between the top plate and the bed (or in this case, your "board"). If it's not the same distance in all corners, you can [fairly] easily fix this.

    STEP !) Measure the die itself. If it's not the same height all around, have a machine shop grind the BACK (non-cutting) side of the die so it's parallel.

    STEP 2) Once the die is parallel, place a block in each corner of the bed, same height. Set the top plate ON the blocks. Slowly lower the ram of the press. If it doesn't contact all 4 blocks together, something is crooked. Most reliable way to fix this is to cut the weld, position the ram down on the die (with it still on the blocks) and re-weld. NOTE: You could have a machine shop make sure that the attaching piece is square with the face of the die, but if th eproblem is in the press bed OR the ram itself, this will not solve the issue.

    This sounds like a bit of doing, but it can probably be done in the time it took me to type all of this :)

    Oh, yeah ... I see you were talking about "hand crank" ing the press. I should maybe wait for the pics, but does your press include a big screw on the ram?

  3. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    ...The largest is 24" long. I have been using a converted shop press but I am sick of the die either going too far through the leather into my cutting board or not far enough and having to cut again....I spend way too much time on the actual cutting. I need a real press. Just don't know if I need the huge shop swing arm machine. I will need to pay an electrician for wiring on one of those - it may be too much for my small shop anyway. Just don't want to buy a tippmann and find out I really needed the bigger machine.

    If you're cutting 24" pieces, I don't think those models are what you're looking for. If it's just a matter of the cutting issues you're talkiing about, how about a dial guage or pressure limit switch? If you have a cutting board under the leather (or over, depending on which way you're cutting), then a dial would tell you how much the pressure needs to be to cut, and how much the pressure is when it's "through". Should be able to set your ram to "cut out" when you're through the leatherr ...

    OR (where is my brain today???) you could bolt a steel block on the press bed (preferably, one in each corner to keep the ram balanced) so that it goes just into the mat, but won't go any further. Gives you a reliable "stop" point ...

  5. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    Does the size of the platten work for the parts you're cutting? Assume that leather has a shear strength of about 3 tons (there is a lot of difference in what leather you use). Simplified, the pressure you need is 1.5 times the length of the cut times the thickness of the leather.

    For example, you're cuting a strap 1" wide, 12" long, with a .5 radius on each end, in 8 ounce veg leather.

    Length of the cut is roughly 26", and the thickness is .125". So the pressure needed is (26) x (1.5) x (.125) = 4.8 tons. As a rule, a clicker die is tapered and will allow for a bit of a shearing effect (like scissors, not all the pressure all at once). IF I remember right, you'll want to stay at 80% (or less) of the capacity of the machine. For that Tippman, 80% is about 5.6 tons. Thinner leather will take less force, and a dull die will take more force.

    It's sad that the Tippmann site doesn't offer any help in the technical area on this equipment. I personally don't like this setup due to the height limitation of the press. That's long-winded so I won't bore you with all of that. Basically, if you're cutting 30" OR LESS in leather that is 8 OUNCE OR LESS and your part is not more than 12" long, you're probably fine.

    OH, YEAH ... that 30" is roughly a 9.5" circle.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx

    This is right from the Tandy online site. Temper this with the fact that not everyone's "8 oz" is exactly the same. Always a good idea to stand there looking at the leather you're buying (period).

    Rule is, an "ounce" is 1/64" thickness. So, 8/9 oz SHOULD be in the 1/8" range. The piece I'm currently cutting belts from actually measures .144, which is about right (8-9 "ounce" is .125-.140).

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Tha's just funny, George :)

    Since I'm admittedly not a saddle maker (not that I would mind, I just haven't had much call for that around here) I suppose I've always lumped all of that into "rawhide". And at this point, I'm guessing the second half of my sentence makes the first half unnecessary :)

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Oh, and in case you're about to have these other questions (or someone else is) about S-T Leather ...

    I buy all of my Fiebing's spirit dyes through them. Years of painless ... no problems.

    Their kidskin lining (Stock 3777) is beautiful stuff. Lots of available colors (though I always get the brown and/or black), about 1 1/2-2 oz, smooth but strong -- great lining for wallets, clutches, ;bags, other small stuff. Skins are about 5 sq ft each. I have yet to find anyone selling anything this nice for anywhere NEAR this price.

    I've used their contact cement (permanent) for a long time. It's a bit cheaper than some (and WAY cheaper than Tandy's whatevertheycallit) and you CAN'T pull it apart once it's stuck down.

    And last but not least, no - I don't work for them, I don't know anyone who does, and I don't get a commission for saying all this :)

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I don't think you want to do that ... from their web site ....

    Any hard surface, non-porous and that can be submersed in water can be decorated. Anything you can get paint to stick to the object most likely you can decorate it with this process. Examples of such materials are: plastic, glass, hardwoods, fiberglass, ceramics, and metal

    This is basically paint floated on water (not water soluable, meaning it doesn't mix in). So, when you "dip" something, the water runs and the paint stays. Pretty cheap method, and one I don't think was ever intended for leather.

    Better to "paint" the camo yourself with dye, or buy the camo leather drum dyed.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I don't honestly know. I think if I was going to "guess" something to try, I'd oil it and let it set a day or two. Depending on what I get, I might oil again. Regardless, if you want to bring it back from the edge, as they say, I'd try to restore the suppleness first - then maybe tool it IF that works (and it just might).

  20. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    Anybody can send me the "stock" pattern for this one? I ordered the kit a whle back, never put it together. Then this gal writes, and wants one of "these" - and attaches the catalog photo. So I get it out, to find the carving design isn't in there. Happens, right? So I simply ordered another one. No pattern. Well, coulda been a mistake? One more try, so now I have THREE of these laying around, and still no "original" pattern. Yes, I could put something else on there (and I personally would prefer that), but thought I'd take one shot at it around here.

    Oh ... and the problem at this point is that these little bags have been discontinued. I WENT to the Tandy store, figuring I'd pick one that HAS the pattern -- and they're gone )&%*)^%&$*

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I use neatsfoot oil on everything. If you're getting "splotchy" and it doesn't even out in a few hours, you probably have something ON the leather preventing even penetration. WATER goes on evenly on everything. Take a piece of the same hide (scrap) and a damp spunge. Run the sponge over the entire surface. If you have "spots", you have something ON the leather.

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